engine/transmission for my 57 Del Rio project? Y bock or 351, AOD or C4 ?

[Ecode70D]

Oh wow, that is nice additional info ! didn't think about that before. but those appear to be the typical early Ford/streed rod donut rubber mounts that are easily available. I even have them on my 34 that Jay built in the 1980s. they are similar type of thick flame cut upper plates and those early Ford donuts. those triangular bottom brackets could also be built from scratch.

Günter
      This may or may not help you with donut selections.  (Not the kind that you would get at Dunkin donuts).
      If you have or can find some early original Ford flathead donuts around 1934, they are encapsulated with real metal and they do not collapse like the mystery rubber chewing gum garbage that is sold today.   That's what I use whenever I can.  They also work well with other overhead Ford engines.   
      FWIW   Sorry....The nice early Ford donuts do not come with a cup of coffee. Jay
     

[suede57ford]

I've used Fox Body 5.0 Mustang mounts for mounting SBF..    I've flipped the mounts from side to side to side as that moves the engine back closer to the firewall and up higher than other mounts to enable the use of an early front sump oil pan with no clearance issues at all  Using the 5.0 mounts in the position where it moves the engine back and up gives you more radiator to fan room.  With the engine mounted higher it look better in the bay as a SBF is small looking compared to a Y-Block.  Ebay mustang 5.0 S.S Shorty Headers will work too.  You don't need to but, I made up small a jig using an old 302 head to that pulls the pipe closer to the head with a clamp bolted through the spark plug hole on old head to move the #2 pipe in just a little so I didn't need to trim the upper control arm shaft bolts for clearance much and it looks correct.

The trick to making the 5.0 mounts fit the original cross member is to slot out one of the original cross member engine mount bolt holes into into a large triangle just like a factory 5.0 mustang cross member.   This lets the 5.0 larger diameter engine mount stud drop right in a large triangulated opening when setting it in place.  I use factory 5.0 motor mount nuts as they have a nice large flange but you can use a flat washer.   I'm triangulating the mount holes on all '57's, even Y-Block cars, now as it lets you get close to the motor mount holes and the engine drops right in place more easily.

One other note with 5.0 mount is the stud sticking out of the mount is at a slightly different height between left and right mounts. You should level the motor in the mounting triangulated slots when the studs slide down in the now-triangulated cross member mount.  Only one side(drivers side if I remember correctly) will be up slightly in the triangulated hole.  Tighten the the mount stud nuts and it will set nice.

[djfordmanjack]

thanx for the additional info on motor mounts and/or oil pan clearance. those triangular holes sound easy enough to make with a power grinder. yes the canted motor mounts can be a pain when dropping an engine in with the mounts in place and the elongated/enlarged holes seem to cut that problem just fine.
Jay I know the dished metal washers and encapsuled donuts, that you are talking about. definitely better than just a cheap rubber gum.
Again, thanx for the wealth of information and ideas this thread has collected from everybody. much more than I had ever hoped for!

[SkylinerRon]

Don't forget to figure in the tire height when figuring rear gearing.

My 57 Skyliner has the stock 3.56 gears but, I went to H78x15's on 15" KH wires. It cruises at 70 all day long.

I figure the gearing is about equal to 3.10 with this combo.

Good luck,

Ron.