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Door switches don't operate dome light

Started by ptwood, 2011-02-14 22:11

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ptwood

Hi All - on my 57 Ford fairlane 500 63A body - I cannot find the solution to my door switches (which are new and confirmed to be good) they Will not turn the dome on/off when the doors are opened/closed.
The dome light does work using the dome switch.
I have traced wires and all looks to be correct.
The wiring at the driver door is correct with the green wire always being hot(12v) while the black wire is switched, however at the pass door both wires are always hot, black and green.
I cannot find where the added 12 volts is coming from.
Also I have changed out the main light switch as the old one was shot.. the door switches did not work before as well. I placed all wires as they were on the old light switch. I recall there are 3 green wires that operate the doors and dome light and all are on the same lug..
Any thoughts are appreciated. I have fixed all other electrical issues and this one has me stumped.
Thank you.
Peter

Ford Blue blood

You have two paths for power to the dome light.  The head light switch should have three green wires on the dome light switch.  A green wire runs to both the door switches and to the dome light switch.  The black wire on the drivers side should have two blacks on it, one of the blacks comes from the passenger side switch and the second black runs up to the dome light.  The black wire from the drivers door switch hooks up to the dome light after the dome light switch. 
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

ptwood

Hi Bill
Thanks for your feedback, my wiring is defintely not as you mention, I have black and green at both doors and if I recall correctly only 1 of the 3 greens at the headlite switch is connected to one of those double connectors and then wires route from there to roof and doors same with the black wires..
I will pull the headlite switch to recheck routing of the wires..and hopefully get this corrected so I can move on from here.
I appreciate your help.
I'll let you know.
Peter

RICH MUISE

Bill, Not to get sidetracked, but if I wanted to just run wires to my domelight area before I installed my headliner, if I read you correctly above, I need to run 3 greens and 2 blacks?? and what gage would they be? I may want to get my headliner installed before I order my new aftermarket wiring is why I ask.  Rich
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

Rich don't need three up to it.  The first green (actually green/yellow) will go to the switch that turns on the dome light, the other two (also green/yellow) will go to each door switch, the black (actually black/blue) from the passenger switch will run to the drivers door switch and then the black/blue from the drivers door will go up to the dome (and courtesy light).  Basically you need two wires to run up to the dome light, 16 ga. will work just fine.

The green/yellow is a +12V hot at all times, should be fed by a yellow.  The black/blue is a switched +12V (door switches and dome light switch).  The dome light is grounded at the roof support the dome light is mounted on.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

RICH MUISE

I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ptwood

Hi Bill, Rich
I have been in AZ this week on business and I found a auto grave yard very close to one of my customers. So I went hunting and found some parts not available eslewhere for my 57.. very nice. wheile I was searching I also looked at several 57 and 58's for the dome wiring.. I wanted to report back that in 3-4 cars that had wiring in tact - it was the same as in my car.. 2 wires at each door (green/blk) and these wires connected at double connectors near the headlight switch. I assume the wiring is original considering the condition of these cars. This is different than you describe Bill, where you state there are 2 blue/black at driver and a green and 2 at passenger. Perhaps both wire pathways work but I thought I would share what I found. I still have not determined the reason for my pass. door switch to have both wires always with 12V and neither being switched. Obviously something is wrong somewhere, I am going to pull headlight switch and re-check dome wire connections (green). I am sure thet this is the reason neither door switch works to operate the dome..If you have any additional thoughts please let me know
Thanks again
Peter

Ford Blue blood

Peter I was reading off a schematic, typically the connections are made where it is easiest for the production process.  Given you found how they actually ran the wires you are up one on the problem.

Lets start to trouble shoot.  First disconnect the wires at the door switches.  The green should be hot, the black cold.  This will eliminate a faulty switch.  Leave them disconnected.  If one of the blacks is hot trace it to a connector or to the source of the 12V.  Correct that problem.  Make sure it is connected to the black wire fromm the other door.  Next find the black wire from the dome light that ties in after the dome light switch.  Trace it back to the connector and ensure the black from the door switches is tied into it.

Connect one switch and see if the problem is corrected.  If that switch works as it should, disconnect it and do the other switch.  If it works properly go back and hook up the first switch and all should be well.

The harness is out of my car right now, I will dig it out and see if there is an obvious "easy mistake" someone could have done.  The black/blue stripes are hard to see and distinguish from the dark green and solid black and at the light switch is the black/white wire that feeds your cigar lighter and clock and the clock light.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

ptwood

Hi Bill
thanks again for your patience and guidance.
I will retrace as you suggest. You mention blue/black and a solid black are there 2 differnt wires.. I have been somewhat casual about the exact color as I thought those to doors and to roof are the same color, I can easily distinquish green from others though.
I do know the wires to the roof are- green to 1 side of switch and the other to a connectory where 1 side or connector has a single wire and goes to lamp housing, the other side of connector has 2 wires the wire that comes from switch and the other short wire goes to other side of switch.. I believe these are correct. I will recheck how the 2 black- or black/blue wires connect up with the same color wire that goes to roof from what you say they have to meet at the same connector.
I am not sure what you meant about the black/white wire.. if you are asking if this feeds the lighter and clock I will chk.. when I ot the car the clock fuse connector was only 1/2 there and dnagling fom clock, I have since found the other side and I know it connects to double connector where the lighter is tied in.
on a separte subject since we are talking elec. connections, I am reinstalling the original radio that came with car, it is being refurbed.. and I will have it back next week.. the last owner put in a repro- digital radio.. not to my liking.. not that I am original freak but I do like the vintage look...can you tell me where does the radio power wire connect up?
Than you
Peter

Ford Blue blood

Peter the radio is wired to the ACC position on the ignition switch.  It has a 5 amp in line fuse that should be on a short lead coming out of the radio.  Don't know if your car has the lead from the switch already in place or not.  It is not part of the main harness.

Yes the black/white does feed the clock...just giving an example of the possibility of a wire being stuck in the wrong place.

I have gotten out my "book" to help with the door switch situation.  The power for the dome light switch is fed off a 7 1/2 amp fuse on the head light switch.  This is a single wire that goes into the main harness.  The wire is green/yellow and runs into a three plug connector.  All three wires in that connector are green/yellow.  One of the wires runs up the windshield post, the other two go to the door switches.  The black/blue wires from the door switches run to a three wire connector.  One of the black/blue wires runs up the windshield post to the dome light.  Both connectors are located just under the windshield post, just above the hood release.  The green/yellow that runs up the windshield post goes to the dome light switch, the output of the switch is black/blue and goes to a connector in the light assembly.  There should be three wires in that connector, all black/blue.  One goes to the lamp, one goes to the dome lamp switch and the third runs down the windshield post.

Hope this helps, if not we'll try again with a new direction.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

ptwood

Thx bill
Will give another look
On radio I do not have the fuse connector so I will use one I have from radio shack
My rebuilt radio will be back in another week
Will let you know what I find on dome situation
Thx again
Much appreciated a's this dome thing is really driving me crazY on such a simple circuit

ptwood

Bill
one question..
you say there is a single green wire from the harness that goes into the 3 wire connector.. I have seen this connector when I replaced the headlight switch.. and it goes onto a  connector on the headlight switch.. doen't that just leave just 2 wires  to route to doors as you noted.. I have all the correct wires going up to the roof and from your description the roof wiring is correct  -  but I need to see how other  the roof wire is tied in
I'll report back once I pull the switch for a closer look...I'll be sure to draw a diagram.. I did thisonce but since you have given me the correct wire routing, I have to do it agaion to be sure but from what I recall mine is not as you have described
thanks
Peter

ptwood

Hi again
I pulled the headlight switch an I was incorrect, I have found the 1 green wire that comes from harness and connects on the left side of the switch at the back f switch near the fuse holder, but instead of 3 wires connected to the dome (D) connector there is just 1 wire here, this green then plugs into 1 end of a double connector and on the other side of the double connector there is a single male connector with 2 green wires coming off  this goes into 1 of female junctions on double connector and in the other female junction (on the same end) is the green wire that goes up column to roof.
then there is another double junction connector for black wires, there is 1 black on one end of this connector going up to roof (it is the same wire pair with green) and on the other end of double connector is another single male connector again with 2 black wires and these go to each door.
Electrically it seems like this wire schematic should work but as I mentioned the black wire at the pass. door is always hot as is the green wire at the door.
do you think it makes a difference that the 2 wires that go to door switches ARE NOT connected directly at the headlight switch where the 1 wire now connects?
Thanks for any thoughts
Peter

ptwood

I finally solve my door switch problem the Black wire in the roof was broken. I got very luck and fished a wire across under the headliner to the front window column and down the column, it will be covered by the column garnish so no issue other than not being original.. but that is not a big deal to me, having the door switches work is a super win!!
thanks for all who offered their help!

my 57 is ready now to have my Le baron upholstery and door panels installed after a long winter of many repairs and updates.. part replacements and corrections I'll soon be be ready for the shows.. can't wait!

RICH MUISE

#14
A twist on this topic...I picked up 2 dome light assemblies out of the salvage yard today. The prefered one I'd like to use is out of a Kia. It is a single lamp with a three position sliding switch (on, door operation, off). the connector has 3 wires(white, black, orange), and there is no apparent grounding mechanism. The unit was held to the roof via a magnet that was riveted to the plastic housing(so no grounding there). I'm thinking posibly one of the three wires is a ground. Is there any way to figure what wires I should run without having a schematic for the dome light?
Likewise my second unit is out of a 90's Crown Vic. it is a three lamp unit with two rocker switches to control the map lamps. It is grounded the traditional way with three screws running thru the brass sheet metal conductors and housing, and screwed to the roof. It's connector also has 3 wires(green, black,black/blue)
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe