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scarebird adapters

Started by jseth83, 2014-12-26 09:46

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ROKuberski

#120
 I hit the wrong button, but can't delete this.

hiball3985

#121
Thanks Rich, that's all good information. I may go this way in the future, my brake light switch is set up on a T and I have never liked it. I'd like to know how to determine if a residual valve is in the master also..

The larger reservoir portion does go to the discs. They just require more volume. Wear has nothing to do with it, as far as I know.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

RICH MUISE

Rich..do some research before you hook up that front reservoir to the rear brakes. I believe the larger/rear one should go to the drums. If I remember correctly, the drum brakes use more volume than the disks, which is also the reason for the risidual valve.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

BWhitmore

I have been told by the owner of DropnStop that pushing a straightened wire paper clip through the outlet port and if you feel resistance there is a residual check valve in that port.  No resistance - no check valve. 

hiball3985

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-03-18 19:30
Rich..do some research before you hook up that front reservoir to the rear brakes. I believe the larger/rear one should go to the drums. If I remember correctly, the drum brakes use more volume than the disks, which is also the reason for the risidual valve.
I hope you speak with forked tongue or I have two cars backwards  :003:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

ROKuberski

Needless to say, I am not an expert on this subject.  I will challenge the guy that told me that and I will talk to a guy I know that teaches automotive technology at the local community college and another guy I know that has a Ford repair shop.

On the paper clip trick.  I first checked the old master cylinder, no check valve for sure on either chamber.  On the new master cylinder, no check valve on the rear (large) chamber, the front (small) chamber feels different, so "maybe" a check valve here.   I did feel resistance, kind of like I was hitting something like rubber.  Nothing like that in the large chamber port.

I am glad I brought this up.

Rich

lalessi1

Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-03-18 20:18
I hope you speak with forked tongue or I have two cars backwards  :003:

I have only one. Been reading stuff on line.... I am of the opinion the bigger reservoir (primary) goes to the disc brakes. The residual pressure valves may or may not be needed depending on drum brake design as I read the stuff. 57s have manually adjustable rear drums, 67s have self adjusting rear drums. This is a lot more complicated than I thought. :o
Lynn

ROKuberski

#127
I just did a little internet research and found this, see image below.

Here is a link to the thread I found.  http://www.flatheadv8.org/mustang-mc.htm
You can read through it and form your own conclusions.  But, it sounds like my friend was right.  Large chamber to the front brakes.

I don't think the size of the chamber has anything to do with the amount of fluid being delivered to the wheel cylinders/calipers.  That is determined by the piston in the master cylinder.

Rich


ROKuberski

I've heard back from all three of my "experts" and they confirm that the large (rear) chamber is for the front disk brakes.

Here is another link to a website that I found that also confirms that information.  Check the second paragraph.

http://www.auto-repair-help.com/automotive_maintenance/master_cylinder.php

I still plan to have the new master cylinder installed and have a test drive tomorrow. 

Rich

lalessi1

I, for one, am waiting for a detailed accurate report!  :003:
Lynn

canadian_ranchero

Quote from: ROKuberski on 2015-03-19 19:39
I've heard back from all three of my "experts" and they confirm that the large (rear) chamber is for the front disk brakes.

Here is another link to a website that I found that also confirms that information.  Check the second paragraph.

http://www.auto-repair-help.com/automotive_maintenance/master_cylinder.php

I still plan to have the new master cylinder installed and have a test drive tomorrow. 
i agree,large[rear]chamber for the front disc brakes
Rich

Ford Blue blood

The larger reservoir is for the disc in a disc/drum.  Does not matter if it is closes to the flange or the furthest from the flange.  The reason the disc reservoir is larger is the size of the puck in the caliper requires more fluid as the pads wear out and the pucks move closer to the disc.

The rear brakes require more fluid during the application stroke because the cylinders are retracted after the pedal is released.  The disc pucks have no return mechanism so they basically stay in place and require very little volume to be applied.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

BWhitmore

Pictures of Residual Check Valves

ROKuberski

I finished the project today.  The short version is that everything is working well and no complaints.

I got the new master cylinder installed and new lines run.  I still have the proportioning valve installed, but I have it adjusted to the point where it is doing nothing.  My current opinion is that it is not necessary with the system I installed.  I do not have a separate residual pressure valve installed.  The master cylinder is a perfect fit.  It is quite close with a small sheet metal ledge that runs above it, but it does not interfere.  I did strip out both of the sheet metal nuts where the master cylinder bolts on.  I just added a nut and lock washer on the inside.  I "might" have turned the bolt a little too hard, but I don't want the master cylinder falling off of the firewall.  I do have the large chamber connected to the front disks.  I was wrong about being able to connect the brake switch to the third port on the master cylinder.  That port has a bleed valve installed and the threads for that are not pipe threads, so I still have the tee installed for the brake light switch.  The stock push rod works perfect with the master cylinder.  Pedal height is just right and there is a lot of pedal left when you jam on the brakes.

The car has been tested quite a few times from about 40 to a hard stop and a couple of times from about 55 to a hard stop.  I can lock up the brakes, but it takes a deliberate effort to do so.  Pedal pressure is less than with the drum/drum brakes and the braking is superior.  There is no pull to either direction.  Come on over and I'll take you for a ride.

Rich



hiball3985

That is great news Rich. I don't have a proportioning valve either and it seems to work fine. Too bad the T for the brake light switch couldn't be eliminated but as long as it works and it stops good that is all that matters.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang