I have collected all the info from here to switch to a none power dual master cllinder
I have a 57 Fairlane with the pedal assist power brake
Will this swap ( mustang master ) work with my power brake set up?
Thanks for any and all help / sugestions
Leon
I don't really know. Never tried that combo :003:
Why are you going to a dual master, have you installed disk brakes?
Dual master will give me a safety factor if there is a problem in eather the front or back
Quote from: mort1928 on 2012-06-27 15:59
Dual master will give me a safety factor if there is a problem in eather the front or back
Only if you have that ugly metering block in the system.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2012-06-27 17:34
Only if you have that ugly metering block in the system.
Please enlighten.
That metering block has a slide valve in it that turns on the "brake" light on the dash but more importantly it slides over and seals off the open or failed portion of the system. This will allow preasure to build and give partial brakes, might take a couple of pumps but they will come up.
"Dual master will give me a safety factor if there is a problem in eather the front or back"
So will a rollcage and a 5 point harness. 57 Ford have a safety factor built in if you lose your brakes, it's called a hand brake, and can be found to the left of the steering wheel under the dash.
Yes it will work but only if you use a master cylinder with a 1 1/8th inch bore.
A bore any smaller will give you a spongy pedal feel with the sure swift power assist system.
Thanks ford blue blood, I have your info from a previous post where you explained the whole set up.
dgasman, can eather of you sugest a master that will fit and is a 1 1/8" bore
Thanks,
Leon
I used a manual disc brake master from a mid-70's Granada. If you still have drum brakes in front you should also get a residual check valve for the front brakes. It will give you a higher brake pedal by keeping a small amount of line pressure on front wheel cylinders. Not needed if you have discs. I used a Wilwood distribution/ proportioning valve, works great.
Get a Granada drum/drum master cylinder and the metering block for it and it should be a bolt in.
I am using a master from a 85 mustang svo . You will need to use a combination valve for a car with four wheel drums , this will have the residual pressure valves in it. I have been using this set up for years on my ranchero with the sure swift power assist .
I want to thank everyone for the info
Will do more research with this info
Leon
Another master cylinder question
What is the difference between shallow bore and deep bore use
Thanks
Leon
Question on the Granada master cylinder . I measured the 57 master and the Granada master and there is about 1/2 inch difference where the travel starts . Is it necessary to space the master cyclinder out so the travel is the same ? I have mine together and not getting fluid out of the master . Im not sure if I got a bad part or if the 1/2 difference is causing me to actually be bypassing the front side of the master cylinder . It a new Napa master and I have never had any issues with there hydraulics components via brake or clutch .
I've never done a master cylinder conversion, but I'm close to doing my first. Some of the more knowledgeable guys will chime in here I'm sure, but from what I've read there should be a very small "free play" with the brake pedal before it contacts the master cylinder...1/8 or less if I remember. If your saying the piston is actually pushed in 1/2 " already with the pedal in full rest position, then I would think it has to be eliminated or your gonna lose 1/2" of stroke and it ain't all that long to begin with. Most of the guys have modified the rod connected to the pedal, either lengthening or shortening, to get that 1/8 of play I was talking about.
The guys in the know have also talked about bench bleeding the master before it is installed.
The piston in the master cylinder MUST return to the stop as it would be with no push rod on it. The push rod should have as small amount of play (1/32 - 1/16 is best) as possible with the brake pedal all the way up and it's return spring in place.
While the piston is at the stop fluid is drained into the cylinder area from the reservoir, when you push the pedal down the port is closed off and pressure builds in the line operating the wheel cylinders. When the pedal is released the piston slides back into it's rest location and the fluid that was pushed into the wheel cylinders will bubble back into the reservoir.
Problem found prop valve was stuck and wouldn't let fluid come through . I didn't bench bleed the master since everything was new and didn't want to take a chance of getting fluid on anything. I took the master back off and bench bled it and put it back on and started checking for fluid at every connection . I wacked the pin on the prop valve and fluid started coming out the lines for the frt brakes all is well .