I'm doing a temp. assembly of my front end sheetmetal to see how many fitment issues I'm gonna have. (well, that and I was just anxious to see it somewhat together for the first time in 6 or 7 years!). Anyway...I'm trying to figure the correct "stacking order" where the leading nose of the wheelwell, fender and nose all bolt together. As it is now, I have the wheelwell flange inside the nosepiece, rather than inside the headlight area. I had replaced the leading flange on both wheelwells due to rust, so not positive, but the notches and bends in that flange area only make sense to me if it it goes that way. Obviously, the fender and nose are next to each other, but it looks like the wheelwell could be on either side of that....and I'm guessing it's on the side of the nosepiece. Is this correct? Am I making sense with my description?
Anyone?? Please. I just need someone to pop their hood and look at the fenderwells forward of where the core support bolts on to see if that leading 3" or so of the fenderwell changes to the engine side of the fender. You'll see the top end of the fenderwell inside the ends of the nosepiece if it does.
Gotsta find an assembly manual that covers the front clip!
Rich
Rich I am in WI right now so I can't look at my stuff, be on the road tomorrow to a friends house, look at his then. As I recall the fender and the inner fender come off in one assembly....after the gravel pan and the bumper support and the grill are out. The fender and the nose piece need to be unbolted too.....
Rich, if I'm understanding your request here's how my front clip is, fender goes over the inner fender all the way front to back, everything else bolts in between the fenders. hope that makes sense.
Zap- :unitedstates: :006:
Zap..it makes sense, thanks. It's just not how I figured it would go....actually I think it could go either way, I'm probably overworrying as usual.
Bill..if you could look see how his is put together it would be great to have a second opinion.
Drive careful ...roads slick up there?
Rich
If it could go either way then am sure they left the many assembly plants both ways. And probably both ways at any one plant.
Zap- :unitedstates:
I just looked at mine, just like what Zapato said.
I snapped a pic from the underside. Also a pic with the fr fender and hood in place (actually just sitting there)
Thanks Mark
I'm quite pleased with the view from the drivers seat. I think I got the seat height just right, which was kinda hard to do without having anything infront of the windshield to reference.
I'm also planning on installing the turn signal indicators in the hood scoop. I probably should have started another post on that, but I'm thinking of using the "wireless" electrical contacts like I used on the door jambs for the power windows. That would prevent having to run the turn signal wiring all the way to the nose, and then figure a way to route them up to and into the hood.Any thoughts on that idea?
Rich, I just emailed you 2 pictures, hope it helps
I'll check them out. Thanks for doing that....much appreciated.
Rich
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2012-12-29 16:25
Zap..it makes sense, thanks. It's just not how I figured it would go....actually I think it could go either way, I'm probably overworrying as usual.
Bill..if you could look see how his is put together it would be great to have a second opinion.
Drive careful ...roads slick up there?
Rich
Rich you got it right, my friends 57 is like the picture you posted, raining here so have to look at the retract after it stops, know it has never been apart.
Major roads weren't bad, slushy, side roads were hard pack and very drivable. Truck was covered with salt (red truck with white sides and tail gate...) by the time we got to TN. Rainined all the way down to Birmingham today so I'm hoping the salt was all washed off.
You mean I may have finally gotten something right? cool. Thanks Bill
Rich it looks like you're getting a lot of things right! The ride is looking good!
Thanks Bill. What do you think of the idea of using the "wireless" door contacts for the turn indicator wiring to the hood scoop?
I think it would be easier to run the wires inside the internal structure and have them exit in the hinge area. Finding a good place for the contacts and keeping them dry and not let any water into the passenge compartment might a be problem.
You're right as usual..wasn't thinking about my car actually getting wet!!??. BTW, When I ordered my turn indicator lights from RF, they had the option of dim for interior use, or bright for exterior use. I ordered the brighter....LOL...hmmm now if I could only find a digital horizontal tachometer that would fit inside the scoop, "Kit" style. (just kiddin')
Check with Dakota Digital, they might just have what you are looking for or can provide....the readout is just that, the "box" to make the readout do it's thing is remotely mounted.
Im looking for the turn signal socket drivers side front for my 58. Anybody know where to look for them?
I got my '57's at www.classicautoparts.com If they don't have them, check Dennis Carpenter
Thanks Rich.
Forgot to mention...unless you need them absolutly authentic for an as-original restoration, don't overlook your neighborhood parts stores. When I redid the sockets for the '63 taillights in my '57 because I wanted sockets with grounding lugs, I found them locally. autozone, o'reilly's ??
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-01-04 15:57... the '63 taillights in my '57 ...
Hmm. Any pix of this? Wondering what you changed. Lenses? Buckets? Trim too? Are they tunneled in like the stock 63s?
The 63 lenses always appeared to me to be a larger diameter than the 57s. No?
(http://www.shutterpoint.com/photos/M/373028-Ford-1963-Galaxie_thum.jpg)
LOL...Do I have pics?? Does a bear **** in the woods?
The '63 lenses are actually 1/2" smaller than the '57 lenses. I used the '63 buckets, and cut them down to fit inside the '57 housing. The first pic shows the '63 bucket..what was left of it anyway. It also shows what I cut off a ss dog dish.I made stainless steel rings from dog dishes (yes, real dog dishes). The 4 screws that hold the '63 lenses to the '63 buckets were replaced with ss screws long enough to go thru the '57 redrilled housing and attaches with nuts and washers thru the backside. The sockets shown in the pics were the original ones that I purchases and later replaced with sockets that had grounding lugs. The lenses, btw, are '63 Galaxie 500XL lenses..they are different with different models.
smore pics. One note of caution...you have to be careful with drilling for the 4 mounting screws. Aside form the fact they are not evenly spaced (go figure??), they are what is going to time the fins when it is installed into the '57 housing, so where you drill that pattern in the '57 housing is important.
Thanks, Rich. Yeah, the kitchen is a good place to look for stainless stuff to modify to use on the car or bikes, done it many times. Better yet, thrift stores.
Needed a little thin stainless to make something for one of my motorcycles. Expensive at the sheet metal shop, dirt cheep at the thrift store. Found some of those stainless dog dishes there once, like new. Great little deep bowls. I eat cereal or whatever out of them. :001:
"Why is your dog looking at me like that?" ... "That's his dish"
Needed some center caps for these kind of rare old American Dragmaster wheels I was rehabbing. Only thing around here was big & ugly, & didn't fit anyway. I had one small stainless "mixing bowl" or "mixing cup" that I'd bought years ago to see if it would fit a different set of wheels. Would have been a prefect fit for these wheels but no longer available.
Found a set of six for about six bucks at Bed Bath & Be .... car parts.
With a large O-ring from a local bearing supply place they are a tight press fit into the wheel, not too big or obtrusive , look real good.
The rear wheels get small plastic spot mirrors. Second time I have done that.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/VAN/van-1-2-101.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/VAN/P1000114.jpg)
gotta love it! that stuff looks real good, Tom. I've always got my eye open at places like Wallyworld, Target, Bed, Bath and Beyond, Lowe's. There's tons of bowls, cups,cooking stuff, flanges, etc. all made from stainless and cheap. I did the cup holders in my back arm rests from chrome bathroom cotton ball cups, and the top flanges for them were cut off two ss kitchen sink drains.
I used chrome 1 1/4" floor pipe flanges from the plumbing section at Lowe's for flanges for the side cowl drains. I know that cheap chrome will rust quickly, so I've been on the lookout for ss replacements..or a high quality chrome over brass.
Those tailight rings I did cost me 8 bucks for the pair. I had figured I was going to have to have them machined, probably costing at least a couple hundred.
Damn, Rich, you're gonna have everything from the kitchen in that car except the proverbial kitchen sink.
Oh, wait! ;D