Brake push rod (Original) vs what MPB are telling. Need your input/help

Started by RAWms, 2006-12-20 19:33

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RAWms

Tom,
I will check to see if they fit the bearing housing.  You know, the #10 tin can with the Green Giant picture on it and a couple of hose clamps.  The bearing just better fit inside. :headbang: :075:

r
Time working or driving your ride is NOT subtracted from your life clock.


...as of Apr 2007

RAWms

Briney,
I picked up one of those stop light switches yesterday.  Since the pedal bracket is out of the car I drilled a hole very close to the pivot point.  There is part of the pedal at that point that is flat and presses the switch straight on.    This hole was my second as the first try the arm hit the switch at an angle and the switch wasn't going to last long.  (Another lightening hole though).

:025:
Time working or driving your ride is NOT subtracted from your life clock.


...as of Apr 2007

briney

Sounds like you got it dialed in just right. I think you will like this switch setup better than the pressure one.

Patrick
Dallas TX

If it won't fit, force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.

RAWms

A double update:

First, I recieved a very professional e-mail from MPB today discussing the pedal issue.  :023:  They have both pedals and and agree you must use the standard pedal with their power brake system.  Further, they have noted that sales will in the future ask customers if they are installing the MPB setup in a car that has standard or power brakes originally.

Second, mounting the stop light switch on top of the pedal bracket went south.  It stood too tall and hit the inside metal of the firewall/cowl. :brick:  So, on to my local Home Depot auto parts store for that "L" bracket method.

r

P.S. Ron, I gave up a few more grams of weight abandoning that second hole; Its me and Kirstie Alley now, Ranchero Weight Watchers. 
Time working or driving your ride is NOT subtracted from your life clock.


...as of Apr 2007

shopratwoody

Roger,
At least you have your pedal bracket out of the car. I clamped the L bracket on and welded it laying on the floor like a
reptile.  :gross:
You always do things the easy way! :binkybaby:
later, Ron  :glasses2:
I hate blocksanding!

RAWms

Oh oh, it ain't out of the car no mas.  You got a picture of that reptile position... no no no no never mind... :gross:

Tonight was doing brakes on the driver side and panel on the passenger side for the HVAC bulkhead connection.  I need the fender aprons on to mount the radiator support for the radiator to break in the %$$## cam!!!! :help1: :BangHead: :angry6: :angryfire: :iamsmiling: :pottytrain2: :snoopyz:

r :felix:  Where the hell did I lay that new chrome shoulder eccentric bolt????

Time working or driving your ride is NOT subtracted from your life clock.


...as of Apr 2007

Ford Blue blood

They say the first thing to go is the mind....can't remember the second! :102:
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

briney

Roger,

I haven't seen any updates on your brake issues.

When you mounted your bracket did it look like this one in the picture below?

I hope you got it all straightened out.  :Cheshire:

Patrick
Dallas / TX

If it won't fit, force it.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.

RAWms

Patrick,
I haven't had a chance to turn a wrench in a couple of days.  Running around the area chasing brake line fittings, found a new piece of driver stainless to be polished out, fabricating the heater panel for the HVAC bulkhead fittings, etc., and the little one was visiting.

The brake pedal arm only had 3" of clearance from the floor.  MPB is sending (their longest) a push rod normally used for Galaxies.  To change the rod the booster had to be removed.  If still not enough clearance I will lengthen the rod.  btw, can someone take a stock brake pedal to floor clearance measurement for me?  I expect it to be around 6".

Out of the proportioning valve for the rear brakes is a 9/16-18 thread.  The only solution I have for that so far is an adapter I got from NAPA down to a 1/4" the reduced to the 3/16" lines.  Too klunky for my liking but will do until I figure a brass 180 degree solution.  Strange the p-valve uses these threads and the fittings are either hard  to find or maybe don't exist.  I dunno.

No progress on the stop light switch.  But now that I dressed up the under dash wiring and I'm an expert pulling the pedal support bracket, I may take it out again to mount that "L" bracket.  Great picture, thx.

r

Time working or driving your ride is NOT subtracted from your life clock.


...as of Apr 2007

dgasman

The distance from the top of the pedal pad to a bare floor of a non power brake assembly is 7 1/2 inch 
I took this mesurment from the lower area of steering opening on the floor out to the top  of the brake pad
HAPPY MOTORING
dgasman

RAWms

Time working or driving your ride is NOT subtracted from your life clock.


...as of Apr 2007

Ford Blue blood

Roger,

Go back to NAPA, they have a book that has all the fittings and lines in it.  They carry (here in B-Ham any how) a line that has the 9/16 - 18 fitting  with a 3/16" line designed to go into the stock proportioning valve.  I have used them extensively putting together various brake system in various different cars.  They have those lines with fittings on both ends in various lenghts.  The book also has the same set up for 1/4" lines as well.  Wish I could help with a part number or even the manufacture/supplier but I did not save them and it has been 8 years since I worked street rods for a living.

Bill
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

RAWms

Bill,
I will do that Bill.  There is a friendlier NAPA further down the road I will visit.  Armed with your input ask to see the book.  If no joy there I will then go to NAPA's distribution center.

I looked at two Ford p-valves testing one and they have a different thread.  I have another car to put up in the air (Valve is under the floor) maybe has a GM p-valve.  I was going to see how I plumbed it (20 years ago).

Thx again, r

P.S. Regarding your PM, I'm going to talk to the vendor.
Time working or driving your ride is NOT subtracted from your life clock.


...as of Apr 2007

nick

this is how i did mine, its not real pretty but it works

shopratwoody

Roger,
I bought my P/valve from ABS. They gave me  :068: whatever fittings I needed.


The NAPA here in Orange is the worst I've ever been to. Too bad  :iamwithstupid:
Later, Ron :glasses2:
I hate blocksanding!