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Engine cooling

Started by Limey57, 2017-07-03 09:33

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Limey57

OK, I'm breaking the cam in in my rebuilt 302 in the Ranchero, but the engine temperature gets very high after about 10 minutes running (needle at the end of the scale).  I know the engine will be a bit tight and some folks tell me this is normal during breaking in, but it makes me nervous!

I'm running a mechanical 13" fan, a reconditioned radiator and stock water pump.  The temperature sender was matched (in resistance) to a stock 57 Ford Y-block sender so should be matched to the gauge.  The engine is a 1979 block and the water pump is a NOS item for a late 60's engine.

Anyone got any advice?  It scares me to death when that needle starts to climb!
Gary

1957 Ranchero

rmk57

#1
What's the fan to radiator clearance? I would try and and keep it to an 1" or slightly less.

Are the pulleys original to the engine to?
Randy

1957 Ford Custom
1970 Boss 429

Limey57

Clearance between fan & radiator is about 1/2" to 3/4", the pulleys are billet aluminum vee-belt type.
Gary

1957 Ranchero

lalessi1

I would measure the coolant temperature. My car's gauge will be at the very top of the range at around 190 degrees F. I have a Stewart Warner mechanical temperature gauge for actual measurement.
Lynn

rmk57

A 13" fan seems small. Weren't the 302-351 fans around 17"?

Yes, I would verify the actual temperature with a mechanical gauge. 
Randy

1957 Ford Custom
1970 Boss 429

hiball3985

Sometimes those Windsor type engines have difficulty getting all the air out of the system. Have you run it without the radiator cap off and checked for flow? Sometimes getting the air out helps with the cap off also.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

Limey57

Unfortunately a fan any bigger than 13" hits the top radiator hose so the only other option would be an electric fan in front of the radiator.

I haven't tried it with the radiator cap off, I'll give that a go. Someone also suggested taking the thermostat out while running it in.
Gary

1957 Ranchero

hiball3985

Another thought is timing? I'm sure you set that.
I would never recommend removing the thermostat unless it was installed backwards or sshowing no sign of opening  :003:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

Wirenut

Another thing to check if the other recommendations do not cure your possible overheating is making sure you did not install a reverse flow water pump. Some 302 water pumps are a reverse flow. I had a friend install that one by mistake on his and it ran hot. A temperature gauge is a must to determine true temperature, even if you install one temporary. Good luck in your process of elimination.

Limey57

Quote from: Wirenut on 2017-07-03 21:27
Another thing to check if the other recommendations do not cure your possible overheating is making sure you did not install a reverse flow water pump. Some 302 water pumps are a reverse flow. I had a friend install that one by mistake on his and it ran hot. A temperature gauge is a must to determine true temperature, even if you install one temporary. Good luck in your process of elimination.

Thanks, how do I identify a reverse flow pump?  The engine is a 1979 block, the timing cover is an early one with the dip stick in the front, the water pump was a reconditioned one advertised as being for a mid to late 60's Mustang.  I have got a serpentine belt pump in the garage and they look quite different, were reverse flow pumps also available for the earlier blocks?
Gary

1957 Ranchero

djfordmanjack

Gary, the og 57 gauge is setup up for 170 degrees F in the middle. when the needle is to the full right of the black area that is only 200F. I would recommend adding a mechanical temp gauge and reading the actual waterneck and radiator temps with a hand held infrared thermometer.

Wirenut

The reverse flow looks the same as regular flow direction, I believe they came on the cars with serpentine only. They will bolt on just like the v belt pumps. Other than the impeller vein inspection you would need to remove your thermostat and while your system in circulating verify flow direction. You should confirm your overheating with a temperature gauge first though and then move toward the other recommendations. the infrared thermometer recommendation it a good way to check too as ford man jack said. This will let you know if the motor is actually overheating and will also confirm if your radiator is circulating properly before you start chasing rabbits.

Ray

get an infrared heat gun, point and shoot. tells all. look on both sides of the thermostat, top and bottom of the radiator. much more accurate than a gauge.
Willow Green 57 convert
Coral Sand over Gunmetal 57 "E" convert
"M" code 1969 Fairlane Ranchero
"Q" code 1969 Torino Cobra jet (427)
Inca Gold 57 Thunderbird

Limey57

Thanks for all the advice, I've ordered an infra red heat gun, it should be here in a couple of days, I'll check various areas and report back/
Gary

1957 Ranchero

Ecode70D

Gary
    While you are breaking in the cam, you might want find the biggest house fan that you can find ,  mount it on a chair or whatever in front of the car , plug it in and run it.    This will put some extra air onto the  radiator while you are racing the engine.   Jay