Explorer rear disc brake swap

hiball3985 · 2013-09-15 13:09

Quote from: gasman826 on 2013-09-15 07:33
It will work if hooked up like OEM. Must have leverage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just what I was told that the foot type ratchets and has more leverage. . I don't know how they work I don't own a car with one..

CableguyJJS3 · 2013-09-15 14:05

Yeah it does have the little drum inside the rotor hat. And it does need a bit more leverage, pulling on the handle will get the brake to set, but you need 2 hands and one hell of a pull. But like I said, needs tweaking, but works for the most part. I'll figure something out, just a matter of finding parts, or finding the right parts to make it work I should say. But it is both wheels Rich, I know looking at it doesn't look like it is, but thats the goal anyways. It's weird to me as well, not quite sure how it does its thing but it's set up just like it was factory on the Explorer. Bottom line, needs more work, but the basics are in place.

RICH MUISE · 2013-09-15 20:50

wasn't sure because I only saw the one cable to the back coming off the bracket the front cable is connected to....maybe I missed something in the other photos, or you just don't have the second one hooked up yet.

Ford Blue blood · 2013-09-15 22:03

Ford piggy backed the two cables. If you look real close at one of the detail pics you can see the little clip on the front one that hooks up the back cable. Clear as mud?

?

gasman826 · 2013-09-16 15:14

The picture looks like the front cable is hooked directly to the rear cables without using the lever on the cross member. Without using the lever, it'll take two men and a boy to activate the parking brake.

RICH MUISE · 2013-09-16 15:54

Gary..you are correct. The way the swivel bar is attached eliminates the leverage advantage of the oem design.
Cableguy...that bracket for the rear cables mounts thru the long bracket very close to the other end. You can see that hole in your 3rd pic.
I'll post a pic of mine.....and hopefully mine is correct LOL The unused rod in the pic is the new one I got from Dennis carpenter that won't work.

CableguyJJS3 · 2013-09-16 16:22

Oh yeah I'm aware of how it was factory, it was still factory when I took it apart, still have those parts as well. Just the cables were to long to work in the factory location and setup, and not enough adjustment in the threaded rod. I need to reconfigure the factory stuff with some hardware to get it to work. Cause your right, the amount of force required to pull it now is absurd. I can get it to set, but man it takes alot. Just need to make a run through either the Home Depot or Fastenal and see what I can dig out of the parts bins. I have a few ideas in my head, but it's reeeaaalllyyyy hard to work within the constraint of don't do anything that can't be undone and put back to stock. Makes modifying the original parts to work as needed very very difficult. Still a work in progress, but it's dang close.

gasman826 · 2013-09-16 19:08

You can straddle that 'return to original' fence for only so long before you take it in crotch. Once one original part is modified, it's a ROD! And it ain't ever going back.

CableguyJJS3 · 2013-09-16 19:48

Trust me I hear ya. But it is what it is and thats how some want it, so thats the constraint I work under. I don't see it as a terrible thing perssay, just takes a bit more thinking somedays is all. Sometimes I enjoy the challenge mostly, sometimes not so much, but it'll get there, no worries on that. Sometimes I take a certain pride in being able to "outhink" a problem rather than just grab a welder and a cutoff wheel and carve and weld everything in sight as opposed to thinlk up a bolt on bolt off solution that can be undone at anytime I choose. The car will never go back to stock, but that's not the point...it could should anyone ever so choose. As stated before, its a challenge, sometimes good sometimes not so good.

gasman826 · 2013-09-17 12:32

...good thing is there are no rules....if there are, just ignore them.

Fryguy302 · 2013-09-20 07:18

Quote from: gasman826 on 2013-07-11 07:04
Parking brake? I have nothing OEM but still have the original parking brake handle and main, forward cable and linkage.

Wow, that looks like a really sweet hot rod. Would love to see more pics and hear more details if you're willing. Looks like a Tremec trans?

gasman826 · 2013-09-20 07:29

TKO600 with road race overdrive.

Computer challenged right now (upgrading hardware and OS).

Lots of pictures already posted. Click on my userID...takes you to my user profile. Click on POSTS and you'll get a list of my posts with pictures.

CableguyJJS3 · 2014-09-01 13:12

Adding part numbers for the entire system to this post as well.

All parts in stock and available from Summit. NiCopp brake line I got off eBay (cheaper and comes with all the flare nuts) and master cylinder from Rockauto.
front brakes
-3an 90* female to -3an straight female
18" - EAR-63011718ERL x2
caliper fitting - RUS-641311x2
frame fitting - RUS-641291 x 3 1 fitting to be used where the hard line ends before the rear end
rear brakes
hoses - 30" female thread straight fitting - EAR-63010130ERL x 3
caliper fittings - RUS-643961 x5 3 fittings to be used in the tee block
tee - EAR-972050ERL x1
prop valve - SUM-G3910 x1
25' 3/16 copper nickel line
3/8-24 flare nuts x 9
7/16 -24 flare nut x1
Granada master - Rockauto Cardone Select - 131602

drof75 · 2014-11-20 13:51

Here's the description I found about the disk setup.
The rotors have the popular 5-hole, 4.5" diameter passenger car bolt pattern. Caliper mounting brackets fit the popular 8.8" Truck / 9" Late Ford axle housings with 2" x 3.56" pattern and big 3.15" diameter bearing. This kit is designed for vehicle installations with a 2.5" brake gap (housing flange-to-axle shaft flange).

If the housing flange-to-axle shaft flange the prob, what if you installed longer wheel studs and added a .25" spacer that covers the entire axle shaft flange. I would think that would allow for proper clamping of the wheel/disk and give you the clearance you need.

gasman826 · 2015-08-20 19:40

Just to keep adding more about rear disc brake swap options...the '57 cars have small bearing rear ends, wagons and Rancheros have Old Big Bearing rear ends, '74ish 9" rears went to the New Big Bearing (Torino). The Explorer swap option fits the New Big Bearing/Torino flange bolt pattern. The Explorer disc brakes are NOT a bolt on for '57 small bearing rear ends. Modifications required. Several '57s have been upgraded with Crown Vic/Grand Marquis 4.6 module engines. Usually, the entire donor car was available for parts picking. The late '90s and early 2000 CV rear disc brakes will bolt on with some work.

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Explorer rear disc brake swap