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 on: Today at 01:15:21 PM 
Started by 57timmo - Last post by 57timmo
I have a brand new heater core, brand new cable/vacuum valve and brand new water pump and the FE motor runs warm but not overheating even in traffic in the summer. I cannot get any heat out of the heater and don't know if it's because of the vacuum valve and the fact that I have a comp cams 280 in the motor or what the problem is but I would like to have heat, I live in the Northwest. Thanks for any and all help, Timmo

 on: Today at 08:55:12 AM 
Started by Jimburnaugh - Last post by lalessi1
Carburetor? I use fairly stock linkage on a Holley on my FE

 on: Today at 07:51:20 AM 
Started by ROKuberski - Last post by hiball3985
All 57 V-8 Single 4bl &2bl Air cleaner housings are the same,  (B7A-9600-C)
58 292 Only are the same.
The housings are painted Argent Silver(same as the frt splash pan and P/S cover top).
The red ones started about 1960 as i remember.
The 57 Filter element is about 9  7/16" x 3.5" high (B7A-9601-C).
Originally they were yellow paper with orange rubber.

You are correct, I finally chased down two guys with 312 4V carbs and it's the same size as he one on my 292. I don't remember where I was mislead thinking they were different.

 on: Today at 01:08:27 AM 
Started by Zapato - Last post by SkylinerRon
sbc headers are very close on the engine side.
You can buy Y-Block flanges and cut the flanges off the sbc's and
massage them together. Most sbc's exit near the center which runs  them right into the
crossmember on most Fords though. If you can find some fenderwell headers they should work
with the mods.

Jerry Christensen in MN. makes some nice Y-Block headers.
His co. is called  Yestertech.



 on: Yesterday at 10:39:22 PM 
Started by lalessi1 - Last post by hiball3985
If the camber only changes 1/4 with a 1/16 shim that doesn't sound like much. I seem to think it changed more then that when we were playing with it at the shop, I don't know if the Granada spindles would act differently to a small change as compared the OEM? I wouldn't think of taking off 1/4", I was just going to take maybe .050.

Adjusting for crown here in Calif is a waste of time  :003: Most roads just follow the basic contour of the ground which changes constantly. We actually have freeways that are crowned the wrong way and flood in the middle rather then draining off the shoulder. Before I retired I spent 25 years building roads. State, county and city motto is build it as cheap as possible because it will cost twice what we planed anyways :005:
So I try to have settings equal both sides. I like -2 camber but can only get -1 on one side and 0 on the other, caster at +2 and with the radials I find 1/8 toe in better the 1/16, the radial side wall flexes more then a bias. It's stable up to 90 mph, haven't had it faster then that..

 on: Yesterday at 07:31:48 PM 
Started by Jimburnaugh - Last post by Jimburnaugh
With the 351 w engine, has anyone had any issues with the stock,throttle linkage?  I don't have the motor back in car yet, but the linkage just doesn't seem like it has enough movement to get full throttle.  Anyone changed linkage and if so to what, just trying to get small issues resolved before,motor,goes,back in.

 on: Yesterday at 07:17:12 PM 
Started by lalessi1 - Last post by gasman826
The latest and greatest in alignment is to adjust camber first.  Fat tires should be as flat to the road as possible...leaning a little to the negative (radial tires seem grip a little better with slight negative (-1/8° at the most) and no more than 1/8° difference side to side.  One side could should have 1/8 - 1/4° toward the positive (for road crown...most roads have a crown to run the water off to the shoulder).  This is to the driver's taste.  Fat tires and stiff suspension will require less side to side difference.  The more modern thought is to run both side cambers the same and use a caster difference to 'hold the road'. 

Caster is adjusted second.  Positive caster helps hold the road at higher speeds.  Positive caster means the upper ball joint is rearward of the lower ball joint.  Positive caster makes for more steering effort because turning requires lifting the vehicle.  Power steering eliminates this issue.  Manual steering requires a balance between stability and steering effort.  With power steering, set as much positive caster as possible while keeping the same amount on both sides within 1/2°.  Using the 1/2° side to side difference to 'hold the road' and keep fat tires flat to the road.  After making adjustments, camber must be rechecked and tweaked if necessary.  And then, recheck caster. 

Finally, toe in.

Plus this and minus that is all about the vehicle and the technician's experience.  Wide tires, narrow tires, bias vs radial, heavy vs lighter vehicles, stiff vs soft suspension, and driver preference all make for differences.  Most of these comments refer to common street driving (tire wear and stability)...speciality (performance, racing) driving has a complete different set of adjustments.  Don't even get started on anti-dive!


 on: Yesterday at 06:26:37 PM 
Started by RICH MUISE - Last post by lalessi1
See my reply in General Tech...

 on: Yesterday at 06:24:21 PM 
Started by lalessi1 - Last post by lalessi1
Rich, sorry we hijacked your build thread but you know how it goes..

I do get the math thing (not for everyone) .... Milling the shaft does not seem like a good thing to me. According to the shop manual, a 1/16" shim  equals a 1/4 of a degree! To get 1 degree of camber you would have to mill off 1/4 of an inch.... can't be safe. 

I believe that in the early 60's, Ford went to an eccentric bolt arrangement on the lower control arm for the rear mounting point that allows for better camber adjustment that perhaps could be adapted. That along with the later upper control arm bushing design gives us opportunities to better adjust alignment.

A while back I posted about "measuring the turning radius", this gives a "simple" explanation of measuring "turnangle1" and turnangle2". Just a thought... :003:


 on: Yesterday at 05:56:44 PM 
Started by RICH MUISE - Last post by hiball3985
Rich, sorry we hijacked your build thread but you know how it goes..

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