So here's a photo of my latest project. Got a ton of parts and starting to go thru it from ground up. Took doors/fenders off a donor car, stripped everything pretty much to metal. Cutting patch panels off donor for some trouble spots. Removed damaged floor and now replacing it with a good floor from a 57 4 door. Looks like it might work with a few modifications?? Anyone know how close it is?
Also, have 2 rear liftgates and some hardware but no clue how they're supposed to work/stay open??? Anyone have any pics? Thanks in advance, Scott
I used to own 2 57 Sedan Deliveries years ago. On the tailgate, the top and bottom panels are bolted together, so it swings up in one large panel. Both my SDs had a track on the right side inner panel, and there was a curved arm attatched to the liftgate, with a small wheel on the other end that rolled inside the track. The track had a dip in the end that the wheel would drop down into, which would hold the liftgate up, to lower the gate, you pushed the liftgate up a bit, and then lifted up the wheel end of the arm, and lowered the liftgate once the wheel fit into the horiziontal section of track. I have seen a couple of 58 Sedan Deliveries, and supposedly some 57s as well, had a 2 section overcenter arm setup on the drivers side to hold the liftgate up. Can you show any shots of the open tailgate and inside the rear panels? Does your SD still have the steel storage compartment behind the front seat? It should have a hinged plywood door on each side.
This was one of my SEdan Deliveries, taken in 1979 or 1980
Thank you for the info, that helps, Scott
Scotty...just stumbled across your thread. I have a couple of Couriers, one on the floor now being worked on.
But I saw your question about the liftgate arms, and happened to have pics of Dan Langdon's Courier. He is a member here and full of info. I went to his home about 2 years ago and shot pics of his car. These are two of the ones I shot of his arm.
The first one shows the spring which holds the arm in position when the gate is up. The 2nd shows the are fully extended when the gate is up.
Quote from: scottymac on 2018-06-02 21:30
Also, have 2 rear liftgates and some hardware but no clue how they're supposed to work/stay open??? Anyone have any pics? Thanks in advance, Scott
So Here's some updates on my project. I'm winging it so if I'm heading towards a cliff please speak up!!!
I repaired the roof and shot Lizard skin sound control and ceramic insulation. Went on good, we'll see how it works
351 Windsor done
Patch panels welded in and tail light molded in (rough). These are 57 headlight rings welded in with fins made out of pieces
Rack and Pinion mocked up. I give really high marks to JOHN STARKS on the Rack and pinion. Great product, easy to install and this guy could build packing crates for a living. You can contact him @ jms5477@yahoo.com
Last update for today, rear lift gate. After lots of research, thanks to the help from friends on this site, I decided to build my own lift system. Built a mount on the drivers side, then converted the factory mount on the passenger side to look like drivers. Had to do some math and couple tries at which shocks to use but works great. Obviously not a stock car so I don't mind not using the original ugly and bulky system Ford used, plus I could never find one if I tried!! This one works great, one finger.
1 more! That panel needs some advertising! I like motorcycles so.... Not going to use this one but it's fun
Lots of thinking outside the box on this one............my kind of build! Could you get me a pic of the R&P taken from the low passenger side at the joints/support area. I've got John's setup as well, but I altered the heim's support bracket, and probably shouldn't have. I'd like to see the angles your u joints are at. One of the things I want to correct/adjust while my engine is out.
Thanks, and keep us posted on the progress.
Looks very good! You should pat yourself on the back!
So...on the tailgate...what poundage did you finally wind up settling on for your rods?
Very nice work, I like it. I also like the picture buy the tool box of the HD courier.
The Liftgate shocks are 85#'s each. I'd say that is the minimum if set up like I did. If I did it over I'd like 90-95# each but 85 works good.
The pick on the tool box is a quick mock up of what I think actual car will sort of look like- thus the House of Kolors candy tangerine engine color
Here's a pick of the worst job so far- Courier had no floor so I had a 4 door sedan so I took that good floor out and put it in the sedan (sort of fit!), with a few patches. Will finish that on the rotisserie when I get it on there. Gave a lot of blood on that job. Also needed a new tunnel to acomodate the WC T-5 tranny.
Rich please explain again which angle pic you would like, thanks, Scott
whoops, wrong pic, here's the floor.
That last one was the starting of smoothing the firewall
The pic I need, if the engine is out, would be taken from the passenger side behind the tire, with the camera close to or sitting on the frame. It would be aimed at John's bracket for the Heim swivel support mounted on top of the driver's side frame. It would show the angles of the steering column and double D (?) shafting,and the double joint connected to the rack. If you don't already have the pic, and your engine is currently installed, you won't be able to take the pic. Thanks for asking for the clarification.
Pretty much the same as what you posted, except from the passenger side and maybe from a lower vantage point.
Okay...95 pounds does seem like a good bet for those heavy gates. Thanks!You are much further along than I am. I have been splitting time between 2 states for the last year...not much getting done. :-\
On another note...I see you have completely sealed up the firewall where the heater hoses came out. Plans? I have been thinking of a Vintage Air set up for mine...is that where you're going there?
I like what I have seen so far...looking good!!! :003:
Yes vintage air for sure. I have a lot more work on firewall but when done they make a little 4 port manifold that passes thru the firewall. Looks clean when done
Cool...thanx!
This is just loosly mocked up. Do these help Rich?
Hiball, here's the mock up pic u referred to. It's just a ball park representation but Harley Shop truck is the theme. That Custom 300 trim is proving to be tough,
the hockey stick stainless won't make the cut and neither will the Chevy hubcaps!
Just what I was looking for, Scotty, Thanks for the pics. When I get my engine out, and the rack put back in temporarily, I'll have something to compare to. don't know what I was thinking when I installed mine, but I shortened the heims support bracket trying to improve the angle, but I do think I made it worse, not better.
Quote from: scottymac on 2019-03-30 10:28
Hiball, here's the mock up pic u referred to. It's just a ball park representation but Harley Shop truck is the theme. That Custom 300 trim is proving to be tough,
the hockey stick stainless won't make the cut and neither will the Chevy hubcaps!
I agree, I'm not a fan of hockey sticks or Chevy caps, Thanks, other then that I like it. The Indian on yours reminds be of the movie Worlds Fasted Indian :003:
In post 18, you mention Vintage Air and using a four port bulkhead connector. I used one on one install (PIC) and just finished an install without. I thought the bulkhead piece was cool but rethought using the piece on the second go around. The bulkhead is expensive plus eight fittings! Plus eight potential leaks. On the second install I used the U-Bend tubes and eliminated the bulkhead and four fittings. At nearly $50 for one Aeroquip AC fitting...
Nice Gasman! Have you run that stacked injection system yet???? Looks like the one I purchased
Hey hiball...have you checked your messages through here lately? I sent you one a week or so back.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2019-03-30 20:20
In post 18, you mention Vintage Air and using a four port bulkhead connector. I used one on one install (PIC) and just finished an install without. I thought the bulkhead piece was cool but rethought using the piece on the second go around. The bulkhead is expensive plus eight fittings! Plus eight potential leaks. On the second install I used the U-Bend tubes and eliminated the bulkhead and four fittings. At nearly $50 for one Aeroquip AC fitting...
Gary, I like the way you did the AC lines.............. what is the source for the "U Bend Tubes"?
Thanks
John
Vintage Air and other vendors have tubes.
Inglese intake and throttle bodies and FAST electronics. Never run...still in upholstery jail.
Quote from: mustang6984 on 2019-03-31 00:19
Hey hiball...have you checked your messages through here lately? I sent you one a week or so back.
I haven't had any messages box is empty?
Ran mine with no fittings except at the source of the lines. Heater hoses under the battery box, AC in front.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2019-03-31 08:06
I haven't had any messages box is empty?
Check it now then...wonder what happened to the last one? Gremlins...little monsters!
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2019-03-31 08:18
Ran mine with no fittings except at the source of the lines. Heater hoses under the battery box, AC in front.
Nice clean install. I like!
Quote from: scottymac on 2019-03-28 20:49Last update for today, rear lift gate. After lots of research, thanks to the help from friends on this site, I decided to build my own lift system. Built a mount on the drivers side, then converted the factory mount on the passenger side to look like drivers. Had to do some math and couple tries at which shocks to use but works great. Obviously not a stock car so I don't mind not using the original ugly and bulky system Ford used, plus I could never find one if I tried!! This one works great, one finger.
Hey Scott
Do you have the part number/specs for the struts you used?
Cheers,John