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morfing a 58 custom into a 57 custom 300

Started by 57 imposter, 2011-11-24 13:38

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57 imposter


RICH MUISE

Sounds like that's the way I need to go. Thanks Doug. Weird...so many guys have said the Aerostars won't work with dropped spindles, and we'll probably both end up with that combination.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Limey57

Only just caught up with this, my Ranchero has Aerostar springs & dropped spindles, can't comment on how it works as it isn't driving yet.
Gary

1957 Ranchero

57 imposter

They are probably right if you just put the springs in. The spindles alone didn't seem to do much and springs alone added was too much. The one inch spacer got me to exactly where I wanted to be. Wish I had some high math to quote, but it was just dumb luck. I am also using cleaned up stock 5 leaf rears with new pucks and Monroe air shocks with minimal air pressure [because my wife can put at least 30% more crap in a trunk than it was designed to hold] and no lowering blocks. I know you have the 6 leaf rears so you may end up having to do some fine tuning with lowering blocks. 

RICH MUISE

I was going to remeasure everything before I pulled it in the garage to tear into the sreering issue, but I forgot. I guess I could still use the spindle to fender measurement.
The new long block you put in a while ago....is it cast iron or aluminum?
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

57 imposter

Funny you should mention the " I was going to measure everything before I tore it apart, but I forgot club." since I happen to be the self appointed president, for life, of that club. I like the spindle to fender lip measurement because it removes the tire pressure issue. you can even block up the front hubs and measure with no tires. setting the spindle height will get you close but nothing beats getting it set roll it out on a nice flat surface get back fifty feet and look at it. that will tell you in a hurry if you like it or not. The engine is cast iron..

RICH MUISE

"The engine is cast iron.."   D@#$ ! Just when I was starting to think I had some idea of why dropped spindles with Aerostars works for some guys and not others.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

57 imposter

Don't forget, the spindles and springs alaone, without the spacers, don't work. The car will end up way too low. might be ok for a show only car but no good for a driver.

RICH MUISE

I'll plan on ordering the spacers as well. My guess is my car will sit higher than yours due to (probable)difference in engine weights or weight distribution.
Limey's car, btw does not have the drivetrain installed yet, so the jury's still out on his.
May be a while before I get to mine though. Between exhaust shop, A/C shop, and now steering problems, I'm broke!
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

57 imposter

The spacers I used were Mr. Gasket # 1285 They are a little oversized but they are split and I took about 1/4" out to decrease the dia. then glued them to the top of the spring so they wouldn't move around when i put them up in the spring pocket. So far the thing rides nice and I have hit a couple of curb cuts a little harder than planned and it hasn't bottomed out.

57 imposter

The very last thing that went in this car was the dash board. the reason being good accessibility to correct any issues while they were easy to get to. Good decision! I was also going to charge the A/C at the same time for the same reason however didn't quite get around to in. Bad decision! hooked the pump up today and can pull vacuum on the low side but it won't pull the high side down. something appears to be blocked. This system was apart for about three years but all components were capped as soon as they were disconnected. god forbid it is the expansion valve, which it probably is, because that is going to be a bear to get to. I'm going to get ahold of tech service at Vintage Air before I do anything to get their best guess. The hits just keep on comin!!!!

RICH MUISE

#266
Ouch! I'll keep my fingers crossed. I know the feeling...I'm getting tired of working on mine, just want to drive for a while. Not happening soon though, although I'm trying to figure out how to come up with some money to have my steering and coil springs done in a shop!
One thing I found out last week when I had my system charged...the A/C guys have a leakage detector! It is a hand held unit that works like the gas company's gas leak detector. After they pulled a good vacumn on the system and charged it, he went around to all the joints checking for leaks. Fortunatly there were none, but had there been one (or two, or three), I would have known where it needed fixing. I had no clue, and I was dreading trying to figure out which of the 15 or 20 fittings was the culprit.
I picked up a set of the Mr Gasket 1285 spacers today, btw. They were in stock at our local off-road parts house. 34 for the pair.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

gasman826

I was always frustrated with a leaking AC system.  Most newer systems are charged with leak detector dye in them from the factory.  Unfortunately, previous leaks leave dye behind for years.  Since vehicles last so much longer, O-rings get old and leak.  I hate the process of vacuuming a system and waiting to see in the negative pressure drops.  At best, only 30# of negative pressure can be applied to a system that will generate positive pressure exceeding 250#s!  If one has the leisure time to leave the system under vacuum over night with no pressure loss does NOT guarantee a leak proof system.  The next step would be to charge the system.  Now, you get the glasses and special light out and/or the sniffy thing out and look for leaks.  Two days later, customer brings the vehicle back and is not happy.  All that expensive refrigerant is lost! 

Several years ago, I modified a gauge set hose to accept shop air pressure.  I apply air to an empty system and check potential leak areas with tire leak detector foam.  If I find a leak, note it and move on.  Often on a older system (or a newly installed system), there may be more than one leak...especially old O-rings.  Over the last winter, one of my systems went from working to having FOUR O-rings needing replacement.  Using shop air is MUCH cheaper and more environmentally responsible than using refrigerant to test a AC system.  Pressure test over night at 175 psi.  Leaks found and evacuate the system and charge with confidence. 

57 imposter

A/C can be frustrating. We have access to every A/C piece of equipment known to man and can still have all issues you mention. my issue right now, is that I can pull vacuum on the low side but it registers nothing on the high side.
All that aside, your pressurizing idea is very interesting and I am going to talk to my partner about it at coffee,this morning. I suspect, he'll have a tool made by noon. I'm sure a guy would want to run that air thru a good drier prior to putting it the system.   Thanks for the tip!

57 imposter

My A/C vacuum system issue ended up being a faulty gauge set. hooked up new gauge set and it pulled vacuum on both sides only issue not is it won't hold vacuum. another friend of mine, has the ability to pressure test my system with nitrogen. that is a very clean way to pressurize. I'm fairly confident it is just one or more of the O Rings.  Had to get the trunk hinges and brackets painted today so that required masking the entire car as well as most of the garage. heck of a job for a fairly minor paint project. got it done so its off to the upholstery shop on Thursday for trunk carpet.