I have 14' cragers uni-lugs.Anybody done a brake kit that clears 14' wheels? thanks
Bagboy, Check out (www.dropnstop.com) and (www.mpbrakes.com) I thought I saw a listing for 14" wheels at one of them. KID
Bagboy :006:
I have chrome wheels from Summit Racing 14X6 About $210 delivered. and am using 77 Granada spindles. Bought new rotors, reman calipers, reman master cyl, Mustang brake lite switch, new inner and outer wheel bearings for $192 from Advance Auto
TOM :unitedstates:
Hi, on your brakes. How much did you have total in converstion? Clear you 14' wheels? power or non-power. proportional valve to rear?Jerk's at GEARHEADS got my brake money when I had to junk their gearbox. Sure need disks tho. Like your car - tom
Quote from: bagboy on 2008-10-07 11:42
I have 14' cragers uni-lugs.Anybody done a brake kit that clears 14' wheels? thanks
My car has 14X6 Americans w/ zero offset. Just clears w.Torino brakes and spindles.
Quote from: bagboy on 2008-10-13 08:05
Hi, on your brakes. How much did you have total in converstion? Clear you 14' wheels? power or non-power. proportional valve to rear?Jerk's at GEARHEADS got my brake money when I had to junk their gearbox. Sure need disks tho. Like your car - tom
I payed $100 for the spindles complete,$35 shipping , $35 machine shop to taper bottom ball joint hole, $192 for new disc, bearings etc. reman calipers and master cyl. Bought a Granada proportional valve off e Pay for $45 inc shipping. Could have used Granada 14" wheels but couldn't find any up here. I have the part # from Advanced Auto if you want them.
TOM :unitedstates:
has anyone tried non-power disk kit? Hows it feel??
I have non-power. They work fine. Too much cam for vacuum deal. Gonna change to self adjusters next week. Lowering
blocks in the way to adjust brakes. Used to be the traction bars in the way, now it's the lowering blocks. NAPA has
the 68 Galaxie kits as Briney used. You need to use a real prop. valve (Ford). Not the aftermarket adj. type.
Ron :burnout:
mines not a kit, just Torino spindles.
What shopratwoody is talking about is the part that has the "brake failure" switch and the mutiple ports to route fluid to the fronts and rears. Both fronts come off one end and a single line off the other end for the rears. That block not only proportions the fluid for the rear brakes (drums) but also has a plunger in there that activates the brake failure switch should you loose a line or what ever. Most importantly that plunger plugs off the line that has the leak/hole in it so you do have brakes. Without that plunger the pedal will go to the floor no matter how many times you pump. That dual master cylinder is a single piston three seal device that depends on both outputs having preasure on them to seal up the center seal.
Sorry if this may sound elementary but you just have no idea how many hot rods are out there with "up-graded" brakes (they think because they have a dual master cylinder) but really don't because they do not have the factory proportioning valve in place. If you doubt what I say, just loosen a rear bleed valve and see how much brake you have.
Let me just add this-
The brake valve you need is called a COMBINATION VALVE, and consists of a front DISC metering valve, pressure differential (this also activates the brake warning lamp), the actual rear proportioning valve (factory pre-set) and a rear drum residual pressure valve. The GRANADA DISC/DRUM valve can be used on a 57/58 FORD.
14" wheels can usually accept an 11" rotor. 12" will require a 15" wheel. The GRANADA hub is larger in dia. than the 57 wheel hub opening. You can use later TORINO 14" steel wheels (D3OZ 1007-A) or have the GRANADA hub snout machined down to accept the earlier wheel.
Do you have a recomendation for four wheel discs? thanks, Mark
Do you mean rear in addition to front?
I prefer (there are several systems) the MARK VII rear discs. You can buy adaptors to adapt them to 9" rears.
For the rears the late Explorer rear brakes really work well. They have a simple emergency brake hook up (it is a mini drum with shoes) and all the parts are readily available over the counter. Brackets are sold by several different suppliers so you can scavage or buy the entire kit.
What I meant was, do I need a proportioning valve on a 4 wheel disc setup? Usually the master cylinder has a smaller piston fer the rear. Mark
Quote from: Frankenstein57 on 2009-03-18 19:26
What I meant was, do I need a proportioning valve on a 4 wheel disc setup? Usually the master cylinder has a smaller piston fer the rear. Mark
Yes, you should have a rear proportioning valve for the rear brakes. It comes as a combination valve without the front metering valve included. Or you can use an adjustable. You must have a DISC/DISC master cylinder.
I bought a power master cylinder kit from a shop on ebay awhile back, its probably disc/drum, anyway to tell? Doesn't the disc hold some residual pressure when your foot is off, and the drum none? thanks, Mark
Quote from: Frankenstein57 on 2009-03-19 21:26
I bought a power master cylinder kit from a shop on ebay awhile back, its probably disc/drum, anyway to tell?
Doesn't the disc hold some residual pressure when your foot is off, and the drum none?
thanks, Mark
Usually, a DISC/DISC MC will have both reservoirs equal in size, as opposed to a DISC/DRUM where the rear reservoir (disc) will be larger.
A DISC/DISC uses no residual valves. A 10# residual valve is usually included in the DRUM/DRUM or DISC/DRUM (drum(s) outlet only).