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4.6 being installed now

Started by RICH MUISE, 2012-12-03 22:34

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Ford Blue blood

The range sensor also tells the computer which gear you have selected.  Pulses per revolution is the key.  Do not know what they are for either the computer or the speedometer.  The other item may be "will the transmitter have an output that will drive two input requirements", it is possible that the signal might load down such that they both get intermittent info.  The instrument sender may be all you need.  Look in the end of it and see if it has a square hole.  If it does the out put speed sensor may just slide in and you are in like flint!
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

RICH MUISE

Bill, Phillip...thanks for the input. I probably got ahead of my self on this because of my not knowing what the Ron Francis harness addresses. The best thing to do at this point is for me to wait until I get there and see what, if anything, is left to take care of....and how it can be  patched into their wiring instead of the old oem wiring I'm looking at now.
Another subject....As I mentioned earlier, I'm planning on using all 4 posts on the Optima battery to help clean up connections. One post/positive feed to the starter, and the other for everything else (ignition, acc.,etc). If I install a battery cut off switch (and electronic bypass for the computer) memory, will a single switch on the "everything else" post be sufficient, or is there a better way to do it?
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

pepfalcon

rich, i think that ono cut off on the everything else terminal should do it . the starter will still have battery power to it, but no ignition to activate it.

RICH MUISE

Thanks Phillip.....I know your new to the forum, but you've probably figured out this is my first ever build, and I'm not too shy about asking questions pertaining to stuff I don't know enough about...and that makes for a lot of questions.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

Rich of the many cars I have built I have never installed a "master" cut out switch.  If all is done as it should be, everything will be good.  I always go back to the mind set of those engineers at the factory that are paid really big bucks to figure stuff out.   None of my late model cars have one...even the 05 Bird which has the battery in the trunk.

For me the extra stuff that serves no real good purpose is just another spot for something to go wrong.  The one exception is if the battery is located in an out of the way place where removing the negative post would be difficult then I would use a master cut off.  Just remember to have the "keep alive" for the computer wired to the hot side of the cut out switch.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

pepfalcon

rich, you are doing an excellent job on your build. this site is the place to come to for information on the 57"s. like blue blood, i have never used cut off switches on my cars.

RICH MUISE

Ha...you guys are reading my mind. I was going to do a post in electrical asking for thoughts on the cut-off switch in general.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

pepfalcon

put my fenders and hood on today to check for clearance between radiator cap and hood. zero clearance on mine, but hood closed. i gave it a tom drummond adjustment for one eighth to one quarter inch clearance.lol.

RICH MUISE

Was that the 2x4 and a hammer adjustment? Did you also move your radiator forward in the core support, or trim the lip off the bottom of the core support? I'm thinking mine may not clear the hood with the 1 1/4 or so I moved the radiator forward...I was hoping you were going to report you had more.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

pepfalcon

rich, i didn"t move my radiator forward. it is in the stock location. all i did was redrill holes to lower it. i think that was pat that did the 2x4 trick that i used also

RICH MUISE

I moved mine forward...sounds like I'm going to have to move it back...or find a bigger hammer. I also thought about having the radiator modified so the filler neck is coming out the engine side of the top tank rather than the top.
I did trim the weld lip off the core support, so the radiator is actually all the way down touching the head on the core support bolt. I wish they made these radiators a 1/2 inch shorter....but I'm also wondering what's happening with their 6 cylinder version that I would guess was made to move forward...shorter version?
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Raven Rider

Guys my Ranch Wagon has a 5.0 and 5 speed transmission out of a 1990 + - ford pickup.  I runs fine now that I replaced the Eldelbrock carb with a good ole Holley (a proper carb for a ford).  I don't like the motor and transmission combo it is just a bit weird - the shifting is odd for a car.  Since I already have a 5.0 and a modern trans would a swap to the Lincoln 4.6 32v motor be a easier swap?  I do not want the EFI stuff so I want to go with a Carb and a AOD.  I know there is going to be some massaging to get the 4.6 and the AOD in but should all the motor and trans mounts be the same?  If this is going to be a big under taking I think I will just swap out the transmission to a AOD. 

pepfalcon

raven rider, to get an idea of this swap, go to the beginning of this thread and see what rich had to do to transplant his 4.6 in. same for me. it would be a lot easier to swap in an aod.

RICH MUISE

Jerry...my thoughts on what you're thinking about.....First, I may be wrong, but I'm thinking by the time the first 4.6's came out, the aod was no longer being used, so I'm not sure what kind of compatability/mating issues your going to run into there. Second thing is I'm not sure what advantages, if any, a  4.6 with all the "goodies" removed is going to give you over the 5.0 you already have.
I think if I were in your shoes, I'd think about just swapping the 5 spd for the aod, leaving the 5.0 in there.
As far as motor mounts go, I don't think the 5.0 and 4.6's are the same, but the 4.6 is not a problem with the motor mounts...the 4.6 Mustang's are a bolt on, just requiring a slot being cut in the '57's original mounting pads. The issue with the tranny mount is not the mount itself, but making room for the automatic's oil pan...at least that was the case on th 4r70w Markviii tranny. Once again, I'm not sure about aod mounts or oil pan compared to the 4r70w, but I believe the later aode and 4r70w case are pretty much the same.
Rich
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

canadian_ranchero

the only 4.6 that had a aod was the early 92 crown vic and mercury also the 91-early 92 town cars.they used a block with a 5L bellhousing pattern.they changed the bellhousing pattern when they went to the aode/4r70w in mid 92.all the rest of the 4.6's used this new pattern and will not fit a 5L.as far as i know they do not make a carb intake for the b,dual intake port head that was used till 1999.the aod from the bellhousing to the mount pad is 7/8 shorter than the aode/4r70w.the mount it self is the same,so will fit the aod/aode/4r70w