Can anyone that has knowledge on ring and pinion gear meshing tell me if this looks like trash by the way its wearing? I installed this set, ever since I installed it I have been hearing a whine that I do not like. I have set by backlash and preload as per Yukon specs but not sure if I should scrap this set or keep trying to get it right. I'm concerned with the wear lines but don't know enough about it to troubleshoot.
Can't help with the wear pattern (although it looks even to me), I know a little less than nothing about gearing, however, when I first installed my redone differential with the yukon trac-loc, it had a whine also. A little research told me I had picked the wrong type of gear oil. I originally went for the synthetic good stuff, and that was the wrong choice. Yukon calls for a conventional with an additive. When I drained the synthetic out and put the conventional in, the noise immediately went away.
You are only showing the coast side of the gear; curious to see what the drive side looks like.
I used the proper gear oil recommended with the additive. The sad part about it is I did it myself and once I heard the whining I took the unit back out and had a local shop that specializes in rear ends and axles look at it. 350.00 later it sounded worse than when I had put it together. I bought the set up from Quick Performance but they have been putting me off on responses, I filled out a long questionnaire for them to determine if they need to work with me or not. I am trying to decide if I start over with a new set or keep working with this set and just give it more miles. I'm hoping someone on the site can tell by the wear marks not just the wear pattern as to whether it appears normal or indications of abnormal wear for just a few miles. More than anything I hate the removal/replacement from under the car. I thought I would enjoy the challenge of a do it myself project but when the dust settles I may find I should have bit the bullet and bought a complete unit and bolted it in, (coast side photo attached).
Thanks for the input.
If those gears were made of oak, I'd say nice grain. Polished gears should not be 'grainy'. This level of polishing may be acceptable but I have never ever seen ring and pinion gears that didn't have a mirror finish. If they were that grainy out of the box, I would have sent them back. This will be a true test of Yukon's customer support. With so many variables to ring and pinion setup, it will be easy for Yukon to squirrel out of standing behind their product.
I was also surprised when I read several years ago that many gear manufacturers recommend organic oil over synthetic.
If the gear contact pattern is incorrect, correcting the pattern and eliminating the whine is unlikely. Once the pattern is 'set' or broken in, a new pattern is not impossible but the whine will likely be present. Since you have it completely disassembled, I wouldn't reassemble without a new gear set.
Since you have little 9 experience, ask questions as you assemble. Take and share pictures of the pattern with the pattern grease.
I'm no expert, but it looks like the pinion depth is too deep. I'd add a shim and reset backlash and see what that looks like. Gasman826 has posted while I'm typing. I'd follow his advice and get a new gear set.
Pinion depth does look a little deep. Also running your backlash on the high side, closer to .0012 will make for quitter running gears.
Interesting reading. I'm wondering if thomasso meant .012(twelve thousands) not .0012(one and two tenths)??
I had a 10 thousands shim in it but when I encountered the noise I sent a picture with yellow paste pattern and tech support told me I needed to remove a shim to get more pinion depth, I remove it and this is where she sets. I was concerned about the grain pattern, looks good if it's wood(lol). I was hoping to reuse this set but I think that's good advice about going back with new set since I have it apart. Thank again for your input..
If you went from .010 shim to no shim, that is too much correction. Usually .002 or .003 shim change will make a noticeable difference in tooth pattern. Look in a Motor's or Chilton manual that covers 9 inch rears. Strive for the tooth pattern they recommend. I have set up many rear ends of several brands using the tooth pattern method in Chilton's, never a noise problem. If the pattern is correct and noise persists, the gears are not ground correctly. John
I agree pinion is too deep, but you need to remove shims, not add. As stated, .010 is too much correction at one time. Also, what is the condition of the bearings? is it possible you could have damaged one or more during disassembly adding to the whine noise?
I spun all the bearings and used a stethoscope to see if one was noisy but no issues there. The shop I took it to kept my shims. I assumed they were all the same but never checked them to see if there were different thicknesses but that sure makes sense now. I'm going to start from scratch with a new set of gears. I called the seller Monday again and the contact keeps promising he'll get to my photos and recording of the whine I sent them. I'm getting the feeling I'm being avoided. I'm giving up on them and just won't buy from them again. I was hoping for tech support and possibly a discount on another set of gears. I am not expecting them to warranty since I may have done something wrong on initial set up. My main thing is to get support. That's why I posted it here hoping for some experienced eyes and feed back. I pulled out my old Chilton's books and found a section on the diff. I think my next set will be from Randy's. I should have bought from them to start with.
I did find out that Quick Performance is buying the Yukon posi unit from Randy's but is putting their own ring and pinion set together as a package. The old saying you get what you pay for keeps coming to mind. I've learned a few things on this one so my next one should be easier. Thanks again for all your input and suggestions 57ers.
Cobra Joe, you may not be familiar with 9" rears, but to move the pinion away from the ring gear requires MORE shim, not less. John
No, John, I'm, just getting old. :005: Most of the rears I've been doing the past 10 or so years have been 8.8's and Dana's placing the shims under the pinion bearing, that's why I asked if he may have damaged the bearing in the process. I totally skipped the fact that it was 9' and you add shims under the pinion support to decrease depth. Sorry, my bad.
I have a question that is related to this topic..................I have a newly rebuilt pumpkin( not rebuilt by me .....I'm not that smart ), my question is what gear oil / lube should I use? It's an open rear end, and totally clean and dry.
Thanks in advance to the Forum members.
John
You are correct .012 max.
I'm old, always been 90w
I took my third member to a rear end shop for new gears, bearings etc. When I asked about synthetic lube he said it is fine and the only concern would be having old axle seals. This is the first time I've used synthetic and 8,000 miles so far with no issues.. All my other cars I use 80-90 GL4.