Window channel run replacement ?

[johns2000]

Hey Guy's

  It's been awhile since I've been here, long story but need some help. I'm getting ready to replace the window channel runs and vent window seals and seem to remember articles, video on this from either a parts supplier or ? If any can steer me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it.

John

[clusterbuster]

I bought all my run channels. fuzzies etc. from Restoration Specialities & Supply in Wimber, Pennsylvania. Phone 814 467 9842.

[Randyh]

I also bought the fuzzies and window channels from RSSI.  I used RSSI part number Y630P for the glass runs.  It is very difficult to bend the glass runs without kinking, make yourself patterns out of plywood to help with bending.  The also help when you attach the clips  Also check Obsolete and Classic Auto Parts for the front window division bar run.

[clusterbuster]

I now remember that I took my channels out and fastened them on flat thick cardboard and sent them out to them to make for me. They sent the new ones back nicely formed, and I installed them.

[johns2000]

Thanks guy's, wasn't there a really good visual instruction guide on this somewhere?

[gasman826]

Since the OEM fasteners are troublesome to reuse, I use epoxy (JB WELD(slow not fast set)) to glue replacement channels in place.  I still use mechanical fasteners (# 6 pan head machine screws with lock nuts) on the lower, division bar bracket.  The upper/rear channels are also glued to the rear channel bracket and then glued to the door frame.  I also glue the inner, anti rattle whiskers to the garnish molding.  A generous application of dish soap to the edges of the glass make it slide in much easier and washes off.  I've used this method four times with no issues.  If the channels need to be removed, they are worn out or the car needs paint.  Sounds like a lot of glue but if the factory had todays adhesives sixty years ago, they would have used them.  Better than screws, staples, or pop rivets...don't show...glass does not hit fasteners.

I install the rear channel bracket to the replacement channel before bending the replacement.  It's just easier.  I use a couple of 3/8" fender washers that are the same thickness of the glass and the same radius of the window opening corner.  I clamp the washers in the corner of the bench vice.  I adjust a set of the wide jaw, tin work, Vise Grips to the outer thickness of the replacement channel.  I gently rotate the channel 90 degrees around the washers while keeping the Vise Grips over the outer edge of the channel.  A quick set of dies that are laying around the shop and a nice corner for your new channel.  Test fit it and mark the excess cut.  Remove and wrap tape around the cut area.  I cut with a thin Metabo disc in a right angle grinder...slow to keep the heat down.  Clean, glue, and clamp.  Perfect!!!

[johns2000]

Thanks Gasman

Since the OEM fasteners are troublesome to reuse, I use epoxy (JB WELD(slow not fast set)) to glue replacement channels in place.  I still use mechanical fasteners (# 6 pan head machine screws with lock nuts) on the lower, division bar bracket.  The upper/rear channels are also glued to the rear channel bracket and then glued to the door frame.  I also glue the inner, anti rattle whiskers to the garnish molding.  A generous application of dish soap to the edges of the glass make it slide in much easier and washes off.  I've used this method four times with no issues.  If the channels need to be removed, they are worn out or the car needs paint.  Sounds like a lot of glue but if the factory had todays adhesives sixty years ago, they would have used them.  Better than screws, staples, or pop rivets...don't show...glass does not hit fasteners.

I install the rear channel bracket to the replacement channel before bending the replacement.  It's just easier.  I use a couple of 3/8" fender washers that are the same thickness of the glass and the same radius of the window opening corner.  I clamp the washers in the corner of the bench vice.  I adjust a set of the wide jaw, tin work, Vise Grips to the outer thickness of the replacement channel.  I gently rotate the channel 90 degrees around the washers while keeping the Vise Grips over the outer edge of the channel.  A quick set of dies that are laying around the shop and a nice corner for your new channel.  Test fit it and mark the excess cut.  Remove and wrap tape around the cut area.  I cut with a thin Metabo disc in a right angle grinder...slow to keep the heat down.  Clean, glue, and clamp.  Perfect!!!