1. Has anybody recently found a vendor that rebuilds manual steering boxes?I would prefer a vendor who can supply a rebuilt box and then I can return my old one. I have been down the road of supplying my unit for rebuild and it gets lost or the vendor closes and I am stuck with out a box at all. I am good with paying a core fee up front
2: Has anybody tried the unisteer rack and pinion conversion on a car with a clutch, 4 speed (floor shifter) and shorty headers.
Forgot to state FE block for the above question
I am interested in any suggestions for power steering conversions that would work with a clutch.
I have a 63A with an fe with a QuickTime bellhousing and a tremec tko600. It also has a unisteer power rack. Has stock exhaust manifolds.
Ray
I've seen an electric power steering conversion offered by a place called EPAS performance. Pricey, over $1400. I have no idea if it's good, bad or otherwise or if it will work with the stock column.
Look at Borgeson. Bolt in kit, column needs modification but should be easy with the floor shifter. The Borgeson box is just a little bit smaller then the stock box. Their kits are under $1,000.00. I have installed these for other folks and they are 100% satisfied with the change.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2020-02-16 08:10
Look at Borgeson. ...
The Borgeson box they put in my blue Ranchero hits the stock 390 exhaust manifold.
I have Borgeson PS, FPA headers (built for an FE in a "57), but I converted to hydraulic clutch actuation (Toploader with floor shift). Happy to provide details...
Lynn, so the Borgenson PS box fits the FPA headers with no modifications needed? And are the FPAs the Mustang versions, or the specific 57-59 "shorty style, which is what I have, with modified factory mechanical clutch linkage. As for rebuilding the factory steering box, I had my 59s stock manual steering box rebuilt by "Steering Solutions" in Surrey BC Canada. They are local to me, and had previously rebuilt a PS box for my old 74 F350, and I was very happy with their work.
I have read In this forum that the Borgeson box will not clear the clutch linkage and would require going to hydraulic clutch operation. I believe the unisteer rack and pinion will fit with the stock clutch based on the pictures, but have not had anybody confirm this: has anybody installed a unisteer kit with a mechanical clutch? I know that would be no guarantee that it would fit in my car but would make me feel better.
Lalessi1. Was the hydraulic clutch conversion a kit or something you developed? If it was something you developed, If I went that way, could I get a list of parts.
Remember fellas I am new to this forum and forums in general and if I do something uncool or impolite let me know!
Thanks
The Borgeson box fits well with the FPA shorty headers I have. I did modify mine by moving the collectors farther back, the collector on the passenger side was too close to the frame...BUT my engine crossmember had the pads reinstalled after being cut off leaving me to believe my engine is a 1/2" off center.
I REALLY LIKE the Borgeson power steering. I considered electric power steering but the turns "lock to lock" would have stayed at 4.5.The Borgeson box is 2.9 AND the turning radius stays the same. I think the Unisteer rack increases the turning radius.
My understanding is that the mechanical clutch linkage will fit with the Borgeson box with minor mods. There is a chance that the linkage will work with the headers, there is more room than I thought. I never tried to use it because I had decided to use a Mcleod twin disc clutch with a hydraulic throwout bearing.
I tried using a Mcleod clutch master cylinder kit for a 65 Mustang and it was close to a bolt in. It seemed that I could not get everything lined up and the clutch felt like it was binding although it functioned fine the pedal feel was not right. I wound up trying a Wilwood master that was the same as the Mcleod but not mounted at an
angle.
https://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/hydraulics/hydraulic-conversion-kit/1964-1966-mustang-hydraulic-clutch-linkage-conversion-kit.html
https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd?itemno=260-13619
If I were doing this again I would use a single disc diaphragm type clutch, a mechanical throwout bearing and a hydraulic pull slave cylinder. I like how the master cylinder turned out. I mounted it to a 1/4" plate bolted to the brake master mounting bolts with a third bolt to the firewall. The plate was then drilled and tapped to accept the clutch master.
Mike if you decide to go this way I will help with any info I can provide
[quote author= You can do It , IF you know what to look for .
pull the pitman sector shaft . Recall these are just Rack and pinion units (in reverse ) .
the max pushing shaft clearance is 1/2 of 1 thou Clearance. and inspect the mesh teeth for bad pits or scars. you can dress these off but verry little ..
Look at roller tube housings they should not be Swollen or busted open . running the wheel hard lock to lock will do that . Dont do that.
with new seal at bottom slick that shaft with STP and lower into place .
If the input end play is Zero , your good , move to out put shaft position adjustment .
the center point Is the hardest point , at which the steering turns. Turn this shaft With your bare fingers, and see For 15 deg on each side of center will be somewhat hard for your fingers to
Spin the shaft But doable .
with this in mind (that is all you get ) no tighter . Top off with STP you just heated up on your wood stove.,
To get better feel , Tighten up snap pin Adjustment one or two more holes .
To etch those New seals on the Spool , Slave cyl, rear main , ect. soak them in Dot 3 brake fluid and install still wet .