57fordsforever.com

where is the best place to buy.....

-leaf springs and shackles

-gas tank

-front spindles

-disc brakes and calipers

-complete seal kit for 4 speed standard transmission

-where to find body mounts





these are all for a 1957 ford Fairlane 500. :burnout:

Fordlover,
    The good place to buy springs and shackles would probably be Detroit Eaton. They don't have the best prices but it's american made and it's the best quality.
The good place for disc brakes and spindles is a place like Drop and Stop. A good place to buy a gas tank and body mounts is a place like Dennis Carpenter.
   Whatever you look for in parts for a 57 Ford is best served by people that adhere only to the make or model of your car. You can be fooled into believing that a parts a part. That isn't so. The parts manufactored by a company like Dennis Carpenter has taken upon themselves to cater to only a select group of customers. They have to get it right the first time. You may pay a little more but the product is worth it. Case in point, ball joints. I bought ball joints for my 63 Galaxie from a place that sold me the top and bottom joints for less than half of the cost from Greg Donahue. I talked to these people before I ordered them. Yes sir they said, same as originals. Neither the top or bottom fit. Ended up paying to ship them back and still haven't gotten my money back on the lower joints after sending them back. So, I ended up losing about $100 to that company as well as paying the premium price for ball joints from Greg Donahue. I'm sure you can ask anyone on this list and they'll tell you the same thing with few exceptions. But, we all still try to cheat the inevitable every now and then and get hung out to dry. Jim

Do you know where  to buy a complete transmission seal kit for a 4 speed automatic? And thanks for the places to get the other parts.

Thanks for the websites. But i seem to have a problem finding drop and stop. Could you explain to me how to find it.

Axles = Dropnstop.com
Transmission = Broaderperformance.com

Quote from: fordlover84 on 2010-12-30 16:27
Do you know where  to buy a complete transmission seal kit for a 4 speed automatic? And thanks for the places to get the other parts.

Thanks for the websites. But i seem to have a problem finding drop and stop. Could you explain to me how to find it.

fORDLOVER...right under general discussion, where this is posted, is a section for '57 parts and services links. click on it, then click on the "links" thread (right at the top). there you will find drop n stop and currently 25 other website links that all sell '57 parts. there is a ton of good websites there...spend some time just clicking on them to give you an idea of what's available. we have a lot of adding to do to the list but we've got a good start.

ok. thanks  :burnout:                 O0                :burnout:

I should add...or just ask ,as you did, but there's a lot of good website for vendors '57 owners should know about... particularly the newbies...
Have a great new year.  Rich

Thanks. I hopw you had a good new year too. I found almost all of the parts i need. :burnout:          O0               :burnout:

Has anyone dealt with wurth it designs lately? i was just wondering because i was looking for good places to buy rack and pinion steering. any suggestions? thanks.

Fordlover84,
   If you want the power steering option I've got a rack and pinion steering outfit that I'll sell you cheaper than anyone else. I bought it from Wildhog and his brother and I'm not going to use it. It's nice but I'll never use it. Jim

Fordlover....from everything that has been said the setup that Jim has is better made and a better price than Wurthit's. wilhogs brother-in-law (yellowagon) as Jim said is the one that makes it. The last I heard about wurthit he pretty much disappeared although his website is still active. The man had a lot of health problems with his wife because of an accident that unfortunatly affected his buisness and his abilities to follow thru on commitments in a timely manner.
Jim... if fordlover isn't interested, I am...let me know. send me a pm if you would. Rich

Fordlover84,
    I've got a couple guys that want the rack and pinion I have. Let me know by tomorrow evening if you want it. I won't hold it for anyone either. That's not fair. I lost a friend that way over a transmission once. I'm asking $750 plus shipping for it.
   
Cool57 and Rich,
     It's for sale and if Fordlover84 doesn't want it you're up next in that order. Jim

Everyone,
    Rack and Pinion is gone. Jim

I installed a 390 in a '57 Ford Fairlane 500 but exhaust manifold hits stock steering box. I tried to upgrade to a new power steering  box , but it hits exhaust manifold also. Is there a fix for this, or do I have to go to a rack and pinion?

fordlover..haven't done it myself, but they've been stuffing 390's into '57's alot longer than rack and pinions have been available. Sounds like an exaust manifold issue to me. Check out the engine swap section...about page 3 almost to the bottom, you will find several threads on which manifolds to use on the 390 to clear the steering box.   Rich

Fordlover,
    The stock log manifolds that fit any 352, 390 Galaxie from 62-65 will fit a 57 Ford with a stock power steering box. These are 8 bolt manifolds. Jim

Thanks Jim,
Do you know where i could get any?

Rock auto has manifolds for mid 70s FE truck engines that are rather inexpensive.  Lono installed a mid 70s FE from a truck and it fit with the stock manifolds.

I've tried '75 truck and '68 truck manifolds and neither one of them fit.  If you could get me information on Leno's car and how it worked, a picture or directions i would appreciate it. Thanks.

FORDLOVER84. YOU CAN RUN A 390 WITH THE STOCK LOG MANIFOILDS IN A 57 WITH THE STOCK STEERING BOX, ALSO THERE ARE A COUPLE OF SHORTY STYLE HEADERS MADE FOR THIS SWAP, BUT WE HAVE FOUND THE EASIEST WAY TO SOLVE CLEARANCE PROBLEMS IS BUY USING A RACK&PINON SET UP. TOM

Fordlover84,
   A Fairlane 500, that's great. Would you insert a picture of it next post. Jim

Jim,
I found a set of those manifolds, and they appear to clear. I will update you with pictures.

i tried to upload pictures. dont know if it worked.

pictures uploaded to my website...

57fairlane.webstarts.com

hope you like the pics. ill keep updating them as i make progress :003:

Fordlover,
    It looks like you've got a nice way to work on the body. How long have you been working on it. Also, you need to post those pictures in the under-construction gallery on this website. Jim

i tried to post them in the under construction but it says that my pictures are too large. Do you know how to make them smaller or post them? I've had it about 15 years but have only been working on it for about a month. I'm off work for surgery.

Fordlover,
   Here goes.
1. Make a new folder on your computer named " resized Pictures".
2. Copy any picture you want to post on the website into that folder.
3. Click on the picture in the new folder to open it.
4. Find a photo edit function and click on resize.
5. More than likely it'll show you the width and height of the photo in inches.
6. Click on the tab at that location to change it from an inches format to pixel format.
7. Now it will show you pixel width and height. Example (1600 pixels wide, 800 pixels height).
8. Now take the biggest pixel number (width) and devide that number into 800. Example ( 1600 pixels divided into 800 pixles = .5 )
9. Replace the original pixel width number with 800. Was 1600, now 800.
10. Now multiply the second number ( height ) by the .5. Example ( .5 X 800 pixels = 400 pixels )
11. Now replace the second number ( height ) with 400 pixels. Was 800, now 400.
12. Now click on save picture and you can use that picture to post on the website.
Jim

Thank you. i edited my pictures and now they are in the under construction section.

The bottom view of that car looks to be pretty solid, should be a good starting point.  Mark

thats where im starting

can someone tell me how to remove the upper control arm bushings from a 1957 fairlane.

Probably need a shop press, Mark

how do you remove lower A arm bushings

I had an inexpensive 3/4" socket set I had picked up at harbor freight for like 40.00 or so. I have actually only used the ratchet once but I have used the sockets for other things many times....pressing in and out the control arm bushings for one. The 3/4" size allows 1/2" all-thread to pass thru and with the appropriate size socket to either fit on the bushing or over the bushing, depending on which way you are going,and some washers and nuts, you can just push the bushings in or out no problem.
If I remember correctly, I had to drill out the rubber between the inner and outer sleeves so I could remove the shaft from the upper arm before pushing out the outer part of the bushing.
I have a pic somewhere of the process, I'll try to find it. One suggestion..use a piece of all thread long enough to go thru the opposite side when you are pressing in the new ones...that'll give you a visual on getting the bushing started straight.

thanks. If u have any more information please send it. Getting the lower a frame out of the car is my bigger problem. And pics would be great.

couldn't find the pics right now...I'll have to search my archives. I was replacing all of my shafts as well as my bushings.he lower shafts are a pain to get out..particularly the front ones. I had to really wail on the lower shafts with a sledge hammer to drive them out...soak them overnight with wd-40 or the like. As I said I wasn't concerned with damaging the shafts...if you are reusing the old shafts, take care not to damage them New lower shafts are around 80. for a complete set if I remember...upper shafts you really get "shafted" on..I paid around 135. each w/o the bushings.

also...there's 2 recent posts on this subject...page one of general tech discusions, and page one of steering and suspension.

thanks.  :003:

Just a side note on the upper shafts I paid 135. ea. for.....when I got them I checked them with a micrometer to compare against my old ones to see how much the old ones had worn after 50 years. The new ones were actually .001 smaller than the original "worn" ones! I guess the bushings did a good job of keeping the wear and tear confined to the bushings. The 2 bolts that hold the upper shaft on can be turned around on reassembly moving those long nuts to the outside(under the control arm), and giving more clearance for exhaust manifolds. the 4.6 dohc I am hoping to convert to requires this be done. Also, if you're making your suspension look pretty, those 2 long nuts are stainless. They can be sanded and polished.

When removing 50+ year old parts, you guys need to try PB blaster. Trust me on this one, you won't even consider wd-40.  Also, wd-40 evaporates rather quickly, if you need longevity you need a good penetrating type, or storage oil.  Mark

I'm looking for parts for my fairlane on a website called national parts depot. If i looked for parts under 1957 thunderbird will the parts be the same. Andi i am using pb blaster not wd-40.

I might be mistaken, but I believe almost nothing is the same on a t-bird beyond engine/tranny.

'55-'57 T Birds use '54-'56 passenger front suspension parts, so the Bird bushings won't fit a '57 passenger car.   John

ok thanks  :001:

the rear drum brakes on my car the bigger shoes are on the front not the back. Is that correct. I have a 1957 ford fairlane 500

Fordlover,
    I went out to the airport to look at my repair manual just to make sure I'm telling you right. The Primary brake shoe (small, less lining) goes in front. The secondary brake shoe (large, more lining) goes in back. Apparently the small shoe hits the drum first and if you push the brake pedal further the back shoe hits the drum also. I had my car pull to right one time and found I'd put the large shoe in front on that side. Makes a difference. Jim
   

How do you press lower a frame bushings in

fordlover..I used 1/2 threaded rod with some nuts and washers and 2 sockets from a cheap 3/4" socket set. One socket to hit the arm on the oposite surface from the bushing larger than the hole in the arm, and the other socket to fit the flange on the bushing. I used a threaded rod long enough to go thru the hole on the oposite side of the arm just to roughly eyeball that I was starting it straight. I thought about using a press...but with the threaded rod, you don't need any elaborate setups that would allow you to put enough force on the bushing to press in, without posibly distorting the control arm. worked great.
I've got a pic somewhere in my archives if I'm not explaining it well enough.
Don't forget, the bushing flanges are on the inside of the lower arms, and there are raised bosses on the bushing sleeve to control the proper depth.
Rich

How do you remove the steering column on a 1957 fairlane?

what it is you are trying to do exactly...leave the steering box in and just remove the column? It's been a while since I disassembled mine, but I do believe the column has to come out thru the interior. There's a very large sheetmetal cover around the column that covers a hole probably large enough to even bring the box thru if you want to get it out in one piece.

Yes the whole thing will come out thru the hole in the floor.  There are 10 - 12 screws that hold a large two piece cover that allows the steering box to come thru the floor.

does anyone know where i can find the rubber mounts for the core support and inner fenders for my 1957 fairlane 500

Dennis Carpenter, concourse,or classic auto should all have them..try I'd try Carpenter's first. websites are listed in our links section for all of them.   Rich

can someone also tell me where (or the best place) to buy aftermarket steering columns for my 57 fairlane 500

You may want to look backwards on this one. Flamming river and Ididit both have good products...but I'm assuming since you're looking for an aftermarket column..you're also going to be looking at steering wheels. Before I opted to fit a late model factory wheel/column  to my car, I had decided on Flamming River because they were the ones that had a wheel that I liked best. just mho   Rich