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57 custom 300

Started by Geeksum, 2018-04-30 14:53

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Geeksum

#15
Did some more work today on the brake upgrade.  Eliminated the 3way T that the mc hooked into and extended the front and rear lines with unions.  Got my T with 1/8 npt for the brake light switch and put it in line with the rear brakes(Allstar Performance ALL50137 3/16" Inverted Flare Tee with 1/8" NPT).  Mc is bench bled and I'm just waiting for my 1/2 20 thread to 3/8 24 thread adapter(Edelmann 258350 Fitting) to come in for my rear brake connection to the MC that I didn't realize I needed until I had everything else.  Hopefully I can get the MC in /done tomorrow after work and start to bleed out the brakes!
1957 Ford Custom 300 tudor
-Jeff

Geeksum

Master Cylinder is installed, just need to get the brakes bled out and check for leaks at the connections!   What are you guys using for push rods?  The one on the car was/is too short as there was slop before the rod makes contact with the MC.
1957 Ford Custom 300 tudor
-Jeff

hiball3985

You didn't mention if you used the concentric bolt on the brake peddle arm to adjust the rod?
What is the master from?
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

Geeksum

I guess I didn't look to hard for an adjustment on the pedal, but I'm guessing it's not enough.  It's for a 67 Ford/lincon/Mercury.  Cardone 13-1394 .  The pushrod on the car has threads on the end but just slides into the mc, no threads to screw into on the original or new mc.  You can kind of see it stick out of the firewall on my previous post.
1957 Ford Custom 300 tudor
-Jeff

hiball3985

#19
Sorry can't be much help I'm not familiar with that master. Mine is from a Mustang and only has two outlet ports on the side and worked with the stock push rod and a slight adjustment of the eccentric bolt.

From what I can see that may be for a larger car with power brakes, check the bore diameter..
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

Geeksum

Quote from: 59meteor on 2018-05-05 17:14
Since you replaced the plug wires, first thing I would check would be that the firing order  is correct, that the wires are in the proper sequence. Also check that the cap & rotor look OK, and the dwell(point gap) is good. Look for signs of carbon tracking inside the distributor cap.

So I pulled all the spark plugs, rechecked gap, recheck wires, checked the dis cap...issue was still there.  I had forgotten that I replaced the air filter as well.  After I removed it the engine runs fine again :icon_cheers:, must have been restricting too much air flow. 
1957 Ford Custom 300 tudor
-Jeff

rovohn

Sweet!
Love the "Class of '57"
Cheers,John :canada:
'57 Custom 300,302/C4
'72 Rover P6
'57 Sedan Delivery

Geeksum

Got a new push rod (RSD-RC14) from summitracing.com.  Works great, had plenty of adjustment, stock hardware worked and the pedal feels way better now. :001:
1957 Ford Custom 300 tudor
-Jeff

Geeksum

Decided I was done messing with points... was still having issues after letting the car run for awhile then getting on the gas, PerTronix Ignitor II Solid-State Ignition Systems 91281 and PerTronix Flame-Thrower II Ignition Coils 45011 on the way from summit racing!
1957 Ford Custom 300 tudor
-Jeff

Geeksum

Found the last picture I had of my 1964 Ford Falcon Futura 2-door hardtop.  It was a project I started with my Dad that we never finished up, sold it to my Aunt and Uncle to make room for the 57. 
1957 Ford Custom 300 tudor
-Jeff

CobraJoe

Nice, that'd bring a few buck up here in my neck of the woods!
When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years!
'15 F150, '96 Bronco, '39 Ford Coupe, '17 Escape, '57 Fairlane

Geeksum

We pulled the straight 6 and put a 302 in it and disk brakes all around, 2001 ford explorer rear w/ 3.73 gears and posi.  needed wired, exhaust, and some metal work done still.  Hoping I'll get to see it again once my uncle gets done.  Last I heard was working on floor pans and putting in a mustang 2 rack and pinion
1957 Ford Custom 300 tudor
-Jeff

RICH MUISE

I love that Falcon. We had one of that vintage at our rt66 meet last saturday night. Bright yellow..........didn't like it.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Geeksum

Been awhile,  here is an update!

Disk brakes done, need to re-do the flare on the passenger side... isn't quite right and I get a little leak when I stand on the brake.  Over all its MUCH better than before.  Pertronix ignitor ii 91281 and PerTronix Flame-Thrower II Ignition Coil 45011 installed.  Reset the timing but I still feel like its a little off.  Cant see anything with the timing light except the main mark so struggling a bit to get it right.  I get it to where it sounds right but it bogs down and dies when you put it in drive once warmed up, but thats not really a new issue after the pertronix was put in but it does start easier.  Engine also struggles after getting on the gas a bit...but again not sure if its issue with my timing or if its a carburetor / vacuum issue.  If I get it tuned up then I think I will look into some exhaust next since there are pinholes in quite a few places, otherwise I'll be looking into a new 2bbl carb for it. 

Finally got around to checking my casting stamps:
Intake manifold:  ECG-9425-H
Heads: ECZ-G
Block:  EDB   (by distributor so a dearborn block)
1957 Ford Custom 300 tudor
-Jeff

fdlrc

One of the first things I check with old carbs is the throttle shaft, is there play which will allow a vacuum leak? You can tune, adjust and rebuild all day long until this issue is addressed. This is often overlooked.
Other- Original owner of 1974 Bronco