anyone know what the valve lash should be? Someone put a cam and solid lifters in it with the guide plates. So first I set them by the book thinking they were hyd. duh no compression. Now I hear it depends on the cam and haven't found any information anywhere. Ideas??
Correct me if I'm off base here, but if the piston was at TDC and you had 22 to 28 thousands lash , you should be able to start it. Mark
Yeah, got it running with int at 21 and exh at 24 but is real noisey
Try 429 SCJ lash .019 In. .019 Ex. Hope you didn't bend any pushrods or worse with the hyd. preload adjustment you first did.
You really need to find out what cam is in your engine. Different cams have different specs. Once you find out, you can check with the manufacturer. Other than that, you're just guessing. :book1:
My cleveland takes. 014 hot. Cleveland valvetrain is similar to 460.
Thanks guys,
The 0 lash plus 1/4 turn on the solid lifter didn't hurt anything. I figured it out while turning it over as it started getting too easy to turn. I don't know of any way other than tearing it down to find out what the cam is. The pushrod guide plates might provide a clue, they have a number on them. No guarantee that they used the same brand of parts tho. Crane cam info says you can adjust for best performance not exceding a minimum of .008. Sounds like your numbers of .016-.019 are a good place to start.
You really need the cam card. all the cams I have had in Fords
the in and ex were the same setting :002:
Wish I had the cam card. I sent a tech question to Summit the other day and they came back with a recommendation of .030 each. I think that would be too loose.
With a solid lifter cam, you can actually tune the engine slightly by adjusting the valve lash. We used to run a 406 Galaxie drag car back in the day and we would adjust the valves per track conditions. Looser gives more low end and tighter runs better on the top end. .30 lash sounds too loose to me. If it were me and I didn't have the cam specs, I would run about .22 on the street and adjust it from there. You can only do damage if the valves are so tight that the valves don't close or so loose that the rockers fall off or beat up the valve stems. Personallly, I wouldn't lose any sleep while running .20-.22 lash. More damage is done to solid lifter cams these days from modern oils than from valve lash adjustments. These cams need a zink additive or the lobes will ware down quickly.
I would go with the 14 recommendation as the valve train is the same for Boss 302, Boss 351, and the 429/460 series. As I recall my Boss 302 was 18 hot for both intake and exhaust.
Easyest way to set valves on any motor. When the exhaust valve starts to open, set the intake. When the intake starts to close, set the exhaust. Go right down the line. Been doing it for over 40 years. Rule of thumb is .025 cold for solids. If this don't work then you have other issues.