For those out there who have done the Drop'em Stop'em brake conversion with the lowered spindles did you have to heat up the new spindle arms to get the tie-rod end up in far enough for the castle nut to be below carter pin hole, or use a clamp to press them in? I can't seem to suck them up enough with just a wrench on the castle nut before the tie-rod starts turning and the slot isn't very deep in the top to try and hold with a screwdriver while turning on the nut?
Thanks
Sounds like the steering arm isn't reamed out to the rod end they are using. I've used a big channelocks to pull the taper up into the arm to keep it from turning. Does the end of the thread have a slot you can hold the stud from turning with a screwdriver? Mark
Yes it has a slot but it's not very deep and just slips off.
If you have some, try putting a little valve lapping compound (or similar) on the taper. The grit will usually stop it from turning.
As a side note, i have found that a little VLC on a Q-Tip in a low RPM drill also works really well on the female round automotive connectors that are usually a real pain to clean. :002:
Hope that helps. :003:
johns2000 Before you do anything, call Drop'emStop'em and ask about your tierod end/spindle problem as they have sold hundreds of these kits and will know the solution! I believe that the spindle needs to be reamed using a tierod tapered reamer which is a 7 degree x 1 1/2 " per foot opening up the bottem side of the hole to .875" diameter. The tool(think of the shape of a Christmas tree) has 5 cutting edges starting small at top and flaring out as it goes down and will fit in a 1/2" drill.Your closer to L.A. so you might be able to rent one at a tool supply or parts store,I had to order mine online and their about $80,ordered it from a company called "XKUT" part #5952-1 1/2"TPF or I'm on the other side of Riverside in Hemet(I think that's about 1 hr from you) I'd gladly loan it to you . KID
Thanks Kid, email sent.