57 Ranchero based on Fairlane?

[RICH MUISE]

here's a pic or two as I find them:
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3763.0;attach=5372
The first one shows the access box for the Mustang wiper motor, as well as the alterations I did on the defroster duct (removed center section, added 2" dia inlets). My wiper motor is controled by the steering column multi function switch, and utilizes the Mustang  control module to get the variable speed settings.
This pic shows the plate I added for the direction-reversing center arm support:
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3910.0;attach=5916
This pic shows the hard arms. item #6 in the pic(sq. tube) was insufficient and replaced with the plate shown in the previous picture.
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2410.0;attach=3147

John, I meant to ask you why you used a later year pivot instead of modifying the '57's.

[jvo]

Yours looks like a cleaner installation than mine.  Wish I had seen it sooner.  And the 57 wiper pivots? I guess I didn't look at them too closely, as I never figured I would be able to take them apart to use them.  I'll have another look here right away, going back out to the shop shortly.

I cut all the rust out of the rusty Ranchero today, and this is all that was left.

[jvo]

I went out and looked at the 57 wiper pivots, and I can see if I grind off the spot weld on the bottom of the post, I can maybe take it apart.  How did you take yours apart?  Were you able to spot weld the new arm onto the post, without melting the inside of the post, i.e. bushing or whatever is in the middle of the post?  If I could do this, then I could use the 57 posts, as you obviously did, and my outer bezels would line up properly.  I might have to put a twist into the actuator arm inside, because of the bevel that the post is mounted on, compared to the straight through 59 post I have on there now, but that isn't a big deal at all.  You got any pics of how you modified your posts?
And, the rusty one is stripped, except for the dash and heater.  Then to cut the roof off, but I have to study how the B pillar is put together first, to come up with a good plan on how to chop the B pillar 1 1/4 inches to match the Fairlane windshield height.  After that, I can cut the back wall out of the cab, then butcher the rest up and say bye bye to it.

[RICH MUISE]

I'll see if I can find some pics of the actual pivot modification. Long time ago, but I didn't have too much trouble with it as I recall. I think I just ground of the swedging or weld at the end so I could remove the oem stuff.  I think it also is a solid shaft, so no problem with welding it to the new steel piece. I think I press fit the shaft into the new arm and didn't weld it until I had everything correct.

[RICH MUISE]

Found some pics. From one of the pics, it looks like there is a bronze bushing inside the '57 pivot, so no problem for welding.

[jvo]

Okay, that looks good.  I will give that a whirl sometime in the next week or so.  Looks like you put a small nylon washer in there too.  How the heck did you keep that from melting when you spot welded the arm on. Stick it in a bucket of water right after welding?  Or, I guess maybe the press fit is holding most of it, so it doesn't need a really big weld?? Thanks.
Okay, upon closer inspection of the first pic, the shaft looks like it has a fine spline on it, so a nice little press fit with a small spot weld will work just fine then.  Nice.

[jvo]

Well, the dirtiest part of the job is done.  Not much left, but I'll have to keep a bunch of this stuff around to take measurements and patterns from.  The bottom of the back wall of the cab is worse than I thought, ( surprise, surprise,eh?) so I'll have to rebuild it from scratch up to and including the bottom of the bed.
The pile of rust and dirt on the shop floor is two inches deep, after cutting it all apart.  I think its too late to turn back now.

[jvo]

But the B pillars are not too bad on the bottom, not as bad as I expected anyway.  The back end of the roof is fine, slight bit of rust on one side of the window frame. I plan on using most of the Fairlane roof skin anyway. 
Now I need to clean up, throw some stuff away, and get some parts blasted, then start work on the frame and suspension.
Picture quality is crappy, as they're phone pics, but the parts are pretty crappy too.

[RICH MUISE]

You're definetly not shy about digging into a project, are you. This is going to be an interesting build to follow.

[jvo]

Decisions have to be made real soon.  I am going to put two inches into the cab length to take up the extra cargo bed length, maybe more.  In order to move the cab wall back, I need to put a couple inches in the area behind the doors, on the inside, hopefully pics will explain that.

[jvo]

Now, the B pillar is going to be leaned forward into the window opening.  First off is the pic of the stock Ranchero B pillar done in CAD ( cardboard aided design).  Its too bad the camera makes my design look so bad.  The angles I have drawn are actually parallel, but the camera shot makes them look way off. 
In the first pic, note that the cardboard is overlapping the door opening to show hope the door frame takes up two inches of the door opening.  I am going to use two door hardtop windows, so the window opening will start two inches farther back, as there won't be any window frame on the door, other than the small stainless trim around the glass. Hope that's clear.
Now, on the second B pillar, the extra lean forward piece is added, and note that the cardboard starts at the door opening on the bottom, in other words, I slid the cardboard pattern back two inches, cause that's where the glass will start. 
On the third pic, I added one extra inch that I am still on the fence about.  Not sure I like the B pillar that wide.  Gotta take care of a short dude for a couple hours now.  Hope that was clear enough. 

[jvo]

Well, we're back from the sandblaster with the frame, and I have to say it looks better in most respects, although I am going to have to go over about 65 feet of weld.  I have never seen such a mess of welding ever before.  I think this frame must have been built by a guy on Friday at a quarter to five on his birthday, and maybe he was nipping on the jug while at work as well.  What a mess. 
Anyway, since the rear crossmember was broken on one side, the crossmember that holds the shocks broke out in transit to the blaster.  The end had just a tiny bit of weld holding it to the side rail.  No penetration at all.

[jvo]

Both frame rails, top and bottom, the welds look like this.  Obviously wasn't done by robots in 57.  I think the guys on the assembly line must have been laughing about this one, saying they felt sorry for the poor sucker that got this car. 
So, a lot of welding over top of what is already there.  At least its nice and clean now, and not too rusty.

[RICH MUISE]

It wasn't just a bad Friday, JVO, they're pretty much all like that. That was one thing I looked at for quite a while trying to figure out if I wanted to make it pretty. I finally said nope...too much work for a frame that won't hardly ever get seen.

[Jeff Norwell]

Yea John,the welding on frames back then was not "Job 1"
Every 57 frame I have seen is poor.I agree with Rich.