Ford Racing Boss 302
Fitech efi
T5 tranny/Cobra gear set
4-Bar rear suspension with coil-overs/narrowed 1.5" total/3.70 gears
Fat Man 2.5" drop spindles
Wilwood disc brakes front and rear
Borgenson power steering box
17" wheels and tires
Vintage Air Gen IV
More pics.
I like it............. a lot! Very nice.
Awesome Les. You've been busy! Makes me want to do mine over again, lol. Nice to see you posting. I love the frame mods.
Not sure about the tri-state swap meet coming up soon, are you planning on going?
Guys, as you can see in Les' avatar, he had a great looking 57 even before he started all this.
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2019-01-21 18:49
I like it............. a lot! Very nice.
Likewise!
Les, has your trans x-member been modified in any way to clear the exhaust? If so, do you have any pix of it?
Les, if I remember correctly, you had the new motor installed and driving before you decided to disassemble and rebuild the car, so I'm wondering about the FITech efi, and how you like it. Rich K from Denver is considering adding efi to his y-block, and I told him I had been reading good stuff about FIT.
Rich, my plan is go to swap meet. If you can make it let me know. Regarding the Fitech: I have a little more low end throttle response although fuel mileage hasn't improved...a little surprised. I have dual electric fans and it controls one fan running or both depending on engine temp. I installed new fuel tank with their in-tank fuel pump and return line. I no longer have to worry about gas boiling in float bowl. When I get my A/C hooked up it will step up idle when compressor kicks on. Once I get it on the road again I will take a closer look at fuel mileage and make sure my settings are correct. I basically ran it out of the box other than set temp settings and initial timing - I did lock out my MSD distributor's timing advance; this unit controls all ignition timing.
I made no modifications to tranny crossmember, it is just a shadow in picture. I did notch the 4-bar crossmember and the body behind rear seat area for exhaust clearance. Engine, tranny, narrowed rear end and exhaust where installed and car on the road before I blew it apart. 4-bar rear suspension is only thing added that hasn't been road tested. Tom, only mod to front crossmember was for the T-5 tranny.
Do you have your replacement body mount kit yet? Those can be a problem if the manufacturer (Dennis Carpenter) runs out.
I'll definetly give you a buzz if I go to the swap meet. If the weather permits, and I've got travelling $, I may take the '57 up, but really don't want to take it into that Denver/swap meet traffic, so maybe I could leave my '57 at your place and hitch a ride up there with you? I don't need anything, but it is the middle of winter and car stuff to do is so far and in between.
Got the kit some time ago, good heads up. Ya, we can ride up, keep me posted. Not ever needing anything has never prevented me from buying!! Plus, if you get it on sale it's like making money.
Interior- I added radio and clock as it came with delete plates.
Getting all new American Autowire harness and 22 circuit panel.
Quote from: fdlrc on 2019-01-22 10:35
I made no modifications to tranny crossmember ...
Thanks!
I think the notches the 4-bar x-member are what prompted me to ask. I was just curious to see what your mod may have looked like if it had been notched. Was sort of looking for different ways to notch mine in the future. I know you don't have an FE engine but the headers I'm considering for my FE need to have that x-member modified for exhaust pipe clearance. May just build a different trans x-member instead of cuttin' up the stocker.
Your car & those mods look great!
that is one beautiful car and stunning build !!! love how you left the body and interior all stock in appearance. this is seriously pretty ! congrats to fine taste and great car !
can't stop looking at the wonderfully interesting pics ! the purpose built wooden bench for the dash mockup/wiring is great !
Great job! Nice looking car with sensible parts and great planning. I'm interested in how the rear suspension rides after it's finished. Looks like you could have went with a bunch wider rear tire, which is what I'm interested in doing.
Thanks, I'll post review of rear suspension after I get some miles on it. Those tires and wheels were what fit at the time with the leaf springs. I will fit wider rear tires once the car is assembled, it certainly has crossed my mind.
By the way, I have relatives in Lubbock and get down there fairly often. With the list of cars you have, I think I know where to head for shake-down cruise! Of course by the way of Amarillo, huh Rich.
Good help is hard to find.
I like the idea of the 4 link rear but I wonder if you would get any binding when turning, like backing out of steeper driveway on to a flat road. I guess you could use rod end joints
in the front to give a little more movement if you need it. Boy, that sure opens it up for a larger rear tire.... I like it.
Binding, are you referring to the ability of the axle to have free movement up and down with no restriction? I know with the frame on stands, and the coil-overs removed, the axle has more travel than one would ever need. Unless your building a Baja racer. I did opt for longer 4-bars vs. the shorter ones used for drag racing.
Quote from: fdlrc on 2019-01-25 23:11
Binding, are you referring to the ability of the axle to have free movement up and down with no restriction?
I may be wrong but I thought he was asking about binding when one side of the axle is quite a bit higher or lower than the other.
I'd say that there is enough flex in the, I assume, polyurethane bushings, in your rod ends that that's not a problem since they aren't gonna twist but a very few degrees anyway. It's been workin' fine on these 4 bar setups for years.
Quote from: Tom S on 2019-01-26 01:24
I may be wrong but I thought he was asking about binding when one side of the axle is quite a bit higher or lower than the other.
I'd say that there is enough flex in the, I assume, polyurethane bushings, in your rod ends that that's not a problem since they aren't gonna twist but a very few degrees anyway. It's been workin' fine on these 4 bar setups for years.
Yes, that's what I meant.
Yea, they do have the poly bushings. I know this system has been around for a long time, in many different configurations, but this will be a first for me.
Regarding rear quarter sheet metal panels: I had a miscommunication with guy that's helping me with metal work. I needed to replace rear quarters on both sides. We talked about me getting them through EMS. Well he ordered them through Mac's. They were so bad, I can't even explain. He told me he even called UPS because he thought they were damaged in shipping, but the packaging wasn't damaged. I bought the ones from EMS and what a night and day difference! I need to post this review in the parts section.
I should have taken pictures of the two but I didn't think about it.
Just got these back from Quality Plating, Yuma Colorado. They fixed two minor dents, four cracks, added one mounting tab that was missing then triple plate re-chrome. They are as good in-person as the pictures show.
Only plating shop in Colorado that I know of.
And what's a good grille plating nowadays running? Yuma? I'll have to google that one.
Northeast Colorado on the plains. $530 for three grill pieces, $65-hood ornament base and $165 for the three dash pieces. I had quotes of up $2000. See post where I reviewed this shop.
reasonable prices, thanks for posting. I had never heard of them, so very good to have a plating source in this day and age. And, yes, I had googled Yuma. Not a place you're likely to find yourself passing thru unless you're headed for nowhere.
Lower dash extension. Gen IV hangs lower that old heater box so I figure I can add my vents and gauges plus it will help hide A/C box. It will be mounted slightly toward the firewall so attachment line won't be visible.
That's thinking outside the box! I'll be anxious to see how it looks all painted and assembled. You're kind of a tall dude, at least next to me, I assume you checked the drop to make sure you had room for a knee or two. I did a lower extension as well, but mine are more out than down.
I did check, no issues.
Very nice work! Getting back to the 4 link, most are triangulated, I couldn't see a panhard rod in your pics, for sideways location. Mark
Quote from: Frankenstein57 on 2019-01-31 22:20I couldn't see a panhard rod in your pics, for sideways location.
Ya made me look again. :001:
I see it coming off of the bracket on the center section. That's a nice chassis.
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7741.0;attach=24941;image
This is an Art Morrison universal 4-bar. The pan head comes off the center diff, goes to the frame bracket on driver's side.
I had an amazing amount of welding blow holes on frame. This was just one area. Frame must have been put together on a Friday, late afternoon.
That's coming along nicely. I've seen several post over the years with bad welding on the frames and it brings up a question of were the frames made at different assembly plants or were they all made at on plant and shipped to the assembly plants? I was lucky and all my welds were really nice.
drain holes for media and red clay
Mine has several blow-holes as well. I talked to the 84 year old welder who was doing my modifications, and he said that inn those days the welding was done with stick welders, and the line was moving, so they were quick and sometimes sloppy. Couple of my body mounts also had minimal amount of welding on them...makes you wonder how they has survived for 59 years.
Quote from: fdlrc on 2019-02-01 09:30
I had an amazing amount of welding blow holes on frame. This was just one area. Frame must have been put together on a Friday, late afternoon.
Pretty obvious it was stick welder. The bad welds were only on the top and to the rear. I only dressed one weld on the front, there were at least a dozen of these blow holes.
Quote from: fdlrc on 2019-02-01 09:30
The pan head comes off the center diff, goes to the frame bracket on driver's side.
Did you have to put longer studs in the axle housing in order to mount the bracket for the panhard rod onto the diff?
I'm guessing that you would have to in order to have enough threads left for the nuts. Hard to tell how thick that bracket is from the pic or how many studs it uses. Looks like it only uses two studs. ??
EDIT: Well, duh ... (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/hide.gif)
http://www.artmorrison.com/rearsusp-kits.php
I'm not with the car now, but I'd say 1/4" plate and it mounts to two longer studs.
I knew my car was a two-tone from the factory but I questioned that when we sanded car down where blue is visible under the white. I was schooled that the whole car was painted the base color before being brought back into the booth to paint the white. I heard that process continued as standard practice until 80s.
Still done that way in some shops where speed is of the essence. I had a 2-door sedan that was blue & white too. Same thing. Still miss that car...was stolen...never saw it again. >:(
Quote from: fdlrc on 2019-02-01 16:35
I knew my car was a two-tone from the factory but I questioned that when we sanded car down where blue is visible under the white. I was schooled that the whole car was painted the base color before being brought back into the booth to paint the white. I heard that process continued as standard practice until 80s.
Oh-oh, I'd better not post my VIN number!!
HHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmm...Where were you in fall of '77? :003:
Have a friend who is a cop in Phoenix, but before he was a cop he had an auto repair shop. Had a really nice mid-60's truck for a shop/personal use vehicle. Someone stole it. He has a superb memory...(he could look at your vin and 3 years later tell you what it is) and for 25+ years now...since he became a cop...every time he sees a truck of that year...he looks at the vin number. Car shows, parking lots pulled over for a violation, anything...the vin gets looked at.
I feel sorry for who ever has that truck if ever finds it. LOL!!!
Quote from: fdlrc on 2019-02-01 20:51
Oh-oh, I'd better not post my VIN number!!
It would be an interesting story if he found it after decades. I trust (pray) your memory isn't so good.
These markings are on passenger side A post. The CE matches the color code on VIN tag, curious what the other codes mean??
LOL!!! Mine doesn't even come close. However...I DO still have the title somewhere in my stuff...<thinking it might be time for a vin number reading road trip... :003: >
I do know mine (heavy emphasis on mine) was built in Dearborn. The guy I bought it from is in Michigan, but he bought it in Texas. It explains why this car is fairly rust free.
Amazing how much seam sealer they put on these cars, and something I've never seen duplicated to that extent on a rebuild. I think that's a good thing.
When we tore down my '69 Fastback Mustang we commented on that as well. I duplicated that effort when we put it back together...figured that was one of those cases where more was better. But I have seen a lot of Mustangs that when restored don't have much, and they seem to be noisier and one had a musty smell...which I can only guess meant the floor got wet now and then when driven on rainy days.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2019-02-02 11:22
Amazing how much seam sealer they put on these cars, and something I've never seen duplicated to that extent on a rebuild. I think that's a good thing.
Typical stuff.
Nice job on the replacing of the outer wheel well flange, and that trunk drop/inner rear quarter is in wonderful shape. On both sides, my inner wheel wells were eaten up about 2-3 inches back and my drops were almost nonexistent. Lots of hammer and dolly/anvil work to replace all the rotten metal. I started by rolling a bead the shape of the inner wheel well at the top of the verticle 1"(?) wide flange and then cut that up into 5" sections,
Rich, in the second photo did you notice how thick the filler is? It gets even thicker at the bottom.
I went back and looked. Typical "make it look good" quick fix, but I'm really surprised on your car.........it looked so good before. Good call on the full restoration, Les. Nice to see them done right. BTW, for the rusted out inner dogleg on mine, I carved out some oak 4x4's I had from an old pallet and made a buck to hammer form them. a bit of cutting and welding involved to get the complete shape, but it was a fun project.
Seen your car, you really did a good job. One never knows until you strip the car, but I had an idea there were bigger problems than just where paint was starting to lift; magnets never lie.
The butt weld on body panels seems to be the preferred method , does anyone use an overlap seam? To much potential for trapped rust? I'm doing floor replacement , then moving on to body panels. I appreciate any input. Mark
Quote from: Frankenstein57 on 2019-02-06 23:10
The butt weld on body panels seems to be the preferred method , does anyone use an overlap seam? To much potential for trapped rust? I'm doing floor replacement , then moving on to body panels. I appreciate any input. Mark
I have stopped welding my panels, except when absolutely necessary. I have been using a flange tool so I can overlap my panels and then glue and clamp in place. It stops a lot of the rusting behind the panels that you really can't treat afterwards and saves a lot of time doing bodywork by not welding.
Interesting view on making panel seams, I've not seen that done. I have some work to do on my 74 Bronco later this year so I'll have to take a look. A lot of different ways to skin that cat.
I did the flange seam overlap on the back half of the rear quarters, also floorpan footwells. IMHO, properly prepped and sealed there shouldn't be a rust issue. On the back quarters, having the double thickness adds a lot of strength, and particularly for a novice welder, it's much easier to get a good weld without blowing through. Just make sure your sheetmetal is pretty much where you want it to be after you put the flange in it, and before weld because the double thickness makes it a bit harder to Straighten. You should have less heat warpage though, which helps alot. Also makes positioning the panel easier because you can put temporary sheet metal screws in through the flange.
Panel bond if you can get sufficient flanging done so you have adequate bonding surfaces is the modern way to go.
I got my flanging tools from Eastwood.
Thanks for information. I will read up on it and maybe use it in the future. I'm pretty much done with the 57 as far as panel fix is concerned.
One thing I forgot to mention....when you stripped your car down, you may have noticed that MANY of the body panels on our cars are overlapped.
Good point, plenty of lap seams in the floors
Actually, thinking about it, what isn't a lap joint. headlight and inner tailight surrounds, doors, rear quarters, roof, pillars, trunk lid, hood, cowl, etc.
Still done that way today.
Les, any updates?
I've been out of town. I'm about ready for finish paint but delayed since my painter guy is getting into a
new building. So now I'm looking for April. I'm trying to catch up on readings posts, especially your continuing story - what a pickle. Thanks for checking in.
Making some progress after a delay.
2
Quote from: fdlrc on 2019-07-10 21:58
2
Lookin' good! Really good. I am a chunk away from paint...still have to finish frame stuff, then floors and rockers under the doors. But it is sure nice to see someone making progress...keeps others in the hunt! Congrats!
Looks like you had begun on the spaghetti too! (wiring) I bought a "wiring for dummies" set...with the location of each wire printed on them every 6 inches! LOL!!!
Thanks, my harness is from American Autowire. They make it as easy as they can. Hardest part was jumping in and not being intimidated. The proof of the pudding will be when I hook up the battery for the first time.
Rich, you mention in another post that with me getting my 57 together, well, what to do next? Just yesterday I was talking with my wife about working on my old Bronco next. I bought it new in 74, rebuilt it in 98 with my son. After giving it to my son in 03 , it's time to take body off again and redo it.
Since I'm starting to make progress again I'll take this opportunity to post a few pics. Other than attaching rear antenna, fuel tank, color sanding trunk deck and installing rear glass, the back is pretty much done. I'll get the front clip together after I complete the wiring.
2
Looking really nice! I am especially impressed with the fitment of your trunk and doors! Looks oh so sweet! Gonna be a heck of a head-turner on the streets! :003:
Thanks, the truck deck was a real pain; had to add metal here, take away there. It was obviously put together during a repaint many years ago without any attention to detail.
As Hugh mentioned, your seams a very impressive. Everything is. Good job Les!
I know that's not your home garage.......is that the paint shop?
Yep, days of painting large projects in my small shop are in the past. I couldn't of done this project in a timely fashion without hiring Tony at Back To New Restorations. He is a one man operation. He has had to move his shop so he is in a temporary location. Even in his temporary paint booth, which you can see, his work is very good. It's through his efforts that the project is coming along so nice.
It is in upholstery. Hope to get it on the road Novemberish.
Looking good, Les. You are probably getting anxious! Is the upholstery guy going to reinstall the windshield and back glass?
Oh so close! I bet you are chomping at the bit! Gonna be a LONG winter waiting until you can drive it when ever you feel the urge! Looks so sweet!
Headliner will be first thing installed, then I'll take it to get glass installed one day, then get it back.
We have many, many clear days here in Colorado in the winter, so it will get driven often.
Quote from: fdlrc on 2019-09-23 21:05
We have many, many clear days here in Colorado in the winter, so it will get driven often.
I will have to come and see it one day when I am over visiting Rich. I am re-locating to Missouri...and Rich is within my one day drive limitation. LOL!!!
I have always loved that blue and white combo on the '57...remember it fondly from when I was a kid in Texas. Yours...looks oh so fine!
Thanks, Id like to meet your acquaintance.
Re-chromed grill and hood ornament.
That's the grille you had redone right there in Colorado, right? Looks fantastic. Your seams are sooooo much better than mine.
It is. They did great work for the price.
Jeff. Your cars are looking beautiful. You are really dedicated to preserving 57 Fords. Jay
Seats are done, door panels are almost done.
They look really sweet! Great job. It that a cloth insert?
It is.
THAT is one classy lookin' ride! :icon_pray:
Headliner, front and rear glass installed.
Custom heat formed right kick panel with fuse box cutout.
New front and rear seat structures. I decided to omit the seat springs. The picture with cut-out is rear of front seat back, that will have a seat pocket.
Although the rear seat springs were fine, the fit was not very good; large and uneven gaps between seat cushion and door panel. Rear seat is constructed like the front seat.
Wow, Les! I really really like that. Nice clean look. You obviously picked a good upholsterer. Interesting idea on the seat structure and the formed kick panels. You guys have been doing a lot of top notch thinking out of the box. Gonna be a fantastic ride when you get it done. I see he got the headliner figured out....perfect!
Won't be long before you're cruising Academy (don't know where or if they cruise in CS, lol)
Looks so exceptionally grand! You have GOT to be itching for clean weather and an ignition key~!
wow ! stunning work all over. great headliner install !
that is a really unique but feasable approach to making custom seats. they look great! are these rubber or just cotton bands ?
The bands are a nylon and polyester mix to allow for limited give and seat suspension. This is the approach he uses on his personnel custom cars.
Believe me when I tell you, other than color, pattern choices and speaker location, if there was any thinking outside the box, it probably wasn't my idea. He gave me many options to chew over, then went from there. This guy cares about each project he does as if it was his car. He has been a joy to work with, what a pro.
Les..........got a pic of the painted/assembled lower dash panels you made for the A/c vents?
I am looking to replace the gold trim on the side of a 1957 Tudor custom 300. Do I have to take all the trim around it off? Or can I just remover the upper one? Is all the trim on the car bolted on?
Go to the tech info links section, then scroll down to moldings. There is a schematic of how their attached.
My thoughts.....you could probably get the old one out with just removing the top or bottom piece, but getting whatever you're replacing it with installed without damage is a whole different story. That stuff is going to wrinkle/bend trying to push it under the remaining piece of trim.
What are you replacing it with?
Your question should have been posted as a new topic in the tech section so we didn't hijack Les's build thread.
My trim was completely off, all around. The problem I see with not having it all off: if you want to use some adhesive to hold it in place so it doesn't shift, that would be a problem.
Interior pretty much done now. Some odds and ends to do.
Les.....Les.....Les......THERE'S DUST ON YOUR ROOF!!!!
That's just beautiful, great job. I think your under-dash panel is just a perfect solution for the A/C vents, and I see gauges as well.......I may steal that idea to replace my lower add-on vents that I hate.
All dressed up and nowhere to go?!
I'll get it on the road today and blow it off!
I love that lower dash add-on as well. Looks like it is stock! Excellent job. How did you make it? Or did you steal it from some other car?
Absolutely gorgeous. :hello2:
The flat portion of the face is angle iron. I sectioned the radius, curved lower portion, out of a 2 1/4" exhaust pipe. Sectioned portion of the pipe is about 1/3 of circumference. Welded the two together. Gauge tubes is also exhaust pipe, gauges just slide in firmly.
Absolutely beautiful work! I hope you look at that and smile a lot! Just looks so stock. :003:
Interior looks beautiful, good choice on pattern and color goes real nice with the exterior colors. Just for your information the front arm rests are on backwards you need to swap them door for door the tapered end goes toward the rear.
Will do, thanks.
New Pics:
More new pics:
Better than new!! perfect execution, Les. You should be proud!
Are folks gettin' out up your way?
You have got to be insanely thrilled with how that baby turned out!!! I like it a lot!
I am glad to see you kept the front bumper horns on there too1 I know a lot of people take them off for that more streamlined look...but I have always liked them and plan on keeping mine as well.
Ditto for the hood ornament! PERFECT!!!
Looks absolutely great all around! :icon_cheers:
Thanks, except for stance, wheels and painted apron, I did strive for stock look.
Rich, things are still pretty tight, I hope and pray it will loosen up towards the end of April.
Man your car is absolutely perfect. Great job!
Absolutely stunning work. Are you using LED bulbs for the dash lights?
I was wondering about the dash lights also, seem to be brighter than normal. How about some pictures out in the day light, looks beautiful I also like all the original trim left on the car and the lower stance.
The only LED bulbs are in the aftermarket radio. I painted those LEDs yellow to match the hue of stock bulbs. And thanks, I'll get some day shots soon.
Also, when I installed new American Auto Wire harness, I used their headlight switch that came with it. So it's new and modern; I just had to modify it to accept my stock light knob and bracket. Not sure if they are marginally brighter due to that. I think it's more due to my camera being really, really good in low light.
P.s. I don't know about lower 2" gauges, I'd bet they're LED.
Our minds are in the same channel. I like the stock look as well...and was where I was going to go with my Courier...other than the wheels and probably paint color. I am going to also go with the slightly lower look...other than that...will look like it came off the assembly line.
Absolutely gorgeous !
Beautiful !!! absolutely stunning car !
Garden of the Gods and Pikes Peak as backdrop.
SIGH...I am jealous! Looks really nice. Great color contrast on the pics too between the hills and the car. Makes the ol' gal really pop in those pics!
WOW ! Tremendous pics ! Real sweet !
Awesome pics! :023: :023: :023:
Beautiful car.
Outstanding, both the car and the pictures. I always dreamed of driving Pikes Peak but after they paved the best part I sort of lost interest..
Beautiful car and very nice photography.
Sure, Les, make me homesick!! Our old house was about 3 miles south of there in the foothills/upper Skyway. Those last two pics taken from the overlook on Mesa Drive just above 31st St.? That's gotta be one of the prettiest sceneries in all of the U.S.!!
The car looks absolutely outstanding, and I'll bet with that Ford Motorsports crate engine it's nothing like it was!
Now, go get me some pics from the Cripple Creek overlook with the Continental Divide in the background! Hurry, before the snow melts, and watch out for elk.
Rich, I knew you'd know where I took the pictures! Mesa overlook is exactly where. In fact all pictures were taken from the same place. The second one is taken facing N.W., towards where 31 St. goes by Glen Eyrie. Hmm, Cripple Creek.
Love the stance and the wheels, beautiful car.
Pikes Peak is tough to do even for people who breath normally. No more 14ers for me. For those that don't know, Cripple Creek is about 180* on the other side of Pikes Peak from where Les was taking pictures overlooking Garden of the Gods. About a 42 mile drive from there. Garden of the Gods is a don't miss for those passing thru Colorado Springs. Oddly enough, it's not a National Monument, not even a state park.......it's just a city park and they want to keep it that way!
Les, I thought maybe the first two pics were from a lower elevation..........just camera angle playing tricks.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2020-05-08 10:49
Outstanding, both the car and the pictures. I always dreamed of driving Pikes Peak but after they paved the best part I sort of lost interest..
You need to do it! The thrill of hitting the turns at speed and accelerating out of them is quite a rush! Did it in 2013 and would do it again in a minute. My oldest kid works in the Protocol Office at the Academy so during the next visit out there I will run it again. I do have to confess I did not follow the speed limit, hit it early in the morning during the week and there is no traffic going up to impede the fun!
My mom told me about running the Peak in an Austin Healy when she was in her early 20's...when it was a nasty road with few if any safety barriers and in some places no asphalt.
I would like to take my '88 Saleen on that run... :003:
Check out Ken Block's climbkhana video in his Mustang: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hg6L_7qLIEQ&t=78s
Quote from: fdlrc on 2020-05-09 12:10
Check out Ken Block's climbkhana video in his Mustang: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hg6L_7qLIEQ&t=78s
WOW!!!! Now thats my idea of fun. Now I'm thinking of how to put a handbrake set up in the 57 and wishing I was 40 years younger :003:
Quote from: fdlrc on 2020-05-09 12:10
Check out Ken Block's climbkhana video in his Mustang: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hg6L_7qLIEQ&t=78s
Ah...just a nice Sunday drive in the mountains on a sun drenched afternoon! :burnout:
A steering brake is SO MUCH FUN to drive. I had a VW off-road racing buggy (all tube frame) that I raced in the 70s; probably half of the steering was done with the steering (hand) brake. So fun to pitch it hard into a corner, lock up one of the rear wheels, and BAM, you're facing the other way without turning the steering wheel.
I finally got my Vintage Air Gen lV heat/AC system charged and up and running. It sure runs nice, at least one day in. For reference: I get 44 degrees out of center vent with outside temp of 83.
I had a couple issues (not Vintage Air's fault by the way) that their tech department was super helpful in getting me squared away!
Not for the faint hearted. I have an ex-uncle who delivered the monument at the top of pikes peak in a big rig!
I think I saw my old house way down below, lol.
Les.....we can compare notes whenever I finally get there to figure out why my VA doesn't get cold enough.
Vintage Air Gen lV
Rich,
134a refrigerant charge is 1.8 lbs or 28.8 oz
High-side psi: 160-270
Low-side psi: 10-20 in a steady state
Center duct temp w/blower on medium speed, engine 1500 RPM: 42-44 degrees with 80-85 outside temp
Calibration procedure:
How To Calibrate A Gen IV 3-Lever/Knob Control Panel
On Vintage Air Gen IV systems using factory controls, the control panel will need to be calibrated to ensure proper function. The following procedure will work when calibrating Gen IV control panels with 3 levers or knobs (Blower Speed, Mode, Temperature), and may be repeated as many times as necessary to get it right.
Before beginning, attach the white jumper supplied with your control panel kit to a suitable chassis ground within easy connection distance to the gray programming wire located in the main Gen IV wiring harness next to the compressor relay.
Calibration Procedure
1. Turn on the ignition switch (do not start the engine).
2. Move the (3) control panel levers or knobs to the following positions:
a. Blower Speed: HIGH
b. Mode: DEFROST
c. Temperature: HOT
3. Connect the white jumper wire to the gray program wire. Wait for the blower speed to momentarily change (approximately 5 seconds).
4. Move the (3) control panel levers or knobs to the following positions:
a. Blower Speed: LOW
b. Mode: DASH
c. Temperature: COLD
5. Disconnect the white jumper wire from the gray program wire. The blower speed will momentarily change again, indicating completion of the calibration procedure.
6. Confirm proper operation of the controls. Repeat the procedure if necessary. When finished, tape over the program wire connector with electrical tape to prevent accidental contact with chassis ground.
Well, not to hijack your thread Les, but I finally got to spend an hour on the A/C. First of all, after thinking about the build sequence/time line on mine, I'm 98% sure I never calibrated the control panel. Secondly, I went through my Vintage Air instructions, and never saw anything about calibrating. Only a note on the wiring schematic about "the gray wire is used for programming controls if applicable". The instructions you provided are in neither of the two copies of installation instructions I have.
It took a while but I think I found the wire. It was near the compressor relay, as stated by VA, and it was a very light gray (almost looks white with a light shining on it). It also had a pink female connector. Gary had said it was a gray wire with "a pink end", so I'm pretty sure I found it. I may have a stab at calibrating tonigh or tommorrow, or just let my A/C guy do it Tuesday.
I did pick up a thermometer like yours, btw, and got an identical 68* reading.
I think you are on the right track.
Those instructions didn't come with mine either, but after talking with VA tech, I was able to find them. As good as you are at sorting things out, you shouldn't have any issues doing this. I had to do a trial run, and I still did it wrong. No problem though, the ECU is forgiving, just have to start over. You cab re-run it as many times as it takes.
What issues were you having, and was it the reprogramming that solved it? I'm not sure what I'm looking for as far as changes, other than the obvious cold. Everything seems to be functioning correctly other than actual temperature.
No issue other than the ECU has to know the limits (high to low) of each switch. So maybe your ECU doesn't know the limits for your temperature, but it does for fan speed and the mode switches. If you don't know it is calibrated right, working on the rest of the system, well, you might be chasing rabbits.
gotsha....thanks
What is the story on your headlights and parking lights on at the same time? They have dual filament bulb/sockets in them so turn signals work same as the rear?
I have mine wired so they are on when the key is in the run position. To keep/help the ignition switch from failing due to an increase in load the ACC and Run terminals turn on relays. I just fed a fuse and wired the tail/license and park lights to that fuse. Turn signals are wired in as normal and work as normal.