I updated my 57 project log since the car came back from the painter. The dual master cylinder conversion came out nice. Used a SSBC combo distribution block mounted on the frame. Check everything out at http://www.lakefrontflorida.com/57ford/index.html
Ford Crazy.
That is soooooo coooool. Looking at the pics brings back memories when I did my 57, only my 57 was in the body shop for eleven months. Good Job, I love to see these cars come together to live a new life.
Rick
57 Tudor
Looking good,hope you can give us more pictures as you go.Im building a custom 300 and it is a slow go with limited time to work on it,but your doing a great job. :unitedstates:
Man, that makes me want to rethink my white with red interior color scheme....I do like that red paint! Should be runner with that CJ too...This is one that I check back on every week hoping to see more pics, simply awesome. Keep up the good work. :hurricane:
I'm hoping to have the car running by the November Turkey Rod Run in Daytona. The brakes are done and the fuel system is next. Randy Conner's working on getting me a set of custom offset AR Salt Flat Specials. After the fuel system, I'll drop the motor and tranny in. God willing, I should be adding to my log every couple of weeks. Thanks for the comments!
looks great. makes me want to get back to blocking. Mine's the same model, and I'm using a similar color (torch red).
could you possibly detail the install of the Mustang M/C portion of your build? I presently have the stock non-power M/C but understand that a double like yours is safer... and it does not appear to be as involved as other conversions I've seen. I probably will not go to disc/drum, but keep it drum front and rear, but the M/C update you have done looks like a great idea! Thanks in advance for any more details that you care to share.
Mark
The routing of the brake lines was the hardest part of the swap. The 1967 Mustang drum brake master cylinder bolts up and works perfectly with the 57 actuator rod. I originally mounted the SSBC combo distribution block/proportioning valve in the engine compartment on the driver's side inner fender well. It looked horrible with the lines running forward from the master cylinder then down to the brakes. Too much tubing... I finally mounted it on the outside of the frame rail under the master cylinder. Now, all you see from the engine compartment are two lines running straight down. I blocked the bottom front brake line hole in the combo valve and ran the ohter front brake line straight to the stock location. In my car the front brake lines junction at the bolt that holds the driver side front brake hose. I used the stock brake line that runs along the back of the cross member to connect the two sides. Looks very sanitary. The rear brake line comes out of the combo valve and runs along the frame to the rear brake hose. The lines split on top of the differential case just like stock. I bled the whole system and everything seems to work fine after I tighten all the lines and checked for leaks. The cool thing about this is that you can convert to front disks later by swapping out the 67 Mustang drum master cylinder to a disk brake unit and hanging the brakes on. There are pictures of this installation at http://www.lakefrontflorida.com/57ford/pvalve.html
Your car looks real good. Looks like you started out with a cherry. I mounted my pro valve down
where you did also. Ugly in the engine comp. or hanging on the m/c. Nice work.
Put some GOOD headers on it and it will run...
Ron
Shopping for headers now. So far, I have a choice of cast iron CJ exhaust manifolds, Crites and FPA shorties. Any other options I should consider?
Nice job, thanks for the photo spread. Love the red color, looks orange in the garage. Mark
Quote from: Ford_Crazy on 2010-03-27 07:51
Shopping for headers now. So far, I have a choice of cast iron CJ exhaust manifolds, Crites and FPA shorties. Any other options I should consider?
If it sits up good go with the long tube. I think Crites has them. Probably get custom built for what
they cost. Don't go too big. 1 7/8 pri works good about 36" long. 2" is ok but I liked the 17/8 on my
ol 390. The heads were about like yours.
Ron