It runs car has 90k who knows if the odometer has rolled, because my dad doesn't remember. 312 runs looks like some seepage dorm a freeze plug. The oil was caked so hard and layered so thick I had to chisel it off.
Question since it runs can I just put a newmgasket kit on it and drive it for a year or two until I can afford to do it right?
Q-2 if the gasket kit won't simply work what's the lower budget freshen up kit consist of.
-Keith
Sorry for the typos the iPad isn't the best to type on.
Where was the oil caked on like that? pan, lifter valley or valve covers?
i guess you could try cleaning it right out and getting all of the old oil crap out and then trying to run it. The engine itself will tell you better if it will run than anyone on a website.
Your call, but I would start buying parts. A new main bearing set now costs about $250, Clevite has discontinued them. If you find some, you'd better grab them.
I may use a 292 block and go from there, as mains are still reasonable, just have my crang turned down to fit the 292 mains. I have 2 3122s to build, didnt realize they'd gotten so expensive to build.
@Alex on the sides of the block by the starter and generator. As well as the engine crossmember and a arms.
The engine runs well, just the thought of a 55 year old engine screams rebuild!
I've done many poor mans rebuild ( rings, bearings and a valve job that have ran good for many years. If
it runs good take a look when u tear it down.
@Woody cool man, I want to go with the cheap man rebuild then. Just for a couple summers. I noticed some times when I had the engine in the car I would crank it and before she fired up the start would spool loudly like rawwwwwnnnnnnnn then I'd wait and it would engage again but after thre or four seconds of cranking rawwwwnnnn again. They all sound that way or is this one old as well.
If I do decide to tear it apart, do the head bolts need replaced if I take them out? I know they need torques back in sequence and to spec. I just don't think I'm ready for a tear down as I know my wallet is not.
Clean them up with a wire wheel. Run a tap down the threads of block. Lightly lube and
re torque.
Those are not "torque to yeild" head bolts like the new engines use. As shopratwoody says clean it all up and go for it. As long as there are no galls they can be reused forever.
Would I replace the starter due to the rawwww spooking sound or do they all sound like that? Are the water pump and oil pump replaced inna standard low. Budget freshen up procedure?
Also of it turns out that the cars engine has 190xxx rather than 90k am I risking an engine failure without doing a clean high dollar rebuild?
That milage is a little high for what I suggested.
Well I pulled the carb intake fuel pump and the cover plate that's under neath the intake. There's sludge where the fpump arm goes in and sludge where the push rods go down. I'll try and minimize the pictures so I can upload them on here. It looks like there was a aftermarket kit put on for the oil valve lubricant issue at rocker arm.
The oiler is a bandaid. If it was clean it wouldn't need it. Might as well do it right. Check
the rockers and shafts for wear also. Have fun
Keith, Another idea, you said it was running.Does it run well enough for basic transportation? If so,you might want to go ahead and drive it while you rebuild another motor as you can afford parts.Find another 292/312 motor and do the machine work/rebuild as money becomes available and when completed do and engine swap.If numbers correct is important than keep original motor and rebuild/reswap when time/money allows.If not,disassemble and sell block,heads,rods/pistons,crank,etc. on ebay or craigslist,or here or complete long block!That way you can recoup some of your expenses. KID
Do you have an oil pressure gauge on this engine? Is it holding decent pressure? My experience with a 272 years ago, I nursed it along for quite a while by installing a new oil pump and timing chain. The old chain got so worn that it finally skipped teeth on the timing gears. Put a new timing set and oil pump on and drove it another six months till the rear seal was leaking a quart every 20 miles!
Quote from: KidKourier on 2012-01-29 20:09
Keith, Another idea, you said it was running.Does it run well enough for basic transportation? If so,you might want to go ahead and drive it while you rebuild another motor as you can afford parts.Find another 292/312 motor and do the machine work/rebuild as money becomes available and when completed do and engine swap.If numbers correct is important than keep original motor and rebuild/reswap when time/money allows.If not,disassemble and sell block,heads,rods/pistons,crank,etc. on ebay or craigslist,or here or complete long block!That way you can recoup some of your expenses. KID
I definitely need the extra loot for the 460, I just don't want to regret selling the engine, because I know I'll never be able to find another one. It runs I did a tune up and new ignition components, the carb is original and idles high. (first carb rebuild was this 4bbl holly)
Quote from: Lgcustom on 2012-01-30 10:18
Do you have an oil pressure gauge on this engine? Is it holding decent pressure? My experience with a 272 years ago, I nursed it along for quite a while by installing a new oil pump and timing chain. The old chain got so worn that it finally skipped teeth on the timing gears. Put a new timing set and oil pump on and drove it another six months till the rear seal was leaking a quart every 20 miles!
I don't have an oil pump, and have pulled the intake and valley cover as well as fpump only to find gobs of sludge. The thermostat housing looks like the titantic where it mounts to the intake is the same. I think the engine has 200k
sludge in the engine
Titanic like rust
The sludge doesn't look too bad. No big clumps! The reason for the rocker oiling system add-on is because the internal oil passages in the block are plugged. The only way to fix that is a complete teardown and hot tank. Some of the y-block gurus on here may have figured out a way to modify the oiling passages to help the top oiling issue. The corrosion is kind of ugly! do you have cooling issues?
Where are you in Houston? I'm in Cypress.
Larry
Quote from: Lgcustom on 2012-01-31 10:56
The sludge doesn't look too bad. No big clumps! The reason for the rocker oiling system add-on is because the internal oil passages in the block are plugged. The only way to fix that is a complete teardown and hot tank. Some of the y-block gurus on here may have figured out a way to modify the oiling passages to help the top oiling issue. The corrosion is kind of ugly! do you have cooling issues?
Where are you in Houston? I'm in Cypress.
Larry
My gf's best friend and her husband live by you in cypress. I'm over by Humble off 59. The oil pressure is unknown, the engine was fairly quiet when running , with the exception of a rusted hole on the down pipe after the manifold collector.
I had started it up several times, 5-10 mins of letting it run then rest 10. Eventually all the smoke around the engine stopped and I gave a few revs, the black carbon and dust cleared out of the exhaust and it was clean. She didn't smoke and had good throttle response, however the idle was a little high.
I could never get the newly rebuilt carb (my first rebuild on carb) to idle down. it wasn't racing just wasn't a rump rump rump rump idle. More like 1000k hmmmm.