Guys,
I need another set of eyes here. I've always had trouble with heat being generated from my heater core in my 57 during the summer with the heat valve shut off. I open the vents to negate it but I'd like to not have it coming in the passenger compartment. I have seen a lot of old cars with petcocks mounted on the hoses to shut the flow of water from the intake. Do you guys with 57's have heat from the heater core coming into the passenger compartment also, even with the heater valve shut off
I've made a drawing showing the way my heater hoses are hooked up. Figure "A" is the way a 63 Thunderbird was hooked up and the way I did my 57. Figure "B" is the way the 63 Galaxie was and is now hooked up. I haven't drove it during the summer yet so I don't have any idea if it is a better way. WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK. Also, the return line going to the water pump. Is there suction on this line created by the water pump. I've never had a reason before to find out. Jim
Jim:
I believe my 57's hooked up to the dealer installed heater according to your "B" drawing. See attached photo.
Bob
57 AGIN
Jim In diagram A they are using the heater hose in lieu of the bypass hose usually run between the intake mfld and the water pump. I would think you could get some warming of the water in your return line with this set up. With the engine bypass hose installed at the water pump, drawing B should allow no heat into the heater core when the valve is closed. One thing you might want to check is the condition of your shutoff valve. I have found a surprising number of them that will leak when closed and a very little leaked hot water into your heater core will be noticeable.
57 imposter,
The water pump bypass is hooked up. I just didn't include it in the drawing. It's a normal stock water pump. I think what I'll do is change the intake fitting from a dual port to a single port and hook it up like figure "B". If I still get heat from the heater core I'll put a valve in like Bob's between the intake and carburetor spacer. You can't imagine how hot it get's when it's 90 degrees outside and the heats on when your sitting in traffic. Jim PS Bob, you're car looks so nice. Are you sure you want to drive it. LOL
does your water pump have 2 fittings? if so is the top out or the bottom.
Allen,
You just have two ports on an FE water pump for heater hose. One is a bypass line that goes into the intake. The other is on the top right side for the heater core return hose. Jim
Jim both the 62 I had and my 65 Bird have the cut off valve in the return line not the supply line as your drawing. Not saying either of mine are the right way, just an obsevation.
If it doesn't matter which line the shut-off valve is on, wouldn't a supply line cut-off be better in case of leakage problems with the heater. I'm just thinking if you were on a road trip and something happened, you could shut the supply line down and fix it when you got home...or not??
oops ment 3 outlets and also ment on a small block.
Guys,
I ordered a new cable controlled inline shut-off valve from Summit to replace the one I have. I also have a manual inline shut-off coming. As far as which line to put the shut-off in, the supply side is correct, at least the information I've read says so. But in my case it doesn't matter. I've got a Y-pipe in the return line of the Heater Core. That Y-pipe recieves circulating hot water from the intake side. To put it in perspective it's like this. You're sitting in a tub of bath water when you decide the waters too cold. You turn on the hot water and you find you can't leave your feet down there because the water's too hot. But, your butt is still cold. It takes a few minutes but soon the temp of all the water is the same and it's hotter. I believe I'm suffering more heat in my heater core because the circulating hot water at the Y-pipe is a constant heat source (180 degrees) . I think I'll install the new cable controlled shut-off and hook it up like figure "B". Jim PS If the shut-off were on the return line you've also got 180 degree water feeding the heater core as in the bath tub effect.
just my 2 cents worth, when i first got my car one of the first things i did was change the heater water hoses and heater control valve, dosen't matter if i have a conv and never use the heater, i don't have any problems with heat coming in the car, may be its just normal engine heat you feel, like i said, my 2 cents, jerry
Got another question: Does any air come into the passenger compartment from the outside other than the manually controlled vents. It's been a while but I don't remember the heater or defroster getting air from the outside. Jim
Jim:
The heater draws air from the grille in front of the windshield, same as the vents.
John
John,
Is it a square box type affair with a rubber seal. Jim
Something I learned here a few months ago..whether or not your heater draws air from the outside depends on whether or not it's a factory installed heater. The dealer installed heater had the delete plate in the top (cowl)hole of the firewall and did not draw air from the cowl or the outside. Those of you with the factory installed heaters that used both firewall holes drew fresh air from the cowl/grille as John stated.
Rich
I found a picture of the heat box. I can't believe I forgot how it was hooked up. I'm getting old guys. Jim
I don't think either one of your drawings are correct.
Go here. http://concoursparts.com/pic/pdfcatalogs-file7.pdf page 117, this shows how the heater is to be set up.
My car had factory air and then someone replaced the heater/air conditioner unit with a factory heater unit. I have to figure it out too. My core did not have the valve in it, hot water ran through it all the time and I was "cooked" in the car the first time I drove it. I found an inline heater valve on eBay for use on 5/8" hose, bought a control cable and connected it to the control unit on the dash and it works fine. In the off position, no water flows through the core. It is not the way Ford designed it, but I did not want to buy all the parts to make my heater work the way it was set up at the factory. There are a lot of parts involved. My installation is very simple and it works.
Rich
Rich,
That's the way I use mine. I bought a longer cable and connected it to the dash control just like the original but it goes to the control valve in the 5/8" entry radiator hose. My heater core is welded up to just have an inlet and outlet with the factory valve not used. Today I installed a shutoff valve coming out of the carb spacer. That will discontinue the hot water recirculating close to the outlet on the heater core. I think the reason my heater core stayed hot was because I had this hot water so close to that outlet. With the outlet being the top hose, the heater core never looses its water. So with the Y connection I had (hose coming from the carb spacer being 3" from that outlet), it had to be heating up water inside the heater core. I'll try it and see what happens this summer. The winter's OK, I'll just leave the shutoff valve open during the winter. Jim
While we are talking about heater systems, I have a question about the vent system.
See http://concoursparts.com/pic/pdfcatalogs-file7.pdf page 122.
I bought all the rubber parts to seal up my vent system, but I have one part that I bought that I can't figure out exactly where/how to install. It is B7A-7001852. I have the B7A-7001998B on the end of the short oval duct and that seems to seal fine between the duct and the oval hole in the firewall. I also put new rubber on the flapper valve that is controlled by the cable from the dash. I don't see what the ...1852 rubber does. Any hints?
Rich
Mine only has one big seal, not two. It's a b____ getting it to mate up properly too. Jim I'd hate to put two at that spot.