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 1 
 on: Today at 06:44:10 PM 
Started by Custom_Shelby - Last post by gasman826
Easy now!  Length is the same but shaft diameters can be different...requiring different gears.  Oil pump shafts can be different...1/4" and 5/16".

 2 
 on: Today at 04:10:59 PM 
Started by JPotter57 - Last post by JPotter57
Yep...today went easier, only took 2 hours to get the passenger side in...

 3 
 on: Today at 04:09:45 PM 
Started by Custom_Shelby - Last post by Custom_Shelby
LOL!!!   Ahhhh.......that's pretty funny!  what are you talking about???  Maybe you should talk to a friend that knows something about small block Ford engines!    Haha!!.....  You're probably thinking of a 350 chevy and a 409 chevy.....lol...

 4 
 on: Today at 12:09:22 PM 
Started by RICH MUISE - Last post by RICH MUISE
Quote: "Need to reverse that....any orange peel you have will still be there.  Adding more material will not solve what you explained.  Needs to be smooth before more is added.  The sealer is to close up any weak spots in the primer, any metal that may have come through in VERY small areas or spots.  Your surface should be ready for top coat before the sealer goes on.  Does that make sense?"
Exactly.....but that was my problem in the past. I had the high build/surfacing primers all blocked out smooth ready for top coating and started with the acrylic sealer followed right away with the base coats. It was the sealer that I had trouble with the orangepeel, and of course I didn't sand it or would have lost the sealer properties. That's why I was thinking of sealing next, followed right away with a coat mixed to surfacing ratio. I figured I could then do the final blocking on that top/surfacing layer to get it smooth for the base/clear, and not break the sealing properties of the undelying sealer. hopefully improvements in my guns, and probably more importantly, larger 1/2" air hoses/hi-flo fittings will let me get the results I'm "shooting" for.
We're headed for Albuquerque in a short time, so I may not post until tommorrow evening.
Thanks again for the help and suggestions, Bill.

 5 
 on: Today at 11:23:03 AM 
Started by JPotter57 - Last post by mustang6984
LOL!!! Door glass installation was invented as payback for our misspent youth! :038:

 6 
 on: Today at 11:01:08 AM 
Started by geraldchainsaw - Last post by clusterbuster
Thanks for the tips guys.

 7 
 on: Today at 10:47:51 AM 
Started by JPotter57 - Last post by JPotter57
OK, I would rather do two more weeks of body work than have to install windows.  After 5 hours yesterday, I finally got the door glass installed and working right.  Yes, it sucked mightily.  Hopefully, the passenger side will go a little easier.

 8 
 on: Today at 10:31:42 AM 
Started by RICH MUISE - Last post by Ford Blue blood
Need to reverse that....any orange peel you have will still be there.  Adding more material will not solve what you explained.  Needs to be smooth before more is added.  The sealer is to close up any weak spots in the primer, any metal that may have come through in VERY small areas or spots.  Your surface should be ready for top coat before the sealer goes on.  Does that make sense?

Following your build is it safe to assume this is your first time around the block with painting.  If it is you are doing a good job but I think working too hard to get the results you want though.

Play with gun pressure with the primer and top coats. Do this on an old part or a piece of sheet metal with a nice radius and a flat area to see the effects of the changes. Yes some material will be wasted but trying more/less with good notes on mixture will tell you a bunch.  I do have a primer gun and a top coat gun.  You can use the same gun for both but you should change out the tip and nozzle.  1.7 for the primer and 1.2 top coats, both single stage and base-clear.  You will have to change the line pressure at the gun for primer, top coats, mixture ratios, and to some degree air temperature.

 9 
 on: Today at 09:51:30 AM 
Started by geraldchainsaw - Last post by geraldchainsaw
before i did the simple fix,  i tried the clnc on the air cleaner,  with a stock air cleaner,  and i used clay,  theres about 1 1/8" clnc

 10 
 on: Today at 08:12:51 AM 
Started by geraldchainsaw - Last post by rmk57
1/4"-1/2" should be thick enough spacer to take away most of the heat.

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