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#1
General Discussion / Re: Sway bar
Last post by gasman826 - Today at 09:25
I'm glad you're happy with the ADDCO.  It is also good to know ADDCO upgraded the bushings.
#2
General Discussion / Re: Sway bar
Last post by 57chero - Yesterday at 23:18
Well, I took Gassn826 advice and put an Addco 7/8" factory replacement sway bar on my Ranchero and I'm glad I did it fit perfect, and they now have the correct urethan bushings with it, I just couldn't use the SW T-bird style one on mine because it sits to low, I didn't realize how wimpy the stock one was until I put this one on, very happy with my choice.
#3
Project Builds / Re: Flamin Mo 57
Last post by campy38 - Yesterday at 17:05
Quote from: djfordmanjack on Yesterday at 13:01I think you are doing great in bringing this car back as it is/was, without restoring it. making it mechanically sound and enjoy as is.

Thanks! I am definitely going to make a couple changes but nothing major. Different head lights and rims in the long run.
I love how it looks! That's my goal to drive it as much as possible! That's what my dad did when he had it. He drove it to work almost daily back in his 20s! Just want to look cool and drive fast!😂
#4
Project Builds / Re: Flamin Mo 57
Last post by djfordmanjack - Yesterday at 13:01
I think you are doing great in bringing this car back as it is/was, without restoring it. making it mechanically sound and enjoy as is.
#5
Project Builds / Re: Flamin Mo 57
Last post by campy38 - Yesterday at 09:49
I'm terrible about taking photos... but first real test drive after getting the car back! It went well. I love how it runs and rides. Filled her up with gas and put a few miles on it. Got a few compliments and some good conversation at the gas station! Now back to work with wiring. Will be ordering headlights next. Also going to crawl underneath and recheck everything mount, bracket, and bolt after settling in with some miles on it. Gotta check Speedometer cable too it's not functioning so will check while I'm underneath.
#6
Jim, and Gary....I hear your concerns. The design is phony, if you ask me. Usually a fuel bowl will vent directly to above the venturis, or air horn assembly. I have no idea why they designed it so it needs to have a separate vent cap.
Like I said, this fuel bowl was never ever machined or threads cut where the linkage boss is in upper front of bowl. maybe a NOS replacement, or replaced during rebuilding or professional remanufacture. The car did stall in idle, when the vent hole was originally plugged with, what seemed to be original type of aluminium plug. It took me a long time to even find the problem. it must be somewhere in the first 10 pages of this topic. with the plug removed the idle stall was history and running nicely ever since.
Considering water and debris. The vent is very much hidden under the og 1957 dry element air cleaner. and I have not experienced any trouble whatsoever. Like I said the og vent cap design also leaves the vent wide open in idle, that means if the car is not running and parked, it's always open as well. I have not experience any significant fuel fumes from the semi-open vent. Also the fuel bowl float, is flat on top and nearly touches the vent opening. it leaves a very narrow gap, maybe 1/32 or so  around the vent hole, the float covers the full area inside the hole. There is no pressure in the bowl. So I reckon it will not smell any different, than any 4bbl carb that is venting the bowl to inside the air horn. It would smell the same from the air cleaner snout.

My main problem here certainly are seals disintegrating from getting in touch with ethanol fuel.
I may want to pull the bowl and check for the power valve seal. I reckon if that seal was going bad, it would be running awfully rich.

edit, this is when I originally corrected the problem with the plugged bowl vent (7 years ago)
Quotehttps://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=6705.315
#7
Project Builds / Re: 1957 Ford Country Sedan mo...
Last post by hiball3985 - 2024-04-30 14:32
Quote from: gasman826 on 2024-04-29 18:01With the bowl vent cap and linkage missing, you will always smell gas not to mention debris and water in the bowl.
X2, thats the first thing I noticed
#8
Yes, when the fluid starts I assume it is clear of air and close the bleeder.  If the pedal doesn't feel right I enlist the aid of the wife to operate the pedal.  Only had one of the six or so I've finished not work as expected.  Good luck.
#9
Yes and No Gary.....you may not remember, but exactly said bowl vent was the main problem maker in the beginning ( ca 7 years ago....oops, time flies). My carb is a replacement Holley and it came with a plug in that fuel bowl vent.
It always had an idle stall. After investigating the og shop manual I found that a 57 V8 Ford application Holley 2100, does have a complicated linkage for a moving bowl vent cap. it is activated by the throttle shaft and will pull off in idle to remedy a curbside stall effect. so that bowl vent is usually open @ idle anyways, and there hasn't been a problem with my solution of just removing the plug and leave as is. it is well hidden under the air cleaner.
The fuel smell developed much later (last year or so), and the seal washers that I replaced are on the high pressure side of the fuel pump and fuel bowl needle. So it was really getting wet all the time, let alone at higher rpms with full fuel pump pressure....I just replaced those seals yesterday and will have to see and check back the next days/weeks.
#10
Project Builds / Re: 1957 Ford Country Sedan mo...
Last post by gasman826 - 2024-04-29 18:01
With the bowl vent cap and linkage missing, you will always smell gas not to mention debris and water in the bowl.