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I want to replace the 3 brake hoses and convert to a dual system.  Which master cylinder should i use?
I have a Town Coupe being shipped from Oregon that should be here in maybe 2 weeks.  It needs some mechanical work and I am sure I will be needing some things.

This style will bolt directly to your present spindles and keeps the OEM front end settings in spec as compared to a GRANADA SWAP.

Hopefully, you don't want to use a GM STYLE CONVERSION.

Do you want power assist?

Wait a minute ...  :-\

You want to retain four wheel drum?

Quote from: KULTULZ on 2026-07-24 14:18Wait a minute ...  :-\

You want to retain four wheel drum?

Hmmm, I might.  Got a link for that?

I assumed he was just asking about a dual reservoir master (and associated brake line changes) to replace the stock single reservoir

Need to know exact application (incl any previous modifications) and desired results to answer correctly.

Drum Ft  Drum Rr I added a booster and got the setup from here bolt on I bought premade lines at a local store to separate front from rear.
Brake Kit Drum Drum (https://www.ebay.com/itm/326470142481?itmprp=cksum%3A32647014248162b6479095c0475bb642cd11b3efef0c%7Cenc%3AAQALAAABUPc4YgTWUogX4l4Wo4r6rbj89PpwuaernzlZ%252BQ9Jflnere4td0FNO7ZUFpdCZ5W1PHVcKr90xHJ8HZYqTb2OAMqpJmPfQb42ATbkA3%252F%252B2uHBZ%252FYS0K3D8IU17hUyYNcxbIlqG%252FrH0utxChRg1mB7bHXDa7jR3fVJHNJKDfhnuc7MToh3LKrXCrHvasORW%252FcKipasqRrexmX5odkGnyjThlbEapMq2nBEF7lTtW5D6VTCaJngqVUKruH2ar%252FWHQVcvf9%252FP%252Bbv9gcv1rWMujtxWoQqJpinWdlb1F1hkVeWrKO8jxp6mba6vMUY%252Bwe2TC0vfBP%252F52A82LrcUxvouqoG48p2lQoWiWD5XI05EUuMxqXgRynrFaqz5q6%252FduOPP2g6398BG7Hb0ET9%252BOA5vyxrj60xfqqQYyRhvbpMiACUBgF5ydHHvOf7DVUZaiiOJvTiqQ%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KZW8VFX4H3X2S3QD2JGVNE0V)

Yes - " about a dual reservoir master (and associated brake line changes) to replace the stock single reservoir".   I might some day enjoy power brakes, and why not go to dual master at that time.  I don't mind bending some new brake lines, but I don't really want to go find small pieces to make it all fit, and work.

I have great brakes already, since my car, and the station wagons had the bigger brakes.

Quote from: Edd505 on 2026-07-27 15:35Drum Ft  Drum Rr I added a booster and got the setup from here bolt on I bought premde lines at a local store to separate front from rear.

Brake setup (https://www.ebay.com/itm/306564152472)

OK, I am cornfused (not that it takes a whole lot) -

You have a four wheel drum car and you want a booster and split circuits?

You bought the above Kit shown which included a GM CORVETTE style dual reservoir MC.

Why did you not plumb that MC into a dual system?

Quote1957-1959 Ford Mercury 8" Dual Power Brake Booster + Bail Top Master Cylinder Drum Drum Valve Kit]/b]


This is a 1957-1959 Ford Car Power booster kit. This unit is designed to bolt directly to your firewall and comes with the correct brackets to mount it, and it comes with a 1" bore Corvette style master cylinder and a 8" dual diaphragm booster. This set up will work for disc/disc, disc/drum or even drum/drum, you will just need to add a proportioning valve to suit your application. The mounting brackets tilt the booster and master slightly for better clearance. Be sure to check my eBay store for many great deals on any other accessories you need.

    Features:

    8" Dual Zinc brake booster with Bail Top Master Cylinder
    The booster mounts with a 4-bolt pattern.
    The 4 bolts are in a perfect square and are 3 3/8" apart (center to center).
    The master cylinder in this kit is the Bail Top style and features a  1-1/8" bore
    This master has ports on both sides (9/16" and 1/2") and includes plugs to block the unused ports (4 Ports Total).
    This master cylinder will work with your drum/drum setup.

Package Includes:

    8" Dual Zinc Booster Conversion Kit
    1-1/8" Bore Cast Iron Dual Bail Master Cylinder
    Mounting Bracket for 1959-1964 GM Full Size Car
    Brass Left Mount Drum/Drum Proportioning Valve Kit
    Regular Steel Line Kit
    Brake Light Warning Switch

Please Note: Professional Installation is Highly Recommended (No Instructions Included)

Are you wanting further help?

You bought that complete changeover kit and only used the booster?

No one bites here (that I know of).

There appears to be a contradiction in the description of this brake kit.
In the first paragraph, it describes the M/C as being a 1 inch bore.
Under the "Features", it say the M/C bore is 1 1/8 inch bore.
Caveat Emptor = Buyer Beware

Quote from: KULTULZ on 2026-07-30 07:13OK, I am cornfused (not that it takes a whole lot) -

You have a four wheel drum car and you want a booster and split circuits?

You bought the above Kit shown which included a GM CORVETTE style dual reservoir MC.

Why did you not plumb that MC into a dual system?

Try this one the guy made them thought it was the correct link here'Drum Drum (https://www.ebay.com/itm/326470142481?itmprp=cksum%3A326470142481e6ebf7416b134c5a8557ceacbf6a586d%7Cenc%3AAQALAAABUPc4YgTWUogX4l4Wo4r6rbj89PpwuaernzlZ%252BQ9Jflnere4td0FNO7ZUFpdCZ5W1PHVcKr90xHJ8HZYqTb2OAMqpJmPfQb42ATbkA3%252F%252B2uHBZ%252FYS0K3D8IU17hUyYNcxbIlqG%252FrH0utxChRg1mB7bHXDa7jR3fVJHNJKDfhnuc7MToh3LKrXCrHvasORW%252FcKipasqRrexmX5odkGnyjThlbEapMq2nBEF7lTtW5D6VTCaJngqVUKruH2ar%252FWHQVcvf9%252FP%252Bbv9gcv1rWMujtxWoS9Fe8WdvqM%252BRiECGtS8BBAJ%252FllkmpZZvn4HCkqlOtDY%252FnPfo8rRk91wLPc3aujRLTtapWPqyGfEiUW8A%252FDCHfsoUkCqjhbgufxtczjjiYF%252BQxSPkmkdQjDWmyZiNkicWzdRUdnw2DepiYk4dzxv8m%252B%252FtNBVGONkQbUcGvTokZnlA%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KZW99BTJPCXJJNWC92BV41YM)s the drum drum

Quote from: Edd505 on 2026-08-12 19:48Try this one the guy made them thought it was the correct link here -

Please understand. I am mot yelling or anything of that sort.

I only want to help you.

There are no 'ONE FITS ALL BRAKE CONVERSION KITS'

If you decide to use that MC (GM CORVETTE DUAL DISC) (true bore size undetermined) on a DRUM/DRUM INSTALL, both brake line outlets will need an in-line #10 RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVE. No other valving will be needed if an original OEM DRUM BRAKE SYSTEM (unless wheel end brake sizes have been altered).

VALVE EXAMPLE - https://mpbrakes.com/product/vl3710k-10-lb-residual-valve/

Any other questions please feel free to ask.

Chuck, why would he (or anyone) need 10 lbs residual valves if the mast is up on the firewall?

Their description is not entirely correct; While the valve will hold pressure on the piston cups, the actual purpose of the valve is to allow the brake cylinder piston cups not to flutter on return when pedal is released and while retracting allowing air into the system or fluid being expelled. With air in the system and/or leaking fluid, you will not have correct pedal action (soft/low).

These were used until the 1971-1972 model year and were replaced by wheel cylinder piston cup expanders. The system (drum) has to have one or the other.

  I went through the opposite issue when I replaced the master on my 1970 Mustang which has a disc / drum setup. The replacement master was from a 68-72 Ford F100 which is a direct replacement for mine. After it was installed and bled I took it out for a test drive. I didn't get 1/2 mile from home and the front brakes started locking up, barely made it back home. Turns out the master was for a drum / drum application and with the rubber check valves in the front it wouldn't release the calliper properly. Took it back off pulled out the brass seats, removed the duckbill check valves re-installed and all is well. Turns out Dorman uses the same basic master for both applications.

One has to be very careful where one sources parts nowadays as most is off-shore junk.

And don't trust kit makers either as most are either un-knowledgeable or uncaring.

  The only difference in the m/c between the two is whether they had the rubber check valve behind the seat. Used to be able to tell a drum / drum m/c just by the equal sized resivours, not anymore.