morfing a 58 custom into a 57 custom 300

[RICH MUISE]

It'll be worth the effort though. The problems that can arise if you don't do it will be much more costly and time consuming. Ask how I know. I did major work on both front fenders...caps, headlight surrounds, etc, and nose piece had both ends cut out and replaced. Never checked them on the car before I painted. When I did a rough check-fit finally(after paint), the gap between the fenders and nosepiece is not correct..probably because of the fenders rather than the nosepiece, but there's no way I'm redoing the fenders, so I'll modify the nose piece instead to fit better. I've got to repaint the hood anyway, so when I get around to putting the front sheetmetal on, I'll repaint the hood and nosepiece together on the car.

[Ecode70D]

In most cases, you have to trail fit the pieces a few times before the paint is applied.  Like Rich stated painting first will be a costly mistake.   

[57 imposter]

I have decided not to bond my tail light housings on. instead I want to make some out of steel that can be welded on. Does anyone out there have any experience with making these or know someone who can?

[electricalan]

I was going to ask a similar question  about that. I assume your talking about the exterior surround ,which I think is pot metal.I was going to ask if anyone had ever got rid of that seam with lead filler or whatever.I am almost sure it can not be welded,but not sure about a lead fill. I think reproducing it in steel would be very difficult and that's why ford did not.Good luck and hope we get some help here as usuall.

[Jeff Norwell]

Correct.The tail light housings are pot metal.Hard to repair and cannot be welded on.You may want to use a grafting bonding adhesive as they do in modern body shops.If that is your desire.

[electricalan]

Thanks Jeff I think I will have it professionally done if I go that way.   Al

[gasman826]

used panel adhesive on fender extensions on both ends and the skinning of the roof.  After adhesive cure time, skimmed a layer of ALL-METAL for bonding strength and moisture proofing and finished out with body filler.  This work is more than three years old and under paint for well over a year.  This is not a new process...has been done many times.

[Zapato]

used panel adhesive on fender extensions on both ends and the skinning of the roof.  After adhesive cure time, skimmed a layer of ALL-METAL for bonding strength and moisture proofing and finished out with body filler.  This work is more than three years old and under paint for well over a year.  This is not a new process...has been done many times.

This is the way to go, just be sure to let the epoxy cure completely. Really simple and foolproof. You'll probably need some duct tape to hold it in place as its a vertical bond and gravity will want to pull it. This is something that anyone can do visit your paint supply house for materials.

Zap-

[electricalan]

As usuall, thanks for the info guys.  Al

[Jeff Norwell]

Fantastic work Gary.
Outstanding.

[57 imposter]

The thing that bothers me is the very thin edge of the housings. I am worried there is not enough surface area to get a good bond. I have used the panel adhesive with good results on other things but getting up some morning to find that hair line crack around the painted tail light housing is a reoccurring nightmare for me. The housings I have are intended to be bonded on but I am going to continue to talk to some sheet metal guys and see if they think they can do it. I am kind of working from the front to the rear and at the rate I'm moving, I have plenty of time to look for options.

[4thgen57]

Gasman, Did you buy stock in vice grips?

[RICH MUISE]

Doug: I tried brazing with a low temp rod...it didn't work at all. The housing melted before the rod. Bonding is the only way. I seriously doubt you'll find someone willing to try and make those...if you did you'll probably need to remortgage the homested.
I was under the opinion a while back that that panel bond was a real watery spray on type, but last year I watched my buddy replacing a roof on a hail damaged Mercedes using an application tool that layed the stuff he was using down in a heavy bead. That's what you'd want for the housings.
The housing are surprisingly malable, btw. I was able to greatly improve the profile fit to the fender by carefully tapping with a plastic hammer.
If you do it, go in first with a coarse wire brush on a drill motor or grinder and rough up the mating surfaces for a better adhesion.
As an added insurance, I flowed a bunch of por-15 into the fender/housing cavity. That stuff works it's way into gaps and also funtions as an adhesive....besides, you'll want your fender and housing bare when you assemble, so the por15 will give it the future rust protection. Make sure you also use the threaded studs/nuts for a mechanical join as well, and tighten those quickly before the panel bond (or epoxy ahdesive) sets up. Epoxy adhesives are available in different setting times, so get a slow set product to give you time to fine adjust the location.
Talk about overkill..LOL..I just remembered after the epoxy set up, and before the por-15, I kneaded up some epoxy putty and ran a bead around the inside also, forcing it in with my fingers. Not sure if it falls under overkill, or better safe than sorry, but you asked.

[electricalan]

Lookin pretty sweet from where I am sitting. Al

[57 imposter]

Well yours came out looking just like they should. The guys at the street rod shop who did my pickup, have bonded lots of pot metal and never had a failure. Some of it is over eight years old. it's probably just my old paranoia that says if anything can go wrong with something like this, it will go wrong for me.