Desperate for help. Had posted under brakes but need to revisit. Car is ut 312 with powrer brakes, kelsey-hayes power assist. Ordered a disc brake kit. Put everything on , new m/c, proportion valve and new brake lines. No brakes, pedal all the way to the floor. M/c faulty, got anew one and installed, still no brakes. Was advised to put on a 10lb. residual valve for rear drum brakes, still no brakes. Checked m/c and found it was faulty. Installed new m/c, rebled brakes. peadal all way to floor and no brakes. we are stumped with no solution. What was supposed to take 4 hours has turned into 2 weeks. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. :canada:
did you bench bleed the master cylinder?
yes.
I'm looking for a Master Cylinder. Where did you get yours and how much did you pay?
Thanks
Have you tried bleeding the brakes with the engine running, booster boosting? Mark
I purchased my dual pot m/c from piston ring for $60.00. Yes we have bled the brakes with car running. I have now been told to disconnect the power assist and go to a std pedal with a longer travel. Will try this tomorrow and let you know what happens. :canada:
When you get right down to it, brake systems are pretty simple. Basic hydraulics, but one or two leaky fittings and you'll suck as much air in as you are bleeding out. Check the basic stuff, peel back the boot and see if the rod is pushing the plunger in properly. Got to be something odd going on here. Mark
I may be wrong but I believe most if not all after market power brake kits are designed for a manual pedal. I do think you are on the right track with changing pedals.
The bore size on the master is to small, its probably is 7/8 or 15/16 .You need a bore size of 1 1/8 for proper pedal feel. The masters that I have used for this setup are from a 85 ford svo Mustang., it bolts right on and works perfectly
Yeah but he says zero pedal, Are all the bleeders at 12:00? Check and see if the calipers are on the wrong side. Mark
The geometry of the old sure swift power brake is very unusual . It requires the 1 1/8 inch bore to work . In its day this was the lowest pedal to floor clearance system on the market , just having the brakes out of adjustment made the pedal hit the floor . To use a smaller bore will give you so much pedal travel it will hit the floor. This is why Ford used two master cylinders for the 57s 58s & 59s ,a 1 inch for Manuel brakes and a 1 1/8 inch bore for power brakes.
I have brakes. We tested the power assist and it was not working, removed it from the car along with the brake pedal..We then installed a std brake pedal and I now have brakes. My problem now is that I have no brake lights. When we installed the proportion valve there was no room to connect the brake light hookup from the original m/c. The proportion valve has a connection for the brake hookup bgut when I connected I still have no brake lights. :canada:
I adapted the pressure sw to the pro valve. but it's ugly. Welded a bracked on the brace
under the dash and used a tri 5 electric sw. I like the way it works better and should
last longer that these cheap ass new pressure ones.
We also installed a bracket with switch under the dash and everything working fine. Again, thanks for all the input. I received quite an education during this process. :canada: