Competition Engineering Adjustable Shocks

[JimNolan]

Guys,
   Larry Nickolson told me to buy drag shocks for my car if I were going to drag race it. He claimed he was really impressed at how much different it made his launchs. Well, when I got home from Columbus I ordered the Compitition Engineering 247-2610 front shocks. The price was $43.00 a piece. I thought I'd try them just to see how they worked. I put them on the 80/20 setting hoping the car would be driveable and once at the track I could change them to the 90/10 setting for drag racing. I installed them and here is my assesment.
   THESE SHOCKS ON THE 80/20 SETTING ARE ONE OF THE BEST IMPROVEMENTS FOR DRIVABILITY THAT I'VE DONE TO MY CAR. THE FRONT END DOESN'T DIVE WHEN I STOP SUDDENLY AND THE FRONT END IS FIRMER WITH NO UP AND DOWN OR SIDE TO SIDE OSCELLATION. YOU'D THINK YOU WERE DRIVING MORE OF A MUSCLE CAR. THE RIDE IS FIRMER BUT WELCOME AND THE FEEL OF THE CAR CORNERING AND HITTING BUMPS IS GREAT. THE RIDE REMINDS ME OF THE 2003 MUSTANG GT CONVERTABLE WE HAD, ONLY NOT AS BAD OF A RIDE.
  I've had the car over bumps, uneven railroad tracks and dips in the road. I love them. I'm not going to change the setting at the drag strip either. That's too much trouble to begin with and I ain't touching those shocks for fear of loosing what I've got now. I don't know what they would feel like on a Custom with a lighter engine but for my Fairlane 500 with the FE engine they are absolutely great. Jim

[RICH MUISE]

Sounds like a winner.
I got to thinking about what you said about lighter custom models, and I'm wondering if there is any significant difference in front wheel weight assuming the same drivetrain and options.. I realize the Customs are 3-400 lbs lighter than the fairlanes, but except for the difference in wheelbase, and the weight of the components to add those inches, most all of the added weight is in the rear actually mostlly rear of the rear axel. It would be interesting to see the results of a weight check with individual wheel scales.
This also got me to thinking if the rear shocks that are working for you so well would work equally as well on a custom, especially if I'm correct in my assumption that the more significant difference in weights at the wheels is at the rear axels. This may make the rear shocks you're using too stiff for a custom.

[JimNolan]

Rich,
   I just threw the line about the shocks working on my Fairlane 500 well is because that's what I got. Someone else may have a different opinion or experience with drag shocks.
   As far as the rear shocks are concerned I don't think there's any difference in a 55 Ford Shock as compared to a 57 Ford Shock other than the compressed and extended length. When the rear shock is compressed it's laying over on it's side at about a 45 degree or more angle. So the concern of the shock bottoming out is unfounded as far as I'm concerned. But, I can only speak for my experience. The ability to put wide tires on your car, take a trip and if you have a flat be able to change tires without disassembly of the rear suspension is a no brainer to me. On the other hand, if you cut out your fenders in a big circle around your tires or if the only trip you ever take it on is on a flat bed trailer you don't need to screw with different shocks.
   Having a car like mine is is difficult in a couple of ways. When you go to a car show you're competing with cars that are unloaded off a flat bed trailer and the bottom of the car looks as clean as the top. If you race your car your competing with cars that are unloaded off a flat bed trailer and are designed to do one thing, race.
   It's not been easy putting my car together and installing the right compontents on it. You can't make it go through the quarter mile in 12 seconds and use it. You can't make it a show car and use it. Making a 1957 Ford that looks presentable, is dependable, and you can sit in the drivers seat comfortably for 17 hrs. at 60-80 mph while getting over 20mpg and then put it on the race track when you get there and do well is a hell of a lot harder than building a show car or drag car. I know that for a fact. The 55 Ford rear shocks was a valuable change for me and how I use my car. The front shocks along with the big sway bar has made the front end of my car perfect. It feels like a muscle car now. Jim

[57AGIN]

Jim:

Very interesting thread and great information.  When my Custom gets back on the road, I'll keep this very much in mind as a possible change.  I'd always been told that the HD front sway bar is a detriment on the drag strip, but I've never heard an explanation of why.  In fact some of the owners of full-time race cars I've talked to have removed their front sway bars.  My thought is that perhaps it could interfere with the upward movement of the front end on acceleration, which in turn places more weight on the rear tires.

Bob
57 AGIN

[shopratwoody]

Bob,
You're correct about the sway bar. Took mine off for drag racing. I used 90/10's on the front. It
loosens up the front and lets front rise higher.
Jim has a point about trying to drive and race your car or show and drive it also. I think I've
found about as close as possible with mine nowadays. Looks good (to me) and will run about
a 13:30. Close as I could get anyway.

[57AGIN]

Ron:

If we ever get the NMRA or some other sanctioning body out here would you be interested in doing some shootout type bracket type racing?  We might be able to get a few more guys out here interested in inexpensive (lol)drag racing local type racing among mid-fiftys cars (hopefully Fords).  BTW 13.30's is very respectable given the fact that fresh off the showroom floor muscle cars from the 60's had a hard time getting times like that back in the day (No I'm not talking about Gas Rhonda, Don Nicholsen, Sox & Martin, or Grumpy Jenkins, just driven on the street relatively stock muscle cars).

Bob
57 AGIN

[JimNolan]

Bob and Ron,
  You guys are right, I've heard also that sway bars are a detriment to drag racing. I don't have much of a choice though. I just came back from looking at my 63. Where the painter lives is a 5 mile stretch of highway that is filled with pot holes, dips and rough pavement. I was doing about 50 mph and I can ride in the car comfortably. It's not a Lincoln ride but it's better than a Mustang ride. I was wondering why the car didn't go skyward on the 20 side of my 80/20 setting when I hit some of those dips. If the sway bar is a detriment to the front end lifting that could be the reason. Fed Ex just pulled in, my tires are here. Bye

[shopratwoody]

Bob,
If I drag race the car it wouldn't be streetable again. I have to do one thing or the other. Ran mid 11's consistently.
Not very streetable, Too hard on things. Had to make a choice when I quit Nostalgia drag racing. Wanted to
drive the car again. You all have fun running whatever numbers you choose. I do miss it though. Don't really
feel good enough to participate anyway
BTW, nice pics Bob.
I had a R.R. that ran 12:08 at the Winternats in J/SA in 68. Got a couple trophies with the 57 also.
Couldn't compete with Socks and Martin though.

[JimNolan]

Bob,
 Look for a smaller group of guys to race with. I just joined a group out of Ohio ( U.M.T.R ) United Manual Transmission Racing ,that races about 10 tracks including Ohio, Michigan, Indiana and Kentucky. They draw about 70 cars at an event and have two classes to run in. One is the QuickStick class that has cars that run 11.99 or faster and then they have the StreetStick class that runs anywhere slower than 11.99. The guy leading the points division in my class is driving a 1998 Dodge Neon with a 122ci engine turning 18.5 seconds through the quarter mile. The idea of someone racing a 1998 Dodge Neon is not impressive. What is impressive is the fact he doesn't have to have a Y-Block, FE Block or small block Chevy to be welcome in the group. Connie and I are driving to the Edgewater Race Park right out of Cinncinatti this Saturday morning and possibly competing in the Manual Transmission Nationals this Saturday night. Anyway, we've got nothing to lose and maybe a lot to gain by racing with these guys.  
  I'm sure there would be more enjoyment racing with a Ford Group but for me in Northeren Indiana there's just two events a year. I'm not waiting around on that. I'm not getting any younger. Jim


 

[glen b henderson]

Jim, it sounds to me from you post that the drag racing bug has bitten you real bad. The only medicine is to build you a drag car and live with it! It don't have to be pretty, just quick.

[JPotter57]

How about you Glen?  Did that trip to the digs last weekend get you wound up?  I wish I coulda been there, but I had to work..Once it gets in your blood, its there forever, maybe dormant, but still there.

[JimNolan]

Glen,
   I'm getting my 1963 Galaxie XL Boxtop out of the paint shop next week. It's been in the paint shop for the last two years and I've sort of lost interest in it. I went up and looked at it today after he finished buffing it. It'll just knock your eyes out. It's a georgous car. It's got a 390+.030 block with 406 grooved crank and 427 rods with forged pistons giving me a 10.3 compression ratio. I used .020 steel head gaskets to give me a .045 quench. The block was decked and line bored and all the oil galleries have been enlarged and the oil pump gasket matched. The heads are 65cc 406 heads with 1.65 exhaust valves and teflon seals. The rotating and reciprical parts were all balanced including the harmonic balancer and flywheel. The intake is a 427 single 4 barrel aluminum. It has a 7 qt. oil pan with high volume oil pump. The cam is a Lunati 282/296 duration with .500/.500 lift. The exhaust manifolds are MadDog full length with 3.5" collectors flowing into 2.5" exhaust and flowmasters. The transmission is a Jay Broader racing Wide ratio C6 with shift kit and 2200 forged stall converter. I've got a 3.50 Tru-Trac going in it. The car has been raised 2" to accomodate the full length headers and 7 qt. oil pan. The front lower A frame eccentric shaft has been welded also. As you can tell by the cam and stall converter I used I want to make sure I can drag it more than once.
  I'm going to finish the Galaxie this winter and I'll decide if I'm going to keep it. But, the 57 is the car I wanted for 44 years. It don't matter how much money I throw at it or how many things I change on it. If I can be buried in it, I'll do that. I would like to see it run in the high 14's or lower 15's though.
  You're right about the bug hitting me. I'm going to be honest and hope a lot of guys miss this thread. My knees were shaking when I was on the line when I first got there. I knew I was going to screw up, just knew it. In the eight runs I made down the track my reacton time in all eight didn't go over .194 and I didn't red light once. I loved it. After the forth time down the track I said to myself, I can do this. I had a ball. And I don't mind losing. The only person you can blame in Bracket racing is yourself and it doesn't matter how fast you are. You're absolutely right, I got the bug. Jim
   

[glen b henderson]

Sounds like you already have a race car! Put a set of slicks and gears on it and go racing. Yes James I got hit by a swarm of them little critters. We only got to make two very easy passes, but I ran a 13.27 @ 98. I am sure that is the quickest run I have ever made, can't remember since it was over forty yrs ago that I was last on a track. I had a pretty quick 55 scrub back then, but I am sure it would not run that fast. Jim, I have a friend that has a 63 boxtop that has been a race car from day one. It was raced out of Cook Motor Co in Panama City, FL. It will be @ the ODRR event this year, I'll get a pic and send to you.

[geraldchainsaw]

ok,  1st i'm not into drag racing,  but i like the thoughts on the drag shocks was great,  sounds like something i should have,  thanks    jerry

[geraldchainsaw]

i wrote the co about the adjustable shocks,  just got a reply,    quote,    we have no listing for your year car,   so Jim,  how did u get yours?,   jerry