Rear disc brake conversion

[clusterbuster]

Rich, I didn't find the video but I found an article with pictures and instructions where they are eliminating the axle retainer on the Ford 9" rear brake conversion. Do a search for the info below.

chevy classics 55-57 9" ford rear end disc brake conversion.

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks..if you find it let me know, I'd like to see it before I install...but that's a ways down the road. I did find another pic (Jegs) of the included parts that showed the spacer, and it is also horseshoe shaped, so I'm 99% sure at this time I can have the shop procced/finish up the mod to the differential, and nothing will have to be taken apart to add the disc brake kit. Now I just have to get it over to him.

[clusterbuster]

Rich, I called Jeggs who supplies the Right Stuff ZDCDS05 Conversion kit on EBay. They in turn called the Right Stuff company and found that if you are replacing from a drum brake application to their kit, the bearing retainer has to be cut off and replaced with the supplied retainer. They said you don't have to remove the bearing to cut it off or install the new retainer. Hope this helps.

[RICH MUISE]

Yeah...thanks. Confirms what I thought. LOL...where to send the money....I was holding the check for my insurance until I found out whether or not I was going to have to get the disc brake kit quickly. I mailed the check to Grundy this afternoon. Must be nice to have deep pockets.

[clusterbuster]

Updating the rear brake conversion. the jury had not come back with a unanimous decision. If I had it to do over again, I would never had purchased the kit with the parking brakes built into the calipers. Not only was the park brake not releasing at times, but you have to use it often to keep the rear brakes adjusted. I jerked the calipers off and put a set of GM non park brake calipers on, and got rid of all the cable crap. I will be installing an electric brake lock for the rear and moving my hydraulic brake light switch to operate on the front plumbing. Easier for me for what I have to contend with.

[RICH MUISE]

I read this a few days ago Cluster, and it's been on my mind since. Trying to figure out what I need to do, but I can't get into it until I get home. The computer here at the relative's is a major pain. Thanks a ton for alerting me/us to the problem.
I'd like to know what "electric e- brake" system you are looking at.
So, what's your best guess at this point....is the E-brake problem due to a poor quality caliper supplied with the kit (is it made in China as someone on the Hamb recently told me?), or would the problem exist even with a better quality caliper of the built-in e brake type?
I may have boxed myself into a corner.... I told the shop that is modifying my rear end to go with the old style big bearing as someone said the new style was hard to find seals for and more prone to leaking. Talking with the guys at Socal, their opinion was the opposite, and that far more disc brake kits will only fit the new style big brake.

[clusterbuster]

Rich it is hard to say about the caliper quality. It very well could be. The routing of my E brake cables could have contributed some, as the dual exhaust pipes were in the way for a straight shot to the equalizer. I routed up over the top of the frame and when I would jack it up at the frame the cables would lock the calipers. They would work well and then sometimes not release all the way. I would recommend not buying with the E brake in the caliper as the parking brake has to be used frequently to adjust the calipers. It states that in the instructions. Also it only works when you apply the service brake first and then pull out on the hand brake. As far as the electric brake lock, there are several on Ebay and I will let you know which one I bought and one of them to stay away from. What you do is plumb the electric solenoid into either your rear or front brake lines under the hood near the master cylinder. If you have the in line brake light switch, you have to put the solenoid ahead of the brake light switch so it doesn't keep the brake lights activated when locking the brakes. As far as big bearing vs small bearing they sell many kits for either small or big bearing axles. One thing I found when I pulled the original backing plates is that my oil leak was coming between the backing plate and the end of the housing where they mate together. Before I put the spacer on the end of the housing, I installed new gaskets, and have driven probably 75 miles and no leaks. Even though some oil may get past the seal, the gasket is keeping it in check so far. I just remember ed the name of the solenoid company I purchased the first brake lock  from. The name had Horsepower in it. The fittings incorporated in the solenoid were so small and crappy that I snapped one off trying to tighten. They were however nice enough to refund my money. It cost $49 + shippingof around $10. No switch with it though. The one I just ordered has the switch and all that is needed to install. Looks like a much better unit. Same price.

[clusterbuster]

Line lock, brake lock roll control electric kit, Hill Holder
( 260806150230 )

This is the one I have coming from a company on EBay. I emailed them and they said they buy them and resell them cheap and can't give any details other than what is in the instructions. You will find it. They have sold over 2000 of them.

[gasman826]

That kit looks exactly the Hurst Line Lock kit I just installed...except for the Hurst logo.  Even the installation accessories are the same.  A couple of cautions:

1) a line lock or roll control is designed for intermittent use.  The instructions recommend less than 20-30 seconds or it will get hot and cause damage/failure.
2) a electronic or manual line lock works great initially.  But not for a long term parking brake.  A hydraulic lock works great at first.  As the fluid, linings and other brake parts cool, the brakes will release and the vehicle rolls away.  I had a mechanical line lock valve in the cab of a four wheel drive pickup.  It locked all 4 wheels...worked great for winching and stuff.  One day, I parked on a major hill and walked away.  About 30 minutes later, the truck rolled away.  Fortunately, someone caught it before it rolled off a cliff!!

Make the effort and build a mechanical parking/emergency brake.

[clusterbuster]

I installed and used a manual  hydraulic brake lock on one of my wreckers for years. Locked the brakes on many recovery jobs with never a bit of trouble. It don't make any sense to build an electronic lock that holds only 20 or thirty seconds. I will look into that though.

[RICH MUISE]

Isn't a line lock's intended use for dragracing? I remember asking 57Agin what the LineLoc was that he installed, and that was his explanation, although more detailed. In that usage, 20-30 seconds is probably all you need.
I'm not sure what to do about the disc brake kit. I'm thinking the cable not having a straight shot, but strung over the frame rail may a lot to do with the non-release issue.

[clusterbuster]

Guess you are right Gasman. I didn't have a clue that that was the case with those things. I will return it if allowed and pipe in a manual lock which will work fine for what I need.

[clusterbuster]

That's right Rich they are used for drag racing, installing on front wheels. I just did not know that the things are designed to hold for such a short period of time.
My 2015 Ford Fusion has an electronic brake lock which holds forever, so to speak, so that is what I assumed this unit I ordered did as well. Will send it back and put a manual hydraulic lock on. Didn't want to go though the trouble of piping inside the car, but I will.