AOD Trans conversion

[Ford Blue blood]

The GM one wire has a nasty habit of the isolation diode starting to leak.  Still works fine but will pull the battery down.  The Ford 2G and 3G are very good replacements.  The 2G and the small 3G will bolt in to replace any 1G externally regulated unit.  All three work with the GEN light.  The nasty little issue with the 2G harness catching fire can be corrected by using an after market plug assembly.  They are vastly improved over the stock assembly and eliminate that threat.

Have a 2G in the 36 because there is just not enough real estate for the larger 3G (that and I didn't want to spend the bucks for the small 3G).  Been working fine, keeps a solid 13.6 volts on the system with the large cooling fan running.   Both are easy to rebuild, cost for rebuilding is around $50 (depending on source) and both will take a V-belt pulley if desired.

[ROKuberski]

My car had factory air, so I have a 3 sheave pulley on the engine.  The alternator never slipped on the single belt, but the A/C compressor did.  So I added a double pulley to the alternator, since that is the unit that is adjustable for tightening the belt over the compressor.  With two belts there is no longer any slippage.  My PS pump is on the third slot on the pulley so all is good with what I have to power up.  I am not having any charging problems, so I'm not currently planning to make any changes. (The GM alternator has been in the car for 8 years and I have put on a little less than 10k in that time.) But, do you know if the mounting layout is the same for the GM and Ford units?

Rich

[gasman826]

Can't be that luck. 

[Ford Blue blood]

Rich no idea about putting a Ford unit in the place (bolt in) of the GM.  Can't imagine it would be that difficult though.  Always started with the Ford stuff.  Even put a 1G in my Bug Eye in place of "The Prince of Darkness" unit along with a complete re-wire!

[gasman826]

It's mostly about spacing the larger bolt for belt alignment.




old picture...just changed to 8 groove belt

[ROKuberski]

When I got the A/C unit, it noted that the bracket would fit the GM alternator, so, that's what I did.  I found a sketch that someone had on the internet for wiring the unit so the dash light would work.  I hooked it up and never gave it another thought. 

Before I attack something, I try to do my research on potential problems and get comments from others that may have done the same project.  I think I'm an adequate shade tree mechanic, but certainly no expert when it comes to making upgrades or swapping our components.  I need to piggyback on the knowledge of the guys that have more knowledge or experience so as to avoid doing stupid stuff.

Along that line, I did notice that someone had mentioned that the flex plate for the AOD has balance weighs on it and perhaps when used with a 292 Y-Block, this is not necessary.  I assume that these weights need to be removed, correct?  Or, is there a flex plate with no weights available?

Rich

[gasman826]

The conversion adapters that I looked at either came with a flex plate or recommended the flex plate to use.  OEM AOD flex plates have two different externally balances as well and ring gear tooth count and the Y-Block is internally balanced so a Windsor flex plate will not work.  Any Y-Block flex plate should be zero balanced.   Before buying a flex plate and/or torque convertor, make sure they are compatible with the same convertor to flex plate bolt pattern.  One other install caution (anytime an automatic is installed), make sure there is some convertor end play before tightening the convertor to flex plate bolts.

I have stupid tested these recommendations so you don't have to.

[ROKuberski]

Thanks for the comments.

Shortly I will be putting together a shopping list with specs for the components.  I don't view this swap as a big job, so I want to get all the parts together before I start.  Mods to the cross member I can do and drive drive shaft will have to go to a local drive train specialists that I've used before.

I was wondering, how much did you have to shorten the drive shaft?

Rich

[gasman826]

tossed the OEM drive shaft and used '05 Crown Vic police drive shaft.  Aluminum, 1350 joints, correct length with long rear yoke and Daytona pinion support and long tailshaft AOD and 4R70 long tail housing.


BUT, you are using Y-Block with AOD adapter and both could affect the driveshaft length!!

[RICH MUISE]

Driveshaft inf:..........You guys are talking 2 different wheelbases .Rich has a longer wheelbase Fairlane, Gary has a shorter wheelbase Custom. I've always assumed the Custom driveshafts were 2" shorter than a Fairlane. Am I correct that the driveshaft dimensions are going to be different? I've asked about this before, but never got an answer. They have to be, right?
I've wondered about using the aluminum driveshaft in a Fairlane..It may have to be lengthened??

I'm thinking if Rich was lucky enough to need to shorten his Fairlane driveshaft 2", he could do it by simply using a driveshaft from a Custom platform.
In my custom with a similar 4R70w tranny, I used the aluminum driveshaft out of the Mark VIII donor car with no mods. The driveshaft was 1" short of being ideal, but that was taken care of when I redid the differential and changed the pinion yoke to a 1" taller hd yoke ($80 ish). The new yoke was very close to matching the MKVIII universal joint. I think I just needed to change to larger dia. ujoint end caps. As I said, I don't think I could have done it that simply if mine were a Fairlane.

[RICH MUISE]

Rich..I'd wait on getting the driveshaft until the rest of the installation is done. Here in Amarillo, we can get new driveshafts made or modified in just a few days. I'm sure Denver has the same available. Just have your yokes ready. You may want to consider the hd pinion yoke even if you don't need the taller version.  It uses a beefier ujoint than the oem.

[lalessi1]

My driveshaft guy told me it was impractical to lengthen an aluminum drive shaft. Since he didn't stock aluminum tubing the cost would be prohibitive. Sounded good to me?

BTW my Custom had a 302/AOD when I bought it. I think it had the original driveshaft but it seemed to me to be a little too short. The crossmember was very crudely fabricated but it worked...

[RICH MUISE]

agreed.......if it needs lengthening, best way to go is a totally new shaft.

[ROKuberski]

Rich,

No worry, I won't modify the drive shaft until the transmission is mounted in the car and an accurate measurement can be made.  As to a stronger U-Joint, this car had 212 HP out of the factory, that's about 176 HP in Denver.  I don't think I need this upgrade.  We have Drivetrain Industries here and they are not too far away.  They can easily do this for me.

Now, the questions about modifying an aluminum drive shaft, is that is what is on this car?  I have had the driveshaft in my hands before, but I always thought it was steel.  I did have a new front yoke installed years ago and then had it rebalanced.  I watched the process and when they spot welded on weights, it seemed like they were working on steel.

I was looking for dimensions for the Fordomatic and have not found anything, it's on my lift now so I can just measure it.  I did find that an AOD is 20.5" but that seems pretty short.

Rich

[lalessi1]

A lot of newer cars use aluminum driveshafts, lower rotating mass. Older cars use steel driveshafts including '57 Fords and cars that would have hade an AOD originally. Aluminum is a performance upgrade, not at all required in your case.