Does anyone have pictures of their 460 swaps showing the tight areas? I'm trying to decide whether to go with a 460 or a 302 and would like to see how tight a big block is in these cars. I have a 57 Ford Fairlane 64B 2 door sedan. Thanks.
302/351/390 are as close to bolt in as you will ever get. We know 74 truck FE exhaust manifolds clear the steering box, 302 Fox Mustang headers clear as do the cast iron manifolds and I believe the 351 is in the same boat as the 302 but not 100% sure, maybe someone else can chime in on that. The 460 exaust manifolds are the issue with it so after market headers will be needed.
This will be a great thread! Say 512 are you in Austin?
This is with Crites swap headers. There tight around the steering box and on the right side frame rail, but they do fit. There is about a 1/2" clearance form the rocker cover to the firewall, I couldn't move the engine back any further because the oil pan sump hits the cross member. This is with the stock rad moved outward about 1 inch. Also notice how close the fan is to the pulleys, you may be able to use one of those cheap flex fans as they are slightly narrower and may give you more room.
@RMK great picture! Question: what transmission are you using, and how did you compensate for the shifter on the column (if your car is auto on the column)
I'm using a c-6. The stock shift rod works, you just have to fiddle with the adjustment and lengthen or shorten the lever on the trans to get the correct sweep so it goes into all gears. I used a Lokar cable setup for my kickdown. The detents on column shifter don't quite line up with the c-6 ones but there close enough for now. the neutral start switch is also something that has to be looked into, mine isn't hooked up yet.
Quote from: Custom300Madman on 2012-01-30 16:04
This will be a great thread! Say 512 are you in Austin?
Nope. St. Louis, MO.
Quote from: rmk57 on 2012-01-30 19:29
I'm using a c-6. The stock shift rod works, you just have to fiddle with the adjustment and lengthen or shorten the lever on the trans to get the correct sweep so it goes into all gears. I used a Lokar cable setup for my kickdown. The detents on column shifter don't quite line up with the c-6 ones but there close enough for now. the neutral start switch is also something that has to be looked into, mine isn't hooked up yet.
Thanks for the pictures rmk57. That doesn't look as tight as I thought it would be. Did you have to modify the trans tunnel to fit the C-6? What about header clearance around the a-arms? How much ground clearance do you have with the Crites headers? That looks kind of roomy compared to my 64. It still has the shock towers so I'm used to busted knuckles. :001:
@512, I went to HS up there in STL, I heard they closed Gateway down. I can't wait until I put the 460 in my car!
They closed Gateway last year but they are reopening this spring. Thank goodness. I only got to race 3 times last year so I am having withdrawal symptoms. They closed KCIR (Kansas City) last fall so we are really getting slim on race tracks around here. They are building a new track- Mid America Raceway Park but it is having a slow time getting started on the construction. Now we are starting on my wife's cruiser so we can have something else to do when we can't race.
I didn't have to massage the trans tunnel at all. I have about 3 1/2" to 4" inches clearance and that is with tall front tire. I had turn one or two a-arm bolts around so the threads face away from the header tube. Width wise there is lots of room, it's length wise where it gets tight. Try and get the early style C8SE water pump, it's a little shorter that the later ones. I ended up trimming more of my core support for a bigger rad and I also wanted to use a clutch fan. The added clearance is a much better for adjusting your timing with the engine running, where as before I would never attempt it.
Quote from: rmk57 on 2012-01-30 20:10
I didn't have to massage the trans tunnel at all. I have about 3 1/2" to 4" inches clearance and that is with tall front tire. I had turn one or two a-arm bolts around so the threads face away from the header tube. Width wise there is lots of room, it's length wise where it gets tight. Try and get the early style C8SE water pump, it's a little shorter that the later ones. I ended up trimming more of my core support for a bigger rad and I also wanted to use a clutch fan. The added clearance is a much better for adjusting your timing with the engine running, where as before I would never attempt it.
Is that a Crites radiator kit? It looks very similar to the one I bought from them for my 64?
No, it's a universal rad from Be cool. There are a couple of other members on here that did this swap without cutting anything and use a stock rad. I guess it can be done. Randy
Quote from: rmk57 on 2012-01-30 20:51
No, it's a universal rad from Be cool. There are a couple of other members on here that did this swap without cutting anything and use a stock rad. I guess it can be done. Randy
Now that is a sleeper! Nice car Randy.
That's a good looking blue ya have there. ;)
Does anyone have pics of the FPA headers on a 460 in a 57?
Quote from: 512Fairlane on 2012-02-06 22:13
Does anyone have pics of the FPA headers on a 460 in a 57?
I have pictures that I wrangled out of FPA but they were not very helpful. The bigger problem was that FPA did not know what engine mounts were used. Crites headers fit best with Crites' mounts (just ask them...they'll tell ya'). I was told that the CJ manifold will clear the steering box. I made my own power rack and pinion and fenderwell headers. Problem solved!!!! AND YES...move the heads as tight as possible to the firewall. I even made a core support. Good luck. Gary
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o531/gasman826/460005.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o531/gasman826/March26-002.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o531/gasman826/IMG00001.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o531/gasman826/557002.jpg)
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=1703.0
Nice looking 57. That hood is beautiful BTW :003:
I like that sneaky mid 60's Thunderbird scoop grafted on...very nice. There is a guy here in town with one grafted onto his 67 Ford F100 shortbed..very cool.
Quote from: JPotter57 on 2012-02-11 18:00
I like that sneaky mid 60's Thunderbird scoop grafted on...very nice. There is a guy here in town with one grafted onto his 67 Ford F100 shortbed..very cool.
Its nice that you noticed. That hood represents many hours with hammer and dolly. I skinned a '65 Thunderbird hood onto a '57 hood frame. A few years ago I asked you about the part number for a roof. If you look close, I also skinned the roof panel. 186 spot welds drilled as well as 186 spot welds drilled on the donor car. Also smoothed the drip rails.
Take care,
Gary
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o531/gasman826/Nov2011004.jpg)
That is very cool, subtle. I didn't even notice the drip rails. That is some slick bodywork, can't wait to see it in paint. What color(s) are you going with?
Nice work Gasman...kinda makes me miss my car when it was still in primer.LOL
Hey Gasman, if you want to get out of the cold up north, I've got one in south AL that you can practice on anytime. Second thought, don't look like you need any practice. By the way, that is a way cool frame jig/lift. I may have to start searching the scrap yards for some proper size I beam, are you listening Potter, with wheels and a set of taillights it would be portable.
Quote from: JPotter57 on 2012-02-12 11:05
That is very cool, subtle. I didn't even notice the drip rails. That is some slick bodywork, can't wait to see it in paint. What color(s) are you going with?
Like Henry said 'any color as long as it is black'. I am using this picture as a model for the interior. Sewing machine at the ready and I've been practicing. Seats, console, and dash have all been mocked up and ready for upholstery.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o531/gasman826/RedInterior64Thunderbird2Large.jpg)