Trunk Lid

[JimNolan]

Hi Guys,
    Has anyone out there got a 57 Fairlane Trunk Lid with no rust that is straight with no rust. Second question: Would you part with it and how much. Thanks guys. Jim

[RICH MUISE]

Jim...I hope you're looking for a lid for another project and not a "mishap" with yours.

[JimNolan]

Rich,
   It's for my car. Years ago a tree feel on my car and collapsed the roof, truck lid and right tail fin. The roof was hammered out with care as was the right fin pulled out and the trunk lid straightened. When I restored the car the amount of filler to hide these small dents was negligable. I was very happy with the outcome and the looks of it. But, the guy that did the body work decided the framework underneath the the trunk lid should be bonded to the lid itself. Over a period of time ( 15 months) the bonding agent apparently shrunk or expanded enabling the lid itself to buckle causing a small depression in the lid. I'm the only one that has noticed this depression. But, since I'm the one that restored this 57 to suit me, I'm the one that's got to be satisfied.
   My painter came to the hanger today to paint the firewall of my 63 Galaxie that I'm restoring ( when I'm finished it'll make my 57 look like a ratrod ) and he told me he had an idea on how to fix the lid without replacing it. So, I guess I'll give him another chance and hold off buying another trunk lid right now.
   You guys restoring your cars take note. Don't bond the framework of the hood or trunk lid to the top metal. You might be sorry if you do.

[RICH MUISE]

Ouch! I understand exactly what you're talking about. Last month when I was putting the final hi-build on my trunk lid, I noticed if I didn't have an extremly light touch with my blocking board, the outer skin would give and the sanded areas would take the shape of the subframe underneath. That's probably what your bodyman ran into, and was trying to avoid, and your trunk lid is bigger than mine, so I imagine the problem was compounded. You're right it shouldn't be bonded, it's got to be able to expand and contract with temperature changes, which would be my guess caused the depression, rather than the bonding agent expanding or shrinking. It's probably easier to do a panel that is basically a large expanse of flat metal,like the trunk and hood, in colder weather when posible so the metal is tighter. I would think unless he is able to break the bonding loose, it's going to be an ongoing problem.

[2x57sedan]

i have a lid its pretty nice i dont know what shipping would be im in hamilton ohio

[JimNolan]

57 sedan,
    How much do you want for it. I'd come down and get it instead of having you ship it. Also, let me talk to my painter first. Yesterday he told me he thought he could fix it. I'll see tomorrow what his intentions are. It'd better sound good because it was his bright idea that caused it to buckle in the first place. I'd just as soon fix it with a good lid. Jim

[RICH MUISE]

jim...A few things to think about to suggest to your painter: I'm guessing he used some type of "bonding agent" from a caulking type tube rather than a liquid panel bonding that some shops are using to bond outer skins with. There is a chance he may be able get in between the skin and the subframe with a tool like a Japanese flush saw. They are very thin and flexible and sharp as a razor and have no tooth set. With the saw not having any tooth set, you can run it back and forth against the inside of your trunk skin with no damage to that surface(it won't even scratch wood). There should be enough spaces on your trunk to get the saw into to get it started. They can be had at lowe's, home depot, etc. how effective this would work would depend on how crazy he went with the glue, and how gummy the glue is. If it has gotten hard and brittle the saw will work great, if it's gummy like a caulking it'll just gum up the saw teeth.The only other thing I can think of is to have the trunk dipped if in fact that process will remove the glue.

[suede57ford]

Adding some material under the the Trunk, Hood, or Roof bracing can firm up the panel to alow the block sanding surface to be more rigid.  This helps keep the panel from "Tin Canning" while sanding.

Avoid using a 1 part seam sealer, like goes in a caulking gun, for firming up the braces..   A one part will actually shrink some when drying which can cause some low spots in your panel.

It would be better to use a 2 part product, like 3M/Duramix 4274 NVH Dampening Material.    It is similar to the "Hershey Kiss" spots of sealer as you see on the new car inner panels.   Because it is a two part with a activator, it does not change shape when curing.  It is applied with a two part gun, either the 3M 8117 or 3M 8571(economyversion) applicator gun.  Or borrow an applicator gun from a bodyshop buddy. 

Squeeze the Dampening Material up under the beams and remove the excess that is showing to give a nice clean appearance. Igt has a 1 hour work time so, you can add it to the intrusion beams, or wherever they have a sealer or foam to reinforce the inner panel.  Let it cure a few hours before begining bodywork.

[shopratwoody]

Now that's some good info for us living behind the curve