Simple question...hood removal

[Cecil]

Okay, when you're getting ready to pull a motor, how many folks does it takes to hold and move that sumbitch?   Any advice?

[Lgcustom]

Are you asking about hood removal or engine removal? Hood removal takes two. Engine removal CAN be done by one person, two makes it much easier to manipulate the hoist and guide the motor out.

[Cecil]

Oh, I should have been clearer.  Yes, I'm talking about the hood. Most of what I'll be doing is by myself.  I figure with a proper hoist and and engine stand I can handle engine rebuild, but that hood....well, stout goes nowhere describing it.   I guess what I'm asking is that anyone has used a combination of hoist and clamps to hold and move the hood once it's unbolted.

If not, then how many skinny people like me have died trying to unbolt and move that thing all by themselves?   Asking for a friend. 

[RICH MUISE]

I can't see any way clamps could be used without damaging the hood skin. I guess if you had to, wood blocks on inside and outside under the clamps, but you don't want to clamp over an area that has the support sheetmetal on the underside, so you'd need some really deep clamps to reach that single layer area. Still with all the moving around it's going to be doing, probably a 95 % chance of sheetmetal damage even with blocks. A hood is the worst panel possible to remove distortion, so I definetely wouldn't do it with clamps. Possibly something bolted on in place of the hood catch at the firewall end.
Since your asking for a friend, just help him with it, lol. Two reasonably strong guys can handle it easily. The hard part is holding it while you're unbolting it.
BEFORE you loosen/pull the hood (or doors), if the alignment on them are reasonably close, drill  1/8 holes thru the hood hinge's 90*brackets where they bolt onto the hood into the underside support bracing. On the hood you will need 2 holes each side. One hole should go thru the bracket into the side of the hood support, and the other hole should go thru the bottom of the bracket into the hood support bracing. When you reassemble the hood, use those holes with pins to get you back fairly close to where you were.
I actually drilled holes to match some harbor freight automatic center punches I have. The pointed/tapered ends make it easy to push thru the holes in both pieces........kinda self alighns. Also, the knurled handles make them easier to grip than just pins.

[djfordmanjack]

all that Rich stated is correct and good advice. 2 people ( each one with a wrench) is the best way to do this job.

I have to say though that I pulled the hood alone. the hood is not so heavy and can be carried easily by one man. the trick is to not remove it in open but nearly closed position. you need heavy blankets, corrugated cardboard or foam and best to tape the corners and edges of hood. you want 2 wooden boards long enough to reach over each center fender rib (across engine compartment). open hood, there are a total of 4 bolts to the side, holding it to the hinges. remove the front ones ( you can insert small pins to safely lock it in position) and after tipping the hood back nearly closed, carefully losen the rears. the springs in the hood hinges will want it to come up and forward, so this brings your last 2 bolts above fender level, by now you will have to find small wood chips or plywood that you can wedge between hinge and hood, so the paint does not get damaged. let the rear of the hood rest on the wooden board ( you can insert another board in the middle or to the front of hood as well). you can now slowly remove another bolt while pressing the front of the hood down a bit. careful, there is spring tension on the hinges. but it can be handled so the hinge will move forward. that slightly raises this side of the hood and twists the remaining hinge and bolt, but no problem. then move over to the other side and remove last bolt the same way, always being aware of spring tension on hood hinge. now let the hood rest on the tips of hinges in front and wooden board in back. move to the front center and grab hood and lift it from car.

I only recommend this seeing the old and worn paint on your car. would not do this with fresh or great condition og. paint. it worked for me removing hood from Del Rio during disassembling.

Cecil, now that the car is finally yours and you are moving forward to restoring, you might as well open your own build topic on the 'project builds' board. it neatly ties together all of your efforts for later viewing. you can start new topics on special issues or tech questions anytime in whatever category it might fit.

[gasman826]

Why remove the hood at all?  I just removed and install my engine over the side while leaving the hood in place.  No problem at all!

[Ford Blue blood]

I use a slightly modified Guenter approach.  Heavy moving blanket on the top of the fenders and the cowl.  Hood all the way up.  Loosen all four bolts, hood slides down the limit of the adjusting holes, remove the two on the bottom.  Lay the hood down on the blanket and the two upper bolts can be removed.  The hood will just lay there with no bolts and the tension is already off the hinges.  There is enough room between the hinge and the hood to allow it to lay back on the blanket without binding.  To replace the hood I just reverse the process.

[Cecil]

Excellent advice from all of you guys!  I have some pondering to do.