carpeting

RICH MUISE · 2012-08-16 22:54

made a little more progress on the project. It took me about 4 days to get the 3/8 jutepad with aluminum sheeting and the carpeting down. This is not a moulded carpet, but was done with glued-down yardage and no sewn seams. I've still got some primping to do to finish it up, but I was able to get all of the cuts onto the tunnel area which will be covered with the console. It's not perfect by any means, but I'm happy with it.
I went this route because I don't like the carpet binding look at the seams, and I heard the moulded carpets don't fit all that well and there is also, from what I could find, a limited selection of colors.
The pic with the underlayments just has the Jute layer installed on the passenger side.

Zapato · 2012-08-17 00:32

not perfect ? hell that looks incredible

zap-

briney · 2012-08-17 07:37

You can come lay mine anytime!

Patrick Dallas TX

RICH MUISE · 2012-08-17 22:03

Thanks guys..but here's what you can't see in the photos....the carpet I picked up at Sunbelt Fabrics in your neighborhood, Patrick. It is a plush, fairly dense carpet with a very thin flexible backing that is very flexible to the point where it is limp. That makes it great for getting into areas like the rear foot wells. It is a glue-down and I was advised by a local upholsterer to make sure I got a heavy layer of glue on the backside as that is how this carpet is designed. The glue adds some substance , or firmness, to the carpet after it has set up. The "problem" comes in when laying this stuff down in that the backing is so flexible, it is very easy to get wrinkles in it which of course telescopes up to the carpet surface. Doing a small area at a time helped minimize the wrinkles, but it's almost imposible to have none...at least for us novices. The carpet is so thick that you can shave or scissor trim off the high spots, and pull out the nap that got caught in the little folds making a depressed area on the surface. It takes a while, but the wrinkles that jump out at you when first done can be made to disapear...and that's the "primping" I was talking about.

robhaerr · 2012-08-17 22:37

Really nice!

RICH MUISE · 2012-08-18 07:22

wanted to talk about the glue...I'm using weldwood vinyl roof contact adhesive. I finally gave up on spray cans...tried them all on previous projects and they all really suck to put it bluntly. I used the weldwood to recover the dash and the side panels I have installed so far. This stuff really holds. 115 degree temps in the garage have no effect on it. It's about 40 bucks a gallon, which is alot cheaper than 12. for the spraycans.
for a spray gun, I use a cheap Harbor Freight gun with I think a 2mm tip. It was the largest nozzle tip gun I could find with out getting into a more expensive primer type gun. If your looking to buy one, the one working well for me is the one that has a blue moulded plastic head. I fill the quart cannister about 3/4 then add about 1/2" of acetone to thin it. I know the can says spray as is from the can, but the acetone doesn't seem to have any effect on the holding power, and it was necessary to get a nice even spray pattern. If you're going to be back reusing the gun within a day or two, just leave the glue in the gun. If it's going to be more than a few days, leave the glue in the gun, but before you hang it up remove the spray gun from the cup and stick the feed tube in a container of acetone and some thru, putting the gun back tightly on the cup when you're done. I've left it for weeks this way without the glue setting up.
So far I haven't noticed any adverse effect with the acetone based adhesive on the moulded plastic spraygun.

RICH MUISE · 2012-08-26 03:10

Man, I can sure ramble on...one other thing: The 3/8 jute underlayment with the reinforced foil. Maybe because I had bought the stuff at a swap meet 3 years ago, but the foil was not sticking real well to the jute. This turned out to be a blessing. I tried gluing the stuff douwn with the idea of pulling the foil back and regluing it to the jute if I had to, but I found out the stuff doesn't want to conform to shapes real well with the foil on. On my first piece I pulled the foil off completly and was amazed at the difference..it became really easy to get it into crevases, etc. and conform to areas like the footwells. I then sprayed the jute and foil, and applied the foil. I think that's the only way you can get it to conform as it does in the first pic I posted.

RICH MUISE · 2012-11-13 08:47

btt for Tim

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