I AM SEARCHING FOR NOS GOLD FOR A COUPLE OF PROJECTS I DO KNOW BURTON IS REPRODUCING THE GOLD I HAVE PURCHASED A SET AND MAY USE THEM IF I CAN'T FIND NOS I AM JUST FINISHING A RETRACTABLE AND IT IS A SHOW CAR I WILL BE BRINGING IT TO THE INTERNATIONAL RETRACTABLE CONVENTION IN JULY FOR JUDGING, I ALSO HAVE A 64B FAIRLANE 500 CLUB SEDAN THAT IS FINISHED BUT I AM NOT HAPPY WITH THE GOLD AND I AM ALSO FINISHING A 63A THAT I AM LOOKING FOR THE GOLD FOR, I REALLY NEED A SET FOR THE DOORS OF THE 51A THE 64B & 636A GOLD WILL WORK BUT IT HAS TO BE CUT DOWN I WILL BE HAVING THE GOLD RE-PLATED SO THE FINISH DOES NOT REALLY MATTER BUT THEY MUST BE BLEMISH FREE NO DENTS, BENDS OR SCRATCHES.
THANKS
So the Burton gold isn't an exact match?
THE BURTON GOLD IS 100% CORRECT IN EVERYWAY, IT IS PERFECT !!!!!!!!!! THERE ARE NO PROBLEMS AT ALL WITH THE BURTON ANTIQUE AUTO PARTS GOLD OR ANY OF THERE PRODUCTS. NO ONE SHOULD BAD MOUTH HIM ABOUT THIS PRODUCT.......... SIGNED JOHN E GAMBILL SR OWNER WWW.1957FORD.COM
John,I don't think Lars(karaokelars) was badmouthing Burton's parts at all. Wouldn't we all prefer nos stock made by Ford over reproductions..no mater how good they are? I think that was all he was saying. He said he was considering using the Burton parts he had purchased if he couldn't find the nos, and for the kind of cars he is putting together they would have to be perfect, i would think, for him to even consider using them, as he stated. Had he responded to cool57's question It may have clarified that.
One last note...and I'm trying not to get on a rant... but one of the really cool things about this website I appreciate is the fact that James won't accept ads from vendors and manufacturers so there won't be any feelings of responsibility to only give positive endorsements. Feedback from the members is solicited...good or bad...so if someone did in fact have a problem with Burton's parts they are open to post legitimate complaints.We have a new member product review section. By the way, your 70B conversion kit is great and has had a number of compiments here. Rich
I have a set of NOS gold fender trim that I will sell for $225.00 plus shipping. I would give them a 9 out of 10 . There is a mark on the back side at the top , it looks like there was something in the die when it was stamped . you can slightly see it on the front of the trim but the stainless trim will cover it up . The colour is very good and they are not bent or scratch just a little dusty. I have owned these for a long time . This is the first time they have seen the light in about 15 years. They have been stored in the Ford boxes and a PVC tube in my attic.
RICH, I WAS STATING A POINT AND DID NOT WANT COOL57 TO GET MISLEAD. TO SET THE RECORD STRAIGHT JAMES AND I ARE THE BEST OF FRIENDS. JAMES, MYSELF AND ANOTHER MAN FROM MICHGAN STARTED 57 FORDSINTERNATIONAL. AS YOU ARE AWARE OF THERE ARE NO BELLS AND WHISTELS ON MY SITE WWW.1957FORD.COM, ONLY TWO ADS ON MY FRONT PAGE. THEY ARE VERY GOOD FRIENDS OF MINE.
TO GET BACK TO THE MAIN TOPIC NOS GOLD PANELS VS BURTON ANTIQUE AUTO PARTS. THERE WERE THREE OR FOUR PLACES THAT PRODUCED THE GOLD FINISH PANELS FOR FOMOCO AND OTHER AUTO MAKERS. TO GET 4, 6, 8, PIECES OF NOS TO MATCH IN FINISH IS IMPOSSIBLE IN TODAYS REAL WORLD. HAVE THEM REFINISHED DOES NOT WORK, YOU LOOSE THE TEXURE. I LOVE NOS AS MUCH AS THE NEXT GUY. THE BURTON GOLD IS "CONCOURS CORRECT" YOU GET THE CONTINOUS COLOR, TEXURE THAT IS NEEDED ON A 100 POINT CAR.
DON'T MEAN TO CAUSE A PROBLEM ON THE FORUM. "MERRY CHRISTMAS" & "HAPPY HOLIDAYS" TO ALL.....
No problems here, John..Merry Christmas to you too..
Now, for the parts, I've seen the Burton pieces, and they look as correct as the OEMs, and the finish is second to none. If you are building a Thoroughbred Concours car, I can understand the desire for the NOS parts. Either way, you cant go wrong. Whichever you choose will be perfect.
John...ditto with the "no problem here"....I could just see where it was easy to misread what lars had said in the first post and wanted to call attention to what I thought he was saying.I don't have any gold trim on my 70a of course but I'm just tickled to death when anybody makes a new replacement part for our '57's Rich
I AGREE WITH JOHN GAMBILL THAT THE REPRODUCTION GOLD IS ABOUT AS CLOSE OF A MATCH AS YOU CAN GET, I WILL SHARE THE THOUGHTS OF THE INTERNATIONAL RETRACTABLE CLUB, THE GOLD HAS BEEN ACCEPTED AS A NO POINTS DEDUCT REPLACEMENT, THE FEELING WAS (AT THE CONVENTION) THAT THERE IS AN EVER SO SLIGHT DIFFERANCE, JOHN MAY BE CORRECT THAT THERE ARE THREE DIFFERENT PATTERNS THAT FORD USED AND THE ONE THE CLUB WAS COMPARING IT TO MAY BE ONE OF THE DIFFERENT PATTERNS BUT THE FEELING WAS THAT THERE WAS A SLIGHT DIFFERANCE, AS I SAID i WILL USE THE GOLD I PURCHASED FROM BURTON IF I CANNOT FIND A SET OF NOS DOOR GOLD, IT SEEMS THE FENDER GOLD IS MUCH EASIER TO FIND THAN THE DOOR GOLD PART OF MY PROBLEM MAY JUST BE MENTAL THINKING THAT EVERYTHING ON THE EXTERIOR OF THE CAR IS ORIGINAL FOMOCO AND I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE THE ORIGINAL GOLD MAYBE JUST FOR MY PIECE OF MIND, IF I DO PUT THE BURTON GOLD ON THE CAR I WILL POST A FOLLOW UP.
THANKS FOR ALL OF THE REPLYS AND INTEREST ON THIS SUBJECT.
I purchased the gold from burtons and put it on my ranchero, it looks beautiful and fits perfect, but there is a slight difference in the texture,the original has more of a raised defined diamond pattern the repo pieces are more of a flat imprinted diamond pattern.My car is far from concours correct and I searched for a set of nos with no luck also had two different sets reanodized didnt turn out very well sold them at a swap meet and recouped some of my money, so for me Im glad burtons finally started rolling the pieces through his press ,he spent a lot of time and money to get them has close to the original as he did, plus he super nice guy to deal with.
I seem to remember from my machine shop days that anodizing is different from most plating in that it actually penetrates the aluminum surface (1/2 way if I remember correctly, so a .ooo1 anodize thickness would actually build up .00005 (50 milionths) and penetrate .00005). We're not talking alot here, millionths of an inch in most cases. the buildup (and penetration) is controlled by time. "Hard anodize" is a result of longer tank time and is used on aluminum parts to increase wearablity. Knowing this about anodizing would make me think it would be difficult to strip the old anodize because of the penetration, nevermind the years of uneven oxidizing.I would guess that it would be an almost imposible task to replate used panels to show quality. Another factor that would render differences in finish would be the particular alloy the Manufacturer chose to use. Different alloys would render different results in anodizing ...color in particular I would guess, and also different embossing results.
One last note..anodizing is accomplished by an electrical current when in the anodizing tank, so where the part is racked there will be a noticible disruption in the anodizing caused by the current flow which probably explains the mark that dgasman was talking about which is under the stainless trim. All anodized parts will have this mark somewhere..a good plater will make it hard to find (easier to accomplish on a production run when you can make specialized racks.) just my 2 cents.