FMX question

[57 Ford Kustom]

Thanks FBb! I replaced the vacume modulator, and it shifts like a champ! The car runs a lot smoother also, it seems that the nipple that the vacume hose connects to was rotted right off. Talk about a vacume leak! Thanks agian, Tim

[Ford Blue blood]

Tim glad it is up and running now.

[sprink88]

Glad to hear your up and running Tim.  As I don't even classify myself as an amature when it comes to transmissions.  Good things there are a nice group of knowledge here.

[57 Ford Kustom]

Sprink you got that right. Since my Dad passed away, these guys have filled in a lot of grey areas, that he always did for me! Speaking of grey areas, the Napa vacume modulator is adjustable, right now the shift from low2 to drive is at 3500 rpm's. Seems high to me, what should it be on a FMX? Which way do I adjust it to lower it? Thanks, Tim

[Ford Blue blood]

Turn it out (CCW), try two full turns .  If you don't like that go back to the starting point and go in one turn (CW).  I'm not 100% sure CCW is to lower the shift, remember it that way, just not 100%.

[57 Ford Kustom]

Thanks FBb, what is the design shift point? Thanks, Tim

[Ford Blue blood]

That varied from vehicle to vehicle.  Trucks were at a higher RPM, lighter cars at a lower, HiPo cars higher....bottom line....what feels good to you.  Partial throttle on the street you should be hitting high gear in the 35 - 40 MPH range.  Full throttle is just a little different, a govrenor like device controls the shift point and that is all internal.

[57 Ford Kustom]

FBb, or anyone else that may know, while my engine is out I have to replace some gasket in my FMX. The kick down arm is leaking, and the tail shaft, where could I find these? Thanks, Tim

[sprink88]

tried RockAuto? Or I would give Dacco Transmissions a call. http://www.daccoinc.com/

[hiball3985]

The modulator is just a diaphragm operated by a vacuum signal. If you pull the vacuum line loose and it drips ATF that means the diaphragm is leaking. They are cheap, a few $$$. I forget if it takes a 9/16 or 5/8 wrench but remember I had to grind one down to fit between the trans case and the backside of the diaphragm.

[57 Ford Kustom]

Thanks, I'll give them a call. Tim

[57 Ford Kustom]

Guys, I finally pulled the engine and trans today! I was wondering about the torque converter. Should I replace it, or buy a new one. Another option is getting it rebuilt, if I replace it are there different types? It is a cruiser, not a racer. Thanks, Tim

[57 Ford Kustom]

Called the transmission shop today, they told me it would be $1,500 to rebuild my FMX! I told them it was fine, I just wanted the O rings changed, and the seals, he said that doing all that and not rebuilding would be foolish. I agree in part, but $1,500! I can buy a new c4 for $900 out of Jeggs! Tim

[Ford Blue blood]

No need for new anything....you can change the "O" ring and the front seal at home.  Put the tranny on an engine stand, remove the pan, unbolt the valve body, pull the "C" clip that holds the kick down in place, remove, replace the "O" ring, replace the clip, bolt down the valve body, new pan gasket, bolt it in place.  Remove the six bolts that hold the front seal plate (torque converter is out), replace the front seal and reassemble.

Unless it is running out the shaft I would not touch the kick down leak.  You can buy a butt load of tranny fluid for the cost of parts and they have a tendency to leak if you don't run them.  Front seal is just too easy if it is leaking especially with the unit out of the car.

JMHO

[57 Ford Kustom]

Thanks FBb, I think that that is the way I'm going. The trans is running flawlessly, I guess that my trans shop didn't need the work. I am facing a pretty steep bill on the engine, it needs to be bored .30 over, thanks agian, Tim