Bad roadtrip 10 days ago.

[RICH MUISE]

My final roadtrip of the show season didn't end so well. I lost my engine!!!
I went to Medicine Park, OK. The night before, my car started running pretty crappy when I was getting close to my destination (220 miles). I thought maybe I got some bad gas. It was ok, with a definite lack of power at highway speeds, but when idling it was really rough. I checked everything I could for loose wires, etc. After the show, I headed home hoping a new tank of gas would resolve the issue. About 1/2 way home, after dark, and in a no-cell-phone area, I heard a noise, and the car started running much worse. With my fingers crossed, I made it to Memphis, (Tx) where I pulled over in a gas station to check things again. 85 miles from home, but now on a main highway (US287) I was going to try and make it home, but the car wouldn't start and cranking it over was blowing huge clouds of smoke out the right exhaust. I called AAA, and 7 1/2 hours later they finally located a tow for me.
Started pulling things apart last Monday. Pulled the right valve cover to check the timing chains, the larger one was a little loose, but not bad. Then I saw two roller rocker gizmos lying loose on top of the head. Both on the same cylinder. My neighbor had a bore scope/camera, and through the spark plug hole, we got a nice picture of my piston connecting rod being seen through the big hole in the top of the piston!! Piston was beaten to crap, and cylinder walls scored.
I've already got a replacement engine in from Engine World in California. It's a later '97 engine,(factory OBDII computer system)so I've got my fingers crossed that what I was told in the past about being able to convert the OBDII back to OBDI was good info. So far, everything looks pretty much the same on the engine block, just all the bolt-on stuff being different.
My son had already planned to visit from Florida for a few weeks, and he'll be here Saturday, so I'm hoping by the end of next week to be up and running again.
BTW, I had told Hugh last week about it, but I had told him at that point in time, we suspected the engine slipped a timing chain. I don't think that's the case, or there would have been more damage on that side, and the engine wouldn't have kept running for 20 miles until I shut it off.

[RICH MUISE]

I'm sure glad I hadn't sold the car yet, It had been so reliable, I'm not sure I would have believed what a new owner was telling me, and at the very least, I would have felt horrible! And the show in Medicine Park was really enjoyable, btw.

[lalessi1]

That sucks! It would be interesting to do an "autopsy". Sounds catastrophic and it makes me wonder what could have happened...

[RICH MUISE]

Not sure if I'll take it apart to look. After taking the valve cover off, I found what looked to be a split retainer for the valve stem. My best guess is I lost the first valve, and the pieces eventually, after a few hundred miles, jambed up the second valve. No noises whatsoever that I could hear until the second one went. The downside to these 4.6 dohc engines is the astronomical costs of rebuilding, if you can even find a qualified shop.

[hiball3985]

That is sad news  I wish you better luck with the new one..

[djfordmanjack]

too bad , Rich ! That's annoying. Did you know the actual miles on that engine ?

I know this is a terrible idea, but is it possible to just replace/repair the cyl head and the destroyed piston? I mean it didn't eat a cam or such, so the debris and metal parts should only be in the pan/pump and filter. As long as the bore is still ok....just thinking...

[Ford Blue blood]

Holy Crap!  Rich that is about the worse car show story I've ever heard!  Add to that, that's the first dropped valve story I've heard on the 4.6.  Those things are bullet proof, apparently not valve proof.....

[RICH MUISE]

The scope my neighbor/friend has showed some scoring of the cylinder wall. Before he came over with that scope, I was checking eBay for a replacement cylinder head. Not sure I would have gone that route anyway. The Lincoln manual has a half dozen pages on just replacing the timing chains, and requires special tools to hold the cams and crankshaft in place while you're doing that. The replacement engine costs not too much more than a timing chain and tensioner kit, and doing all that is above my pay grade anyway. Total cost on the engine including shipping to Texas from Cal. was 1400. That included 150. for home delivery with a tailgate lift. The trucker put it right in my garage for me.
The engine had "no more than 80k" on it when I got it, I added about 35-40 k miles to it. Engine World doesn't give you exact mileage, just the "no more than 80k" for any domestic engine (50k max for imports). The one I just got is much cleaner than the one I'm replacing was when I got it. I pulled the valve covers, and and everything was super clean inside as well. When you order an engine from them, they will do a videoed compression check and send it to you for your approval before they ship.

[Jeff Norwell]

Rich. that is really horrible, sucks and I am sorry for that.
I have to agree with you on the sale of your car... that would have been worse... much worse.
I had a Model A coupe once... that I swear was cursed...... I had enough and decided to sell it..... but I had to replace the rad..... did that and $700 later I had a buyer coming that afternoon.
I took the car for a test ride to make sure the cooling system was functioning well. It sure was..... I was very happy because $30k was about to come my way that afternoon.
2 miles from my house..... the engine starts making a horrific Knock.
My heart sank and I was forced to tell the buyer that afternoon. Upon further inspection.... the crankshaft snapped at the first main.
I was so mad..I parted the car out into tiny pieces.

again.......very sorry..but We have all been there.
you will get this handled.

[RICH MUISE]

Yeah, thanks Jeff. You've no doubt been thankful that snapped crankshaft didn't happen just after it was sold. Many others wouldn't be thinking that way.
I've got a pretty good start on it. Hopefully this time next week my son and I will be finishing up reassembly.

[abe_lugo]

Sad end to that engine.  But
You got a lot use out of it. 
I'm sure you endjoyed the season overall. 

[RICH MUISE]

It definitely was my best-ever show/road trip season (except for the ending, lol). I was almost starting to get tired of doing them. Only the Goodguys show in Fort Worth was a disappointment......mainly because of the heat. All the rest were great, especially the "Run to the Inn of the Mountain Gods".

[djfordmanjack]

x2 Rich. I am in the same school of trading/selling.
A friend of mine wants my 61 beetle, but I refuse to sell it to him, because I am not sure about the engine. I has less power output than it should have ( I guess....hard to tell with a 40 horse sewing machine in the back... ).
I have reworked and tuned all the fuel and ignition parts and it's running nicely, doesn't overheat, doesn't smoke, doesn't make any noise...that IS phoney ! So far it has been very reliable even on the Autobahn, but I just don't know. I think the day after my friend would pick it up, it would throw a rod or valve. Those old cars can be silly....some want to stay with their current owners...
I am glad you are still hanging on with your 57, even your son helping. it may  bring new motivation and momentum in enjoying your very pretty 57 !

didn't happen just after it was sold. Many others wouldn't be thinking that way.

[gasman826]

Sooo...how goes the war?

[RICH MUISE]

It's a war!! we're ready to separate the engine from the tranny after dropping out the rack and pinion to get to the starter, and ran into a snag with the starter. The 3 bolts on the starter are a pain in the butt to get to, one you can't even see and have to reach all the way back from the front of the engine. Been there, done that in years past when a starter went out. The snag we ran into is the easy bolt to get to got the 10mm hex head rounded off. Maybe caused by my cheap sockets, and using a 12 point one instead of a good 6 point. We are trying to figure next step. We tried a pneumatic chisel trying to pop the head off. That's a no-go. I do have an air grinder with carbide bits and we may try that next, but first I want to see if we can even get the other two hard-to-reach bolts out.
If not, I'll undo everything that's on the core support and pull it, the grille and nosepiece off so we can clear a path to remove the engine and tranny as a unit. I do not have access to an overhead crane that would be necessary for the height to lift the engine and tranny.
Any ideas on removing stubborn bolts? For sure I'll locate a new pro-grade socket and maybe pick up an impact wrench. I'd rather not remove the tranny, but it would be easier access than fighting it from underneath.