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4.6 being installed now

Started by RICH MUISE, 2012-12-03 22:34

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Boss/Cyclone

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-11-02 20:42I'm still playing with the idea of running the air intake to the cowl and using that for the intake area rather than running it thru the wheel well near the headlight.
Did you see the way this guy did his 57?
http://spudsgarage.com/vehicles/57FordConvert/index.htm


57 Ford two door wagon
67 Shelby GT500 #2100 428, dual quads, 4speed
65 Cyclone drag car, 427, 4speed, ladder bars, etc.
64 Cyclone, Aztec Gold, 289, 4speed
66 Mustang GT fastback 347 5speed 4.22 gears
69 Mustang GT convertible 351 auto

Boss/Cyclone

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-11-02 20:42

Cyclone:...any progress on the Roush setup?

I'm collecting parts.  Got the motor mounts and a hydroboost setup.  Waiting on a back ordered front sump Canton pan that should be in next week.  I'm still have yet to order a rack&pinion kit for the steering.  I have contacted S and T, just a little short of money now.   Should order it soon.
57 Ford two door wagon
67 Shelby GT500 #2100 428, dual quads, 4speed
65 Cyclone drag car, 427, 4speed, ladder bars, etc.
64 Cyclone, Aztec Gold, 289, 4speed
66 Mustang GT fastback 347 5speed 4.22 gears
69 Mustang GT convertible 351 auto

RICH MUISE

The Mark viii driveshaft fit, although it ended up being almost an inch short of ideal. I still have 4 or 4 1/2" of spline engagement, so I hope that will be adequate. I really hope I don't have to have the driveshaft lengthened an inch. As posted earlier, I did have to replace the Mviii rear oem ujoint with one that adapted it to the '57 differential's yoke sizes.
Exhaust manifolds clear the rack and pinion steering with plenty of room. As I posted earlier, I adapted a new Markviii egr tube to reach the Mustang exhaust manifold.
I have plenty of oem tunnel clearance all around the 4r70w tranny. Cooling lines, wiring harnesses, and shifter mechanisms will have no clearance issues.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Boss/Cyclone

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-11-02 21:25
The Mark viii driveshaft fit, although it ended up being almost an inch short of ideal. I still have 4 or 4 1/2" of spline engagement, so I hope that will be adequate. I really hope I don't have to have the driveshaft lengthened an inch. As posted earlier, I did have to replace the Mviii rear oem ujoint with one that adapted it to the '57 differential's yoke sizes.
Exhaust manifolds clear the rack and pinion steering with plenty of room. As I posted earlier, I adapted a new Markviii egr tube to reach the Mustang exhaust manifold.
I have plenty of oem tunnel clearance all around the 4r70w tranny. Cooling lines, wiring harnesses, and shifter mechanisms will have no clearance issues.

Rich, have you considered changing your pinion yoke.  Ford nine inch yokes come in different lengths.  You could make up that inch there.
57 Ford two door wagon
67 Shelby GT500 #2100 428, dual quads, 4speed
65 Cyclone drag car, 427, 4speed, ladder bars, etc.
64 Cyclone, Aztec Gold, 289, 4speed
66 Mustang GT fastback 347 5speed 4.22 gears
69 Mustang GT convertible 351 auto

RICH MUISE

Nice clean look on that convertible's engine. Same concept as his intake into the cowl, except mine won't be so direct and clean looking because the Mark viii's up until '96 have the throttle body intake at the back end rather than the middle as his is. He could just go up and back, I have to go somewhat forward and make a 180. I'm playing with the air intake first, because that will determine where I can put my battery, which will determine how I run the wiring, etc. That convert. also has the cop design which really cleans things up. He just needs to get those cast aluminum valve covers stripped and polished. LOL
Good choice with S & T fabrications on the R & P.
I had entertained the idea of switching to the '97 - 98 intake manifold to get that centered throttle body, but I understand they also eliminated the dual runners when they did that...a feature I like. Probably would create problems with computer as well, so I decided not to change.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

hiball3985

Looks like you are making good progress Rich. I just question your concern about the engine being level. Isn't it more important to match the trans output shaft angle to the pinion angle?
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

RICH MUISE

Quote from: Boss/Cyclone on 2013-11-02 21:28
Rich, have you considered changing your pinion yoke.  Ford nine inch yokes come in different lengths.  You could make up that inch there.
I didn't know that...thanks much for that input. I haven't touched my differential yet. Was going to leave it for last, then pull it for shortening, trac-loc, discs,springs, sway bar,maybe a cal-trac traction bar set up. and adjusting the pinion angle if needed. I'll look into the longer yoke. Thanks again.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#232
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2013-11-02 21:43
Looks like you are making good progress Rich. I just question your concern about the engine being level. Isn't it more important to match the trans output shaft angle to the pinion angle?
see previous post. I know efi engines aren't as picky about level as carburated, but level as posible would be better for any oiling issues so I'm told. I really can't get the pinion angle checked acuratly until I get the ride height established. I think everything is at least in a workable range now though. The aluminum driveshaft is so much larger than the old oem, I can't go up any more with the tranny without cutting into the floorbrace for clearance. I'd rather not. I can't go down any without a major pita with the egr stuff...again, I'd rather not. I'm thinking at this point I shouldn't have to do either, because the angles are coming in close enough that shimming the differential should be a worse case scenerio.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

hiball3985

OK, didn't know you hadn't done the rear yet, so shimming the axle is an option.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

RICH MUISE

#234
As soon as it warms up a bit this morning, I'm gonna go get those cop valve covers.
A few 4.6 tidbits: went to the Pavilion Cruise Night in Phoenix a few weeks ago. There was a nice '60 falcon wagon there with a 4.6 sohc. Nice guy, proud of his ride he had just aquired, but didn't know a whole lot about it. In fact, he tried to convince me the engine had 3 cams! "that's what they told me" he kept saying. I tried to tell him the guy probably meant 3 valve, I mean, where would that 3rd cam be?. oh well.
There also was a real nice black '54 (?) mercury there with a 4.6 dohc. my camera wasn't working (card was full), or I would have gotten pics. He and his brothers built it, with alot of help from guys that worked for them....including the engine wiring harness. Interesting guys. They actually used the Mark viii exhaust manifolds by using the passenger side from 2 vehicles, cutting and rewelding one of them to fit the right side. He was running Magnaflows, a bit loud for me. When I see 4.6's in something at a show, I try to get to listen to it if I can...looking for that right sound.
My guess is a sohc 4.6 engine is not going to sound like a dohc? what do you guys think on that?

That low miles Mark viii I took my engine from....The guy I sold it to, and has since become a good friend, and is putting its front and rear independent suspension into a '56 Ford pickup knows the guy that originally owned it, and that guy came by his shop last week. He was surprised to see it again. The accident that doomed it ( along with the subsequent hail storm) happened as a hit and run in a restaurant parking lot while he was in eating diner! He had bought it new, and said he could count the nights on one hand that car wasn't in a garage. So, it turns out I was just the second owner.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

It took me a total of 4 hours to get those valvecovers off, but I got them.... @20 bucks for the pair, including the coil covers. Yeah!! I also got the coil electrical connectors, and the resistor type grounding blocks. (the coils wire harness, or as much of it as I could get) left the actual coils there...gonna get new ones. Spent 1/2 hour playing with stripping and polishing a small area just to see what I was in for. Very high quality surface finish on the castings...typical with investment castings as opposed to sand castings. Just gonna be real tedious getting into all the cracks and crevases, but the accesible area I worked on polished up great. I'm gonna guess 20 hours a cover. Got to check into what's available for arbor mounted abrasives I can use in a die grinder.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

some pics I forgot to post that go along with the posts a few days ago. That tranny mount is Anchor #3038, btw. I sloted it for the tranny bolts,, and redrilled new holes thru the crossmember for the mount's studs. No issues with the studs being too close to the oem crossmember bracket.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Frankenstein57

Lookin good Rich, that looks like the keeper in there, no more mock up block?

RICH MUISE

#238
Thanks Mark...much appreciated. Too many years waiting to get to this point. That's the keeper...in once and done thanks to the mock-up. Lots of pics and info starting a few pages back in this thread.
My next projects to tackle: Getting the core support/radiator installed so I can start working on the electric fans, ac, ps, and tranny condensors located. Then I can figure what I need for lines, hoses, etc.
Also first on the to-do list is figuring where my air intake is gonna run...that will determine which side of the car I have my battery on, and of course how/where  to run the wiring. I really don't want the battery in the trunk, so it may end up on the driver's side with a modified wheelwell to accommodate. If it stays on the passenger side, I'll still have to modify that wheelwell to move the battery away from the head/valvecover
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

I've been playing with the top radiator hose dilema a bit, think I found the solution. I picked up some stainless flexible radiator hoses to begin with, but the top radiator hose is gonna take some additional work. The Mark viii top engine to radiator hose comes off the engine pointing in a downward angle, and pretty close to the radiator inlet, which point upwards a bit. I picked up a spare engine tube assembly, and cut off the corner with the tube pointing down, flipped it over and rewelded it pointing upwards. I think this will get the angles/direction close enough to work. The tube assembly is a slip fit/o-ring arrangement in the engine, and that front sleeve between the bleed valve and the hose outlet is also an o-ring slip fit affair, made welding easy as the two halves can be rotated, or slipped in and out a little to adjust. LOL..after I did this, I looked at Claiborn's old pic album to see what he did, and it looks like he came up with the same solution.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe