Heater core removal...

[Limey57]

Here's a recent thread of mine on the valve:

http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5322.0

[Limey57]

Just looked on EBay and there's quite a few N.O.S ones available. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1957-1960-Ford-Thunderbird-Heater-Control-Valve-/311231055716?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4876d10764&vxp=mtr

[RICH MUISE]

Hey Bos.....just curious since you never said. I assume you do have the heating unit as pictured in the manual Lucky '57 so nicely posted? There were two...the one in the manual is the factory installed heater, but many many '57's had the dealer installed option, which is totally different.

[BBoswell]

Limey 57 — The part I'm not finding is the small round plastic piece that turns the vacuum on and off. I can find the larger valve that the water hose attaches to.

Rich — Good to know. What is the difference in the two? Any way to tell which is used without taking the car apart. Do they both take the vacuum control valve? Mine does have vacuum hooked up to it, but I would more than happy to bypass the vacuum altogether and have a one piece heater core and put the water shut off in the actual heater hose. I am just bypassing the whole heat unit at the moment which works but makes driving it in the cold and foggy Oregon weather very limited.

[RICH MUISE]

From what I understand, either of the heater units used several different control valves, so it would be good to have yours in hand when comparing pics of ebay units.
The difference between the two heaters is very easy to tell. From the engine compartment, look at the heater. If it only uses the lower firewall hole and has a plate over the top hole (above the weld seam on the cowl) then it is a dealer installed unit and none of the info in the manual  will be applicable I believe. Also, the dealer installed unit had a box (heater core case) that hung down below the dashboard glovebox area.
The factory unit utilized the cowl opening for fresh air.

[BBoswell]

Thanks Rich. I will check again in the morning. I looked at the heater from the cowl side this morning and to my memory both holes have tubes coming out and nothing is blocked off. Under the dash is the long phenum chamber. There is no separate box hanging down.

Quick question . . . if one of the holes is blocked off how do the two heater hoses attach to the heater core?

[Ford Blue blood]

Sounds like you have a factory heater.  The two holes Rich is refering to are visible when the heater is removed and are quite large.  The top one is covered by the blower motor and the lower by the heater core.  The manual is good to have and covers this repair very well.

[hiball3985]

Limey 57 — The part I'm not finding is the small round plastic piece that turns the vacuum on and off. I can find the larger valve that the water hose attaches to.

Rich — Good to know. What is the difference in the two? Any way to tell which is used without taking the car apart. Do they both take the vacuum control valve? Mine does have vacuum hooked up to it, but I would more than happy to bypass the vacuum altogether and have a one piece heater core and put the water shut off in the actual heater hose. I am just bypassing the whole heat unit at the moment which works but makes driving it in the cold and foggy Oregon weather very limited.

There is a part that contains no valve and you can put a water shut off, I think they are harder to find. I'm not sure if they were 57 specific or used on other years and models, I can post a picture if you need it for reference. There is also a valve that just uses the cable control and no vacuum, thats what I changed mine to..

[lalessi1]

There are two types of control valves as well. One has a vacuum line and the other a liquid fill capillary. The liquid filled capillary is coiled up and located against the face of the heater core. it really isn't that hard to remove the heater core. Disconnect the heater hoses under the hood. remove the glove box door, the glove box, the fresh air vents and the radio. You will then have easy access to the front of the plenum and the half dozen or so sheet metal screws (5/16 hex head if they are original) that hold the front of the plenum on. After that is off there are 4 more screws that hold the heater core in place. Then remove the cable (and vacuum line if there is one) from the control valve and the heater core should pull out. look for leaks where the valve bolts on and on the valve itself.

I switched form a capillary control valve to a vacuum type and found the control cable to be almost too short. I bought a capillary style and have yet to install it. I bought it from a gentleman that rebuilds them. I will try to find a record of my purchase FYI. I would have a radiator shop pressure test the assembly prior to reinstallation.

[hiball3985]

Thanks Lynn, the capillary one is what I use I just couldn't think of the name  .. Just requires the cable and no vacuum..

[BBoswell]

I believe this is a factory heater. Photos attached.

There is a manual for sale locally but when I called and ask if it had anything on the heater core the man looked thru it and said it didn't. I think he may be wrong because judging from the cover it looks like the same manual that is being reprinted and sold by Mac's. Photo attached.

As for the valve I would prefer one that contains no valve if that is available. Second choice would be the simple cable pull. If the cable is too short I could just wire it open and still use the under hood shut off valve.

Any information where to look for these different valves would be appreciated. When I looked on Mac's I only saw the vacuum style available.

A big thanks to everyone for all the info. This is going to make my life a lot easier once I have everything gathered and start to work on the change.

[lalessi1]

This is a rebuilt capillary style heater control valve. Temperature expands the liquid in the tube and as it expands it operates a small piston that controls the valve depending on where it is set. I think the part # is B7A-18502-B. The business card is from the guy that rebuilds these and I bought it through eBay. I have an old one that I assumed was leaking.

[lalessi1]

The second type of valve has TWO parts, the valve itself (Vacuum Water Valve) (see the eBay link above) and the vacuum thermostat valve. Engine vacuum connects to the thermostat which is controlled internally by a bimetallic strip, cable adjusted, and the regulated vacuum is sent on the valve. See reply no.3 above, figure 13. The ASSEMBLY part # is B7A-18502-B. I have one of these that is "new" in my car now and the cable BARELY reaches. I am planning on putting the capillary style back in, I think it is a superior design.

[hiball3985]

This is the third type, no valve, just an outlet and just a shut off valve on the intake manifold.. I had this one on originally but changed to the capillary when I installed the new core.

[BBoswell]

This is the one I would personally prefer (KISS mentality) and I'm still looking. No luck so far. Thanks for the photo.