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update on Rich's build

Started by RICH MUISE, 2015-05-07 23:40

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RICH MUISE

My bad..I misspoke...mine do have clips on them. Here's a pic, also pics of the windshield my wife and I installed this morning.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ecode70D

#16
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-05-09 16:48
My bad..I misspoke...mine do have clips on them. Here's a pic, also pics of the windshield my wife and I installed this morning.

     HAH.....    I told you that installing windshields  is a walk in the park.   Sometimes we have a tendency to worry too much about these things.  Then we find out that the job is actually very simple after we think about it and  actually do it.  I'm very happy that you have your windshield in your car.  You must be greatly relieved. Jay

RICH MUISE

#17
Yes you did, and that was exactly why I gave it a shot doing it myself. The hardest part of the install was getting the seal and stainless in place on the windshield getting it ready. It actually took Connie and I less than 1/2 hr. to get it installed once I had everything ready. I still have to clean up the mess a bit, and install the screws and corner pieces, but as you said, it was alot of stressing for naught.
Several things I did that I think made the job easier and pretty much eliminated the risk of being messy enough to get on the headliner: I installed the seal to the glass with 3M butyl caulking (Bill recommended and my glass guy)and let it set for a few days before attempting to intall the stainless. The butyl never sets up hard, so that eliminates any time frame windows to worry about. The butyl cleans up easily..just remove excess with plastic scraper, and wipe with mineral spirits. I was having trouble getting the seal to stay in place in the corners, so I tried Gorilla Gel super glue. A few dots on the stainless, pull the rubber in place and hold it for about 10 seconds, and it stays put!
After getting the rope in the channel around the glass, I soaked the channel with Dupont Teflon liquid. This is the stuff Bill told me about for lubricating cables. Well, it works great on windshield lubing also and isn't near as messy as having to keep spraying a soap solution on the areas. The rope soaks up the excess fluid, and when you are actually pulling the seal over the flange, it squishes out the lubricant just where you need it. cleanup is easy, and the white film left just wipes clean.
Lastly, I did not want to install the assembly to the body dry, but at the same time, I was afraid of getting wet caulking on the headliner.... The 3M caulking strips solved that problem. soft enough to squish down and not prevent the seal from setting in place, but definitely not a gooey mess.
BTW, thanks again for your encouragement to do it myself..it really was a walk in the park.
a really late edit:.....don't use the Teflon as a lubricant. What was I thinking? It'll keep the sealant from adhering. I've got a small leak, suspect that's the cause.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

hiball3985

Rich, thank you for the pictures of the corner piece with the clips, that now answers all my questions and confusion. The clip on one side is mostly rotted away from what I can see so the middle sort of flops out in the breeze  :005: Jay informed me that those clips always rot away so you are lucky to have good ones.

Nice job on the windshield install and glad it went in without issues..
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

RICH MUISE

"Jay informed me that those clips always rot away so you are lucky to have good ones."
I wasn't aware they were an issue, but in hindsight, I'm glad I por-15'd the clips way back when.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

hiball3985

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-05-10 09:19
"Jay informed me that those clips always rot away so you are lucky to have good ones."
I wasn't aware they were an issue, but in hindsight, I'm glad I por-15'd the clips way back when.
That was a smart thing to do. I assume they are just sheet metal and not SS. I've never removed moldings, do the long pieces have some kind of lip or do they use clips also?
Sorry for hijacking your thread but after seeing your pictures of the windshield the gears in my head started grinding  :003:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

RICH MUISE

The 4 long pieces have a full length leg that is part of the stainless configuration. They cannot be removed or installed once the windshield is installed in the car...the glass, seal and trim except for the corner pieces install/remove on the car as an assembly. Only the 2 small center pieces just slide onto the longer pieces with no clips like the corner pieces.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

hiball3985

Thanks Rich, that is what it thought the long pieces would be like. I would like a new windshield but I can live with the one I have for now, if I try to fix everything 100% I'll be to old to drive it by the time I'm done  :003:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

canadian_ranchero

when you put the window in do you set the bottom in and work the window rubber from the sides to the top,or do you set in the top and work the bottom?

RICH MUISE

bottom first, then worked up the sides.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

Funny....the "book" shows pulling the rope out from the top first.  That is how my Edsel went in.  Got around the coners on the bottom rear, couple of hard pushes on the lower portion of the windshield and it nearly popped into place.  Just pulled the rest out, couple more shoves and was in place.  Guess it don't much matter....
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

Ecode70D

#26
Quote from: canadian_ranchero on 2015-05-10 22:45
when you put the window in do you set the bottom in and work the window rubber from the sides to the top,or do you set in the top and work the bottom?

    Gary
     When I do a 57-58 windshield,  I set the lower part of the rubber slot over the body opening and start at the bottom.    Then I slowly pull the rope from the bottom and finish with the rope on top.   The most important thing is to make sure that the windshield assembly is 100% dead center of the body opening.   Windshields get cracked when they are not on center and people try to make corrections after it is almost in place.  Jay

RICH MUISE

#27
Exactly.
A few more updates....Having the windshield in place finally allowed me to play a bit with the wipers. I had an approximate idea of the wiper sweep, but just an eyeball until I could attach the arms and actually see it on the glass. My concern was because of the hard arm wiper system I made to replace the pulley and cable setup. First pic is of the nice shiney arms...love that shiney stuff. second pic is where I stopped the wipers pretty close to the end of the sweep. Another 1+ inch would be great, but I'm not planning on driving a whole lot in rain, so I'll call it good for now. I could remove everything and shorten the pivot point on the arms attached to the actual wiper pivot to gain some sweep, but I'm not sure if I'll bother.
Having the intermittent wipers is really cool, but I've only got about 1/2 of the different intermittent speeds it should have I think. I'm not sure if that's a problem with the control module or the multifunction switch on the Mustang steering column...the later I would guess. I did put in a new wiper motor when I did the project, but the module and multi-funtion switch are salvage yard items. I've got a spare control modul I pulled from a salvage yard, so I'll try that first. If nothing changes I'll order a new Multi function switch. I'm assuming here since some of the intermittent speeds work, that it is not a problem with the wiring harness I made for the wipers.
Next pics are of the cowl drain extension I made for the passenger side. The oem tube would be dumping water above where all my engine-to-computer wires go in, the copper pipes will dump it below that area now. I added two bands of rubber to the tube to keep it from banging around. The clamp keeps the weight of the copper off the rubber drain tube.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ecode70D

#28
Rich
    I really like your cowl drain setup.  When I did my car I was not smart enough to do something like that.   Hopefully Guenter in Austria sees these pictures. 
    Personally I don't worry too much about the windshield wipers on my old cars.  They are only used to pass inspection.   If I do get caught in the rain, I use rainex.  But don't tell the  inspection people .  HAHA

RICH MUISE

I think the weight of the drain could cause issues with the rubber down the road..hopefully not. For that reason I'm not installing one on the drivers side. The only reason I did this one is because of the added wiring and openings on the passenger side panel that aren't on the driver's side. Had I thought about it before I finished my interior, I probably would have added some tubing directly to the cowl. Pat Fleishman said he does that using the panel adhesive. I looked at it from a "I can't weld the backside of that tube extension" mentality, never giving the panel bond a thought.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe