body meets frame for the first time in five years!
Unbelievable! That is pretty damn nice. Now the for the fun stuff....just a little stressful assembling with fresh paint, I sure was! HRD
Wow that black paint is lookin good!
I see holes for trim, which trim package are you using? I cant tell the model of your car.
Body style is Custom. The hockey sticks are polished and all the chrome done. Business coupe side glass. Seams filled, drip rails shaved and no FORD letters on the front and modified hood. No front and back glass stainless. Flame Red '65 Thunderbird interior.
Scratches: It's a driver and I've resolved myself to the reality of chips and scratches. With base/clear coat and no metal flake, it's repairable. Never the less, I'll use a ton of masking during assembly.
Very nice, that's going to be a mean looking rig !
Good job! On to the next five! :-)
Looking great Gary....congrats. Is that your new shop?
I'm anxious to see it together, I like the hockey stick addition...are they available in the Custom's length, or did you have to shorten? I'm also anxious to see how the front and rear glass looks with no trim...not sure I've seen that approach.
Rich, believe he's referring to the base custom trim (hockey sticks) rather than the sill plate trim found on Fairlanes. Have found that both those trims being called hockey sticks, going to guess it might be a regional thing.
Zap- :unitedstates:
...yep standard base Custom side molding.
That's the old garage. Instead of walking from one end of the barn apartment to the other end shop, I'm driving 17 miles each way to work on the '57. The trusses for the new garage are laying in the front yard of the new place. The contractor is also a farmer...may be luck to get in the new garage before snow.
Awesome lookin ride. I like your engine as well.
Just Awesome GARY!
That is amazing. Great work. What you plan on for engine?
Quote from: sprink88 on 2014-05-22 06:28
That is amazing. Great work. What you plan on for engine?
The engine is 99%+ ready. It needs a little header work, plumbing, and wiring. The engine is 460 based 557CI, MotorSport ported heads, Comp Cams full roller, Weber intake, Inglese throttle bodies, EFI, Flex Fuel, 750HP on E85.
That bad boy will make "get down" the road.....as my dad used to say...It's a gutsie little thing...
Badass-Gnarly-Wicked...
Can't wait to see it started and melting the asphalt!
Is that an Englese/Weber setup? Stroked 460? Looks good whatever it is!
Randy
Quote from: rmk57 on 2014-05-22 18:32
Is that an Englese/Weber setup? Stroked 460? Looks good whatever it is!
Randy
Yep. Check #13 for details.
WOW! Nice work.
Gary
You sure do some nice work. Your years of experience shows by the caliber of what I see. Do you have a tentative date when you will be taking a test drive?
My goal to assemble the car with all the parts...finished or not...for the move to the new garage late this summer. Once assembled and all the parts accounted for, the surplus parts can be sold. If I can drive it great, then I'll disassemble unfinished parts over the winter, finish and reassemble for next summer. Maybe not the best plan but with the move, I have to account for everything before it goes. Nothing worst than looking for parts wondering where its at or did I sell it??
I know what you mean by taking them apart and putting them together several times. That's what I have had to do also with the ones that I have built over the years.
Mocking up the interior one more time before I oil up the sewing machines. Good thing I did. I found a couple of things that were not ready. Close up shows the PVC I used as tack strip. Finally back on the floor to start wiring and plumbing.
...more
...more
I like the t-bird interior parts, the rear trim by the package shelf looks good. Is the rear seat from the bird? I spent half the day in an old school bone yard that is meeting its maker, I tried to buy a 58 bird console & seats, but they are trying to sell the car whole. I have a bunch of photos to do a post, but I need some help on that one. Mark
Great work Gary! I love the T Bird interior!
Tim :unitedstates:
Looking good Gary. I was wondering about that back seat also.I sure wish I knew how to sew..there were things on mine I sure would have done differently.
Your at the point now where all the subtle blending, standing back and looking at flow lines, etc, will make all the difference in the world and make or break your project. No doubt in my mind you're going to make it outstanding.
Quote from: Frankenstein57 on 2014-06-21 22:17
... Is the rear seat from the bird? I spent half the day in an old school bone yard that is meeting its maker, I tried to buy a 58 bird console & seats, but they are trying to sell the car whole. Mark
The donor car was a '65 Thunderbird. It took several donors to find all rust free parts. The package tray was added on to merge Tbird to '57 Custom. Surprising how close the rear seat fit. The back cushions would have needed no modifications but with the tubs, some adjustments were necessary. The bottom cushion is the original width. Shim blocks are required to support the bottom of the frame. The bucket seats are from a '63 TBird.
As far as picking the bone yard, TAKE THE WHOLE CAR!! I know it is easy to say but TBird parts are very marketable. It's a huge amount of work but I sold all the extra TBird parts. As soon as I get my interior finished, I'll sell the remaining TBird parts.
I thought about that, I really like the late 50.s early 60's t-birds. They are asking 1500 obo. The car is amazingly clean, from what I can see its to nice to cut up, Mark
cool...that 58 bird will probably have adjustable rockers arms on its FE, the ones I got were. 59 were non-adjustable. I'd grab those too if not getting the whole car.
I have a 390 out of a 74 long bed F-250 with adjustable rockers. Has a C-6 behind it. Came out because of gas milage for a 302 and was handed down to me (brother-in-law, milage change would never pay for the swap, people need to do simple math). Didn't know they came in anything other then HiPo engines or was it just a pile of left overs from days gone by?
I think I might have some adjustable rockers laying around, either from the 427 stuff, or 390 stuff.
Not a lot of car work done over the last 1-1/2 years. Life stuff came first. Sold the house on the farm. Lived in the barn for near a year while finding, remodeling, and moving into the 'down sizing' house. Built a new garage at the DS house and moved most of the barn stuff. The old barn was 4000 square feet and new is only 1200. Some things are just not going to make the cut.
1) old barn
2) studio apartment in the barn
3) happy wife in front of DS house (you know...happy wife...happy life)
4) new garage
Moved the tools and hoist into new garage this spring. First priority was to get something to drive. Got the Raunch Wagon a few years ago. Drove it last summer but the transmission retired last fall. First project in the new garage was to rebuild the Fordomatic. Most of the summer was spent test cruising and making the Raunch Wagon more reliable. Put several thousand miles on it so far this summer. It's a survivor...just fix what needs fixin'.
1) Raunch Wagon
2) " "
3) Getting cooler...today was finally time to update the Raunch Wagon's heater. Squeezed into the garage for new water pump, hoses, clamps, thermostat, and swap dealer installed heater for factory heater with new core and water valves.
I moved the '57 Custom to the new garage.
1) started installing enough DynaMat so I could install the Vintage Air Gen IV Magnum and Power Window Specialties' wipers
2) PWS wipers in the cowl
3) wiring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4) more
more
Great looking garage. I wish I was suffering to get by on 1200 sq ft. Great looking cars, house and best of all a great looking happy wife...what more could a man need.
How long do you figure before the Custom is ready for the road?
I had a goal of plumbed, wired, and running (not drivable) by this fall. I'm sooo slow and the leaves are starting to turn color. The spring goal is not realistic. Maybe next spring.
Gary,WOW! You got it made!!
Quote from: gasman826 on 2015-09-20 17:12
I had a goal of plumbed, wired, and running (not drivable) by this fall. I'm sooo slow and the leaves are starting to turn color. The spring goal is not realistic. Maybe next spring.
What the mind sees as a schedule and what reality hands us comes from two different play books.....still haven't figured out how to marry the two!
Agreed Bill... after finishing both my 32's.... the whole process started in 2000 with the birth of our Daughter and the death of my father.15 years to do both cars?.... I better hurry up and/or win the lottery.
Finished plumbing the brakes:
Finished the Power Window Specialities (PWS) wipers and installed the cowl. If you go this way...spray a little color on the wiper cable tube so it won't show through the cowl. Cowl installs much harder with new rubber and thicker paint.
Starting the exhaust
Flowmaster generic kit -- 3" stainless
QDP electric cutouts
Finished exhaust. I need to remove the headers to finish weld and send them out for ceramic power coating and polish.
Looking good, Gary. It's a project coming up real quick for me as well, so I appreciate the timing of your pics.
Wow. You are some kind of fabricator. That stuff looks awesome. Is there any reason why the cutouts are spotted so far back? I thought they would have been "lest restricted" closer to the elbow. Anyway, You The man. :)
Thanks! Maybe a better picture of why the cutouts are so far back.
Oh, I see what you did there. My mistake. First Class.
Updated the rear view mirror and installed the windshield garnish moldings. The mirror is a '60 Thunderbird repop. If you have the upper ball mirror mount style, this is a bolt-in. '60 Thunderbird mirrors are few and far between. If you find one, the chrome or mirror or both will be bad. Others have found other solutions. This was the only one I found with day/nite feature and was a bolt-in.
Looks good, Gary. This is the first time I've noticed the Ball joint style...was that oem? Mine had the ball at the back of the mirror. Are we looking at another '57 some had this, some had that?
YEP! I took it out of a '57 Custom that I was cutting up for parts. It screwed into the header using the same screws in the same holes.
I would have made an adapter for the other style.
Dash is almost ready to go in. Still plugging along on the wiring.
Nice nice nice. I like the "Custom" touch. Did you redo the chrome and vinyl, or was it in that good of shape? Looks all new...old, but new.
Upholstered, painted, rebuilt, buffed the stainless, some restored and chromed, some chrome is 'five footers' for now. I'll remove and chrome next winter. Picture is where the dash started.
Gary, that dash is true automotive art from concept to execution. If I had a hat I would tip it to you sir! Simply stunning.
Agreed...that's outstanding.
As Tony the Tiger used to say "it's GREAAAAAAAAAT !"
Zapato :unitedstates:
That is really cool! Very nice work!
Thanks for your thoughts. I'm venting today: if you don't like wiring, rethink EFI. I'm pretty much through the issues but it has taken weeks.
Wow...my efi seemed so simple compared to building your own harness. "weeks"...it would take me 2 years and probably never run right. Then again mine still isn't running "right"....just good enough to be put on the back burner while I'm addressing other issues.
I MAY use an aftermarket EFI on my FE at some point. I can't imagine using a factory setup.... too much for me. I got aggravated day before yesterday trying to get my surround system set up!!!!! :003:
Most of the issues came from intergrating systems with other vendor harnesses. The FAST main harness is too universal by attempting to have wires and connections for too many accessories. There are options for NOS (up to 4 stages of NOS), torque converter lockup, crank sensor/cam sensor/ or distributor, A/C controls, fan controls, and more and more. If some options are NOT used, circuits have to be grounded to avoid noise interference. Once I was into the harness, I eliminated unused wires and connectors and custom fit the harness to my car. I've connected the Dual-Sync distributor, MSD 6AL CD box, Weldon fuel pump controller, Vintage Air, Ron Francis chassis harness, LS6 injectors and even the Pioneer radio harness all together with no left over wires or connectors.
two steps backward. Removed the headers and sent out for ceramic powder coating. Just got them back and reinstalled. Tight fit.
Wiring nearing completion. Testing systems. Piecing back together.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2016-05-28 16:44
Wiring nearing completion. Testing systems. Piecing back together.
As always, very nice work sir. I look forward to seeing the finished console as I have a '66 T'Bird Console for my Ranchero. I'm interested to see how you finish "The Top " of the console........... the area around the shifter etc., that runs to the front of he console.
John
Several years ago I ordered all the gaskets, seals and window channels that I could find (get'em while you can). A couple of years ago I had glass cut and installed in the front, rear, quarter, and vent glass. When I assembled the vent to the division bar, I found the rigid, division channel replacements fit but fit poorly. I had ordered a division channel kit from REPOPS. The channels were pre-cut and pre-drilled correctly but the channels were too proud when installed into the stainless vent window division bar. The replacement channels were 9/16"x1/2" and need to be 1/2"x1/2". Since I ordered these years ago, I cann't very well return them even if I could find the paperwork. Over the summer, I have looked at every restored '57. Nearly everyone of them had the same condition...the division channel stainless bead stood away from the division bar. Now this doesn't affect the performance of anything. It just isn't right. I asked owners about this and most were oblivious. A few owners said they also used a kit. The owners of the correct fitting ones said they had used bulk rigid division channel cut to size and drilled their own holes. That catches you up to where I'm at shopping for division channel. I'm leery of ordering another kit so I'm focusing on a supplier for 1/2"x1/2" stainless beaded, rigid division channel. What has been your experience?
Gary, Now I am a little concerned about mine, I bought them a while back as well so I went and measured them. The outside dimension on the beaded part of the original ones still in my is car is a .62" give or take. That looks close to the ones I bought, they are .612 wide. The overall depth is .518" to the top of the bead. The channel width is 1/2". They look on the surface to be the right part. They were not part of a kit but they have holes drilled in them???? I don't remember (not surprised) where I got 'em so now I am thoroughly confused.....????
Try Steele Products. They have large selection runs & fuzzies with dimensions.
I got mine from Classic Auto Parts in Oklahoma City. I just went out and double checked mine and the fit of the beaded channel with fuzzies that fits into the stainless division bar is perfect. There are no gaps between the bead and the bar, which if I am reading your statement correctly, is the problem you have...??? I've been recommending C A P for years and except for the problem I had with one anti rattler strip's mounting clips scratching my glass, I have had good luck and good feedback.
Who is "repop's"? First I've ever heard of that source.
I have been relining them. Clean the old stuff out of the channel. Lacquer thinner and a small course wire brush get all the old stuff out very well. Then take the "loop" portion of self sticky Velcro and work into place. Be advised, patience is required. I use a screen lock strip roller to seat the Velcro in the corner. Steady hand as the sticky stuff is really sticky! After it is seated use a razor blade to cut the extra off. The blade will find it's way between the stainless bead and the body of the channel. Roll that again and smile.
I'll post a couple of pictures of the Edsel. Did this on the 66 Falcon, a 62 Bird, the 65 Bird and will be doing it with the Ranchero.
Reline them...good option. I've already torn them apart so I'm still looking.
REPOPS http://www.repops.com/about.cfm
Steele Rubber has a helpful option. Email them your make and model, they'll send you a custom parts list. I found the invoice for the seals and gaskets...$1000.00!!!
I just reviewed the Classic Auto Parts catalog. I'm always impressed with almost every catalog carries most of the same parts but almost every one of them has a part that no one else offers. The rigid, division channel for '57s is listed at $10.95 each. That's really cheap!!! I received universal, rigid division bar channel 1/2"by 1/2" today with my Steele Rubber order for the vent window seals. I'll have to cut to length and drill holes. Steele Rubber's vent seals are the most expensive but I've used them before and they fit really good. Don't want to mess with success. I have an extra set of right and left door hardware. So I have disassembled everything, cleaned, media blasted, Eastwood Zinc coated, polished the stainless. I found one of the vent window pins is broke. Back to the farm to get another door and tomorrow I'll strip out that door hoping to find a good vent window frame.
smoothed drip rail and eliminated window stainless look
Looks very very good Gary.I noticed on your header pics what seems to be an electric cut out?. if so. did you use a Doug Thorley unit?.. from what i have heard.although expensive. they work.... and no failure..as other cheaper brands... Maybe its not a cut out at all.. ha ha ......
3-1/2" electric cutouts straight off the headers by Quick Time Performance. Real dust blowers. Doug's were too big.
The "V" band clamps shown in Gary's photo work great. I would highly recommend them to anyone building a new exhaust system. They are not cheap, but still a small cost factor to what you will spend building, and coating a new system. No gaskets, or seals, they come apart, and go back together for many years, and NOT LEAK!
I had one on my race car, and a pair on my High Boy.
I have them on both '57s. I can remove the exhaust pipes and mufflers in one piece and in a minute!
This comment is directed to others that might still be in the "planning stage" for their new exhaust systems. If you plan to have your exhaust system ceramic coated, be aware that not every coater has an "unlimited size" high temperature oven. This stuff is not your normal plastic powder coating material that will melt in a 400 degree oven. Check with your coater for size limitations.
My coater is a large volume shop that does lots of piston coating and headers for many of the local manufactures, BUT they had a limit to the maximum exhaust length they could fit into their high temp oven. That length was five feet. But, by splitting my exhaust system just behind the mufflers with the "V" band clamps, I was able to keep all the parts under the five foot limit. This was on my '32 High Boy project.
I went for the satin black color, and it looked exactly the same from day one, until I sold the car six years later. We had bright silver color on our race car exhaust, and would get oil burned on it sometimes. Just a little WD-40 and a 3M Scotch bright pad would knock it right off, spray it down with Simple Green to remove the WD-40 oil film, and hose it off with water, done.
Ceramic coating is great, IMO.
HUGE MILESTONE!!! Doors! All new glass, seals, channels, handles, and power windows.
Off for upholstery.
Congrats! The car is really looking awesome. Paint looks fantastic. Any projections for the first road test? It's been a long road for ya with all the moving and new garage interruptions, not to mention the time spent with a new wife!
Congrats Gary!!! well done and an amazing goal reached!.... your lucky... it's snowing here.................boo.....
:unitedstates: It looks fantastic.5 years well spent.Racton
Thanks for all your thoughts. Since it is going to the upholstery jail, I chose not to speculate a return date.
Stunning!
It's looking great and it's the right color too.
Even better than that, Jay...............SHINEY right color.
Wow that looks nice!
I have to agree with everyone else...very nice!
At first I wasn't to keen on the wheels, but now there really starting to grow n me.
Car has a nice stance, looks good.
I started this frame-off paint job more than eleven years ago! For more than 3-1/2 years ago, it went to upholstery jail. At first, it was a joke. I have almost forgot that I own this car. More than four months ago, my tolerance ran out. I interview other upholsterers to finish. I didn't expect anyone to get in the middle of this mess. Two upholsterers are familiar with the high-end quality of the work so far and are willing to finish in the same style and quality. So here it comes, the owner will not allow me to remove my car from his shop. He will not return my calls, will not give me a bill and his health is bad so the business is closed. I can't let this go any longer and just made an appointment with my lawyer. Sucks!!!!
That really sucks! A lot of cars are lost to such things. Not only cars but also parts. An Uncle of mine lost the trans from his 58 convertible. He took it to a shop and the owner died. The heirs sold the parts for scrap metal.
Good luck on getting things worked out!
What a nightmare. It does sound like a slam dunk case to get your car back though if an agreement on price can be reached on the work he's done already. Good luck.
Wow, maybe a letter from your lawyer explaining fees and court costs will be enough to shake it loose. I assume you had an agreed on price for the complete job. I would think a quote from your next upholsterer to finish the job should/could be deducted from the original amount. Was it paid in full when you brought it in, hopefully just a deposit and he completed enough to cover that.
Sad world we live in today. I was just reading a Hamb thread about a guy who paid 13k to have a 394 '64 olds high performance engine built complete. It took 6 years to finally get an engine, and it's not only not a high performance motor, at best it's an earier 394 block that nothing fits from the hp version.
The guy is doing a factory restoration on a Starfire that had originally the hp motor. Not sure why the original block wasn't sent to the builder for rebuild.
Gary, don't give up or give in. I had about the same kind of thing happen with a paint shop. Had a friend of mine finish up the work and it looks great. I'm old and get cranky real easy, about the only thing that works on me anymore is my mouth. But when my sons and I showed up to get the car, and they don't take any S--- from any one, he even helped us load it on the trailer. Now you will have leagal fees. These kind of deals really get me fired up, hope you go for his nuts. Good luck and take care, Alvin
Gary
That's absolutely horrible. I too have heard horror stories like that. Hopefully your lawyer can get the ball rolling
and get your car back. Jay
Gary
Are you making any progress in getting your car out of that upholstery shop ?
How do you know for absolute sure that the upholsterer still has it? I would hate to think that it is overseas somewhere.
Strange things happen .
My police background makes me very very suspicious.
Jay
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2020-05-18 20:49
Gary
Are you making any progress in getting your car out of that upholstery shop ?
How do you know for absolute sure that the upholsterer still has it? I would hate to think that it is overseas somewhere.
Strange things happen .
My police background makes me very very suspicious.
Jay
Mine too....was wonderin' about that...and probably Joe as well.
Thanks for asking. Sadly, the upholsterer passed. His widow immediately sent word to pickup the Custom. She has a friend acting as caretaker who contacted me to set an appointment to gather up parts and materials. Finding everything was very challenging because everything was scattered all over the 6000 sf shop. Some things were never found but the car is home. The missing, new Wilwood master cylinder is a mystery in its self. Another upholstery shop has committed to finishing the job with one reservation...I have to reassemble the interior. I am busy locating the missing parts and assembling the interior. I am also finding unfinished wiring and testing all interior systems. Now, courtesy lights, speakers, power windows, and illumination are all working. I am hoping to ship the car within the next couple of weeks.
C-19 is really impacting all areas of the economy. Several businesses are not offering any services. Some are offering limited services. Before I order anything, I call to confirm they are open, working, inventory, and shipping. Shipping is a crap shoot. The ship times are 2-4 and more times longer and the tracking isn't working or meaningless. The wife and I are so very fortunate to be retired and not worried about food, bills or going to work. I work in my home shop and don't see people for days so this is no big change for me. Since I still have the occasional errand to run for food and supplies, I observe a new level of security. I am old and a member of the protected class. I do NOT expect nor trust the rest of humanity to change their lives to protect me. It is my job to protect me and mine. I wear a mask not to protect me but out of respect for others. I carry disinfectant to spray down the gas pumps, door handles and key pads. The inside of my car is a safe zone so everything is sprayed before it goes into the car. The same with our house. We'll take care of ourselves and the rest of the world can go on.
Now I'm really relieved knowing that you have your car back in your own possession. You must be releived. As you progress, You will probably find out that there are more pieces missing from your car. The important thing is that you have your car again. Hopefully you will be able to tie up all the loose ends and progress will go smoothly with the new upholstery shop
Most of us guys are older and in the same boat with that C 19 problem. We have to be very careful when we go out and wear protection. I do our food shopping very early in the morning when there are less people in the store. Most likely we will not go back
to normal after C 19 is gone. It will probably be a long time before we see guys doing such a simple thing as shaking hands.
Not me. I am a numbers kinda guy. Less than 1% of the country, or the earth's entire population has been affected by this thing directly. Three BILLION+ people live in this country. Seven BILLION+ on the planet.
There was a similar virus back in '68...and no one hardly knew/knows it. Didn't stop the gathering of hippy freaks in some place called Woodstock did it? Government stayed out of it, and we didn't have the "social" media we have today...which is to say we didn't have the reams of misinformation we have today terrifying everyone.
I am still doing as I always have...and am just to old and too disinterested in changing my ways.
I...am a rebel! :003:
Quote from: gasman826 on 2020-05-19 09:04
Thanks for asking. Sadly, the upholsterer passed. His widow immediately sent word to pickup the Custom. She has a friend acting as caretaker who contacted me to set an appointment to gather up parts and materials. Finding everything was very challenging because everything was scattered all over the 6000 sf shop. Some things were never found but the car is home. The missing, new Wilwood master cylinder is a mystery in its self. Another upholstery shop has committed to finishing the job with one reservation...I have to reassemble the interior. I am busy locating the missing parts and assembling the interior. I am hoping to ship the car within the next couple of weeks.
Has this been posted somewhere in the past? I ask because as I read this, I realized I already knew it. I am sorry if this comes across as being a smart a$$.
Yes, it must have been, because I already knew it also, just not some of the details........missing Master cylinder??? That's weird for being in an upholstery shop. Sounds like they maybe were just starting to part it out. Glad the man's wife saw fit to get things cleared up right away.
Yes, getting the car back was discussed before. Rather than do a search and post a link, I was lazy and just needed to vent again. The C-19 comments are new in my effort to support people getting back to work and those of us concerned will work it out. I've always had a little bit of a clean thing. When I was in dealership, my tools were cleaned, my clothes were mostly clean, in between jobs I washed my hands...I was not getting in a customers new Lincoln with white leather and leave greasy hand prints behind. At one time, I took chefs classes along with restaurant management classes. After seeing how easily stuff could pass through a commercial kitchen, I am uncomfortable with some things I've seen in restaurants. I don't even want to start on salad bar and buffet sneeze guards! If I were younger and had a job, I would be going to work. Since I'm retired, I have the luxury of time and resources to take care of myself.
Sorry if I brought up something that had already been covered. For personal reasons, these days I do not get the opportunity to look at the computer or play with my cars as often as I was able to do in the past years. The last I read was that Gary's car was in the upholstery shop. The shop keeper was ill and someone did not want to return his car.
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2020-05-19 17:37
Sorry if I brought up something that had already been covered. For personal reasons, these days I do not get the opportunity to look at the computer or play with my cars as often as I was able to do in the past years. The last I read was that Gary's car was that it was in the upholstery shop. The shop keeper was ill and someone did not want to return his car.
:006:
Just read through this whole thread, two things; Gary's car is phucking beautiful, second, wow! what a roller coaster ride. Glad to see it it came to a somewhat happy ending. :thumbsup:
Ride Tech's Ride PRO with height sensors going in...well kinda'. Waiting for parts!
Interior together and functioning. Ready to go to another upholstery shop. Waiting for the next time slot!
Talk about your one step forward and two or more backward...new pulleys, new clutch fan, refreshed fan blade, modified the custom core support to install the biggest Griffin universal radiator, modified the shroud, new hoses, new, bigger AC condensor, new AC receiver dryer, AC lines hooked up and vacuum pulled, added coolant, distilled water and coolant additive. Just for the heck of it, I pressurized the cooling system. The next morning, one tiny drop on the floor. Even though the cooling system hasn't been used in over ten years, corrosion has still been working on the nearly 50 year old timing chain cover. Tore it all back apart and ordered new, timing cover, new dipstick tube, new water pump steel plate and gaskets. Again...waiting for parts!
Interior looks awesome, Gary. Can't be too much left?
Worth saying again...........it's just an overall awesome over-the-top build. Bet your smiling alot being able to work on it again, and in your new shop!
Thanks for your thoughts. Pictures are worth more than a 1000 words but pictures can lie like a dog. I was careful NOT to show the unfinished left door card, rear seat and carpet. I took a couple of pictures while setting in the back seat. Sometimes I just stare at it and have to crack the whip to get back to work. Parts delivery is getting to be a problem. I called RideTech to follow up on a order that is three weeks over due. I could have driven there and back in an afternoon.
I learned a long time ago that any place I can drive to in order to get my parts is going to be cheaper, faster and more reliable. I have driven to Portland OR to get parts before because I could do it cheaper than the shipping, and twice as fast.
I too look at shipping with respect to cost, time and timing when deciding. Leaving this morning to deliver the bumpers for chrome. No idea what shipping is but the place is only 2 1/2 hours away. With gas the price it is no way would shipping work.....that and I'm retired!
And sometimes all you need as an excuse for a long roadtrip is a $20 part!
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2020-06-10 07:22
And sometimes all you need as an excuse for a long roadtrip is a $20 part!
AMEN!!! Freedom of the road is oh so enjoyable! :burnout:
Back together and moving forward again. New timing chain cover, new water pump plate, new dipstick tube, new upturned thermostat housing, new hoses, new Griffin radiator, new condenser, new receiver dryer, new AC hard lines, new clutch fan hub, newly modified fan shroud and newly revamped core support. AC holding 30".
With a little spare time, installed the front two ride height sensors for the automatic air bag system.
...finished up the rear air ride sensors, solenoids, pump and tank.
Automatic air ride system is up and working. Finally cleaned up the trunk.
Looking good Gary! (http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/happy/happy0167.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-sad-smileys.php)
Refreshed the ADDCO sway bar poly bushings and added OEM brackets.
Man! And to think that I was worried that those 750 horses would be sucking up(down) 8 tennis balls....
Looking good!
Hand balls fit better (until the screens went in) than tennis balls and don't blow away.
I like that setup. Will be a open-hood worthy at car shows.
It was pretty rare stuff when I started but fairly common now.
IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!
Doing some tuning.
Both links show an error Gary.... bawl
(https://i.imgur.com/lEsH4nF.png)
Seriously Gary, try this; quick, easy & free:
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=7624.0
Baby steps. First time the fenders have been seriously bolted on in nearly twelve years.
Looks great; nice neat job hiding the plumbing/wiring on the EFI.
Going to be an awesome ride Gary. Interior looks great. Body looks great. Engine bay looks great. Engine looks.....SCARY!!
Outstanding! I know the smile is going to stay for a long time!
I kinda thought I was on the downhill side of things. Well that was just wrong! The paint is too thick. Things that fit and had adjustment left are way too tight and no adjustment. One good thing about COVID, neighbors are always home. I got a neighbor to help me carry the hood out of the basement. I carried the hood and put it on all the time by myself. Between age and shiny paint, I wasn't taking a chance. On a body stand in the shop, I added blind, J-nuts for the hood hinges, installed the chrome, and used the cherry picker to install the hood. Note to self: don't put so many coats of paint on the mating surfaces...save it for the top side. I also found out that when I send out more chrome to be picky about the studs. I run a tap or die over all painted threads. A die won't touch threads on fresh chromed studs. I've put the front sheet metal together many, many times but I just found out that the header panel between the hood and grille MUST go on before the hood or grille...one or the other but not after both are installed. Guess what I'm doing tomorrow. Oh, leave the headlights out until the last thing. Adjusting the front end, putting in grille bolts and getting the front header adjusted is so much easier by accessing bolts through the headlight openings.
:'(
Hate having to undo the done!
Gary, one thing I discovered putting the Ranchero together, the front sheet metal specifically, was save the splash pan for last. The hood, chin and fender alignment were all finished and tightened up for the final time. The grill assembly went in one part at a time. Pulled the halves together at the center first then tightened from the center out, put in the center piece. I'm lucky because all the tabs on the bottom lined up with splash pan. With the pan off all the bolts and nuts can be accessed from under the front and through the head light holes.
Pushed and pulled until my hands were cramping but finally beat it into submission.
Looks AWESOME!
running out of words, so I'll just use Lynn's.......looks awesome!!
finally...pick list is getting short
Outstanding! Very nice! They are a pain.....I know you can tell the tail of every nick and gouge endured along the way but looking at that gorgeous piece of art makes it all worth while!
Very nice!
Gary, perfection great job. John V
WOW! Just plain WOW!!!
Looks like nothing short of perfection to me!
Dusted off and lubed the old Singer. I also changed out the motor for a servo motor (RPMs are adjustable right down to 200 rpms). CARPET!! Ya' buddy...got carpet installed!
Still fitting the package tray and merging stainless into the quarter cards. So very slow.
Damn! You do excellent work! You missed your calling in life! :003:
Steering wheel...T-Bird?...what year?
Isn't that the way, you figure out what you're good at when it's too late to make a career out of it.
Steering wheel and column is '76 Lincoln.
Excellent craftsmanship, Gary. You should be proud. Way back when you talked about and showed pics of the T-bird dash, etc, I wasn't sure that I'd like it, but you sure made me do a 180 on that thought!!
Quote from: gasman826 on 2021-03-31 08:09
Isn't that the way, you figure out what you're good at when it's too late to make a career out of it.
Boy is that the truth! Have had the discussion a lot over the last couple of years with my apartment building re-hab.
I got to get busy and make some matching but disposable floor mats.
My parents brought home a new '57 Custom with dealer installed, clear seat covers. Being 6 years old and at a complete loss to explain 'what was I thinking!!' (Mom never did understand that little boys have NO thoughts going through their minds), I popped the cigarette lighter in, was impressed that it was red hot, was smart enough not to touch it, but had no problem touching the new clear seat covers. That perfectly round hole was in that seat cover when the car was traded. At least the covers did their job, the OEM seats were perfect for the next owners!
That's too funny Gary. Had nearly the same "lack of thought" going one day. Decided I needed to see what a board with nails in it would do to a tire, so I stuck one behind one of the rear tires......as you know the rest of the story is self evident.....
GEEZE! You two were living dangerously! I never even thought of doing those things...but then both my dad and grandfather were Marines...I was terrified of bringing that part of them to life! LOL!!! Granddad was WWII dad was Korea. Had I done that sort of stuff they would have hash out of me!!! :icon_salut:
BILL!!! What were you thinking?
I got the stick regularly...mostly because I couldn't answer THE question.
Yea...there were times I took the punishment because I KNEW the answer to the question of "what were you thinking"...would have gotten me a LOT more punishment if I told what I was thinking! LOL!!! :003:
Some of the old fellows here may remember the old fly swatters. They had a heavy wire handle that was pretty stiff. Well I'm here to tell you my brother and I kept that wire handle polished up real shiny! We also learned real fast having news paper stuffed down the back of your pants sounded completely different then the flesh when struck! The comment from mom was "You boys think you're so smart? I'll show you what smart is!"....and she did.
LOL!!! Ah yes...the "good 'ol days"...I do remember those! :005:
My dad had a real nice belt with silver metal studs in a circle with a rhinestone in the center of each circle, and when that hit my ass it hurt. I was in the 5th grade and he used that belt on me for something that I didn't do. I decided he would never use it on me again. I cut it into pieces and through it into the coal furnace we had in the basement. But being in the 5th grade I hadn't thought about the fact that the metal studs and the buckle wouldn't burn. When he cleaned the ashes out the evidence of what happened to his belt was there. Years later we laughed about it but at the time he was very pissed.
In Jr High the vice principal had a board made into a paddle with holes drilled in it.
It hung on the wall in his office for years.
I think a hanging paddle worked better than a sissy timeout.
Ron.
My 8th grade principal had a paddle about 2 ft long and 5 in. wide and 1 in. thick. He wielded it well. it felt like iron but I believe it was pine! :)
Mr. Bartella...7th grade...paddle...holes...discipline. Yea...I never got it...but rather learned from someone who did...a few times! LOL!!! Oh..and spelling books...sound different than the backside! :005:
Finally...finished the left door panel. Moving on the tuning a little bit of the carpet. Just another skill to relearn. Getting there.
:003: Looking sweet!
Looks great. Nice design.....something like that could get too busy real quick, but not yours. I like it.
You need a roadtrip to N. Texas when you're done so I can see it in person!
Good planning, btw, keeping the 1/2" or so next to the door edge flat so it doesn't distort the windlace.
PIC is the right door of a '64 Thunderbird. I used the door as inspiration and copied as close as I could. I used a Thunderbird panel and cut it up to get the shape of the arm rest. The Tbird hardware was modified and reused. The Bird's Nest supplied the courtesy lights and pull handles. The '57 door had to be modified for the speakers, recessed hand pull, and the latch mechanism had to be relocated and extended to accommodate the thicker door panel. A lot of work but I am very satisfied with the outcome.
I never could have accomplished without the sacrifice of the two '65 Thunderbirds that I parted out and the several that I picked for good condition parts.
Yes, we should always remember those that make sacrifices.....my 36 wouldn't be here without those that gave a little.......
Nice work Gary!
Beautiful Gary... love the elegant design!
Rear cushion done! Working on the back cushions.
Outstanding work Gary!!
Looks really comfy! Not to mention beautiful! :003:
Beautiful Gary.
LOL, isn't it funny, back when we were kids, no way we would put that hump (pun intended) in the back seat.
It is there for the very reason the front seats have wing nuts instead of bolts (ease of access for under dash work).......that flexibility that allowed "use" of the back seat has long been gone....:<)
The rear seat hump was standard to the Thunderbird and works in conjunction with the fold down arm rest. There will be NO activities in the back seat and likely no passengers.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2021-06-12 11:21
There will be NO activities in the back seat and likely no passengers.
LOL!!! Now THAT is funny...sensible...but funny the way you put it! :003:
Big milestone! The rear cushions and armrests are in. Adjustments, touch ups and cleaning are the order of the day. The odometer now reads 49.8 miles. It is back to the hoist to check torque, leaks, interference and top off everything. It still needs drivability tuning. I may have to make an appointment with tuner and wheel dyno. It is very challenging to drive, look at the laptop and remember the sensor readings so I can stop and make adjustments.
I really like it, Gary. Great job. Even through the long wait, it looks like you ended up with the right upholsterer. Nice job doing the final assembly also. Looks like it was made for it.
AND...I get to see it on Wednesday! :003: Oh YEA!
Just OUTSTANDING Gary!
More tweaking. Moving the O2 sensor further down the exhaust to a cooler location. Adjusting rear brake hoses due to 3" tailpipe interference. Replacing the 12 year old, 52 miles, leaking rear shocks with QA1s. Replumbing fuel system to add a check valve...EFI systems require pressurized system.
loving the period MI license plate ! The color couldn't be more spot on for your car ! VERY nice !
I had that plate restored about 10 years ago. The guy did a really nice job. The two letters signify the county of the plates origin. I looked at a lot of plates to find one from my county.
The QA1s are installed and initially dialed in. The fuel check valve is in and the engine seems to like it. The O2 sensor is moved and rewired. Could be the engine likes that too. Time for another test ride!
I just got home from trailering the Custom to a tuning/dyno shop two hours away in the Detroit/Metro area. Fingers are crossed that I get it back. I even left the trailer.
(http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/scared/scared0012.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net)
Good luck with that and I hope all goes well. I couldn't do that even if it was next door.
Will be interesting to see the Dyno results..
Thanks. Fingers crossed and insurance premiums paid.
Just brought the Custom home from six months at the tuner shop in Waterford (Detroit suburb). The dyno sheets are in!! 784 ft-lb torque from 3400-4600 RPMs and 677 HP at 5200 RPMs on pump gas.
781 FT-LB torque at 4400 RPMs and 692 HP at 5300 RPMs on E85!
Nice numbers, and on pump gas too boot! :thumbsup:
and purty too! let's see, 5 years in an upholstery shop, 6 months in a tuner shop, man you're a patient sob! lol. Very impressive Gary. Is it done?
Even if it's not done, it's REALLY nice looking! I've seen the work you put in to it and it's very impressive!
The wife and I were talking about how excited she is to see it back and so nearly finished. I'm struggling to find enthusiasm. I've had this car for more than 20 years. The frame-off is well over 12 years old. The stays at other shops has been almost 6 years. Patience...I just put it out of my mind like I didn't own it anymore so it wouldn't bother me. The project is done and I would rather move on to the next one. It is like a puzzle...it is addictive while putting it together but when it is completed, put it back in the box and pass it on to someone else. I would not be surprised that within the year the Custom will be sold.
Boy do I understand completely...my enjoyment has always been in the journey and not the destination. Your workmanship, depth of involvement in the technical details is inspiring. I doubt if I will ever sell my car because there is always a "problem" to be solved creating another project around the corner. I always seem to leave a small thing undone in ANY project almost as a signature??? BTW I notice in another post you went back to a mechanical fan on this car, did I make that up?
Thanks. This car has always had a mechanical fan. One of the major issues with the 460 swap is how little radiator and fan space. The last engine cooling was marginal with a fixed blade fan and a '75 Lincoln desert radiator. In traffic, I had to shut the AC down to keep the engine from over heating. For this engine, I again reworked the custom core support for the biggest, universal Griffin radiator. The new radiator was moved forward another 1-1/2" and made room for the Lincoln's 19-1/2" clutch fan. The 557CI idles for long periods at the thermostat temperature. Even on the hard dyno pulls, no heating concerns. This is the same fan setup I'm using for the 427 side oiler and cammer.
Thanks for the info! I ordered a Derale 19" 6 blade fan and a Hayden shallow clutch. I can finally drive my car even when it gets hot because of the recently installed EFI but at 85 ambient temp the car will run over 212 (as hot as I let it get) It seems to cool down when it is idling though. I have had nothing but issues no matter what I have tried as you probably know.
I have followed your heating issues. Very frustrating! I've put together far too many cars with marginal cooling systems. This time I went for broke. If the biggest and best won't do the job, well there is no plan 'B'. All my over heating issues have been at low speed, idling, in traffic, with AC on which means low air flow. So the solution is better flowing fans and more radiator surface (or more radiator technology)...which means more money! I haven't dealt with over heating under power...road heating. The books say overheating under power is too small (or inefficient) radiator...possible blockage. Did you ever run it down the road with no hood or hood opened to the safety catch?
As of now the car will hold a temp of about 185 at idle with no A/C at 85 ambient but as I drive around town the temp will start to creep up steadily. I don't think I have an issue at steady highway speeds. I think the electric fans may be restricting airflow at low speeds. I have a large vent flap under the fans but it not may function until speed is applied. I have considered a bigger radiator and a modified core support. I have even considered a different engine which is desperation defined! I have not tried opening the hood... I keep forgetting. The fan and clutch came yesterday, I am curios to see what they do to alter what I am seeing.
Dyno sheets!
1) 677 HP 784 ft/tq on 93 gas
2) 692 HP 781 ft/tq on E85
color change on the speedometer numbers...the chrome Sharpie worked really great
Going over the pick list and checking very nut and bolt, I found the upper control arm bushing completely wiped out! These were changed more than fifteen years ago but only 10k miles. I'll put new ones in...no big deal but goes along with the quality of replacement parts. Just saying, if your OEM bushing are still hanging in there...leave them. I'll continue to shop for tubular control arms just to get more options for the bushing material.
Fatman has upper and lower A-arms. BTW I installed my 20" Derale clutch fan on a Hayden low profile clutch and the fan MOVES some air! I have a shroud being made and I won't know for sure if it solves my problem but I have high hopes! Thanks to your comments and experience I made the change.
Testing 13
After installing upper control arm bushings again, I just finished full four-wheel and headlight alignments.
Nice seup.lol....I aligned my headlights a few weeks ago. Used the garage door as a reference.
4-wheel alignment?
The rear end is all custom and adjustable with a triangular 4-link. I needed to check the center line to assure the rear end was square to the frame and front wheels. Many newer vehicles have 4 wheel independent, adjustable suspensions. 4 wheel alignments are common. Newer alignment equipment have heads for all four wheels.
I have always had four wheel alignments done on the first alignment. I do this to make sure everybody is where they are supposed to be. Even parallel leaf springs can get tweaked and have things slightly out. I guess it is just a nervous nelly thing for me after having it tore down to the bare bones.
AC...checked off the pick list. Vacuum has held for more than five years. Fresh refrigerant charge, calibrate the stepper motors and dash controls, and system checks. 40 degrees at the registers. Getting closer to more driving tests.
5 years on a vacuum test!!! That has to be a world record! Your car is AWESOME! Did you get the Fatman control arms?
You have an awesome car, and an awesome garage. Not too many have their own A/C equipment, lol. This is the first time I've noticed you eliminated some seams........headlight surround, eyebrows, etc. I'd sure like to see pics of the car in full posing mode.
Fatman control arms...no, not at this time. I cut a wedge out of the upper control arms on the Raunch Wagon. This modification really helped with the alignment numbers especially positive caster. Since I had already done this modification, I installed new upper control arm bushings and modified the upper control arm on the Custom. Another benefit of the modification is the rear, upper control arm bushing is further from the header. If the upper control arm bushings fail again due to heat or the quality of the rubber, I'll change to tubular control arms with a better bushing material.
I really like the black color but have found it very illusive to get detailed photos. All welded seams were filled. The drip rails shaved. The front and rear window stainless was eliminated.
How about some big pix of the car for us to drool on !!!!!
Ron.
First cruise-in. Last one for the season for this little local cruise-in.
:thumbsup:
VERY NICE! More pics of the finished product please...
Looks awesome, Gary. Yeah, more pics. I'd like to see a side shot showing stance. It's still in the 90's here...lots more shows to come.
Fantastic :icon_super:
..
:smtree2: :roadrunner:
The car looks great!
WOW!
Oh Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Gary I love that bird dash in there. Always thought they were one of the better dashes around!
Thanks for all your thoughts.
The dash came out really nice but very hard to work on.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2022-08-05 08:47You have an awesome car, and an awesome garage. Not too many have their own A/C equipment, lol. This is the first time I've noticed you eliminated some seams........headlight surround, eyebrows, etc. I'd sure like to see pics of the car in full posing mode.
rich...I have seen the car...it is nothing short of a rolling work of art!
Is that "Custom" insignia on the dash a shortened "Customline"? I've been looking for what you have for my dash.
I think that was an eBay purchase. A NOS, in-the-box emblem for a '68 Custom (cheap Galaxie). It's all in the details! I'm so glad you picked up on one of the details. I spent some much time on some of those little details. Originally, a Thunderbird emblem would have been in that place,
Gary I don't remember any mods on your upper a-arms... is that on the forum somewhere? If you would please pm me I would appreciate it.
I searched and found upper control arm modification discussion. It starts at reply #4 in 'Door Locks Right and Left' discussion which quickly skated to control arm mods.
https://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=7579.msg64984#msg64984
This spring I modified the '57 Custom's upper control arms just like I did the Raunch Wagon. I was bolder and removed a little more material...1/8" in the front and 3/8" in the rear which worked out well.
I just checked and of course I found no pictures. I have attached a picture to show my cut line...the bottom edge of the date code.
The ole, annual first day of school picture.
Nice picture. I always hated the first day of school :005:
Which one is gasman826?
:laughing4:
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2023-06-13 11:13Nice picture. I always hated the first day of school :005:
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:icon_super:
The three of us took off on a week long cruise!
Cool! Where to?
Coldwater (southwest Michigan) to Cheboygan (northeast Michigan) via old US-27. It's kind of a mini Route 66. Lots of little towns bypassed by the interstate highway. Each of the little towns are making it a big event!
Ah...so this is an organized even then. Sounds fun! Send pics! :icon_super:
Old US27 Dewitt Michigan
gasman, know the route well, old us 27, how did you like the ride from Gaylord north, Vanderbuilt, Wolverine, Indian River etc, some nice scenery, we just spent 2 weeks in Gaylord on the lake, Otsego lake, missed some good car shows,
Clare tonight and Grayling tomorrow night. FIVE car cruise-ins today!
St Johns this morning.
Sweet! That is some serious gathering of cars! I be jealous! :006:
Nice turnout, makes me wish i was there. :002:
Leaving downtown Clare this morning to cruise-in/Street Fair in Harrison. On to another cruise-in and overnight in Grayling. More E85, food and ice cream...what's a person to do?
Awesome week....and you're not sweltering in 100* heat!
Made it to the end of old US27 in Cheboygan, Michigan. Broken but made it. Minor stuff. The locking steering column took a crap. Key turns only between ON and OFF. No ACC, no locking steering wheel, no START, no removing the key. Solution: push to start or jump the starter solenoid. Not convenient but doable to get home...291 miles. The '57 is hiding behind the '53 Ford pickup.
UGH! Gonna make for a miserable starting, and no air is no fun, but maybe not too bad.
Hugh, ACC..........accesories not A/C.
Gary, is your T-Bird column like my Mustang Column?....key switch is separate from readily accessible ignition switch? Maybe jump the wires at the ignition switch? or not, just thinking out loud. Maybe jump wires at the fuse box? What do the car thieves do?
HOME! Vacations are so tiring!
LOL!!! Yea...gotta come home and get some rest from the vacation in order to function the following week!
My son and I having fun with the '57.
awesome pic !!!
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2023-09-03 17:01awesome pic !!!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
YEP!!!
Time to pull some maintenance. After nearly 800 miles added on the Old US27 Cruise, the engine has about 1450 miles on it. So, the list:
- torque everything
- new spark plugs
- compression test...195# across the board
- run the valves...I didn't like one pushrod. At first, I thought I might have lost the cam but the pushrod had shortened. We'll see if the new $35 pushrod will hold up!
- new oil and filter. I split the filter and no shiny stuff inside.
- upgraded the valve cover with a screw on oil fill with an O-ring.
- new set of injectors
- new driveshaft safety loop
Ready to load up and go for another dyno tuning session. 835HP is a lot but there is more. It is running rich so maybe a little better mileage.
one more PIC
I have no idea what that last picture is.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2023-09-22 19:43I have no idea what that last picture is.
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x2
X3
Driveshaft safety loop. The left end sandwiches between the transmission tail housing and the transmission mount. The right end encloses the driveshaft. Some of the late model Mustangs had a similar design.
Thanks Gary.........I get it, now.
John
I knew that.
Amy and I cruising Michigan Old US27 Tour. Had a blast!
Upgrade/maintenance list completed and the car is loaded in the trailer. 10AM chassis dyno session in the morning.
The driveshaft loop was the last item on the pick list. The one I bought did not fit the TKO600 so it will be going behind the TKX. PICs of the one I made.
Your fabrications always look so much better than mine.😉
Fairlane62:
Your fabrications always look so much better than mine.😉
Thanks. It's one of the things I enjoy the most.
This whole thread is so good.!!!!!!!
If something did come undone I'd be concerned about breaking off the tail shaft housing.
I've seen them before on mostly gm products and have never been a big fan.
I wonder how you would test something like that.
PIC of another style. This one sandwiches between the tail housing and transmission mount.
Quote from: rmk57 on 2023-12-12 12:44If something did come undone I'd be concerned about breaking off the tail shaft housing.
Been there, done that. 50+ years ago at about 90 per in a 100% stock '57 Ford wagon with an auto trans & no driveshaft loop. There was a whole lotta shakin' goin' on! :005:
Quote from: rmk57 on 2023-12-12 12:44If something did come undone I'd be concerned about breaking off the tail shaft housing.
I've seen them before on mostly gm products and have never been a big fan.
I wonder how you would test something like that.
That would be my concern as well. In both my street/strip 59, as well as my Fairmont drag car, I have the Lakewood style driveshaft loops that are bolted thru the floor at the front. The Fairmont also has a rear driveshaft loop, welded thru the rear ladder bar crossmember. That said, the few times that I have broken a U joint, it was always the rear joint that broke. Back in the 70s, I had the driveshaft on my 66 Fairlane GTA break in the middle, going into 3rd gear, at the dragstrip. No loops back in those days, but a front loop wouldn`t have really done much, as the front section slid out, onto the track, while the rear section , still bolted to the pinion yoke, was merrily smashing and tearing holes in the floor boards. By the way, 66 Fairlanes had the brake lines running down the transmission tunnel, which the driveshaft ripped apart in short order.
After a discussion with the second dyno tuner, it dawned on me than many of my tune-up components really weren't new. Yes, the components were very good quality and had very few miles but time is the enemy. The engine has been together for more than ten years but never ran until a year ago. So, are the valve seals good? Plug wires? Cap? Rotor? Rockers? Going in deep!!! I replaced the valve seals with Manley Viton seals. New Manley locks. Tested the valve spring pressure. Replaced the pushrods. Replaced the Harland Sharp roller rockers. New NGK plugs. New MSD custom fit plug wires. New MSD distributor. Ready for the next diagnostic steps!!
Well, if nothing else, it sure looks purdy!!
Once again the big name racing parts companies come through. I have been surprised several times with companies like Hilborn, Power Master, Crane, Harland Sharp, Weldon, etc. that still have super customer service and lifetime support. I sent fuel pumps back to Weldon. Weldon rebuilt, certified and returned my pumps for free and a 'thanks for doing business with us'. Power Master rebuilt an alternator for the cost of the parts. Harland Sharp inspected my rockers. Although there was minimal wear, they replaced all the moving parts for a very reasonable fee. Very impressed. Such a relief from the sea of off-shore product complaints. Unfortunately, far too many of these old time companies have been swallowed up by huge investment companies that eliminate PR and customer support to profit from the brand recognition.
There very nice quality rockers. I see yours are the bbc version (SH 2001), the ratio and design is slightly different but lots of guys run them on their BBF's.
The 4005 is the dedicated bbf, 351 Cleveland version which I use. Look forward to seeing the Dyno results.
(https://i.imgur.com/dfMRKoA.jpg)
I've had several sets of Harland Sharp rockers. The only issue I have with them is that there is no ID numbers on them.
The comment on my earlier post, "going in deep", was somewhat of a joke. The maintenance stuff was easier than the next step in diagnosing the problem. Through all the shake-down, testing, and break-in, there has been a minor, random misfire. Never under WOT. A random RPM spike shows up on the computer screen. Since it is random and not showing up in any of the mechanical stuff, I going with 'stray voltage' on the CRANK signal. So all the EFI is being physically separated from all the other ECUs. All grounds are being confirmed. All shielding is being confirmed. All signal wires are being separated. All ground and voltage wires are being separated and rerouted. Since I thought be would be cool to bury the harness in the counsel, it was not serviceable. Now, it is all coming out of the car and spread out on the floor.
As I play with my new WIFI, I set here gazing up at the underside of the Custom as I search for inspiration. I have a few wiring tasks to complete as the pick list winds down for this winter's upgrades. The DE-TECH the CUSTOM Project has been ruthless. The 8-stack EFI injection, Weber intake, FAST EFI, Flex fuel, GPS, and FM traffic are all ripped out and listed on FaceBook MarketPlace. I've reinstalled the CJ Stealth intake, MSD distributor, Weldon low pressure fuel pump and regulator with a brand new custom build 950 cfm, double pumper, Quick Fuel carburetor. Let the testing begin.
Just curious, is the DE-TECH in response to the random misfire or other issues? I have mixed feelings about going the EFI route that I went, the car seems to run better but I lack confidence in the reliability of the car. Nothing specific but I haven't been driving it as much. If I went back to a carburetor I would start having heat related drive-ability issues again but the car seemed "more fun" with the regular stuff.
There are many reasons. I bought the 8-stack nearly 15 years ago. I wanted the 'WOW' factor now 8-stacks are somewhat common. I wanted the challenge of learning something new. Challenges are not so important anymore. I liked, and still do, E85 but the end of government support money, E85 is less popular and harder to find when traveling so I don't need the Flex Fuel capability of EFI. I buy new carburetors from vendors who custom tune the carb before delivery. The last four carburetors have been bolted on out of the box and gone to the dyno with the only change was to the idle speed screw. There is very, very little HP or mileage difference to a tuned carburetor and tuned EFI. Aftermarket EFI reliability is fair to good but nowhere near OEM EFI. The big difference between aftermarket and OEM is there is a factory dealership down the road. With EFI, you are committed to some kind of support. I did not have access to the source code to understand how the software worked. Training and/or experience are too expensive (time and/or money). There are thousands of books and videos how a carb works. I work on my cars and do everything to them. It hurts my ego to have to wait two months for a tuner appointment and it scares the hell out of me to drag an enclosed car trailer through two hours of Detroit rush hours traffic to get to the closest knowledgeable tuner. I do not want a carburetor on my Expedition! Carburetors have been around for well over 100 years in millions of applications. Show me an aftermarket EFI with that kind of track record and I will be all over it. Another thing that you might not think a deal breaker but there is no aftermarket air cleaner that would clear the hood for the 8-stacks. K&N makes a DIY kit but it is north of $800 and still won't clear the hood and firewall. Oh, no air cleaner...where do you mount the MAT sensor!
I'm pretty sure I can hear the buzzer going off to end my vent session. Thanks for listening/reading.
SO, I had some of the carburetor stuff so it wasn't a big deal to switch.
The car will hit the market whether next year or ten years so the less tech the easier the sale.
If I was twenty years younger, the EFI would have stayed. I still like cruising but it is getting harder to screw up the enthusiasm to work on them. I still have two more in the wings to get going!
Carburetor conversion complete under the hood and running. Putting the interior and trunk back together.
left side...
Dang Gary...that bad puppy looks almost too sweet to fire up! Clean buddy! I LIKE it! :003:
I am similar in my thoughts on EFI. As a retired auto mechanic, the last 35 years at 2 different new car dealerships, the factory EFI systems are great, pretty much "bullet proof" , which with the deep pockets and engineering teams that the OEs have, they should be. But between the number of near new aftermarket EFI kits that I see at swap meets on online , and several people that I know that have had many issues with the aftermarket EFI kits, (including a similar 8 stack, on a SB Ford), I will stick with carbs on my old stuff. We have 3 factory EFI vehicles in our "fleet" with a total of 786,000 km (close to 1/2 million miles), and none of them have had any issues or repairs make to the OE EFI systems. (the original fuel pump was replaced on my 99 F350, just as a preventative measure). And if a sensor, injector, pump, or other component bit the dust, replacements are readily available. The aftermarket stuff, seems to have little, if any parts support. Both my drag car, and my 59, have Holley carbs, both start up within a few revolutions of the crankshaft. Neither have a functional choke, so IF I drove them in cold weather, that could be a possible concern , but since both are fair weather toys, mot a issue at all.
Day five of six day Back to the Bricks Tour. Blue Water International Bridge...Port Huron, Michigan
Beautiful picture of a Beautiful car, I love the fact that you are willing to drive it on the street let alone take that 57 ford on a distance trip, True Classic Car Guy!!!
Nice pic! Glad you're having fun! :006:
Stunning! They always look better in the natural environment but your car would look great wherever you park it.
Looking great Gary. Thanks for sharing. Neat bridge also.
I had Miss Texas in my car today!
outstanding pic ! I know the bugs on the hood and windshield are annoying, but they confirm that your 57 is really getting driven. Beautiful !
Bugs on the windshield are a sign of happiness!
She looks phenomenal as always!
Since being home from the 'BACK TO THE BRICKS' tour, the Custom has been in the shop for 'nut & bolt' inspections. I fixed a little oil leak, changed the oil and filter, checked all fluid levels, cleaned the air filter and radiator screen, ran the valve lash, tweaked the tuning, and generally inspected for any rubbing, melting or worn paint...all good! I then moved on to the causalities of the 'nearly running over the kid' mishap. The morning after the mishap, I found the AC belts had twisted and were running upside down. In the hotel parking lot, three of us old guys managed to flip the belts (not a big deal but a major accomplishment with no tools). Hindsight: I knew the belts were junk with broken belts and should have just cut them. A 150 miles later, yep...the AC belts came off and popped the PS/water pump. With no power brakes, power steering, and no water pump, we coasted to a I94 exit. With a rock and stick, I got the PS/water pump belt back on (no AC belts this time) and made it home an hour later. I believe the AC belts failed due to the over revving during the mishap. Now, all new belts. Upon reflection, the over rev should have been limited by the rev limiter setting. There were three rev limiters on the car. Way back when doing the rewire, I zeroed out the rev limiter in the tach and in the MSD CD box to use the rev limiter feature in the EFI ECU (the easiest to adjust). When I removed the EFI and returned to carburetor, I also removed the rev limiting feature and completely forgot to set one of the two remaining rev limiters. The second causality was the hydraulic clutch pedal. After the mishap, there was too much free travel and the terrible grinding feel and noise. After removing the pedal support, I found the clutch pedal pivot shaft (through the pedal support) had bent and was cracked nearly halfway through the shaft. The autopsy disclosed that my do-it-yourself engineering was off just a tick. I had thought that the downward clutch pedal travel was limited by the floor. I was wrong! The pedal stopped when the master cylinder bottomed. Thus, during the panic stop mishap, I stomped on the brake and clutch pedals so hard that even though the clutch master cylinder had bottomed, the pedal still had downward movement to the floor. I am amazed that the little, aluminum clutch cylinder didn't shatter. But with 220 lbs. of panic driven old man, something had to give. Fifteen plus years ago when I upgraded to hydraulic clutch, the clutch master location was a huge frustration and I was never satisfied with the design but it worked and it never failed until now. During the hydraulic clutch conversion for the '65 Galaxie, I found a new company making hydraulic clutch pedal kits. Malwood USA builds complete hydraulic clutch pedal conversions. The '65 Galaxie kit bolted in with only two bolts that fasten into existing holes. No more searching for rare OE pedals! The kit includes a new clutch pedal and even a new and correct pedal pad. After taking most of the day to remove the pedal support, the support upgrade took 10 minutes. Now, reinstall the support and mount the brake fluid reservoir. Maybe tomorrow!
More PICs
I REALLY like that setup! What are you using for a throwout bearing? Any details would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for putting info up. Sticking with stock set up for now. I looked into hyd set up early on but after reading problem getting everything at correct angles I declined. I do like this setup noting hanging off firewall.
The hydraulic throw-out/release bearing is a McLeod as well as the twin disc clutch. I have three of these setups using Tremec TKO600, T56 Magnum, and TKX.
Getting the MC angles was a lot of trial and error. Another issue was the firewall mounting area was not braced and supported like the brake master mounting. Adding the turnbuckle brace finally brought stability (PIC).
I also use McLeod, its good stuff. As mentioned earlier, getting the master cylinders positioned was usually the time consuming part. Thanks for posting the information on that under dash setup its pretty slick. I'll look into that on the next project.
Finally finished up under the hood...old MC gone and shiny, billet reservoir filled and ready to bleed.
When I saw your Malwood Underdash clutch master cylinder I had to have one. That allowed me to put in a hydro-boost unit and I used a Wilwood compact dual master. My stuff is arranged almost like yours (although my car is a little rough and yours is perfect!!!). I haven't posted on this stuff yet, I am almost done and I wanted to be finished when I finally did. Got the new brake lines run today finally and now I can finish the hydraulics routing.
Yours looks great!