Hi Guys I found some old posts on the heater core subject etc but thought I would just start another as the old posts go back to 2007 did not quite help me slove my problem.
The issue is there is always heat want it or not, in my 57...I thought I had solved my problem a month ago when I discovered (after a friend pointed out "is the vacuum line connected:???) well I had never looked or even knew about needing vacuum...and lone behold the vacuum line on engine side of firewall was not connected.. I was excited problem solved... NOT...we took car for a long drive yesterday and when my wife took to driving and I was in pass. seat I noticed the heater baffle was very warm to the touch.. I did not have fan on and the 2 heater switch levers were "off" all the way to the left but when I opened the small front door on the baffle, plenty of heat just pours out.. it was cool out yesterday so not a big deal having some heat in the car but with hot weather coming - having unwanted heat is not going to be fun in the summer.. anyhelp on things I need to look for will help, the lever/switches appear to work when I move levers when I check at the core.. like I said I thought I had my problem licked when I hooked up vacuum line... I have to remove the line from the vacuum with car running like someone previously suggested.. but any more thoughts will be helpful in me trying to figure how to prevent the heat coming into the car..
Thanks in advance
Peter
Not totally sure on 57's as we are a far way from this on our project but I have installed a mechanical shutoff valve in a heater core line on other vehicles that doesn't allow coolant to flow thru the core. You would have to physically turn it off or on under the hood but it will stop the flow. I use ball valves in the house for everything now as they seem to not corode and stick. Home Depot is your friend.
What Tom said :003:
I use a ball valve that uses a cable.
I put the valve in the engine compartment before the heater core and hook the cable up to the temperature slider on the dash.
This makes it work just like original without the vacuum hassle.
I do not remember the part number but I get them from napa.
I like that - it will appear more original yet is better than vacuum, In your opinion is the vacuum the likely culprit for my problem?
does the NAPA ball valve come with the cable?
do you have a picture of how you connected it..
If I can't solve my problem, I may just do this.
Valve goes in line on which heater hose? and can you be more specific on where..
any added details will help.
Thanks again for your reply
Peter
Is there vacuum? I just remember a cable.
There is...my Ranchero still has the remains of the vacuum line on it.
I love my heat/radio/clock delete Custom....
Peter:
I got around that problem on my Custom 300 by putting a shutoff valve in the heater inlet hose. Never had a problem. Warm water able to circulate in the Winter, no water circulates into the heater during the Summer. Besides the one I used looks great and is a good conversation piece. I located it on the fenderwell next to my coil (took the coil off the engine to reduce vibration which destroyed my previous coil)
Bob
57 AGIN
Thanks Bob,
looks VERY nice, but I just have the rubber hose, I am leaning toward this type arrangement since the vacuum appears to be a known issue, but I will have to find a suitable valve..
any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.. maybe NAPA can recommend something too.
Still need to look at my vacuum line to see that it is sealed, like I said I thought a few months back when I reconnected the line (never was connected) the baffle box seemed to remain cool, but it was also cooler out.. but I can't imagine the outside temp had that great an effect. So I am still hopeful the vacuum tube/connection is compromised somehow..
stay tuned.
Peter