I have a FMX behind my 351w, with a auto shifter on the floor. Saturday when I took the car for a test spin, and the selector sequence went from top to bottom park, reverse, neutral, low2, drive, and last low 1. Is this right or am I just crazy thinking the drive gears should be in order. Thanks, Tim
That doesnt sound right. I thought it would be drive, L2, L1
Sprink, I did too! But the proof is in the pudding! I put it in drive, the car rpm's ramped up, I went to the next gear, and the rpm's leveled out fine. I then slowed down, hit the last gear, and almost put me through the windshield! Lol. All I can think of, is that is the way a column shifter rods would have shifted it! I'm puzzled! Tim
Just a thought..could you have a linkage arm on top if it should be on the bottom, or vice-versa
Rich, the linkage arm does come over the top, but I have no room to come from the bottom. But that doesn't explain the drive sequence Tim
I'm certainly no expert here, but if is suppose to be hooked up from the bottom, and it's hooked up at the top as you say, it is engaging in the wrong direction (pushing forward when it should be pushing back)which seems to me could explain the wrong gear sequence. You need some of our more knowledgeable members to chime in here.
Is that the same tranny setup your dad had in it,or was it also changed when you did the engine swap? Posibly it was wrong, but he was aware of it and drove accordingly?
I am no expert, but could this be a trans valve body issue? I believe the valve body controls the shifting sequence and duration. Just a guess.
Here is a question for you guys. Does the kick down only operat in drive? If so, I think I know what's happening. I took it for a ride tonight, and drove it in the middle position, it acted like it wanted another gear. I slid it back to the last position, and no real difference, accept it would kick down when I slowed down. I am beginning to think that my shift rod needs to be lengthened, so it will be able to fully engage drive. This would only be true if it will only kick down in drive. Whatcha think? Tim
I am no expert, but that makes sense. When the trans kicks down it kicks into the lower gear, therefore it would only kick down while in drive.
I have a FMX in my 36, sounds like you have things lined up as they should be. True test is verify that park is in fact park, reverse is reverse, neutral is neutral. Then from a dead stop move the selector into the first drive position from neutral, accelerate at nearly full throttle and count the up shifts, should be two (low to second and second to drive). Putting the selector in the "low" position will not automaticly drop the transmission into low if you are moving until you get below a certain speed or hammer the throttle, it will stay in second forever until you slow down enough. Hope that all makes sense.
Bill
FBb, I think Bill was right about the piston I the drive is frozen or not working. I have determined that the shifter is right and the gears are in order. So the problem is the trams won't up shift in drive. It will not shift out of 1st gear, any suggestions? Thanks, Tim
Vacumn modulator, rear right hand side . Make sure you have a good vacumn signal there, check to see if there is transmission fluid in the line (bad if there is).
So FBb, if I have vacume then it is the modulator, if I have transmission fluid, call and get a quote on a rebuild, right? Thanks for the response! Tim
No need to rebuild, just replace the modulator. Sticks out the back, 5/8" wrench I think, common item redily available.
Thanks FBb! I replaced the vacume modulator, and it shifts like a champ! The car runs a lot smoother also, it seems that the nipple that the vacume hose connects to was rotted right off. Talk about a vacume leak! Thanks agian, Tim
Tim glad it is up and running now.
Glad to hear your up and running Tim. As I don't even classify myself as an amature when it comes to transmissions. Good things there are a nice group of knowledge here.
Sprink you got that right. Since my Dad passed away, these guys have filled in a lot of grey areas, that he always did for me! Speaking of grey areas, the Napa vacume modulator is adjustable, right now the shift from low2 to drive is at 3500 rpm's. Seems high to me, what should it be on a FMX? Which way do I adjust it to lower it? Thanks, Tim
Turn it out (CCW), try two full turns . If you don't like that go back to the starting point and go in one turn (CW). I'm not 100% sure CCW is to lower the shift, remember it that way, just not 100%.
Thanks FBb, what is the design shift point? Thanks, Tim
That varied from vehicle to vehicle. Trucks were at a higher RPM, lighter cars at a lower, HiPo cars higher....bottom line....what feels good to you. Partial throttle on the street you should be hitting high gear in the 35 - 40 MPH range. Full throttle is just a little different, a govrenor like device controls the shift point and that is all internal.
FBb, or anyone else that may know, while my engine is out I have to replace some gasket in my FMX. The kick down arm is leaking, and the tail shaft, where could I find these? Thanks, Tim
tried RockAuto? Or I would give Dacco Transmissions a call. http://www.daccoinc.com/ (http://www.daccoinc.com/)
The modulator is just a diaphragm operated by a vacuum signal. If you pull the vacuum line loose and it drips ATF that means the diaphragm is leaking. They are cheap, a few $$$. I forget if it takes a 9/16 or 5/8 wrench but remember I had to grind one down to fit between the trans case and the backside of the diaphragm.
Thanks, I'll give them a call. Tim
Guys, I finally pulled the engine and trans today! I was wondering about the torque converter. Should I replace it, or buy a new one. Another option is getting it rebuilt, if I replace it are there different types? It is a cruiser, not a racer. Thanks, Tim
Called the transmission shop today, they told me it would be $1,500 to rebuild my FMX! I told them it was fine, I just wanted the O rings changed, and the seals, he said that doing all that and not rebuilding would be foolish. I agree in part, but $1,500! I can buy a new c4 for $900 out of Jeggs! Tim
No need for new anything....you can change the "O" ring and the front seal at home. Put the tranny on an engine stand, remove the pan, unbolt the valve body, pull the "C" clip that holds the kick down in place, remove, replace the "O" ring, replace the clip, bolt down the valve body, new pan gasket, bolt it in place. Remove the six bolts that hold the front seal plate (torque converter is out), replace the front seal and reassemble.
Unless it is running out the shaft I would not touch the kick down leak. You can buy a butt load of tranny fluid for the cost of parts and they have a tendency to leak if you don't run them. Front seal is just too easy if it is leaking especially with the unit out of the car.
JMHO
Thanks FBb, I think that that is the way I'm going. The trans is running flawlessly, I guess that my trans shop didn't need the work. I am facing a pretty steep bill on the engine, it needs to be bored .30 over, thanks agian, Tim
FBb, I have a quick question, my vacume modulator that I removed had no washer between it and the tranny. The new one I bought never came with one, but the guy at the parts store said I needed one so it wouldn't leak. The copper one he gave me spaces it out , do I need it? If I use it will it work properly? What would we do without you ! Lol, Tim :unitedstates:
I really couldn't say, been so many years since I looked at it. If it was not leaking before it without the washer it shouldn't leak with the new one without the washer.....don't know.
Thanks FBb! I didn't know if a thick washer would affect the shifting, because the diaphragm wouldn't contact the rod. Tim :unitedstates:
FBb, or any transmission guy, I had to replace the seals on the kick down lever and shifting lever. I had to take out a couple of items to get at the nuts inside. When I pulled them off a wedge shaped shim, with notches on each end dropped out. Does anyone know where this goes? Thanks, Tim :unitedstates:
Sorry guys for crying wolf! I stepped away for an hour, went back and figured it out. Hope no one out there rushed their coffee over this! Miss my Dad, especially on mornings like this! Tim :unitedstates:
Quote from: 57 Ford Kustom on 2013-05-20 19:42
I have a FMX behind my 351w, with a auto shifter on the floor. Saturday when I took the car for a test spin, and the selector sequence went from top to bottom park, reverse, neutral, low2, drive, and last low 1. Is this right or am I just crazy thinking the drive gears should be in order.
Thanks, Tim
Are you sure the trans is an FMX? The first model year they were available was 1968, and most were SELECT-SHIFT (P - R - N - D - 2 - 1) although a few were available as DUAL RANGE (the pattern you are describing above).
Additionally, the 57 FORD had the SINGLE RANGE FORDOMATIC SELECTOR DIAL (P - R -N - D - L), whereas the 58 FORD that came through with the then new CRUISEOMATIC DIAL (DUAL RANGE) (P - R - N - D2 - D - L).
The modulator valve was not introduced until the 1961 model run. You need to ID which trans you actually have.
Kultulz, I haven't seen you on the sight for a while, glad you're here! I do have a FMX, the engine and tranny are out of a 69' cougar XR7. The problem was the metal vacume line had rusted through, so the modulator was not up shifting into D, or even D2, so, when I would put the car into D2 it would up shift. This gave me the illusion of the messed up gear sequence.
Thanks,
Tim :unitedstates: