Even if we had all the details, you're asking probably the most difficult question there is to answer. Research anything you can find on past similar sales, maybe talk to classic car dealer showrooms, etc., etc. Only you know what you'd be comfortable with for a price.
From my research over the years, there is a huge range in pricing mainly due to curb appearance I think, as well as the build. Not too different than a house from that aspect.
Sorry to hear about your health issues......that's a big reason why I'm selling mine.

Sorry to hear!  Anything I can do, call!

Hello everyone, over the years I have learned and enjoyed this site. Today I'm asking for a little help, last week I was told I have a serious health issue, I have decided to sell my toys and stuff one of them my 1957 Custom 300. I am asking for advice as to the asking price, I need to sell soon and would like to be fair about it. Thanks for your input.

Just my 2 cents, and that may be overpriced, but, I would guess 1956.  Unless the earlier Mercury had a different choke arrangement in 1955, the Ford engines had a divorced choke in 1955 and the choke for the 1956 was moved up on the carburetor for 1956,  The Ford vehicles with the 4 barrel carburetor for 1956 had a dual diaphragm vacuum advance and this has a single. Another clue to 56 is the ignition resistor, which was not used in the 6 volt 1955 system. I also note that the heads have freeze plugs and this was dropped in the 1957 year.  So my guess is a 1956 Mercury 312.

I'm glad you're happy with the ADDCO.  It is also good to know ADDCO upgraded the bushings.

Well, I took Gassn826 advice and put an Addco 7/8" factory replacement sway bar on my Ranchero and I'm glad I did it fit perfect, and they now have the correct urethan bushings with it, I just couldn't use the SW T-bird style one on mine because it sits to low, I didn't realize how wimpy the stock one was until I put this one on, very happy with my choice.

Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2024-05-01 13:01I think you are doing great in bringing this car back as it is/was, without restoring it. making it mechanically sound and enjoy as is.

Thanks! I am definitely going to make a couple changes but nothing major. Different head lights and rims in the long run.
I love how it looks! That's my goal to drive it as much as possible! That's what my dad did when he had it. He drove it to work almost daily back in his 20s! Just want to look cool and drive fast!😂

I think you are doing great in bringing this car back as it is/was, without restoring it. making it mechanically sound and enjoy as is.

I'm terrible about taking photos... but first real test drive after getting the car back! It went well. I love how it runs and rides. Filled her up with gas and put a few miles on it. Got a few compliments and some good conversation at the gas station! Now back to work with wiring. Will be ordering headlights next. Also going to crawl underneath and recheck everything mount, bracket, and bolt after settling in with some miles on it. Gotta check Speedometer cable too it's not functioning so will check while I'm underneath.

Jim, and Gary....I hear your concerns. The design is phony, if you ask me. Usually a fuel bowl will vent directly to above the venturis, or air horn assembly. I have no idea why they designed it so it needs to have a separate vent cap.
Like I said, this fuel bowl was never ever machined or threads cut where the linkage boss is in upper front of bowl. maybe a NOS replacement, or replaced during rebuilding or professional remanufacture. The car did stall in idle, when the vent hole was originally plugged with, what seemed to be original type of aluminium plug. It took me a long time to even find the problem. it must be somewhere in the first 10 pages of this topic. with the plug removed the idle stall was history and running nicely ever since.
Considering water and debris. The vent is very much hidden under the og 1957 dry element air cleaner. and I have not experienced any trouble whatsoever. Like I said the og vent cap design also leaves the vent wide open in idle, that means if the car is not running and parked, it's always open as well. I have not experience any significant fuel fumes from the semi-open vent. Also the fuel bowl float, is flat on top and nearly touches the vent opening. it leaves a very narrow gap, maybe 1/32 or so  around the vent hole, the float covers the full area inside the hole. There is no pressure in the bowl. So I reckon it will not smell any different, than any 4bbl carb that is venting the bowl to inside the air horn. It would smell the same from the air cleaner snout.

My main problem here certainly are seals disintegrating from getting in touch with ethanol fuel.
I may want to pull the bowl and check for the power valve seal. I reckon if that seal was going bad, it would be running awfully rich.

edit, this is when I originally corrected the problem with the plugged bowl vent (7 years ago)

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