Jerry, First I pump the master to get fluid out and moving.  Then I open all the bleed screws at once.  The ones closest to the master start to show fluid first.  Generally it takes about 30 -40 minutes for the rears to show fluid.  Only problem is there is no way to catch the fluid like you can with a helper operating the pedal.

a few more pics. Interestingly while parking my 57, across the street a sweet GTV was also backing into a parking spot. Out stepped a friendly couple and we immediately got to talking. He instantly recognized my 57 for what it was, as he had been recently working on a '55 Thunderbird, 292 and all. Turns out he even runs a classic car shop and seems very competent. My son and me had previously seen his  red Alfa several times in the streets, but never got to actually meet him. So this was a nice surprise, obviously we exchanged tel numbers, and will keep in touch for future shows, cruises and such. Always good to meet friendly like minded car people !

In preparation of the upcoming summer trip, I am starting to drive the 57CS more on a daily basis. Battery is 11 years old and barely holds power to restart after a few weeks, so this is something I will have to replace asap. Honestly getting 11 years out of a conventional car battery is obviously great. It came with my Del Rio.
Had a pretty decent spring Sunday, and I was again able to find a parking lot right in the middle of downtown.

ok,  question,  when  using the gravity system,  how long does it take for  the whl cylinder to fill?,  quick, 5 min,  10 min what?,  fast  enough that you have to stay there?,      an if your gong with disks,  you start in the front,  an drums,  back?   right,?,   thanks    jerry

hi,   I'm   in the same process,  but someone  is doing it for me,  would  you have the name  of the kit,  so I can across  rrf it?,  thanks    jerry

I just finished installing a kit that fit as advertised. It has an 8 inch booster with an angled bracket to allow the booster to clear the manifold. The master has two reservoirs and the bore is .9". I replaced all the hydraulic components including all the lines. Now without the vacuum applied I have the same pedal height and action as the old single master, so I am happy with that.

ok,    found a old radio with CD,  I installed it,  minus antenna, , so all I get to use is the  CD, works  great,    also added a off & on switch  to batt , ,   thanks  for all of the info guys

I have a Sniper Stealth 4150 and a Terminator X computer. It uses the same handheld screen. I don't know about the Sniper 2 but it supposed to be improved over the Sniper. I have a laptop so I have started to learn about these systems (no expert for sure). I know the only learning the system does is to correct the A/F ratio. You enter an idle, cruise, and full throttle AF and the system adjusts the time the injectors stay open and develops an A/F map. It remembers the corrections but it doesn't apply them until you command it. I found that my car drove well with the start-up program by the Wizard function. I found there were some very large correction factors uncovering a developing fuel delivery issue (filter started clogging up). My system also includes timing control as well. The system can be tuned completely but it is not necessary unless you are having specific problems. What engine is your Sniper 2 on?

Found this online... It uses (2) batteries and it can connect to your stereo if you have a pin aux input on your radio... Price is right. Amazon has one too with a USB cable.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/ilive-portable-cd-player/6538148.p?skuId=6538148

https://www.amazon.com/VikTck-External-Universal-Connection-Navigation/dp/B08C9BGSMK


Lynn