I purchased a 57 Skyliner recently and am going through a thorough once over of the mechanics. Good car; drives great, it just has been sitting for several months. I noticed the rockers are really noisy. Far worse than my 55 bird or 57 Ranchero. I check for oil supply; it is good. I gapped at 19 per the spec; I even dropped that to 16 just to see. I then changed out the shafts and gapped at 16. No change no matter what I try. Anybody got an idea. If you wish to call and discuss please do.
thanks very much,
Jack 559-392-6444
Get a cheap automotive stethoscope, pull the valvecovers and listen to the parts move.
Maybe the rockershaft holes are out of round?
Goodluck,
Ron.
I did just that and all were about the same. While it was hot and running I set the lash at 16; pretty tight, but it did quiet up a ton. anybody think that is way to tight and could cause issue?
Quote from: ACESPACK on 2014-10-29 22:03
I did just that and all were about the same. While it was hot and running I set the lash at 16; pretty tight, but it did quiet up a ton. anybody think that is way to tight and could cause issue?
NOPE
I once read that Ford engineering determined the .019 setting was needed to allow sufficient time for the valve face to contact the seat for heat transfer. The Isky cam I run in mine called for .015 which I felt was too tight and I set mine at .017.
Thanks very much.
QuoteCarefully examine the tip of each rocker arm where it contacts the valve-stem for signs of wear. The surface face of the rocker tip should be flat and smooth, and there should be no signs of pitting or cupping, which are signs of excessive wear. If only slightly worn, the rocker arm tip may be refaced using a grinding stone, allowing the rocker arm to be reused. Also critical is the inside radius of the rocker arm where it rides on the shaft. The inside radius is examined visually and tactically. If there?s any wear here, the rocker arm should be replaced. Do not take shortcuts with critical valve-train components as they have a direct impact on how your engine runs and how long it lasts.
SOURCE - https://www.diyford.com/ford-y-block-engine-rebuilds-inspection-cleaning-guide/
Mine are not as quiet as I'd like either. All components are new. I'm blaming it on the mild Isky.
Quote from: thomasso on 2021-09-28 11:34
Mine are not as quiet as I'd like either. All components are new. I'm blaming it on the mild Isky.
Did you try ISKY's recommendation of reduced valve lash? Wondering if it helped at all.
Solid lifters require some valve lash, so some noise is to be expected.Many of the performance era engines specified as much as .028-.030" valve lash (Boss 302 Mustangs, 302 Z28 Camaros etc). Personally, I love the mechanical sound of solid lifters, in fact, I installed a solid lifter cam in my 59s 428 CJ, simply so I can enjoy the whirring sound of the valvetrain at .025" lash. Valve lash is music to my ears!
X2!!!!
X3, I have a factory 427 cam in my 390 set at .025. My Y with Isky is just a little noisy at idle but I love it.
The maintenance part of running solids is overrated also. Mine gets checked once a year in spring and that's it. Of all the times I've checked the lash they almost always stay where they should be. My 57's cam has a tight lash of .012 cold, so it doesnt make much clatter at all. My Mustang is quite noisy but that is more of the big open aluminum rocker cover I would think.
Gotta agree with Randy, even on my 427FE drag engine with a .650"+ solid flat tappet cam, I only checked the lash once or twice a race season, and rarely even had to make any adjustments of over .001 or .002". All 272-312 Y Blocks were solids, are were most MoPar Slant 6s, and I bet most were never adjusted over the engines lifetime, or ever, not anywhere near what was recommended by the manufacturer.
As a usual maintenance part I check mine every 10,000 miles and for the most part they are ok. I think back in the old days wear was more prevalent with the bad quality oils and required more adjusting, today not so much..
I think the type of adjusting nut also matters. The y-block rockers that had the jam nut seemed to hold adjustment better, and I use poly locks on my "newer" race engines and hardly ever have to make adjustment.
its funny how on factory specs (.019) just a few of my 292 rockers were still ticking away. Of course I am talking about old and somewhat worn parts on an og survivor engine. I replaced 2 very worn rockers and cleaned and polished the shafts.
Interestingly I just adjusted the gap by feel with the engine running, until the ticking was gone. I think it was both valves on cyl #1 and 4, the outmost if you will.
after shutting down the engine I rechecked the clearance and IIRC it was about .014 on those valves. I slightly increased the clearance by feel, it must be somewhere inbetween and now you can hear some but no excessive ticking when cold. it all goes away @ operating temp anyways. This is just make do with what you have... I gotta be cheap :003:
Did you check the contact face of the rocker where it meets the valve stem? Wear there can give erroneous readings wth a feeler gage.
YES. I did clean up the mating surface on my belt grinder. this worked nicely. It had been causing false readings before, exactly as you mentioned !