I purchased a 22 circuit "Wiring Kit" from Speedway Motors for my '57 Ranchero.The kit included a "GM Style" headlight switch, which was used on many,many years of GM cars.
The switch is like other headlight switches,as there is a button to push, to allow the knob shaft to lock into position.To remove the shaft, you press the button and pull it out.That is how it is supposed to work.
I "test drove"the shaft into the switch, several times and had a very DIFFICULT time getting it to release. Push,pull,wiggle.....I did it all, and all of a sudden it would release. This could take ten minutes or more.
I'm now doing the final assembly of the dash, and this headlight switch is giving me trouble again, but this time it's just the opposite of the previous problem.When I push the button, and insert the shaft, it does not lock in. There is nothing holding the shaft in the switch.
I purchased another switch from NAPA yesterday (identical) and it has the same issue, the shaft will not lock in.
What's going on........What am I doing wrong?
John
I don't think you are doing anything wrong. Every aftermarket headlight switch I've touched has been the same. My Ron Francis Ford replacement style harness had the universal GM style headlight switch. My Thunderbird dash required the OE Thunderbird headlight switch. No big deal, I would just unplug each wire and plug it back into the Thunderbird connector. NOT!! Even the wire terminals were specific to GM style and wouldn't lock into the Thunderbird connector. I had to clip off and replace each terminal with a FOMOCO style connector.
Hi John Have same problem with a DC repro. Have to mess with it to get it lock or unlock, hope someone knows. Probably all of them are made by same vendor.
If it wasn't for the dash light dimmer rheostat being burnt out, some of the 60 year old OE switches might be better. If using LED illumination bulbs, a burned-out rheostat doesn't matter.
I had the same problem with mine. It's been ten years since I rewired mine so I don't remember all the details. I believe the problem was the "nut" that holds the switch in place was to long for the GM style switch and would not allow the stem to go in far enough to lock. If I rember correctly I shortened the nut just a little and it would lock in place. I am not 100% sure it was the nut I shortened it may have been part of the switch. Now that I think about it more, I believe I may have also removed some of the black plastic from the back of the knob to allow the stem to go in far enough. Within a year that switch failed and would not turn on my dome light.