57fordsforever.com

Is there a specific Ford AOD transmission (small bell housing) that coupled behind a 302 crate motor, will fit a 57 Ford WITHOUT changing anything to the firewall/trans tunnel?

Yes, the AODs that come from any 302 Mustang/T-Bird and many six banger Birds and Cougars.  You will need to modify the cross member.

The transmission mount is a 2001 Explorer 2wd.  The hole in the cross member need to be widened out toward the edge for it to bolt in.  There may be a mount that will bolt up without having to change the mounting holes, I just happened to have that mount.

I have one similar to yours, the studs are a little wider than the holes in the cross member, but I think it came out of a Mustang, don't know what year, I'll take a pic.  The big question for me is, will a 302 AOD trans fit in the tunnel on a 57 Ford without making any alterations to the floor/tunnel?  Body & paint as you can see is a done deal so I can't make any changes there.

Here's the trans mount with measurements....

Yes , the aod for a 302 will fit without any modifications to the floor or tunnel . I am also using the trans mount from a 91 mustang.

Thanks, I'll try and find a good price somewhere.

I like using old OEM parts to do upgrades.  For some time I have wanted to upgrade the Raunch Wagon FOM to a COM.  After much research, I have resolved to do the AOD upgrade.  At first look, FOM and COM are both Borg-Warner and the COM was the second generation Ford automatic with many physical similarities.  With the COM advantages over the FOM, automatic shifts through all three gears, passing gear, and more adjustable shift points, the COM appeared to be an easy.  The FOM bell housing will bolt to the COM main case but the torque converter is different.  A later Y-Block flexplate/ring gear was available for '60-62 but are rare/expensive as well the torque converter.  Add in the cost of these two parts, starter, a good COM rebuild and beef up, the cost spun out of control.  So, I have decided to go in another direction and upgrade to an AOD.  The cost will be competitive but more benefits like a more modern starter, better shifting qualities, and over drive.  I am looking at Y-block to AOD adapters and alone shifting options for the AOD.  I have already rounded up the parts to upgrade to power steering using all '64 Galaxie PS parts with '64 gear box and '64 steering column.  The Raunch Wagon is already laid up in the garage for the winter with complete tear down of both doors for new glass, soft trim, and track, roller, lock, and latch cleaning, lube and replace.  The engine and trans are out for leaks, bearing check, cam, lifters, valve springs, intake, and distributor tuneup.  If there is time, some floor repairs and outer rockers.  Winter might be short this year.

Gasman,

Did you do your AOD transmission conversion?  I am considering doing that for my car.  I'm pretty sure I can get a completely rebuilt AOD with torque converter locally for about $1100.  I've only found one supplier for an adapter plate to go between the AOD and the Engine, it comes with a new starter and I think the cost was about $850.  In addition to the big parts there are some shift linkage items, changes to the drive shaft and perhaps a new spedo gear.

I would like to hear about your experience with your project.

I think this would be my last major job on this car, expect maybe to install a machine gun for a hood ornament.

Rich

I did an AOD swap.  I researched about every alternative and found no good conversion.  After pulling the 292 to replace all the freeze plugs, rear main, and add some performance upgrades, I found cracks in both heads.  With vintage (and new) performance equipment being so expensive and the AOD adapter is pricey too, I bought a low mileage 351W much cheaper than I could repair the Y-block.  I had grown frustrated trying to keep the car originally equipped and I wanted overdrive.  Since the AOD was replacing the FOM, the radiator had the transmission cooler.  The Windsor motor and AOD bolted in like it belonged there.  The cross member does need to be modified but it needs modification anyway.  I started the conversion on the cheap but lost my way almost immediately.  After Ford Racing Aluminum heads, Muthr Thumpr roller cam, roller rockers, Stealth intake, MSD distributor and 6AL CD, Melling oil pump, Ford Racing roller chain, Moroso road race oil pan, Hedman headers, topped off with Holley HP 650 DP upgrades to the engine meant the AOD wasn't going to cut it.  So the I upgraded the AOD with 4R70 gear set, all the big clutch packs, red frictions, best servo, bigger tail housing, LENCO valve body, additional cooler and 3000 stall B&M converter and topped off with aluminum drive shaft with 1350 joints into fresh rear with 3.89 gear, Trac-Loc, Daytona support, QA1 shocks, and DragMaster style traction bars.

The drive shaft will need modifications.
The steering column will need modifications.
The AOD requires throttle valve (TV) cable.

I freshened up the engine and transmission last winter.  The transmission needed nothing (after 3 summers of hard shifts).  The engine needed nothing but got treated to a 408 stroker kit.  550 HP on the engine dyno!!!!

Yikes!  Are the lug nuts all that's left of the original car?

My engine was rebuild 25 years and 10,000 miles ago.  I've put on the 10,000 miles in the 9 years I've had the car.  (The guy that rebuilt the engine and did a lot of work on the car died and it was in storage when I bought it.)  I'm okay with the 292, but I have really been thinking about the AOD, for several reasons.  It will start out in 1st gear for a little more pep and it will cruise in overdrive for a little more mileage/less wear on the engine and I will have one thing less thing to worry about failing with a rebuild tranny.

You mention mods to the steering column.  Other than minor stuff for the shifter to work properly, is there anything else?

Rich

Shift control has always been an issue with the FordOMatic.  The FOM is a three speed with only two shift positions in the steering column.  The AOD is a four speed.  The '57 column will work if you only want to select over-drive and drive with no manual shift for 1st and 2nd gears.  If that is OK, then the original column will work.

I wanted to select gears or go full automatic.  I also did not want to go with an aftermarket floor shifter.  I had a '64 Galaxie parts car so I swapped in the entire steering from the idler arm to the horn ring.  This change upgraded to power steering, better steering box, and a three speed display and gear selector.  The LENCO valve body upgrades the AOD to full manual shift or full automatic.  The LENCO has a solenoid added to control fourth gear.  I have a switch for race mode with no fourth gear or full auto with overdrive.  The swap like it belonged there and looks OEM.

The '64 parts car also donated its transmission cross member that beefs up the cross member, works for the AOD, and makes exhaust clearance.

Thanks for the response.  I think that I will stick with the stock column.  I figured that with that setup I would only be able to make two selections for forward gears. 

My list of upgrades is quite a bit different than yours.  Wilwood front disk brake kit, Borgeland (sp) power steering, Vintage Air, GM12SI alternator, radial tires and Holley EFI. The car looks stock, but not really, and of course, it's no hot rod.  I shifted into "R" for race and it went backwards. 

Anyway, thanks for your comments.  This will likely be a spring project.

Rich

...did I mention Vintage Air and radio.

You might want to look at a Ford style 3G alternator...very common, works very well, supports the OEM GEN light.

The A/C compressor displaced the generator, but the same mounting bracket for the new compressor was designed to fit the GM alternator (I don't know if the Ford alternator is the same physical layout.)  The GM alternator works fine in the system and it also works with the dash light, no longer need a voltage regulator.  The only issue for me is that the alternator does not kick in until I hit about 800 RPM.  Once I rev it up a little it continues to generate power even though the RPM's drop to about 550-600 at idle.

That initial rev-up to get the GM style alternator to kick in is fairly common.  One of my early conversions to 'one wire' has that characteristic.  I just finished upgrading from 6 groove to 8 groove serpentine belt due to slippage with 140 amp alternator.

The GM one wire has a nasty habit of the isolation diode starting to leak.  Still works fine but will pull the battery down.  The Ford 2G and 3G are very good replacements.  The 2G and the small 3G will bolt in to replace any 1G externally regulated unit.  All three work with the GEN light.  The nasty little issue with the 2G harness catching fire can be corrected by using an after market plug assembly.  They are vastly improved over the stock assembly and eliminate that threat.

Have a 2G in the 36 because there is just not enough real estate for the larger 3G (that and I didn't want to spend the bucks for the small 3G).  Been working fine, keeps a solid 13.6 volts on the system with the large cooling fan running.   Both are easy to rebuild, cost for rebuilding is around $50 (depending on source) and both will take a V-belt pulley if desired.

My car had factory air, so I have a 3 sheave pulley on the engine.  The alternator never slipped on the single belt, but the A/C compressor did.  So I added a double pulley to the alternator, since that is the unit that is adjustable for tightening the belt over the compressor.  With two belts there is no longer any slippage.  My PS pump is on the third slot on the pulley so all is good with what I have to power up.  I am not having any charging problems, so I'm not currently planning to make any changes. (The GM alternator has been in the car for 8 years and I have put on a little less than 10k in that time.) But, do you know if the mounting layout is the same for the GM and Ford units?

Rich

Can't be that luck. 

Rich no idea about putting a Ford unit in the place (bolt in) of the GM.  Can't imagine it would be that difficult though.  Always started with the Ford stuff.  Even put a 1G in my Bug Eye in place of "The Prince of Darkness" unit along with a complete re-wire!

It's mostly about spacing the larger bolt for belt alignment.




old picture...just changed to 8 groove belt

When I got the A/C unit, it noted that the bracket would fit the GM alternator, so, that's what I did.  I found a sketch that someone had on the internet for wiring the unit so the dash light would work.  I hooked it up and never gave it another thought. 

Before I attack something, I try to do my research on potential problems and get comments from others that may have done the same project.  I think I'm an adequate shade tree mechanic, but certainly no expert when it comes to making upgrades or swapping our components.  I need to piggyback on the knowledge of the guys that have more knowledge or experience so as to avoid doing stupid stuff.

Along that line, I did notice that someone had mentioned that the flex plate for the AOD has balance weighs on it and perhaps when used with a 292 Y-Block, this is not necessary.  I assume that these weights need to be removed, correct?  Or, is there a flex plate with no weights available?

Rich

The conversion adapters that I looked at either came with a flex plate or recommended the flex plate to use.  OEM AOD flex plates have two different externally balances as well and ring gear tooth count and the Y-Block is internally balanced so a Windsor flex plate will not work.  Any Y-Block flex plate should be zero balanced.   Before buying a flex plate and/or torque convertor, make sure they are compatible with the same convertor to flex plate bolt pattern.  One other install caution (anytime an automatic is installed), make sure there is some convertor end play before tightening the convertor to flex plate bolts.

I have stupid tested these recommendations so you don't have to.

Thanks for the comments.

Shortly I will be putting together a shopping list with specs for the components.  I don't view this swap as a big job, so I want to get all the parts together before I start.  Mods to the cross member I can do and drive drive shaft will have to go to a local drive train specialists that I've used before.

I was wondering, how much did you have to shorten the drive shaft?

Rich

tossed the OEM drive shaft and used '05 Crown Vic police drive shaft.  Aluminum, 1350 joints, correct length with long rear yoke and Daytona pinion support and long tailshaft AOD and 4R70 long tail housing.


BUT, you are using Y-Block with AOD adapter and both could affect the driveshaft length!!

Driveshaft inf:..........You guys are talking 2 different wheelbases .Rich has a longer wheelbase Fairlane, Gary has a shorter wheelbase Custom. I've always assumed the Custom driveshafts were 2" shorter than a Fairlane. Am I correct that the driveshaft dimensions are going to be different? I've asked about this before, but never got an answer. They have to be, right?
I've wondered about using the aluminum driveshaft in a Fairlane..It may have to be lengthened??

I'm thinking if Rich was lucky enough to need to shorten his Fairlane driveshaft 2", he could do it by simply using a driveshaft from a Custom platform.
In my custom with a similar 4R70w tranny, I used the aluminum driveshaft out of the Mark VIII donor car with no mods. The driveshaft was 1" short of being ideal, but that was taken care of when I redid the differential and changed the pinion yoke to a 1" taller hd yoke ($80 ish). The new yoke was very close to matching the MKVIII universal joint. I think I just needed to change to larger dia. ujoint end caps. As I said, I don't think I could have done it that simply if mine were a Fairlane.

Rich..I'd wait on getting the driveshaft until the rest of the installation is done. Here in Amarillo, we can get new driveshafts made or modified in just a few days. I'm sure Denver has the same available. Just have your yokes ready. You may want to consider the hd pinion yoke even if you don't need the taller version.  It uses a beefier ujoint than the oem.

My driveshaft guy told me it was impractical to lengthen an aluminum drive shaft. Since he didn't stock aluminum tubing the cost would be prohibitive. Sounded good to me?

BTW my Custom had a 302/AOD when I bought it. I think it had the original driveshaft but it seemed to me to be a little too short. The crossmember was very crudely fabricated but it worked...

agreed.......if it needs lengthening, best way to go is a totally new shaft.

Rich,

No worry, I won't modify the drive shaft until the transmission is mounted in the car and an accurate measurement can be made.  As to a stronger U-Joint, this car had 212 HP out of the factory, that's about 176 HP in Denver.  I don't think I need this upgrade.  We have Drivetrain Industries here and they are not too far away.  They can easily do this for me.

Now, the questions about modifying an aluminum drive shaft, is that is what is on this car?  I have had the driveshaft in my hands before, but I always thought it was steel.  I did have a new front yoke installed years ago and then had it rebalanced.  I watched the process and when they spot welded on weights, it seemed like they were working on steel.

I was looking for dimensions for the Fordomatic and have not found anything, it's on my lift now so I can just measure it.  I did find that an AOD is 20.5" but that seems pretty short.

Rich

A lot of newer cars use aluminum driveshafts, lower rotating mass. Older cars use steel driveshafts including '57 Fords and cars that would have hade an AOD originally. Aluminum is a performance upgrade, not at all required in your case.

Agreed..our oem driveshafts definetly were steel. Aside from being a performance upgrade, sometimes it's a lot simpler and cheaper to go the aluminum route since most of the newer tranny's are going to have an aluminum driveshaft mated with it anyways. A readily available and cheap thing. Not sure if the oem driveshaft front yoke/spline will mate to an AOD.

Rich,

I am assuming that the yoke will not mate to the AOD, but the place that put the yoke on for me before will likely have what I want on the shelf and for a fair price.  I think they charged me about $100 to replace the yoke and balance the drive shaft, but that was about 6 years ago.

Rich

I am thinking that the yoke may fit ???

I  found what fits an AOD > https://www.actionmachineinc.com/collections/step-2-slip-yokes/transmission-model_aod+transmission-make_ford

And, I still have the yoke that was replaced on my driveshaft years ago, and, I know where it is.  I measured it.  It's almost the same for the AOD, only small difference on I.D..

My measured dimensions are in parentheses.

    Spline/Hole Outside Diameter = 1.220  (1.202")
    Spline count... 28  (28)
    Series = 1310
    Lock up style = OUTSIDE Snap Ring   (same)
    Length to center of u-joint... Dimension #1 =  6 inches  (5.25")
    Barrel Diameter... Dimension #2 = 1.500 inches  (1.498")
    Barrel Length... Dimension #3 =  4.250 inches  (4.0")
    U-joint cap diameter... Dimension #4 = 1.062 inches  (1.063")
    U-joint width... Dimension #5 = 3.219 inches  (3.470")

I measured the spline hole diameter (actually, the I.D. of the hole) as 1.202", above it says 1.220" (as the O.D. of the spline shaft.)  That makes it .018" tight (.009" on the radius.  I measured twice at 90 degrees on the dia., it's the same.)  Maybe works?  Of course, this is the old one, the replacement may be slightly different.

Rich

More information on the AOD transplant.

https://transmissionadapters.com/collections/ford/products/ford-y-block-to-ford-aod

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0021/2415/2950/files/FO10003_-_Ford_Y_block_to_AOD.pdf?11953228212855010996

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/article/ford-aod-overdrive-transmission/

Well, I've pulled the trigger on this project.  Just ordered the adapter kit and I've made a deal for a guy to sell me an AOD core and rebuild it for me.  He has a new planetary gear assembly and a new valve body that he is including for the rebuild.  And, he will give me a whopping $50 for my Ford-O-Matic.  Not much for the old unit, but I am not a transmission collector, so out it goes.

It seems I read that an Explorer rear transmission mount will work for this project.  Can anyone confirm what year to use for this?

Photos and a video to follow.

Rich

I used the 2000 Explorer 2WD rear transmission mount.  Need to widen the holes in the cross member slightly.

That's also what I used, just not sure if an AOD is same mounting location as AODE. Mine is actually a 4R70W attached to the 4.6, but I know for sure it's the same mount/case as AODE. As bill said, very slight widening of the holes.
I'm curious with all these improvements you're making, if you're second guessing your decision to pass on that nos 4.6 dohc you had a chance at?

Rich,

No, I am not second guessing the 4.6 engine.  I am happy with what I have.  My upgrades are mostly having to do with safety and drive-ability.  I don't crave a hotrod or a high HP vintage car.  I have my 2002 C-5 Corvette to scratch that itch. 

The projects that I take on are usually within my abilities.  I view this transmission upgrade project as a relatively easy thing.  I've done my homework and piggybacked on other peoples knowledge too.  I don't feel like rebuilding a transmission myself, mainly because my transmission experience is quite limited and never on an automatic.  I can swap the unit out, mount the adapter and get the drive shaft modified by a local shop and get a new speedo cable from another local shop.  I've even watched several videos on the process.  I've also got some standby labor to hoist the unit onto a steel leg table I have.  I'll get the transmission on the table then lower the car down and slide it into position.  Done it before.  I don't have a transmission jack, but I do have a lift.

You are welcome to come over and supervise.  I'll supply the cold beer.

Blue blood, thanks for the info on the transmission mount.  I'll get one coming.

Rich

Supervise, haha........I may want to come over and ask a bunch of questions.
correction..........the tranny mount I used was 2003 Crown Vic. May be the same as the explorer mount Bill suggested, or may be a difference in AOD vs 4R70W.
Mine may have been overkill, but I added a pretty stout right angle piece to the crossmember after cutting and filling in like Bill did in his posted pic. Here's a link to what I did: http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3750.135  it starts at the bottom of that page. Funny.....note the top post on that page was addressed to you, 7 years ago.
Suggestion..........you won't be able to have the tranny crossmember in place when your figuring if or how much clearance needs to be cut in. I put bolts in the front crossmember holes on the frame and pulled a string tight, then did the same on the crossmember. You probably already had that figured out.

OEM speedometer cable will work with the AOD.  The gear might need changing.

PIC:  Since cheap transmission jacks are too short and shop storage space is precious, I ditched the transmission jack and put the jack top on the end of my cherry picker.  Works great, two tools in one for storage.  I made adapters to also use this rig to install and remove 9" pigs.

Gasman,

I had never considered that the OEM speedometer cable would work.  I've got a small hole in my cable sheath so I will get a new one anyway.  At low speed, the cable jumps around and reads with a 20 MPH swing on the dial.  Once I get up to about 40, it's smooth.

I just paid the down payment for the rebuild of the transmission and it will be ready to pick up on the 26th.   

On thing that I haven't thought too much about is the filler tube.  The unit I bought does not have a filler tube.  And, I don't know if the original would fit anyway.  Is everyone using one of the Lokar kits for this?  If so, which one?  I have not asked if he had a tube, but if an original one will work.  I will see if there is one laying around in the yard.

Also, when I did some research on fluid for the AOD, I saw that Mercon V was specified for at least one of the places I found.  The tranny shop said that Dextron III is perfered.  Any comments on this?

Rich

I changed to a Lokar when I replaced my engine last year. Prior to that I used the stock filler/dipstick tube, but what you may run into is the stock tube probably bolted to whatever engine the AOD was attached to, and unlikely to fit the 312 without mods, if at all. The Lokar is a nice unit, just don't follow their installation instructions and you'll be fine. It's flexible, I bolted mine to the firewall. Which one? I'll have to look......I don't remember there being choices.

Rich,

I know that there are at least choices on length.  I was wondering how you "calibrate" the dipstick so that it reads accurately?

Rich

And I think the mentioned firewall mount I used was one of the design/type options. As far as calibrations.....these are made for specific transmisions, so the dipstick is already calibrated. I did compare the oem dipstick to the lokar as far as how far the end of the dipstick protruded past the seat, and they were the same.
The installation instructions tell you to install the seal on to the dipstick housing making sure it is all the way on. Aint gonna happen! the seal is like a tophat shape, thin walled with ribs.......kinda like a ribbed condom, lol. When you try to install it with that seal on the dipstick already as per instructions, the seal want to bunch up and prevent the dipstick from going down all the way and seating. Spent 1/2 hour in an awkward position trying to do this 8 or 10 times. Finally, I pulled the seal off the dipstick and installed it into the tranny's hole for the dipstick. It went in and seated....took 30 seconds! I did pass that info on to Lokar, they said it made sense, they'd check it out to verify and maybe change the installation instructions.

Rich,

Thanks, I finally found the dipstick for the AOD.  It seems like a very small hole to pour three gallons of fluid into the transmission, but I also saw the adapter for adding fluid.

In about 90 minutes work I have the transmission within one bolt of removing it from the car (not counting the two bolts still holding in the cross member, they are east to remove.)  It's the top passenger side bolt.  I've had it out before, but it sure looks like a bear to get to. 

With a little luck, I'll be back on the road in a couple of weeks.

When removing transmission with OEM, steel tube dipstick, remove the dipstick first.  When installing, dipstick goes in last.  If using a flexible dipstick tube, install first and remove last.  Back in the day, Ford transmissions had a little, plastic shipping plug with o-ring in the dipstick hole to keep foreign material out.  During factory assembly, the model appropriate tube was selected and shoved into the hole pushing the plug into the pan to bounce around forever.  Unscrupulous transmission shops would drop the pan for 'inspection' to share with the owner the volume of crap in the bottom of the pan.  Upon seeing a loose part rolling around in the bottom of the pan, customers would immediately be shocked into needing a rebuild.  I always liked seeing the plug in the pan so I knew I was dealing with an unmolested core.

Dipstick calibration:  with the pan off, install the dipstick tube and stick.  The fluid level line should be even with the bottom of the transmission case where the pan bolts.  This means the fluid full mark is at the top of the transmission pan.  Most performance builders recommend up to a quart over full is better than under full.  Anything to increase the volume of fluid in the system is a good thing.

Do you think that is also is true for oil pans?

Rich...not sure what you meant by..." I finally found the dipstick for the AOD."..you found an oem, or you found the Lokar aod dipstick.

Quote from: fdlrc on 2020-02-22 08:30
Do you think that is also is true for oil pans?

Engine oil?  NO

On the tranny dipstick calibration........aside from having what appeared to have the correct protrusion beyond the seal surface, My transmission was never drained when I replaced/ pulled the engine, I did have a small amount of leakage, but not much. When I installed the Lokar, I checked the level it was showing, and it was indicating just a tad low, just as it should have.

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2020-02-22 09:12
Rich...not sure what you meant by..." I finally found the dipstick for the AOD."..you found an oem, or you found the Lokar aod dipstick.

It's for the Lokar kit.  I did not scroll down far enough on the Lokar website to see the AOD dipstick.  I did notice on the website they show the filler adapter on the oil dipstick kit, but not on the transmission kit.  I also looked at their instruction sheet for the transmission kit and it shows the filler attachment.  I left a message with them to tell me if it is included.  It must be as I can not find it as a separate item.  Did you get the filler attachment with your transmission dipstick kit?

Rich

Ref calibration of the dipstick.  Wouldn't simply putting the required amount of fluid into the transmission and checking the level show the proper level on the dipstick?  With a newly rebuilt transmission, wouldn't it be empty to begin with and require the full amount of fluid?  Idk how one would go about getting the line marked on the dipstick to line up with the fill level of the fluid.

Those upper transmission bolts are accessable with long extensions and swivel sockets from the rear.  As I recall a 30" extension is required.

Yes, mine came with the filler "adapter". I keep it in my traveling toolbox......the adapter is piece of tubing and small funnel.

I'll be using the Lokar kit for the AOD, so it's a no brainer on the dipstick.  As to the upper bolts, I did get them out.  Some things are more fun than other things.

Rich, thanks for the info on the filler adapter.

I think I'll pull the rear axles now so I can get the differential gear set out and replace a leaking gasket.  There is always more fun to be had.

Rich

Ask your transmission builder to confirm the full mark.  The builder would be happy to check it...he's guaranteeing it.  Use the fluid he recommends.  I use from 1/2 to a quart of fluid during a build.  I usually add fluid to the torque converter before installing.  Bigger radiator, cooling lines and auxiliary cooler may take another 1/2 quart.  For light duty driving, a quart or two plus or minus may not make a big difference. 

Since you are going to pull the pig, consider a ratio change.

Good point Gary, with the overdrive tranny being added. I'm running 3.50s in mine and very happy with it. Plenty of pickup and good economy. Wouldn't hurt to check what ratio the AOD equipt cars had. I will say I do take mine out of OD frequently, but that's due, I think, to the computer programmed for whatever the Mark VIII had for rear end ratio. Can the AOD be "manually" taken out of overdrive? I think if I was living in Colorado, I'd rarely have it in overdrive unless I had the computer reprogrammed. With that irrelevant info said, I don't know how an AOD works, so you may not even have the same shifting issue I have on hills. I seem to remember you DO have hills in Colorado.

Gasman,

I ran out of gas this afternoon.  I have not attacked the diff. yet.  There were two different gear ratios available; standard 3.1:1 and optional 3.56:1.  I don't know what I have, but very likely the 3.1:1.  At this time, I am not going to change the ratio.  My leak is not serious, but a while back I got an email from Rockauto, they had some stuff on sale for my car. I bought the gaskets for the diff. and some other stuff that I did not need very bad, but it was cheap.

As to the fluid level in the transmission, Since I am getting a dipstick made for my unit, I am not worried that I will have the wrong amount of fluid in it.  The builder says to use Dextron III in this unit.  On the internet, I've seen recommendations for Mercon V too.  However those that recommend Mercon V do note that it was not available when these transmissions were built.

Rich is right, we do have a few hills in Colorado.  Last summer, I drove the car over two passes to go to a vintage RR celebration.  The road was pretty steep in some areas, but I was able to keep up with traffic for the most part.  I did average 17.5 MPG on the round trip and was very satisfied with that.  I think the EFI boosted the mileage 1 - 2 MPG at cruise.  I am assuming that the transmission will be smart enough to find the right gear for road conditions. 

Rich

Mine started out very stock with 292 and FOM.  The ratio was 3.56 but it is a Ranch Wagon.  The 3.56 was too low even with 26" tires and buzzed the motor too much at 70 mph.  Any cruiser with direct drive(no overdrive) and no lockup converter should target a ration of 3.00 or smaller especially if 70 mph is the target speed. 

Comparing other combinations is worthless without adding tire diameter into the equation.  With the AOD's fourth gear (OD...and yes it is a 4th gear and NOT a lockup torque converter), I started with 28+" tires and 3.00 gear.  This gear was way too small.  At 55 mph, the engine was only running 1900 RPMs in 4th gear and chugging due to too much cam.  Late '80s GT Mustangs ran 3.73 gears with short, low profile tires (like 24").  So I changed to 3.89 gear for a couple of years and was quite pleased with 2600 RPMs at 70-75 mph.  I just changed to a 4.11 gear to get a little more 'shoulders pinned to the seat' takeoffs at the cost of a couple hundred RPMs at 70 mph.

The number one issue with AODs is controlling the shifts.  AODs have a tendency to upshift early and downshift late with little manual control.  In stock configurations and mild cruising, the shifts are acceptable.  If one wants a little performance thrill from time to time, AOD shifting is the typical FORD automatic shift...hold 1st gear by holding shifter in LO, shift to DR momentarily and back to LO to hold second gear, back to DR for 3rd gear and no control for 4th gear so it shifts whenever.  In DR, mine shifts typical AOD up early and down late.  With a LENTECH valve body and a '64 Galaxie steering column (LO, DR2 and DR1 selections), a electric switch has been added to the dash.  The switch is to a servo in the valve body.  In performance mode, the line pressure is increased and the transmission shifts in automatic or manual mode.  I can manually up and down shift the first three gears with fourth locked out(flip the switch for fourth).  This is about as fun driving as an automatic can get.

With your mods, it sounds close to like what you'd have with an AODE or 4R70W. Mine could be left in od when in the mountains, just needs some practice with the throttle. Way more than just a few hundred rpm on mine though.......more like 6 or 700 additional at 65.
Thanks for the "how it works"!

The AODE, 4R70 and 4R75 can be shifted with an aftermarket controller with some having tuneable shift options...much easier than making mechanical changes to AOD shift points.

I am using an AOD, so mechanical shifting is my only option.  There is no computer on this car to control the AODE.

I did see that Lokar has a shift cable for this unit, but I am hopeful that the original shifter will work.

The Ford-O-Matic is a longer transmission than the AOD, I will have to have the drive shaft extended in the range of 2" - 4".

Rich

That is a wealth of info you guys are putting up here ! Thank you very much to everybody.
I also have the Bendtsen Speed Gems adapter kit and several AODs but haven't found the time nor the need to replace the factory 3spd Fordo in my 57 4dr wgn. For me the only reason to replace the Fordomatic would also be what Rick said, really not being up to a rebuild myself, and where to find the parts or a pro shop over here? in addition to that the AOD offers just great cruising rpms for the average cruiser car with keeping the og rearend and ratio. I am really looking forward to see how this project works out, please keep us posted !

As far as which fluid mentioned in the earlier post I would use what the rebuilder suggested, the type of fluid depends on what friction materials were used but double check with him.

Having this trans will also free up a lot of HP  :003: that the FORD-O-MATIC robs  :005:.

When I worked in a transmission shop we used Dextron in everything.  As I understood it the only difference was slipperyness. Ford prefered a crisper shift hence the Ford spec oil, Type F.  And I doubt that the cheap rebuilder kits cared much about clutch materials.  Everything worked fine.

The transmission is torn down and was in pretty good condition, but it is still getting the rebuild kit plus the planetary gear unit and the valve body.

My latest measurement on the driveshaft indicates that the difference is 3/4" longer with the new transmission.  If I am right, I am going to look for a longer front yoke rather than cutting and welding on the existing drive shaft.  That does take into account the 2" thick adapter plate.

Another option if need be is a taller yoke for the differential. I know 1" taller is readily available, not sure of other sizes, but you'll also end up using a combination u-joint on the driveshaft.

I think I've already found a longer yoke.  It may not be necessary to use a combination u-joint.  At this point, I am just going to wait until I have it installed to make a final measurement. 

I've got all of the parts I've ordered and the rebuilt transmission.

This evening, I carved the relieve area on the bell housing for the starter gear and then mounted the adapter plate, crankshaft extension and flex plate.  The adapter kit is a beautiful piece of work.  Fit is perfect too. 

While working under the car I noticed two rubber plugs in the transmission hump.  These line up with the top two bolts on the bell housing.  I wish I knew that a couple of day s ago. 

Now, to install transmission to adapter plate bolts (6) is still going to be tough.  Those top two bolts don't line up perfectly with the access holes in the transmission hump, but I am going to have to try to use them anyway.  The 2" added thickness of the adapter plate pushes the bolts very close to the hump.  I'm going to have to get a socket to hex adapter to reach through those holes to tighten the bolts.  The lower 4 bolts should not be a problem.  In my research no one has mentioned a physical interference between the AOD and the floor of the car, so I guess this will work out.

My latest measurement indicates that the AOD + adapter plate = 35" and the original transmission = 34-3/4".  I can't imagine that 1/4" is critical.  The driveshaft should work without modification. 

Tomorrow is my volunteer day at the Colorado RR Museum, but I'll be back to work on this Friday afternoon.  I hope to have the transmission in the car with a temporary support on the cross member.

Rich

Slide the transmission in place and let the engine/transmission assembly hang down a little in the rear, the top two bolts will be a straight shot with a couple of long extensions.  I also make a couple of "alignment pins" to help guild it in place (working on jack stands).  Cut the heads off a couple of 2" long bolts, put a screw driver slot in them and put them in the second hole up.

Last but not least.  The AOD converter has three notches to be fully seated.  If you get the transmission up to the block/adapter and the converter is tight against the flex plate you need to pull it back off and try the converter install again.  When pulled up tight the converter and flex plate should have around 1/16" to 3/16" spacing between them.  Installing the converter nuts and washers will pull them together with ease.

The adjustment of the TV cable is essential to the survival of the AOD.  The FOM is controlled by TV input using another name and linkage rather than a cable.  There are several methods for correct adjustment.  There is the FORD method, the Lokar method, and the pressure method.  I've tried these and use the pressure method.  I just hook pressure gauge and set to 4-5 psi.

If you are using the Lokar cable, it is NOT mentioned where to attach the top end of the cable.  It is NOT a 1-to-1 ratio with the throttle cable.  Sonnax (and maybe others) make an adapter:   AOD TV Cable Corrector Kit Holley Carburetors Sonnax AS4-04K

GGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.

I just spent an hour trying to put in the transmission.  Guess what?  I have interference with the transmission tunnel.  No one else has had this issue?

I put some masking tape across the top and tried again to see if I could get a mark, as you can see, I do have a mark.  I need go get about a full inch up so I can move the transmission forward.

Rich

I just found another interference.  My shift lever sticks up and hits a corner on the floor pan, I know some levers stick down.  I will contact my builder to see if he can swap that part out.

I took a hammer to the ridge where I have the interference on the tunnel.  I've improve the problem, but with the shift lever hitting now, I am not sure if I've given enough clearance yet.

I'm beginning to wonder if anyone has done exactly what I am trying to do.

Rich

I think I was going thru basically the same issue when I replaced my engine last year, only in reverse. Not sure how relevant it is, but when I removed/installed my replacement engine (4.6), I had to move the engine and tranny forward a few inches to mate the tranny to the engine.
My tranny is a 4R70W, but basically the same outer case as what you're dealing with I believe, so which engine I would think is irrelevant.
Yes, it's a pita, motor mounts, radiator,exhaust,etc etc Possibly you could loosen the motor mounts and tip the engine back? I was doing it all on jacks, etc, no lift, so I didn't think thru what could have been done if I had a lift.

It is not just the Lokar cable, it is the Lokar system.  You will need the Lokar shifter for AOD installed.  The lever installs in any direction.  I'm so sorry that I forgot that part is needed.

Gasman,

My intent was to use the stock shifter if possible.  Where is your picture taken.  It looks like way too much room under there.  My shifter is hitting the edge of the floor pan where it dips down.

I "might" have more room when I finally get the transmission mated to the engine.  Remember that I have that 2" thick adapter plate in there too.

Rich

Rich do you have the rear of the engine hanging down?  I know the Y is pretty well centered on the motor mounts but tilting it down in the back will allow the transmission to just "slide" into place and will most likely give you the room in the tunnel after it is against the engine.

I have a jack under the front of the engine, but as you note, the engine is well centered on the mounts.  I will loosen the bolts so it will tilt more, but now I need to deal with the shifter lever too.

I just went to the LOKAR site and there are several options, but I have not seen an option that will let me use my stock shifter.  Anyone aware of something that will adapt to the column shifter?

Rich

Using the OEM AOD shift tube and TV lever with the Lokar TV cable is just a guess.  The Lokar cable is designed to use the Lokar TV lever and Lokar shift tube.  I'm sure the OEM stuff can be figured out but I have no experience with it.  I did use the Lokar shift lever/tube with the one-piece, OEM style shift rod connected directly from the transmission to the steering column.  It worked fine.  But, with the rough idle from the cammed up engine, I was concerned with the wear and tear on the steering column and the shift sector and also the potential for popping out of gear or some other gear change.  So I made the upgraded shifter equalizer linkage (the red stuff in the PIC).  Smooth as glass now.  The equalizer also gave more clearance for header and exhaust pipes.

Rich, hopefully someone here has your answers, but in the meantime, I did some checking on the Hamb, and all I could find so far was a nice article with pics on using an oem automatic column shifter for an AOD in a '54. I don't know if the tranny you pulled from your car would have been the same one in '54, or at least the shift pattern?
http://1954ford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2951

Gasman,

I like the looks of your lash up.  I really don't want a floor shifter, and with some seat of the pants engineering, I should be able to figure this out. 

Rich, your link looks good too. 

All of this gives me some thinking to do. 

Got to change oil in my wife's car, then I can attack the Fairlane again.

Rich

Gasman,

I looked at the Lokar instructions for their shifter and they show a new "sector shaft & trans arm."  They say to remove old one and install theirs.  What holds that in?  Do I have to open the transmission to get this out?

Rich

I found that the sector shaft is sold separately and I found the instructions on how to replace it.

https://www.lokar.com/assets/instructions/INS0030-FordAOD-AODE-4R70Wselectshaft.pdf

Rich

Unfortunately, you'll need to drop the pan and valve body.

or make a bracket......

Yes, I saw that you have to remove the pan to install a new shift arm. 

I am also considering making a bracket.  Mine sticks up, and I will need it to stick down.  I don't see the TV cable in your picture.  If the shift arm is down, the TV cable is above-is there space for that to function?

Rich

That shot was before the cable went on.  I'll try to get a shot of it now.  It has changed a slight bit since the first try.  Using a 62 Bird column, the n-safety and back up lights didn't both hit when they should have.  Turns out even though the column and the transmission were happy together I needed to get the geometry better aligned.  Wish I could tell you the secret to making it all line up but a little luck, a little laying on my back pondering my belly button, one failed try and finally the thing came together.

The transmission is IN THE CAR!  I only have three bolts tight, but it's in and not hitting any sheetmetal.  I did a test fit with the driveshaft and have 2.5" of engagement on the spline shaft.

The next new problem is that the cross member is not going to work without modification.  I have a plan, but am running by a structural engineer that I know before I whack it.  As I am sure you all know, the cross member ducks under the exhaust pipes and curves out around the back of the transmission.  Well, on the AOD, it's hitting the back of the oilpan.  In my picture, I plan to cut the cross member at the tip of the tape and at the 15" mark.  Then weld 3/" steel plate across the cut and extend it back another 3.5" - 4".  I have a piece of 3" heavy channel iron that I can bridge the gap with and use that for the surface for the new mount to sit on.

I have also worked out the geometry for the shift linkage.  I am pretty sure I can use the existing linkage with an added bell crank.  This will make the 1-1/8" vertical travel on the stock shift rod move the shifter through its full range of 6 positions.  On the indicator on the column, it's just a piece of engraved plastic.  I can have a new one made with all the shift's shown on it.  The shift lever moves 60 degrees through its full range.  Length of the shift lever is 2.5", the lever connected to the shift rod is only 1-1/8 long, but it works, at least on my CAD program.  I show the levers in the neutral position.

Rich

Rich, see post #36 for a pic of Bill's cross member, and a link to mine in #39. I used a pretty stout angle, where you're mentioning a channel.
Also not sure what side of the tape your looking at for the depth of the cut, but something you may want to consider is making sure your as deep as you can go without sacrificing strength. I mention that because, I had to move my engine/tranny back an inch further that most of the guys did because I needed to clear the tranny on my RACK AND PINION. iI can't remember what your steering is, but should there be a posibility of a R&P down the road, you'll need a bit more clearance on your cross member.
Structural engineer?? I think maybe  you're over thinking it. Just do it!
Rich

Rich,

The structural engineer is a friend and he has blessed this mess.  I intend to cut clear through the cross member.  I have to move the mounting point 3.5" - 4" towards the rear and I have to clear the oil pan.  As to r&p steering, nope.  I put in a borgeland (sp) power steering unit a few years ago and it's working just fine.

I'll borrow a welder to mock this up on the car and then take it to the RR museum and do a good job of welding it there.

Rich

OK......didn't realize you had to move the mounting point, thought it was just oil pan clearance. I have no idea why you're mounting point is so far back. I don't think I could have gotten mine back that far if I wanted. I realize a different engine, but my tranny mount ended up being exactly (within 1/16) of the oem mouning holes. I only had to clear for the tranny oil pan. With that said, I don't think Bill's was that far back either.
I'll see what I can find, I'm starting to recall something on the Hamb about which AOD to pick as the  casing differed..maybe a truck thing

From what I was told this morning, all AOD's are the same as far as bellhousing to mounting holes location. I did find out my 4R70W (and AODE) are in fact different. The AOD has a 1" shorter mounting hole location, which adds even more to my confusion about how it is you have to move your mounting location back 3 1/2", I would have had to move forward an inch if mine were the AOD dimension.
How did you determine you had to move back? Sorry if I'm adding some confusion here, I know how thorough your project planning usually is, something just doesn't sound right to me, and I'm really curious what Bill has to say. I'm not sure Gary's numbers would be of use because he has so many frame modifications done (or maybe not, I may be thinking of his sedan)

I didn't respond to cross member issues because: 1) mine is a Windsor engine 2) I tossed the OEM cross member.  On the first AOD install, I modified the OEM cross member much like the C6 modifications...pan clearance and tweak the mount holes.  Even though the modifications clearance the pan enough for operation, it did not clear enough for easy pan removal for maintenance.  So, for a better fit, easier maintenance, and exhaust pipe clearance, I made another cross member.  As far as the different lengths between AOD, AODE and 4R70, this is the first I've heard of it.  I have found no main case length difference in these models.  I have found two length tailshaft/tailhousings...about an inch.  I use the harder to find, longer tail.  With the longer tail and longer rear yoke, the Crown Vic Police aluminum drive shaft fits.  I also use the 4R70 long tail housing with its bigger bushing and tail seal.  This also means a bigger slip yoke to reduce premature bushing and seal failure.  The AOD/AODE slip yoke is C4 compatible.  The 4R70 yoke stands alone.

His AOD will be set back further because of the adaptor between the engine and the transmission bell housing.  If I remember he said it was 2" wide, that and the back of the Y-block block sticks out further then the later model engines we used.

here's where I got the dimensional differences
http://non-stoptransmission.com/en/info-ford.php   dim "c". Note the comment about the mounting pads usually being on the tail extension, which is what I was wondering if there were different extensions as far as mounting points.
Yes, mine is a modular engine, BUT, where it was set was determined by where the front of the tranny bellhousing had to be to clear everything (rack), so what engine it is really didn't come in to play. Yes, the 2" adapter, but that's only 1/2 of the difference were looking at.
Really doesn't matter, except to urge Rich to recheck his dimensions

Regarding the location of the mount location for my transmission.  I've got it bolted up and then I put the two lower bolts on the right side of the cross member and pushed it up as far as I can to get a location.  If I push up on the tail of the transmission, I can move it a very small amount, enough to say it's not hitting sheet metal.  With no support under the transmission, there is no sag.  I have a temp support under it now just to take any strain off of the engine mounts, but where it is is not going to change.  I would not feel comfortable coping out enough of the stock cross member to gain the clearance I need. 

I have the two lower bolts on the right side of the transmission tight and the lowest one on the left side tight.  I can't get a socket on the rest of them.  I "may" cut an access hole in the transmission tunnel for the top two.  I don't think the existing access holes are lining up with the AOD bolt heads, but I may be able to see them.

The mount I bought is for the 2000 Explorer.  From mounting surface to mounting surface, it's 2.75"  That seems like a lot, shorter would help.  Anyone using a shorter unit?

I was not very clear on how I intend to modify my cross member.

The sketch is just to show the cut joint.  I want to cut clear through the cross member and remove the center section.  then move that section forward to where it needs to be.  I will use a 3/8" steel plate to reconnect the cut sections.  I will be able to bolt in the two side sections to the frame, then bolt the transmission mount to the tailshaft and attach the center section of the cross member to the mount.  All I need to do then is make sure I have the 3/8" gap on each side of the center section and measure the 3/8" plate to do the reattachment.  I don't have a welder, but I know a guy that has one I can borrow.  I'll tack weld the pieces together then remove the cross member and do structural welds at the joints.  At least that's today's plan.

Rich

Because of clearance issues, I had to redo the lever arrangement for my shifter modifications.

I had a conversation with LOKAR tech rep today and found out that kit I bought for mounting the TV cable will not work on my Holley EFI unit.  They don't make a kit for the 2V unit.

After leaning over the fender and studying the accelerator linkage (the location of which is the problem for the TV cable) I think I have a solution for this too.  I will have to abandon the the stock linkage and fabricate a new mount for the pivot point and make a place to mount the TV cable housing. 

Today, I was thinking, there is not another car on the planet exactly like mine.  Which is why there are so many installation issues to be solved.  I'm sure it's the same for many of you.

Rich

I've got guests this week so not much work done on the car.   However, I do have the shift linkage installed and it's working.  Different than my last posting.  I will post the accurate dimensions soon.

I need to make a new throttle linkage and I think I can use the SRK-4000 mounting kit for the TV cable even it if is not for my setup.

Thanks,

Rich

I'm back to work on the transmission transplant.

I've got the cross member spot welded together and the new throttle linkage and TV cable connected.  I bought a longer front yoke ($61) so I don't have to modify the driveshaft (that would cost $200.)  The new yoke takes a different universal joint.  The Fairlane uses a 1310 type of u-joint the Mustang yoke that I bought uses the 1330 type of joint, so I am getting a combination u-joint.  That will be delivered on Monday from Autozone, about $24. 

Attached is the correct dimensions for the shift lever arrangement that I made.

It's getting close.

Rich

Right now, I'm working on wiring the new gear drive starter/with integral relay and I'm not feeling too bright.

Photos are the Fairlane wiring diagram showing the starter circuit and a photo of the starter relay.

I know that I have to abandon the wire from the battery to the left side of the relay and the wire from the right side of the relay to the starter (heavy red wires.)

I need a battery wire direct to the starter and I need the ignition switch wire that goes direct to the relay mounted on the starter.

However, there are other things attached to the original relay that still need power.

Of the two smaller wires on the top of the relay, I believe the one on the left (dark green) is the one that should go to the starter.  At least that is the one that I connect my remote starter switch to when I am using that.

I'm thinking that I also need to provide positive power to the left side of the original relay (where the original battery was connected).  That would not need to be a large wire, maybe a #14.  I'm not sure how power is available to ignition system when the key it turned on.

Anyone got any insight on this issue?

Rich

wire it like a FORD.  Leave the inner fender mount relay and wiring alone.  Add a jumper wire on the new starter from the big post to the little one.  Moving all the wires to the starter just adds all the Chevy problems to your Ford.

I still need to take power from the battery to the starter.  That eliminates the power cable to the existing relay.

I just bought a new battery cable that has an extra smaller wire at the clamp end.  Power from that wire to the left side (in the picture) of the existing relay will still power other items.  Does removing the dark green wire to the new starter relay (left of the two smaller wires) cause any issues?

Rich

Rich.........I don't know much about the old wiring systems, but I think what I understood Gary to mean when he said "leave the old relay and WIRING alone", he was saying that including  the supply wire to the starter from the relay as it was, just add a jumper wire to power the starter solenoid.  ??
If I understood him correctly, you'll basically have 2 relays in the system, but that'll avoid having to do a bunch of rewiring.

Lets be specific when talking about wires.

If I take the battery cable from the right side of the existing relay to the starter, then there would be two relays activated to crank the engine.  Am I missing something?  The new gear drive starter has a starter solenoid mounted directly on it.

Rich

That was my understanding of what Gary said, but I am not someone you should take advise from on wiring. I had edited my above post as you were typing.

I was getting ready to pour in the transmission oil so I can start the engine, BUT, as I was going over my mental check list, which should be on paper.   I still have to connect the coolant lines. 

I'll do the plumbing then finish the wiring issue.

Rich

Both the Windsor and 385 engines have PowerMaster Ultra starters and wired with a jumper on the starter and have been for several years.  Think of the inner fender mounted device as a relay the energizes the relay to starter cable that energizes the starter and the starter solenoid/servo that engages the bendix/starter gear into the flywheel.  One of the reasons why I wire this way is any Ford compatible starter can be installed without rewiring.  The biggest reason I leave it the FORD way is for the relocated battery in the trunk.  The large starter cable from the trunk to the starter is only hot when cranking the engine.  Yes, all the rest of the circuits run through the entire car but they all have fuses.  I don't want to add resistance to the main starter cable by adding connections and fuse.

four quarts in the transmission, rear wheels off the ground, drive shaft in...light this candle!

Well, it's too late.  The AOD & torque converter take 12 quarts.  I've put in 10 and won't start the car until tomorrow.  Plumbing changes were actually pretty easy.  One line had to be cut and the other extended.  Now, if they just don't leak.

Update to follow.

Rich

With just about anything that I can think of being cancelled in the Denver area, I have more time to finish my transmission project.

I made the minor changes to the starter wiring I as noted below.  Easy to do and it is working fine.  I took out the battery cable to the starter solenoid and eliminated the cable from the solenoid to the starter,  Added one longer cable direct from battery to solenoid mounted on the starter and added a #12 wire from + on battery to the original battery connection on the solenoid.  Also added one #12 wire from the original solenoid to the starter mounted solenoid so it can be started from the ignition key. 

I got all the welding done on the revised cross member, cleaned up the welds and got it painted, will mount it tomorrow.  Autozone screwed up my order for a 1310 to 1330 combination u-joint, but the replacement will be here Wednesday so I can reassemble the new front yoke on the driveshaft and get that installed. 

I bought a plug w/pigtail for the neutral safety switch, it's mounted, but I have yet to figure out which wires I need.  Lots of places are selling this plug, but I think they all come from Ron Francis.

Rich

Update?....you've been surprisingly quiet, I hope everything is well up your way.

Rich,

Well, as it happens I just returned from a test drive.

It's been cold and snow here so not much work in the garage.  However, I did get the new u-joint installed.  At that point I went for a test drive, but I was not happy with the accelerator linkage pile of junk that I made.  Just not up to Ford's standards.  So, I dug out the original and took a good look at it and just drilled one hole in it to mount the TV cable/revised spring assembly.

About 10% the work that I invested in making my homemade pile-o-crap. 

So, the drive went okay.  I have to readjust the original linkage after altering the connecting rod shape and length.  I think my speedometer is reading about 10% slow with the original gear so I will check into that.

I have not done the pressure test on the transmission, just the rough adjustment.   Right now, I would say it's shifting a little early.  I'm not putting miles on it until I do get the pressure adjustment completed.

It's been a little more of a project than I anticipated, but that's normal.  I really want to see what it does at highway speeds.

Rich

Good to see it coming together.  Adjust that cable or you're going to smoke that transmission...if you haven't already!!

I adjusted it with the tool that came with the TV cable kit.  I've got about 2 miles on the car now.

Rich

Yep, cold weather will put a damper on working in the garage.
I'm still curious/puzzled by your tranny placement.........did that 4"+ mounting holes movement back work out? As Gary said, get that TV cable fine-tuned............I've never dealt with one, but I've read many times about having them not adjusted correctly will damage the tranny real fast.
Good luck, you're almost there.

Rich,

Look at reply #109, it shows the revised cross member.  It seems to be fine.  I haven't checked to see if any tranny shops are open, but the way things are going now, I doubt it.  I just looked through my pile of misc. stuff and found two gauges.  I'll use the one on the right and what it says.  I noticed it says R-22 & R-12, so this must be from a refrigeration gauge set.  I'll check it against my air compressor and see if it makes any difference.

Rich

Well, I verified my pressure gauge is at least as accurate as the two gauges on my air compressor.  I did get the TV cable adjusted, but I did have a minor problem.  The return spring on the TV cable was not pushing it all way to the stop.  Just a very small additional bit of oomph was required.  No, there is no resistance in the cable.  With the cable free and moving the arm on the transmission the spring was not pushing it to the zero pressure point.  I'll let Lokar know about that.  In the meantime, I added a small spring.  In the picture you can see that there is virtually no stretch in the spring.  I looked for a long weak spring so it would not add much pedal resistance.  I was a little surprised how sensitive the pressure is when that lever moved.  I do have it set at exactly 35 psi with the adjusting tool installed and it goes to zero when removed.

On the test drive it seemed to be shifting properly.  Twice I had it downshift unexpectedly, maybe properly?  I was coasting down a long hill doing about 55 approaching a turn, at about 45 +/- it dropped out of O/D.  Another time, I was approaching a red traffic signal when it turned green.  I was doing maybe about 10 - 15 when I hit the gas and it dropped a gear then too.  I measured about 1840rpm at 60 mph (measured by GPS.)  The speedometer is reading high by about 10%.  I have a R-19 gear and it appears that what I need is a 21 tooth gear. 

Now, if I just had a place to go.

Rich

Alright!!!
As I said before, with my car I'm not sure I would even have it in Overdrive most the time, yours may differ. Can it be manually locked out?
A place to go???......take a ride to Blackhawk/Central City and take some pics of your car downtown with no cars around! You may never have that chance again.

Rich,

Selections on the gear shift are, in order, O/D, D, 1.  So, of course I don't have to use overdrive. 

I think I have only been to Blackhawk/Central City a couple of times since they legalized gambling.  It is very likely that they will be deserted, maybe a good idea.

I've included a picture I took last summer at an old gas station in Golden, it's now a construction company.  Also a picture of my '37 Chevy taken in Silverplume some years ago.  I no longer have that car.  Silverplume is about 11,000' and the car has a zero pressure cooling system.  The last few miles are a very steep road and I lost a lot of coolant getting there.  I put in about 1-1/2 gallons of water when we got there.  I think water boils at about 190 at that altitude.

Rich

Those are great pics Rich. That Chev is beautiful! Great use of an old service station.
I've assumed they've closed casinos in Colorado..they have in OK, NM, Nv. It would be kinda neat to cruise Breckenridge without a ton of traffic as well..as long as you're up in that area. The nicely redone road out of Blackhawk going to the west I70 exit would get you going in that direction, lol.

The '37 Chevy was a car I bought about 6-months before I retired.  A guy had worked on the car for 20 years, then sold it to someone that was going to make a hotrod out of it.  It sat in his garage for about 4 years and he did nothing to it.  I bought it in November and was driving it by February.  I eventually took it completely apart, had it painted and rebuild the engine, front end, transmission and did a new interior.  The car had a fatal flaw, no a/c and perhaps not enough HP to run one.  If it was 95 outside, it was 95 inside and it did now matter how many windows you opened, it was just not comfortable to drive in the summer.  So, I put it on ebay and sold it right away for full price.  I then took the cash and bought the 2002 Corvette.  Still got that one.  Check out this link I made to sell the car.  It was getting so many hits I left it on YouTube.  https://youtu.be/xtwGx0RFrVg

Yes, I know about the shortcut to I-70 from Central City, after, it's almost in my backyard.  And yes, the casinos are closed as well as the ski areas, restaurants, barber shops, gyms, rec. centers, etc.  Many restaurants are doing delivery and carryout.  Denver is doing a major shutdown of all non-essential businesses this evening at 5:00pm.

I did go to Home Depot late this morning.  Huge line at the store, they are restricting the number of people in the store at a time.  There is a Lowes about 1/2 mile away and there was no line and no crowd.  I wore my half mast respirator and no one laughed at me. 

We old pharts need to keep ourselves safe and healthy,

Rich

DIY instructions for AOD installation.  This is meant to go with a video that is in progress.  I should have it done in the next week or so.

Rich

It's been a while since I last posted.  I have continued to have trouble with the way the transmission shifts.  This morning I went in for diagnostics.  It was determined that I would have remove the transmission and take it back for the builder to see what is going on, or not going on.  I had it out of the car in 90 minutes, pretty good for an old phart.  I took it to the builder and they immediately did a complete tear down.  I stayed for the surgery.  They found a minor issue that caused a major problem.  No new parts required, just a stuck governor.  With luck they will have it back together tomorrow and I'll pick it up in the afternoon.  Then, I'll have to reinstall it.  That takes more time than removal, but I can get it done.  Hopefully this solves the problems.

They did ask that I flush the core of the cooler.  I got a can of Cooler Clean and blasted that through the core.  I collected all of the fluid and it all looked pretty clean, but I suppose that there is a chance that something in the system caused the problem.  However, the old transmission leaked so much that I was always adding fluid.  It should have been pretty clean.

Rich

...............well, how did it go?

Rich,

Well, I did get it back in and have done several test drives.  I would say I have a 90% improvement.  I have scheduled a visit back to the shop for 8:00am Thursday morning so they can either fine tune the adjustments or tell me that they want it back on their bench.  I'm hoping for a fine tuning will make it perfect.  I don't want to wear out my bolts taking it out again.

Since I had it out, I got a better picture of my home made shift linkage. 

Does anyone know of a site that translates the numbers on the transmission to what it came out of?

Rich

Neutral safety switch? Good luck tomorrow!

Yes, I got the switch and a pigtail for it.  Still have to wire it into the system.  Right now, you can start the car in any gear you want, but I start it in Park.

Rich

Diagnostics today (Thursday.)  Car shifts normally when cold.  As it warms up, failure to downshift into 1st when coming to a stop.  Measured pressure on the front pump.  Too high.  Valve body replacement tomorrow.  On the original rebuild of the transmission a brand new original Ford valve body was removed from original packaging and installed.  It should be a quick fix and I don't have to remove the transmission.

I hope tomorrow is the end of the story.

Rich

The saga continues.  Measurement of pressures are good.  Adjustment of the TV cable is good.  We replaced the valve body and there is still a failure to downshift to first gear.

They want to try fine tuning the TV cable adjustment one more time and if that does not work, they will furnish another rebuilt transmission.

I am not looking forward to the removal and replacement again, but I think that is what will be happening.  The good news is that it is not costing me anything, but blood, toil, tears and sweat.

Rich

valve body and governor control the shift points and are both serviceable with the transmission  in the car.  If you can manually shift to first gear and it works correctly, there is nothing wrong with the transmission.  The governor is suspect especially since the governor get the first oil back from the cooler.  If there was any dirt/foreign material shook loose in the cooler and/or cooler lines during installation, the dirt goes directly into the governor.  You mentioned a new valve body, wash the old one without taking it apart and install.  Does it shift differently?

I don't have the old valve body.  I did flush the cooling system prior to installation.  I also collected the fluid from the flush and it was clean.

When cold, the transmission seemed to function correctly.  In just a couple  of miles of driving at 30 - 40 mph, it would no longer down shift into first gear at a stop.  All the upshifts seemed normal.  I cannot force it into first gear when it will not down shift at a stop.  When accelerating away from a stop, it will downshift into first gear. 

One thing I had thought of was that modern vehicles idle at a higher rpm than the Y-Block.  I think factory settings were about 450 rpm, I've had it set at 550 rpm.  But, for this testing I jacked it up to about 825 rpm.  That did not seem to make any difference.

Thanks for the comments.

Rich

Well, we installed a new governor on the transmission yesterday.  I had found a video from Monster Transmissions on how to clean and evaluate the governor.  When the existing unit was removed, I examined it and I felt sure that it was not defective, but we installed the new one anyway.  This morning I went our for a test drive and right off, it was working perfectly, but within a couple of miles it was doing exactly the same thing.  I tried adjusting the TV pressure and tested it at 35, 38, 42 and 46 psi.  It did not affect the downshifting into first gear, but it did make the shifts harder.

Something is happening inside of the transmission when it warm up.  A friend who teaches Automotive Tech at the local community college feels that the case may be warped.  Possibly had rough handling at some point.

The good news is that they are preparing another unit for me.  The bad news is that I have to remove the transmission again.  Practice makes perfect.

Rich

Man, you got me on the edge of my seat waiting to your issue to get resolved. Very interesting.

Will I guess with people at home with limited entertainment, this will have to suffice for some.  I hope you find something better soon because I hope this saga ends this coming week.

I've got the transmission out of the car and will take it back to them Saturday morning.  I haven't seen the new candidate, but I do want to make sure it has a long tailshaft and the same shift arm.  In my research, I learned that Ford had 16 different styles of shift arms.  If the other transmission is different, they can harvest the one from the original transmission.  My DIY shift linkage is not likely to work with other variants.

Stay tuned for chapter 372.

Rich

And the Good News is:  They were building me another transmission when they discovered a crack in the case.  They are getting another replacement and I did not have to find out about the cracked case after installing it in the car.

Rich

Any news on the replacement?

I should have it back this week, but then I thought I would have it back last week too.

Rich

I see that on June 8th I planned on getting the transmission back in a week.  Well, I got it back today, a very long week indeed.  It tried my patience, but, they did finally get it done.  When they decided to do a whole new rebuild, they had to get another transmission to rebuild.  Part way through the rebuild they found a crack in the case, next case was rejected because of rust inside, the next one was discovered to have some stripped out threads on some of the bolt holes.  FINALLY, they got one that is now completed and in my garage.  BUT, the shift arm is at a different angle from the first transmission.  I thought I could change it, but it's either up or down.  They did not use the shift arm from the first transmission, as I asked, so I would not have to rework my home made shift linkage.  I just watched a video from Monster Transmission and it confirms that I maybe stuck with making a new linkage or getting a different shift arm.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6UX9itv1NM&t=83s

Oh well, what else do I have to do?

Rich

That's a bummer, Rich. It's fighting you the whole way.

Rich,

I'm having a wonderful time.  I've ordered a shift arm from Lokar and will solve the linkage issues.  I can likely improve my home made shift linkage with their kit (ACA-1807.)

On another note, I found out that they sold the first transmission, the one that would not downshift into first for me.  And, the report is that it's working fine.  Makes me wonder if there is some fundamental flaw in what I've done.  During the trouble shooting phase on the first transmission I did take it to another shop and we did everything that they suggested and it still did not shift properly.

Delivery of my shift arm may get delayed a couple of days with the holiday coming up.  If I get it by Friday, I should have it back in the car for test drives on Saturday.

Have a safe 4th of July,

Rich

Just when you think things are going in the right direction.

Today, I completed the installation of the latest rebuilt transmission.  The one part I was waiting for was the tail shaft housing.  This case was originally a short tail shaft, but they set it up for the long tail shaft, just had to find a long tail shaft housing (11.1" in lieu of 10.1".)  So, I get it and install it.  Make all the final connections and dump in some oil and start the car.  I get it filled up, warmed up and ---- then I notice I have a small leak, like the whole floor under the car is bleeding red.  I shut it down and clean up the mess.  Maybe a gallon of Mercon V on the floor.  It appears that the leak is at the driveshaft.  I grab the front yoke and move it up and down. seems like a 1/4" of movement.  That NOT right.  I pull the tailshaft housing and measure it.  Hard to get an exact measurement with the seal installed, but it appears to have an ID of 1.7 inches, shaft on the front yoke is 1.5", yes, that's going to leak.  The housing is perfect otherwise.  I spoke to the mechanic.  He said the bushing the parts house sent out did not fit (is this a clue?)  So, he send the housing to the parts house and they sent back a bushing that fit.

I am hoping for a better day tomorrow.

The saga continues.

Rich

4R70 tail housing is larger than the AOD.  The 4R70 tail housing is better but requires a 4R70 yoke.

I figured it had to be something like this.  I've already bought a new longer front yoke and a 1310/1330 U-Joint, but the OD is the same.  The 4R70 yoke has a 28 spline, but the yoke cost $175, plus I would need another U-joint.  I don't want to go down this road.  When I bought the longer yoke ($65,) I avoided mods to the driveshaft (about $$200 to lengthen and balance at Drivetrain Industries here in Denver.)  They can look for the right tail shaft housing.  I would note that they look exactly the same except for the diameter of the shaft - it's a perfect fit to the AOD.

I have the 4R70 tail housing partially because I had one and also because the smaller AOD tail bushing was problematic.  The solution is the bigger bushing.

A radio is one of those things that makes more difference than you think until you install one.  My ranch wagon went from fun to take on errands to feeling like driving a modern car instantly.  Before the radio, it already had EFI, 4 wheel disk, AC, power steering and all that jazz.  But it was not until I put a radio in it that it truly felt modern to drive around.

Next and hopefully final chapter.

I received another rebuilt transmission and installed it.  It would not upshift.  I measured pressures from the TV port under various conditions.  Never got repeatable results.  The guys I've been working with have diligently gone after the problems, but have not been able to give me a working transmission.  Today, I made a deal with them.  I bought the case, torque converter and paid a nominal fee for the parts they already installed.  The transmission is now at a different shop, I hope to have it back on Tuesday.  My fear is that they won't find anything wrong with it, but there HAS to be a flaw in there somewhere.

If this does not work, I'm going to buy a Tesla and trash the body and mount the Fairlane on it.

Rich

Rich,

I can't believe what you're having to do! I imagine you can do transmission swaps in your sleep.

Needless to say, this has turned into a real mess.  Fortunately, other that the time to R & R the transmission, it's only tested my patience.  My skills at removing the transmission have improved to the point that today, I got it out is just a little over an hour.  Replacement is more time since I am doing this by myself.  The most time consuming part is realignment of the transmission to the flex plate/adapter plate on the rear of the engine.  I have to force the engine to tilt back about 1" then snug the tranny up to get all the alignment pins and holes in the flex plate lined up.  I've mentioned in the past that I have a steel leg table that I put the transmission on then lower the car down over the transmission.  I have also had my wife bump the valve on the lift to get down that last 1/2".  My table is about 30" high and when you lower the car down over it the lift is less than 2' from the floor.  I have my creeper that I use to move around when doing this.  Once I have the transmission mated to the engine, I can lift the car so I can stand under it.  Way better than using the creeper.  I know every bolt size and where they go by now.

There is not much to do with the car now.  Car shows are cancelled, the Golden Cruise is dead, car related events are done for this year.  Likely the same for the rest of you.

I gassed up my Explorer in early March and did not put gas in it again until mid June.  Seems that the only places I'm spending money is for house projects and the grocery store.

Rich

Well, the transmission that would not upshift had problems.  (I was afraid the tear down would not find a problem and I would then have to get another Fairlane to mate with the good transmission.)  First off, I made a deal with the first rebuilder to get him out of the picture.  I took the no upshift transmission to another shop near my home and they tore it down and found that the governor was damaged and the servo's had bad seals on them.  They also felt that there were parts from another transmission in this unit.  I did not see that as a problem, but they pushed me to get another core to rebuild.  My original rebuilder has agreed to take back the case I have now and to provide another one for rebuilding.  The one they are providing is in SW Colorado, but if they do what they said, they will get it yet this week.  Evidently, these units are getting hard to find.

In all of this mess I have managed to keep a decent relationship with the first rebuilder.  They tried hard and they failed.  It's cost me time (blood, sweat, toil - but no tears) and oil.  Each tear down causes the loss of some oil.  It's not a disaster, but if this was a normal summer, I would be pissed to have lost so much of it to this problem.  I started this process way back in February.  My hope is that the Fairlane will be back on the road next week.

Rich

Wow, and the saga continues. I'm probably not the only one here who is thinking you have a ton more patience than I would have had. Having a lift has sure made this doable for you though...imagine what it would have been like without one! As many AOD's there are/were on the road, it seems like most transmission shops would have cut their teeth on them....go figure.

Those things came in F150s through 93 (I had one), 80s Thunderbird, Cougars, Crown Vics, basically the entire Ford line up. Same case and bell for the 302s and the V-6 and the first series mod motors.  Got to be a gajillion on the road yet!

I torched the first two AODs before I could get the car off the hoist.  Very frustrating and embarrassing.  An AOD behind a 351w is not the same as a AOD behind a 302.  The flexplate is unique to the 351w.  The B&M torque converter was NOT happy without a B&M 351w flexplate (a fact they forgot to mention).  I collected a pile of AODs, AODEs, 4R70s and 4R75s from every Craigslist, Marketplace and local ad within 50 miles for no more than core price of $125.  I mix and match the newest upgrade, heavy duty, condition and aftermarket performance parts to Frankenstein together to make a hard shifting, durable overdrive.

I too like virgin transmissions.  It seems that every transmission someone else has been in has at least one assembly mistake. 

The AOD does have a couple of special tools but other than that, I used the same transmission tools I bought nearly 50 years ago.

Gary, can you please specify the problem with the 351/flexplate and AOD.
reason I am asking. I plan to put a 5L (302) Mustang AOD behind a '69 351.....

302s and AODs are very common and there isn't a problem.  The 351w with AOD combo was less common.  The 28 oz balance flexplate from a 28 oz balanced 302 did not work with B&M 3000 stall converter.  There was no torque converter end play so the pump was ate up in less that a minute of runtime.  I added a second block plate to get minimum converter end play.  I didn't like it and wanted more.  I researched B&M website and found they offered a 28 oz flexplate for 351w...no mention of the 302.  I installed the B&M flexplate and got a little more end play...not as much as is common among other makes but more than I had.  I never installed a stock converter to see if it was a B&M issue or a 351w/AOD issue.  The AOD has survived five summers now even with the 351 stroked to 408 at 550 hp.  The AOD with 4R70 gear set and LENTECH valve body performance is impressive.

That is great additional info, much appreciated !!! probably saved my transmission.
Both the AOD and 351 are out of the cars and I can 'play' with them on the bench/shop. stock converter. will be very careful checking the converter end play. how much would you think is ok ?

I've never read a spec for converter end play...just there needs to be some.  But, if I had to put a number to it...minimum .030".  I have .040-.050".

I know this is a little basic, the AOD torque converter goes in with three "clicks" vs the normal two for the non AODs.  My AOD behind the 351C has close to 1/16" play between all the way in and seated against the flex plate.

great info, thx !

.050 / 1/16th is in the same range, about 1.25-1.5 mm ( metric) for me... :003:

Rich, I'm almost afraid to ask if there are any updates.

Rich,

Well, yes.  The transmission that I last mentioned (#5) the current rebuilder wanted to see if we could find a better core.  So, the original guy did come up with another core (#6) and upon disassembly they decided to go back to #5.  I told them to just buy what ever additional parts are necessary and I will cover the cost.  The list was not all that big, items worth about $150 - $200.  They received the parts by Tuesday of this week and went to work on it Wednesday.  Today was my day at the RR museum, so, if all went well, I will pick up the transmission in the morning.

I should have it back in the car and ready for driving either Friday or Saturday.

If my crystal ball had told me of all this crap, I would have just bought a unit from Monster Transmission.  They have had their AOD's on sale for $1,195, plus shipping, plus providing and shipping to them a core, plus a convertor, plus sales tax, plus, plus, plus.   After all, it's only money, no big deal.  Well, like most of us, I do have limits and I like to do as much as I can.  I also think I am smart enough to know what I can't do.  I've never ripped into an automatic transmission.  A guy at the current shop was telling me, "it's no big deal - you could do it your self."  I told him I would be glad to rebuild his transmission first, then I would try to do one for myself. 

There are YouTube videos that show the disassembly and reassembly of these transmissions.  With a few special tools, I do think I might well have been able to do this - BUT, I did not try and I think this may well be the last automatic transmission I will consider doing work on.

In the back of my mind I still think of building a car someday.  I would have to get rid of either the '02 Corvette or the Fairlane.  No more room and I won't leave a car out in the weather here.  Snow/Wind/Hail/intense sun/etc.

Anyway, I will have what I hope is a final update in just a few days.

Take care,

Rich

The saga continues.

I got the rebuilt transmission back and installed it in the car.  Filled it with oil, got it warmed up and reset the adjustment for the Throttle Valve cable.  Off I went.  Car shifted a little hard, but it did go up through the gears.  About a mile from home I came to a complete stop and was watching the transmission pressure.  It was high.  I had my wrenches with me so I tried to readjust the TV cable.  Can't do it.  I am at 70 psi and it won't go down.  I disconnect the TV cable from the EFI and manually pull on the cable.  It's moving freely and I can move it through it full range of motion.  No change in the pressure.  I drive it back home and it won't come out of first gear.  Not surprising since the pressure is so high.  I have an appointment at 8:00 tomorrow morning at the shop.

Meanwhile, back in my garage two hours after the test drive, I check and the pressure is back to normal.  When it's hot, something is sticking.  They want to examine the valve body.

To be continued.......

Wow! I may be completely rid of the the thought to switch to an automatic....

On the positive side, if there is one, can you imagine going thru all this s#%t with a tranny you bought that was shipped in?
I think about now, I'd be looking for a driveable beater that has the tranny you want.

First off:  Lalessi1 - I would hope that NO ONE would have a repeat of my problems and I would not let this discourage you.

Now, for what I hope is the final update:  I drove over to the transmission shop this morning.  I left early because I thought I might be driving over in 1st gear.  Well, as they say, today was a new day.  It shifted normally on my drive to the shop.  We discussed options and decided that I should do more test driving.  So I drove about 5 miles on side streets and all seemed fine.  Then I launched onto the Interstate and did about 10 miles, still in pretty good shape.  It was slow going into overdrive.  At 65, the RPM's dropped from about 2,500 down to about 1,800.

Went back to the shop and decided to wait for a while and see if any of the shifting problems come back.  At this point I put in the test gauge and measured 28 PSI, yesterday I had it set to 34 PSI with the recommended starting point of 35 PSI. 

Starting off in 1st gear gives the car a lot more pep.  Keep in mind that at 5,600' where I live there is about a 17% reduction in rated power at sea level. 

I have now earned my "transmission remove/install" merit badge. 

Next project is to replace the 25 year old valve guide seals, but not today. 

Here is a link to the video.

https://youtu.be/9-L2kuIHpLI

Rich

Rich, that is a great video containing many good ideas on the shift levers, trans mount aso. Thanx for posting!
concerning your latest shifting issue, which healed itself. Do you think it's possible that there was still some air bubbles trapped somehere in the system or valvebody, that possibly bleeded overnight ? Guenter

Jack,

Thanks for your comments.  I could speculate on the shift problem, but I will be happy if it just continues to work properly.  The manager at the transmission shop wanted to give me an additive for the transmission, but his stock was out.  So, I went and bought a bottle of the recommended magic juice.  It's "Lubegard."  I need to drain a little fluid before putting this in as I am already slightly overfilled.  I plan to drive the car to my Wednesday lunch group which will put about 50 miles on it.  Mostly interstate driving.

I've had the video ready for quite a while but wanted to wait until all was working well.  I did make two changes from what I started with.  The small platform that I used to mount the TV cable and the accelerator linkage went away and I just used a small bracket to hold the TV cable on the original mounting bracket.  I also bought a Lokar shift linkage kit that was nicer that the one I built although I still use the bell crank that I made.  It shifts fine with the stock column shifter.

Rich

A quart over fill in the AOD is recommended.

Recommended by who and what are their qualifications to make this recommendation?  That is not something that I am inclined to do.

On the down side, it's shifting through all the gears, but not as smoothly as I would like.  I still have a pressure gauge connected to the TV port and have been watching it as I drive.  I have delayed shifts when the pressure is high, which is what I would expect.  I have not yet put in the LubeGard additive.  That will have to wait until this weekend.

Rich

Quote from: gasman826 on 2020-08-19 11:30
A quart over fill in the AOD is recommended.

Well, the pressure problem hit the wall.  75 PSI in all gears, no changes no matter what I did.

Monday I called the shop and they could not get me in until Wednesday.  I asked if they would work on the valve body if I brought it in.  Yes was the answer, so I had it to them right after lunch, got it back today before noon and was driving the car by 2:00pm.  They did find minor issues with two valves which evidently had a major impact on the high pressure issue.

It now appears to be working properly.  All this crap over a minor(major) issue with the valve body.  I sure hope that this is THE END of the story!

and they lived happily ever after.

Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2020-08-26 07:24
and they lived happily ever after.

X2!

I'll get some miles on the car today and again on Friday.  After all this crap, I want to give it a chance to either do well or fail.  I need reliability too.

Next project is to replace the valve guide seals and it looks like I have a leaky wheel cylinder on the left rear.  Got to check that out too.

I've only put about 13,000 miles on this car since I bought it in 2012.  I've had it towed home three times during this period.  Once right after I got it home when rust in the gas tank clogged up the fuel filter (I completely replaced the entire fuel system - tank and all,) not long after that I had two flats in one afternoon (resulting in a new set of tires) and after installing my EFI system, my new high pressure fuel pump failed.  The joys of driving a 63 year old car.  You know, after driving my '37 Chevy, the '57 Fairlane seemed like a giant leap forward into the "modern" era for vehicles.  It will cruise down the highway and keep up with traffic, it's got A/C, PB, PS, EFI, Automatic W/OD, Seat Belts, Radio (original), Radial Tires, and - the clock works.  What more could you ask for? WI-FI, GPS?  That's for the next owner to deal with.   

Rich, great to hear that they found the problem(s)!  Do not fear, the 57 will get you places.
imho the 57 Fords were 10-20 yrs ahead of their time. They handle and drive solid as a rock and will easily make up to any 1970s or even 1980s fullsize car. In addition to that, they are just pretty, have a neat dash and speedo to look at, have extremely comfortable seats and armrests, great fresh air vents and the wraparound windshield provides that 1950s Cinemascope visibility ! :003: Enjoy !

Thanks for your comments.

I've had an opportunity to do more driving and it seems to be working fine in all gears.  Shifts may be just a touch later than I like, so I will do some tweaking with the TV cable, but all in all, it is doing what I want. 

It's taken so long to get to this point, I can hardly believe it.  The added acceleration in first gear alone is worth it. 

Rich

 :023: :boobies2:

Just for the heck of it, I looked back at my posts to see the date that I ordered the adapter kit.  It was February 19, it's been a 189 day project.

Rich

Glad to hear. Ever need an excuse to put on a few miles, drop on down to Colorado Springs. Let's grab lunch, Les.

Les,

Say, that sounds like a plan.  I have a sister living just to the north of the Pulpit Rock open space, exit 149 I think.  Where are you located?  I'm in NW Arvada.

Rich

I'm in east central Colorado Springs. I can drive and meet anywhere. Great Mexican restaurant In Monument. Sorry it took so long to see your response, got a puppy on Saturday, been busy around here.

Just call or text me at 719-351-6125. Les

Les,

Until the virus mess is under control, we've minimized our contact with others.  Although I have no health issues, I am in the over 70 male group and feel that it is prudent to wait for a while yet for more social contact. 

The car's running well and I'd like to stretch it's legs, but I am resisting for now.  Our time will come, but not yet.

Thanks for the offer,

Rich

No problem at all Rich.